Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 24, Number 7, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 12 August 1893 — Page 6

i1-:

FOR WOMAN'S .WEAR.

VVTILL THE VOLUMINOUS SLEEVE GO WITH THE OTHER ODDITIES?

Simplicity CoiijJtiu to the Front Coat Sleeve* to Hurt Another B«lp»—Black suid White t«« !'.«* Store Worn Than Ever 'tfjLater Oau

-sift It is too early for really new developments, says the New York Son, but with numerous and glaring defects eliminated it is reasonable to hope that something more desirable' and arils lie may evolve from the chaotic conditions of the past few months. A whispered rumor says that the voluminous sleeve will soon entirely disappear, and coat sleeves are already reduced in style. Extreme fullness is now used only in grenadine, crepon and other soft materials. The Garibaldi style of sleeve, gathered into a bunch at the wrist, is sure to follow in the wake of the lego' mutton shape a^d is perhaps the latest style.

Simplicity is becoming more and more the stamp of fashion, and if rumor is correct some perfectly plain dresses have made their appearance in Paris, dresses without any semblance of trimming on either the waist or the skirt

AFTERNOON GOWNS,

One of the Parisian fancies is for glace »gilk gowns trimmed with pinked out [t 'flounces. Basques are slowly gaining -v favor, but are as yet reserved for cloth clresses and traveling costumes. A fancy style is a double basque of silk or velvet Vyf cut to fit closely at the waist and forming a series of fluted plaits at the edge.

The most conspicuous feature of the .present fashions is the use of lace, which is introduced in every imaginable man ner in every sort of a gown. Whether the dress is black, white or colored, silk tor gauze, there is a plentiful supply of this popular trimming. Chiffon comes next

popularity and is used in

^variety of ways. When made over changeable silk, it is an ideal gown, The inevitable navy blue serge con Itinues to be an important dress in every ardrobe.

A lace trimmed costume is made of soft wool goods diagonally striped with blue and red. The skirt is ornamented with wide red ribbon run in and out and finished off in a looped knot on the right tide. The same ribbon is used for the double belt confining the full bodice. Each belt is fastened with a buckle. The yoke and flgaro vest with capelets !"Jare all of white guipure. Alight straw

Jhat trimmed with red ribbon and black eta sets off the costume.

Sr^

I.ACK TRIMVXD 006TOXX,

Another stylish dress of fawn colored crepon has a black satin bodice and sleeves. Four capes of crepon, edged with lace insertion, fall over the sleeve, while one wide cape hangs around the seek and is arranged with handsome loops and ends of ribbon.

Little capes, barely reaching beyond the shonklers, are made of coarse net and covered with frills bordered with narrow white lace. Full ruches of black silk muslin, or net edged on both sides with the lace and tied with a ribbon in front, are worn without a cape.

I I'l. Tumi. II.

Bouillon.

Melt a tablespoonful of butter in a granite saucepan, add one-half of an onion sliced. Cook until the onion is thoroughly browned, then add pounds Qf finely chopped lean beef—that from the round being best—and If pint* of oold, soft water. Cover the saucepan and stand it on the back of the stove where the wstsr will slowly best. Let it come to boiling point, then simmer gently two hours. Strain, return to the kettle and bring to a boil. Beat the white of an egg with one-half of a cup of cold water until thoroughly mixed. Crush the shell and add it to the egg add this to the boiling bouillon. Boil for four minutes, stand on the back of the stove for one minute to settle and strain through cheesecloth. Be sure and wring out the cheesecloth in cold water before straining. If the bouillon be too light in color, add caramel, but it must be perfectly dear. 'VUttpfcenrtet.

Three quarts of raspberry juke, with ft quart of water. Make this mixta** nwry sweet, ftsr everything lc«w some of its swectaws in the process of tossing. Then add the whites of eggs, beaten light, and freecs,

OUTDOOR CRESSES.

Clean1y, Not Cumbersome. Vet Alway* Nat.7. ty and Fresh Looking.

Begin the day with a bath and a tVrn-.'i bag of the hair. Let your gauz6 vest a.vi your stockings be fresh at least onoi day. If you can afford silk, you will Iii that the coolest material for both lltM

STREET COSTUMES.

articles. If not, lisle thread is fairly cool. Spun silk vests and stockings, however, are so reasonable that it might be well to forego a few four-incbands and chamois gloves to purchase them..

Over the silk vest fasten your corsets or your reform waist. A pair of muslin drawers, a muslin corset cover,, sleeveless and low necked, and a very light silk skirt will be quite enough in the line of underwear. The silk petticoat, by the way, is cooler than starched muslin, and is quite as economical when the laundry bills are considered.

However much you may long foi lawns and organdies, do not wear them down town. The dust of the roads will sprinkle them with dirt an unexpected shower -Grill send you home the most bedraggled spectacle the crowds will crush your pretty gown out of all its crispness and freshness. Cling to dark clothes that can be brushed and shaken. Get the lightest possible weight of cloth and have it made into tfhe lightest possible skirt and jacket. Yofir fondness for gay colors may expend itself upon your shirt waists of linen, chambray and gingham.

A simple hat, not necessarily a sailor, a parasol, low shoes and loose gloves will complete aB cool an outfit as woman can hope to assume.

Fruit For Breakfast.

Fruit is the best dish and the prettiest and most welcome ornament your breakfast table can have. An orange at each place with a small doily and a dainty knife to peel it with puts every one in a good humor, while a dish of oranges or grapes in the center of the table imparts a festive and luxurious air to the meal. Children should have fruit to eat in the morning, brown bread, oatmeal or cracked wheat and milk' to drink. Preserves ot fresh fruit at lunch is excellent also, and while fruit is said to be "golden at mom, silver at noon," it is also said to be "lead at night," but I should risk oranges, figs and grapes at night where I would hesitate at eating plum pudding or mince pie, which are too often lead at any time.

Good For All Time*.

For sandwiches the bread should be 24 hours old. The crust should be shaved from the sides and the ends of the loaf, leaving it even. The bread should be buttered, then cut about the thioknessof the ordinary square cracker.

For chicken sandwiches, cold chicken should be chopped finely, mixed with a little cold gravy and seasoned.

For delicious cheese sandwiches, grate a quarter of a pound of cheese and mix it with a half teaspoonfnl of salt, pepper and mustard. Melt a little butter, add a tablespoonful of vinegar, mix and spread the bread thin, Sardines may be rubbed to a paste instead of cheese.

Egg sandwiches are made by chopping the whites of hard boiled eggs, mimhing the yolks and mixing to a smooth paste with melted butter, pepper and salt.

Salmon sandwiches are good. Brain the oil

#of

canned salmon, remove all

bits of skin and bone, mash smooth, spread a slice of bread and squeeze a little lemon juice on it.

Chopped ham sandwiches should have the ham shopped as fine as grated cheese mixed with melted butter or beaten egg to make a paste, seasoned with mustard, pepper Mid a bit of pickle. The ordinary bread and butter sandwich can be made delidons by putting lettuce between the dices, or nasturtium or dandelion leaves.

ChockeA and Striped.

The gown in this sketch is composed of grenadine, the stripes of which go round. The bell ekirt has a fancy pocket on one faced with silk. The bodice

a ocamprxTiox.

is arranged with aoaavc over a folded front of cbcck silk, and the back is ait ttoee-^&Mfer ksigth. forming a kind of over the coat. Two capes fall with narrow frills at jjbe edge of tbem.

THE WRAPPER.

It la Not **a Thins* of Beauty," Only Comfortable.

If the average mau had his way, there is little dopbt that the wearing of wrappers by hie wife in his august presence would be a legal cause of divorce. He cherishes toward those harmless, necessary garments a sort of personal spite. If he comes home a little early in the afternoon and finds the sharer of his sorrows still clad in her morning wrapper, he grows almost vituperative. He antra hia wife why on earth she wears those slovenly things, ~r

There is nothing so cool and altogether comfortable as a wrapper. It is loose, and the air circulates freely inside it. In it she does not object to lending a hand in the kitchen, beating eggs, etc. No wonder she is as devoted to the wrapper as her lord and master is averse to it.

Still she owes something to him and to her household generally. She can win them all to her view of the case provided only that she takes the proper precautions. Let her have a fresh, clean one for every day. Let it have a neat collar, and let the full sleeves be gathered into a neat shirt cuff. A ruffle abaot the bottom and a frill about the yoke will not add much to the cost ?r to the labor of "doing up," but they will prove a powerful aid to conjugal felicity.

Percales, with fine stripes in black, red, blue and brown, or with little dots and sprigs adorning their white ground* can be bought for 10 and 12 cents a yard. They do not fade and last two or three years. For $6 any woman can provide herself with six dainty wrappers with which to reconcile her husband to that negligee style of attire. She can be cool, comfortable and comely in them if only she dons afresh one each morning and never by any chance forgets her belt.

Folding Worlcatand.

This stand, to fold up like a camp stool and intended for a veranda or garden pavilion, is made of four gilded cane sticks 2 feet 8* inches long, four 1 foot 2} inches long going across, and a bag of gray congress canvas, for which a piece 27i inches square, embroidered with colored cotton and lined with sateen the same color, is required. This bag,.is sewn out all round, leaving a heading

WITH BAG FOR NEEDLEWORK.

9 inches high, and apiece of elastic run into the hem, so that the width is reduced to 44 inches. It is then laid on two sides in even box plaits and mounted on the sticks. Large bows of red satin ribbon appear to fasten the stuff to the frame at the corners and to hold the same together at the places where crossed. Between the lower horizontal sticks is stretched a piece of sarscenet ribbon to prevent the stand from slipping too far asunder.

OnrBedrooms.

In houses where health is first considered the chambers are severely furnished—carpets, woolen hangings and all tapestry covered chairs and couches are dispensed with. The floors, if of hard wood, are polished, soft wood is painted, and some light rug is placed under foot. Muslin curtains drape the windows, and any upholstery is done in chintz or left in the muslin and protected with linen covers, which are easily laundered. Stationary basins are not put in the new houses. Open fireplaces are, and as a result the inmates rest well, provided there is no pricking conscience.

A Dainty Dinner Table.*

Nothing could have been prettier or more dainty than the table which a Parisian hostess arranged with her own hands for an informal little dinner which she gave. When her friends entered the dining room, she asked laughingly whether die would not be able to make a living as a florist, for indeed none else than a person endowed with the most Yefined of tastes could have devised anything quite as lovely as was to be seen there on that night.

No heavy gold or silver surtout, no top heavy epergne loaded with fruit, obstructed the view, but on the fine cloth, edged with Venetian point, were a succession of tiny baskets of spun crystal, in which delicate snowdrops nodded their little green cricked necks. A narrow white moire ribbon was tied in windmill bows to the handle of each basket, and meandered ail over the table, caught up now and again with a cluster of pale yellow and pink flowers. To make the illusion more complete, a flight of whiteand yellow butterflies, fastened to invisible wires, hovered ova* the flowers, and so true to nature were these velvety insects, trembling and glittering above the table, that the first impression was that they were alive.

Uam Budkurehteft.

The favorite handkerchiefs at present ate of Indian linen almost as sheer as mist. Tbey have hemstitched edges about half an inch wide, with the initiator monogram embroidered in cote corner. The lettering Is very delicate, and fie design is worked in outline stitch^

A Faafalowmbte Fabrie.

Sail cloth is not, as the uninitiated might suppose, a fabric like to that which speeds the boat upon its way. It !i a woolen fabric, soft, pliable, loosely woven and very light in weight.

SHE IS ONLY A WOMAN

SOME OF THE "MUSTS" AND A FEW OF THE "MUSTN'TS" ONE MEETS.

Custom Forever Seems to Bar Her From Tilings She Would So Much Like to Do. Tyranny Begins Very Early In life and

Never Once Relaxes.

It is delightful to be a woman. Perhaps you men don't think so, or perhaps you do, but no matter how much you do, yon know nothing about it from the simple fact that you have never tried it.

Whoever did know what toothache was until he had through an entire winter night sustained a sold in opposition to the neighbor's dog, on the occasion of a throbbing molar in his own mouth—not his wife's?

Now, I never knew just how dreadful beinga woman was till last week, though I have been serving in that capacity for more years than I shall tell you.

I began to feel that there were a few trifling inconveniences attached to the office at the age of 9 years, when my brother and cousins took to "their native element," the millpond, and I was informed, to my great surprise and indignation, that it was "not the thing for girls.*'

I'have been hearing that same phrase every day since applied to something new and something nice,'of course.

If it was not nice, it would" be "just the thing" for a woman. You men may do everything except steal, and even the law against your doing that has its modifications, for provided you do it on a sufficiently extensive scale and are successful you may even steal

Now, shoplifting is about the only branch of this profession open to us women, and even that, you know, has its disadvantages.

From the time a girl is old enough to understand that she will one day be a woman she Is Informed of things by the score that she must do and by the hundred that she mustn't.

In the first place, a woman is made. to understand that she must forbear all work or be eternally disgraced.

Work does not mean getting up at day light, cooking breakfast, washing dishes, making beds, sweeping, dusting, scrubbing, sewing, cooking dinner, washing dishes again, darning stockings, nursing sick folks and babies, cooking supper, washing dishes again-and yet again.

Oh,,no a woman may do all these things from New Year's day to the Slst of December, Sundays and legal holidays included, and still be respectable in the eyes of all sensible people.

But let her do anything by which to earn the 'wherewithuljior buying herself a decent gown arid gloves, and all of you, the very best of you, feel that she has gone just a little beyond the bounds assigned her.

Don't protest against this, for in your secret souls you know it is true. Suppose for instance a woman to be a teacher, and the more successful she is the worse for her iu your opinion. You, know that you are shy of her.

If by her pen she supports herself, all the nice men avoid her, even those who are far beyond her in the literary world—not from any jealousy. It is just because they don't care to meet that kind of a woman."

She may be doing this sorely against her will, with many straggles of many sorts, in order to take some of the burden from her father's tired sholders, or to help her mother and sisters, and still you have a feeling against it, the very manliest one among you, and perhaps the manlier you are the more helpless you like a woman to be.

There is one exception to this rule, however. A woman may work to make a living when she has a husband who approves her doing so by disapproving most strongly of any manner of labor for himself.

Even then some of you feel a kind of pity for him, and think he might have been a different man, poor fellow, if he had had a different wife.

A woman mustn't vote (I don't know one who wants to), she mustn't whistle, she mustn't be independent, she mustn't smoke, if she will work, she mustn't expect big wages, she mustn't own a temper, and mustn't go across the street after dark, although attended by seven other women, unless there is some poor little man along to lend respectability to the part)

These are a few of the things she must not do. Then the musts—oh, the musts 1

She must know how to cook, for the cook may and does leave without warn* ing: she must have tact enough to "get aloug" with everybody, from her mother-in-law toiler washerwoman she must sing or play whenever asked, regardless of her mood she must always smile, no matter what the state of her head or heart or her temper she must have a faculty for finding everything that's lost, from a bootjack to a collar button she must always be faultlessly dressed in very inexpensive material she must be pretty she must always have her bangs curled, if her hair happen to be straight, and if die be blessed with curly locks she must keep them in some sort of order she must know a little of everything and not much of anything, in order that she may at once be helpful to. the male members of the household and patronized by the same individuals she must—but the list is already too long and the biggest must isyettecom&

She must get married or tear through life the profound pity and I had almost said contempt of (dl men, especially all women and most especially the grass widows and those women who have drunken husbands and six or seven ragged, neglected children.

All this is bad—worse than you can im agine—but, as 1 told you, I never reached the climax till last week.

I was going, with a certain man of the family (I won't tell you how he was related to me), to the country. 1 had been ready and waiting to start a full half hour, but his cravat wasn't tied or something, and as we hurried into the station the beil of our train began to sound.

T&nt wasn't the onlv bell there, however. There was a bell skirt, which "dipped," of coarse, iand I was arrayed fn it. So, while 1 was getting myself into shape for run ning, the train pulled put. Then I heard the words? "If yon had been a man, we would have caught that train."

I realized what ft was to be a woman then.—Louisville Cour^CT-JournaL

Until We know thoroughly the place we live and know, too, the neighfar miles arotuid by rotd and field, axe opportunities for travel enough for mortof us without leaving home.,

You don't know how much better you will feel if yo'a take Hood'sSarsaparilla. It wili drive off that tired feeling and make you strong.

foreign Comment on tbe Fair.

My first impressions of the exhibition are still maintained. The place is altogether too big and will assuredly be—financially—a gigantic failure. The charge to exhibitors and their assistants of $3 (12s. fld.) apiece for their entrance tickets is very unpopular. There are something like

25,

000 of these, so that about £15,000 is made by the transaction. True it is that the promise is thrown out that two-thirds of the money"trill be returned at the close of the exhibition if the passes are handed in again, but this assurance is generally taken with an unusually large grain of salt as this is not a country for returning anything* in the shape of that "almighty dollar" it loves so well. 'f

The most frightful thing in the entire exhibition—perhaps in the whole world—is the gigantic gilded Btatue of Liberty. It stands at one end of a lagoon and faces an equally wretched figure mounted in what is known here as the electrical car. For grotesque renderings of classical subjects, these two figures, situated as they are in the most prominent part ot the grounds— to use an Americanism—take the cake.— London Building News.

A Terribly Mixed Up Parson.

There was once an absentminded preacher in Maine of whom a gossiping lady tells. One Sunday he said excitedly at the close of a solemn discourse, "The choir will now pronounce the benediction and I will sing the Doxology." The choir failed to respond beyond a faint soprano giggle, and the minister hastily exclaimed: "No, nol I should Have said, I will now sing the benediction and the choir will please prosounce the Doxology." Before he could hazard another attempt the quartet came to the rescue with. "Old Hundred," and the parson sat down to recover his wits behind the friendly shelter of the old fashioned pulpit.—Lewiston Journal.

Blotches, pimples, liver patches, G. M. D. right quick dispatches, Drives away inetplont tumors, ire Clears the blood from poisonous humors

Ailing one, whoe'reyou be,

Try the worth of G. M. D.— whiohisthe great Golden Medical Discovery of Dr. Pierce—a wonderful tonic and blood-purifier. The "Discovery" is a standard remedy for consumption, bronchitis, colds and lung troubles guaranteed to benefit or cure, if taken in time, or money refunded.

Coats For Little Gfrls.

The children were not forgotten when tho consideration of wraps and coats was in order. Small girls are blossoming out in brilliant colored, cofets which cost almost as much as thoBe worn by their older sisters.

Cashmere is the favorite material, although, as shown in the second cut, brocaded silks are still selected by fond mothers. The Kate Greenaway Style is

LITTLE MAIDENS.

again in vogue, as its real grace and beauty recommend. It should never 'go out" so long as there are little girls to set it off and have it set them off in turn.

The revival of Victorian era clothes for their elders has influenced the dress of little children with much better results than might be expected. Puffed sleeves are in high favor for the tiny gowns, and baby waists are the rule. The effect very nearly reconciles one to the appearance of their much puffed and skirted mothers.

I have been troubled with chronic ca tarrh for years. Ely's Cream Balm is the only remedy among the maov that I have used that affords me relief.—E. W. Wiilard, Druggist, Joliett, 111.

son has been afflicted with nasal catarrh since quite young. I was induced to try Ely's Cream Balm, and be fore he bad used one bottle that disagreeable catarrhal smell had all left him. He appears as well as anyone. It is the best catarrh remedy in the maraet.—J. C. Olmstead, Areola, III. 0*2.

Lane's Family Medicine Moves the Bowels

Each day. Most people need to use it.

PHENYO-CAFFEIN.

If yon Have Headache or Neuralgia, Take Phenyo-Caffein Pills.

They are effectual in relieving Pain, and in curing Headache or Neuralgia. Tbey are not a cathartic and contain nothing that stupefies. They tone up tbe nerves and tend to prevent returns of Headache and Neuralgia. They are guaranteed to do all that is claimed for them

TESTIMONIALS.

I have never seen anything act so promptly as Pbenyo«Cafleln in sick and nervous Headache. Many cases have been cared and not any failures reported. H. I. Farrer, Belle Voir. N. C.

For years I have been a terrible sufferer from headache some six months ago my physician prescribed PbenyoCaflein, and since then, by their nse, I have not had a severe headache, being

Jackson dear

The dying "What t* the matter with my cfcfldrenr Have I alarmed yoat Oh. do

of Andrew

is the matter with:

notary. Be good children, sod we will all

Mnt Astor is said to neve? pay leas than IS

MEDICIUE

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GILH ORE'S AROMATIC WIHE

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Mothers, uso it for your daughters. It ia thecest regulator and corrector tor alf ailments peculiar to woman. It enriches the blood and sires tasttns strength. It is guaranteed to cure Diarrhcea, Dy»' |nterg and all Summer Complaints, and keep the

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You bit tbe nail on the bead wbenyou pot Pbenyo-Csffein on the market. They are the beet thing out for headache, B. P. Jones, If. D.. Orleans, Mass.

One year ago I was on# of tbe greatest snfierers from sick and nervous headache I ever knew. I no more have trouble with sick headache and seldom have even a slight besdmcbe. I attribute the great change to your Pbenyo Caffein, a remedy I could not do without If it east 15 a box. I have tried a dozen or mors medicines (warranted to cure) without tbeir even helping me. 1 can not praise your valuable preparation enough. Frank 8. tfehmlti, Seymour, Indiana. .:

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