Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 23, Number 47, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 20 May 1893 — Page 7

MODISH EXACTIONS.

SEAMLESS BODICES, FLARING SKIRT8 AND DISTENDED SLEEVES.

Wbllc Fashion's Present Demands Run to Extravagance In Material, the Woman of Slender Means Can Take Consolation In

Summer Gowns.

Among the late expressions of the modo which may appeal to the woman whose head is better stocked than her purse are dainty models for the simple summer gowns that may be made now with lees weariness of the flesh than when the flights of the mercury render the wearing of them more grateful than the making. The New York Sun says: One little gown of palo pink zephyr, with a raised thread of white or of pale blue, has OCT of the new 2-story skirts, the lower part cut with a great flare and set on to the upper half with two little ruffles. Tho edges of the lower frill are finished with another ruffle, shirred on with a little heading. The waist is shirred, too, about the neck and at the waist, where a bolt of shaded pink satin ribbon is folded twice around. Then

PI'I

8IMW..E SUMMER GOWNS.

shoulder rnflles of fino open embroidery outline tho yoko, arid large puffs of pink haven doublo frill of the same on the lower edge. These gowns tire planned with epccinl reference to successful laundering, a condition not always considered in tho calculations of tho designer.

Another exceedingly pretty wash dress is a violet sprigged lawn or organdie, which has broad lace insertions run on over green ribbons matching tho tint of tho violet 1 wives. Tho waist is formed entirely of tho rows of insertion and strips of the sheer muslin sewed together and fulled on tho shoulder and at th° belt. The sleeves havo two full flounces at tho top. with a row of insertion in each one, and tho pretty, cool effect is enhanced by having the lining cut low in tho neek, whether it is of white lawn or of shot greon and violet taffeta.

Daintiest and lightest of all summer fabrics are the dotted muslins, which are simply mado, with flounces of point d'esprit. One pretty model has a plaited yoko with an insertion of the point lace, rnflles around tho sleeves and a sash of shaded china ribbon showing changeable effects of green and heliotrope.

And prettiest of all aro tho tea gowns of wash silks or lawns in light colors, opening down the front in tho old fashioned way, with a lace niching all the way down tho front and round tho lower edge. Stripes of green and blue and rose on a white ground call for a ruche of green and blue ribbon round tho ctlge, or little ruffles of tho blue havo a border of green with tho fino point d'esprit falling over and softening both. Tho little gown reproduced has a yoko of fine sheer muslin over a lining of bluo and a petticoat of tho sal no flno material, showing through crossbands of lace insertion the color of the lining. But these little gowns aro al£o made in challis orcrepon. and aro worn over tho pretty silk petticoats that are now the luxurious essentials of every woman's wardrobe. Soft printed cashmeres or plain light wools are made up with a yoko of strips of ribbon in three or moro colors sowed together with care in the arrangement of colors, and also are made up with plain or figured china silk or muslin de soie shoulder trills and drapings. No summer wardrobe can bo accounted quite complete without one or moro of the cool and pretty china silks that aro so deservedly popular.

TRA GOWN AXD llOCSE DRESS.

A pretty example of a serviceable gown of this kind, shot bluo and gold, changeable. with a tiny palm leaf of soft color, has two tiny nifties at the foot, edged each wiUi black lace, and another ruftJe at the jointure of the doable skirt edged In the same way. Hie waist has a deep rovers of satin, shot with the colors of the gown, and inside this are surplice folds of the lace, which is frilled at the aleeve as well

ft«h Xet* For Dwinillam,

Anew notion in dvorntims is the use of fUh nets. At where the hoitw was decorated in ink. flush it*** with long stems were wov*n .,-3 and of tl-o tneshCv* of the nn. hi was after** .vrd drojvd. The tvttt t? is parjsiw is in colors sa»1 aim giMeu. A curtain this j- ri I* tvvtn-si doorway*. jj.terwoTen wifh llwrr* and grwtv ry. Lit very effective

SUMMER CURTAINS.

HOW TO DRAPE AND ARRANGE THEM TO THE BEST ADVANTAGE.

Boy Simple, Light Materials With Dainty Designs—Hang Them la^raeefal Folds So the Ught and Air Will Not B« Excluded.

The question of draping the doors and the windows of the winter home is one that can be settled with little thought. But, says the New York World, the arrangement for spring and warm weather requires both consideration and great care. In winter all sorts of stuffs are welcome, and it is only necessary to select warm tones and sufficiently heavy material to shut out all possible draft. In the warmer season problems less easy to solve present themselves on every side.

The hues of the windows and the doors in most of our houses are uncompromisingly ugly and severe, so that if left totally un draped they givo a cheerless aspect to the room. Yet curtains are apt to be stuffy, and portieres are apt to shut out the air, and the unfortunate housewife stands midway between her desire for decoration and the necessity she feels for providing all possible ventilation. This article and these pictures are intended to solve a few at least of her problems. Let her buy the light, almost dia-

DOUBLE WINDOW DRAPERY.

phanous material intended for summer

draperies, and let her see to it that the design is dainty. Tho very charming arrangement for doublo window drapery shown in the cut is designed for a bedroom or boudoir, but it might, if tho material were selected aright, bo used with equally good effect in tho simple "sitting room" of a country home. As shown in the drawing, tho window is draped with inexpensive cotton crape, old bluo in tone, with a simple conventional figuro in white. Whilo it is charming in color and excellent in its lines, it costs an absurdly small sum. Tho crape, which is a yard wide, can bo purchased for. 15 cents a yard, and the edge of a single white ball for a trifle more. In order to got absolutely free use of tho window both for light and air tho curtains are tang from a small rod beneath tho drapery that adds BO largely to their offect. They nre looped in preference to being allowed to hang straight, as that method regulates without sacrificing the amount of air desired. The drapery over tho pole, of course, is stationary and does not move as the curtain does, so that oven when the greatest oxposuro is obtained there are graceful folds and lines in placo of the hard, ugly woodwork that is ordinarily seen. Cretonne, madras, japanose crapo and almost any of the excellent lightweight materials now in vogue might well bo used.

Tho other arrangement given is intended for tho doorway of tho summer homo, when heavy hangings are not longer needed and when portieres givo that peculiar stiffness which all wiso housewives struggle to avoid. But the same or similar effects might bo used at any wide window with entirely satisfactory results, The materials are simple and de-

PCQOESTtON POR PORTIERES.

pend upon their color and the excellent combination of lines and folds rather than upon any richness of stuff for their effect They are what all summer draperies should be—cool both in texture and color, and of such material as can be easily cleaned.

Bcaorlnt Wrinkle*.

Wrinkled foreheads in children betoken consumption, rickets or idiocy. Vertical wrinkles of the brow come early to men who do much brain work. Arched And crossing wrinkles about the lower middle of the forehead betoken physical or mental suffering. Fine, dose meshed wrinkles which cover the face—signs of ago and decrepitude—are caused by loss of contractile nervous force and are prevented by hot bathing, friction and electricity. ...,

The

Tvmtcpoam.

The tmspoe-a should bo always in tbo saucer when not used for stirring- the tea and coffee, tt is considered aa of iUbn*xting to teams tt in the capwmte drinking from it.

TERRE HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING MAIL. MAY 20,1893:

A STATESWOMAN.

ADAM

THE GREAT POWER OF MME. 'IN THE FRENCH REPUBLIC.

In Literature She Is a Journalist, Mag^axLnlst and Author Generally—Her Popularity May Ik Seen at Her Sumptuous

Entertainments.

One does cot run the risk of being called a sycophant to give the full measure of admiration and appreciation to a woman such as Mme. Adam, who t#ads first and foremost as a learned literary woman and as a femme du monde. Since the downfall of the empire Mme. Adam has held the rank of first lady of the' land.. She is

perhaps

the only woman in the world whom men look up to and consult in politics. Without ever having bothered her head about the competency and the right for her to have a seat in the chamber of deputies or to discuss the possibility of becoming a candidate for the presidency, she has gained a prestige whose influence is felt in all European countries as well as in her own.

In the domain of politics she has made-i specialty of foreign affairs, "and no one ii the republic knows so well how the coun try stands with its relations toward tbc European powers as does Mme. Adam. It is said that the sympathy which exists between Russia and France is of her making, and if those at the head of the government reap the reward she is magnanimous enough to let them have it, while still using her influence in furthering the sympathy and working for the much desired alliance.

No one contests Mme. Adam's farr'.' in the literary world. She has the pen not only of a ready writer, but that of a profound one, who is versed in the "classics of all foreign tongues as well as her own. She is a journalist, a magazinist, an author of a few books that will live and the founder of The Nonvelle Revue, which is fast overstepping its grandmother, The Itevue des Deux Mondes.

You do not look so much for kindness of heart in a man of brains as you do inn woman. IloVrever literary a woman be, she must bare tender heartbeats, extend helpful hand to those who have literary ability, or succor tho unfortunate who have tried and failed. Mme. Adam has done I both, but phe has always taken a special in terest in those whom sh» thought competent to succeed. There i-t perhaps score of young writers who owe their literary renown to this benevolent woman. All have not attained a worldwide name like Pierre

Loti, but all are known to the reading pub lie of their own country. I The academy is not yet sufficiently modernized to ndmit women into its exclusive

40) not uVcn t0 fiu the

pi^e

Gf

the zero, but

there is no doubt that Mme. Adam has a better right to fill one of those coveted fauteuils than even some of the members who are known only by tho faint light that unread books have thrown upon them. However, in default of having herself ob tained a seat, she has been the means of obtaining a few for her literary family, notably that of Pierre Loti.

There is a triple individuality in Mine. Adam, for sho is also a most perfect femme du monde, and her receptions and garden parties in her country mansion have obtained as much fame in society as she possesses in the world that thinks. Besides, if sho has qualities which her friends prize above tho others, they are her kindliness and simplicity. In fact, all through life 1 have found that worth and simplicity are as surely wedded as ostentation and igno ranee.

Mme. Adam is the simplest woman in the world when she is entertaining. Yes, it is she, with that bright smile, that cordial manner, playing the usher, pointing out the seats for tho women, assigning the places to the men and handing out the programmes. Where has she left her dignity? Why, at her writing desk. There is noth ing in the world so cumbersome as false dignity in true, honest, heartfelt, pleasure, and Mme. Adam is intelligent enough to know that.

To continue my series of house description, I must include that of Mme. Adam. She has built this house on Rue Juliette Lambert. Juliette Lambert is her nom de plume, and the city has paid her the com pliment of naming the street after her. Tho peculiar shape of the lot, terminating into almost an ncute angle, has allowed the architect to build a house which is replete with nooks and arcades that) give the in terior a most original aspect. A large part of the best space, as in all sumptuous French houses, has been left for the staircase. The house being only three stories high, ample light is thrown on it by the immense skylight.

The stairs are made of hard wood, and the bannisters are artistic specimens of modern and ancient carving. Upon looking up you find in each story, on the landings, a curve in the balustrade, which allows a pedestal for a statue or an immense vase filled with plants and flowers. This is of most happy effect as seen from below and also close by as you mount the steps. The walls arc hnng with deep red hangings, ornamented with deep cordovan leather borders, running up and down from the floor and ceiling. Besides paintings, etchings and engravings of old and modern masters, the walls are covered with panoplies of rare arms and armors faiences of all countries, statues of all kinds, and in each corner, on a low pedestal, are rare specimens of chimeras and gods hailing from the orient.

When through an open arcaded door you enter from the landing into the rooms of the second story, you find yourself In a small inclosureof most surprising construction. To the right is a line of stained windows and to the left a series of draped ar cades, which on one side terminate Into an angle. As you advance and you find your self under those arcades you see that they form a sort of triangle, whose side opposite the acute angle is traced by the wall of the house, and that this wall is filled with niches which are receptacles for statues and other objects of art. This arcade leads into the dining room and one sees at a glance that tliis room has been constructed with a special view to comfort and convenience.

On crossing under the «rcade again and going beyond the room that seems to serve as an antechamber to the dining room, you suddenly find yourself in two or three beautifully draped little nooks, whose cushioned divans and chairs invite you to test, converse or havo a smoke after a meal. These lead into the library, which, besides the indfepea -able bookcases and comfortable seats, is full ci busts, Ktataes, paintings and outer artistic varieties. In the story abov\ constructed in the same manner, are the drawing and bedrooms. There, in the smalt, irregularly shaped room

4

leads int The large drawing

room, beholds the 1 of Mme. Adam and thatc

r.-r

husband, Edmund Adam,

who died iime after the wsr **Whem is her study—the room :n wl She f-'"r V—wj westk, 'en, sac«" 1 hear. --k. has. neueteherkouse. Sfcetftftb well as vntmnn fc&jJ fa.Ofathel ?for the pi tau*'*" at 4a® Pot® inwre.—r1 Cor. ..

Harness and Bojgy.-FiM Offer, A $10 8et of Harness for oniy $4.55. A |100 Top Buggy for only $49.75. You can examine our goods at your place before paying one cent. Send for illustrated catalogue giving prices to oonsumers that are less than retail dealers actual cost. Send address and this advertise ment to ALVAH MANUFACTURING Co. Dept. E. E.. Chicago, Ills.

The Temperature of the Bach.

The temperature of the bath is a mooted question upon which doctor and patient disagree. To some persons there is nothing more bracing and invigorating than a cold plunge, while others do not recover for hours from the chill such a bath gives. Certain physicians recommend a very hot bath and assert that it is as stimulating in its after effects as is the cold plunge and less likely to produce ill effects. Nearly ail unite in declaring immersion in the tepid bath relaxing and thus detrimental to health.

The question is one that each bather must settle for herself. What suits one may be positively harmful to another. Certain it is that the hot or warm bath is more cleansing than cold water. The sudden chill of the latter closes the pores and prevents the escape of the effete matter it is the object of the bath to remove. The woman who takes a cold plunge for its after effects should first sponge herself in warm water and achieve cleanliness before she indulges herself in her "bracer."

Only the best soap should be used in bathing, and many women do not use soap at all, preferring the bags of bran, oatmeal or almond meal which may be procured from druggists or other dealers in toilet articles. By the use of these bags the skin is cleansed and softened delightfully. A greasy skin is sometimes benefited by the addition to the bath of one or two tablespoonfuls of household ammonia. Borax is also excellent for this purpose,—Harper's Bazar. _____

Pits—All Fits stopped free by Dr. Kline's Great Nerve Restorer. No Fits after the first day's use. Marvelous cures, eatise and ?2.00 trial bottle free to Fi cases. Send to Dr. Kline, 931 Arch St., Phila., Pa.

Staking a Bread Poultice.

The home nursing class was instructed in poultice making the other day, and one of the first things they were taught was how to make a poultice of bread and water, or bread and milk. Sufficient bread was freed from its crust and then crumbled into the boiling liquid and beaten together with a fork until the mass wits soft and light. When the poultioe was so thick that it would not run, it was spread upon apiece of cheesecloth considerably more than twice the size of the spot it was to cover. The remaining half of the cloth was then folded over it, and the edges basted together. Sometimes only folding is necessary, and again, when poultices have to be changed quickly and orten, it is an advantage to put the mixture into bags of cheesecloth and baste them at one end.

Cheesecloth is so soft and porous that it is well to keep a few yards laid by for poultice cloths. It is also so inexpensive that there need be no scruples against burning it after it has been once used. The poultice of flaxseed meal is made much like cornmeal mush, stirring the meal into hot water until it swells and becomes soft. Elm bark poultices are made in the same way.—New York Post.

The Father

Of all diseases is impure blood, when loaded with foul humor, How important then that the blood should be pure, rich, and strong, without which there can be no health. To purify the blood Sulphur Bitters is incomparably the best medicine that it is possible to obtain,—^Tnre EDITOK,

Teach Glrla IIow to Use Money.

Would it not be wise if some exercises in the mysteries of money were added to the curriculum of every girl's studies? A boyfinds it out by actual contact with the public as soon as he is out and apart of it, but a girl may become a mature woman, shrinking then through the habit of long protection, and be thrown on the mercies of the world, with her money, to fall a prey to tho first cheat and cozen.

She is taught at school the spectra of the stars and the map of Mars. What pity that

Hospitality In tho Home.

The spirit of the true host is not governed by his wealth. The truest hospitality may be found as often in the simple cottage as in the stately mansion. It has naught to do with external state. The. genuine friend is always a true host, be he poor or rich, The false or pretentious woman or man is incapable of true hospitality. They may dwell in lordly halls and welcome their friends with baronial splendor, but the r^ng of friendship is not in their voice. They are thinking more of dazzling their guest with their own importance than of ministering to his welfare.

The true hostess is forgetful of herself in the care of her guests, though she never burdens them with her care. She rather seeks to minister to their needs in so quiet a manner that they do not feel that they toe the cause of extra trouble.—New York Tribune.

Owe my Life to You? That is a strong statement ..Yet exactly what Miss Gertrude Sickler, of Wilton, N. Jn has written to Mrs. Pinkham*

She says: I suffered terribly with suppressed and painful menstrua* tions. Doctors could only keep me from having fits each month by giving me morphine. This continued until I was completely prostrated.

My father at last got me a bottle of Lydia E. Pink hams Vegetable Compound\ which at once gave me relief. It did what the doctors could not cured me. I never have any trouble now, and have no dread of the coming month.

I owe my life to you. Oh 1 if other suffering women would try your valuable medicine they would bless you as I do."

All dramft*** It* A•* -ress»«•*.«* h»' «u Mc

CO., Li.

lltfl'

{.

®§lflll

V.

KNIFE

£o

..

-..r

POCKET KNIVES

the ONE HUNDRED PARTIES sending us tho next greatest number of SPEAR HEAD TAGS, we will givo to each 1

has madei

{JIMCU

v$ jtp&n

That ili-h^ft-l'th is not the normal condition of the sex.

2d. That ill-health is not unavoidable.

3d. That it is asocial crime to be ill when one may be well.

4th. That there are no **hopeless cases."

5th. That VIAVI is curing the so-called "hopeless cases" every day.

6th. What every woman, who has proved its value, has to say about VIA VI. This may be learned by calling at Boom 6, McKeen Block, where free consttltation may bo had with lady of experience.

Health

book free to any address.

GREAT SPEAR HEAD CONTEST.

OHBW

GPEAR H&JG

SAVE THE TAGS.

One Hundred and Seventy-Three Thousand Two Hundred and Fifty Dollars,

$173,250.00

In valuable Presents to be Given Away in Return for

SPEAR HEAD TAGS.

1,1 56 STEM WINDING ELGIN GOLD WATCHES 8&.050 00 5.775 FINE IMPORTED FRENCH OPERA GLASSES, MOROCCO BODY, BLACK ENAMEL TRIMMINGS, GUARANTEED ACHROMATIC... 28,875 00 23.100 IMPORTED GERMAN BUCKHORN HANDLE, tfOUR BLADED

116.500 ROLLED GOLD WATCH CHARM ROTARY TELESCOPE TOOTH PICKS

1 1 6.500 LARGE PICTURES (14x28 Inches) IN ELEVEN COLORS, for framing, no advertising on them 28,875 00 261,030 PRIZES, AMOUNTING TO $173,260 00

The above articles will bo distributed, by connttes, among parties who chew SPEAR HEAD Plug Tobacco, and return to us the TIN TAOS taken therefrom. We will distribute 226 of these prizes In this connty as follows: To THE PARTY sending us the greatest number of SPEAR HEAD

TAGS from this county wo will give 1 GOLD WATCH. To the FIVE PARTIES sending us the next greatest number of SPEAR HEAD TAGS, wo will give to each, 1 OPERA GLASS....5 OPERA GLASSES. To the TWENTY PARTIES sending us the next greatest number of SPEAR HEAD TAGS, we will give to each 1 POCKET

ROLLED GOLD WATCH CHARM TOOTH PICK 100 TOOTH PICKS. To tho ONE HUNDRED PARTIES sending us tho next greatest number of SPEAR HEAD TAGS, we will givo to each 1

LARGE PICTURE IN ELEVEN COLORS 100 PICTURES. Total Number of Prises for this County, 226. CAUTION.—No Tags will bo received before January 1st, 1884, nor after February 1st, 1894. Each package containing tags must bo marked plainly with Name of Sender, Town, County State, and Number of Tags in each package. All charges on packages must bo PrePaREAI)t_gpEAR HEAD possesses more qualities of Intrinsic value than any other plug tobacco produced. It ie tho iweetest, the toughest, the rioheRt. BPEAIt 11KAI is absolutely, positively and distinctively diflforent In flavor from any other plug tobacco. A trial will convince the most skeptical of this fact. It is tho largest seller of any Similar shape and style on earth, which proves that it has caught the popular taste and pleases tho people. Try It, and participate In the contest for prizes. See that a TIN TAG is on every 10 cent piece of SPEAR HEAD rou buy. Sena In the tags, no matter bow small tho quantity.

ery

BxHEpf'j.

A list of the people obtaining these prizes In this county will bo published In this paper immediately after February 1st, 1894.

DON'T SEND ANY TIGS BEFORE JANUARY fr 1894.

DO YOU KEEP IT IN THE HOUSE?

PAIN-KILLER

Will Cure Cramps, Colic, CholeraMorbus and all Bowel Complaints.

PRICE, 25o„ 50c., and $1.00 A BOTTLE.

Artificial Stone Walks,

and Plastering,

Mondy & Coffin,

Leave orders at 1517 Poplar St., 1241 Sbuth Fiftb St., 901 Main St, Terra Hante, Ind

OliX)

Frescoing.

GEO. H. HUGHES, ,2i£jk.TSrA.Q-22~S.

M&-

great Improvements, owing to increaae of boisiness, and now prepared to clean and color all kinds of ladies apparel to any desired shade.

AH work

flemen'sKunnenuTcIean^.'cwiored and repaired. All work guaranteed nottoshrtnk, smut or fade. TT. J?. ~pTTj"^! Practical Dyer and Renovater, 855 Wabash avenue

t:

LJ.

23,100 00

57,760 00

20 POCKET KNIVES.

irr,

SORG COMPANY, MinnLKtowN, OHIO.

Of-n-

guaranteed nottoshrtnk,.

St'vfh&QtJC).,