Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 23, Number 39, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 18 March 1893 — Page 6
NEW YOltK FASHIONS.
AN ALMOST ENDLESS LINE OF NOVELTIES IN BROCADED SILKS.
Handsome Gown* In New sind Iteautlfal Materials—An Kaitcr Weilding Drew. Queer Names For Fashionable Colors and
Fabrics.
(Copyright. IKS, by American Press Association.! Daring 1
Mat tbegovrns that are to be worn
In midsummer are made, nticl tbey probably have fcecn thought as early as January, when the first of the
Reason's
washable
goods are put forth for the early birds. These being made and laid carefully aside, the attention is turned toward the spring woolens, which, oddly enough, are not shown until after the dainty new ginghams, percales, sateens, zephyrs, etc., are sold or at least well picked over.
BHOWN AND BLACK DAMASK GOWN. The woolen gowns decided upon, the spring and summer silks are to be chosen, and there are more kinds, colors and qualities of silks shown this season than I ever saw before. Aside from the regular line of plain silks there Is an almost endless line of novelties in brocades and in faconne and imprime effects. The faconnes are faced with satin in patterns not exactly brocade, but near it. The imprime is printed. The printed figures on a solid ground have all the lovely colors that nature gives to the blossoms of spring and summer, and every flower is perfect.
In some, whore the ground is a delicately tinted cream or other shade, scarcely more than white, are pansies in natural colors that seem to have been carelessly tossed on the fabric, and they are thicker and closer together near the bottom, saw one piece of sage green silk so pale that it was nearly white, and all over this were velvet pansies in natural colors. This was a very expensive piece of goods, and I havo not
Been
it duplicated or anything else approaching it this season. It was superb. There is a rich black silk that resembles faille on one side and armure or surah on the other. It is equally beautiful on either side and is much liked in making draped effects, whero both sides can show in jabot folds.
The failles are seen in all the new spring colors, and so are the ottoman and bengalines. Some of the bcngalines have pinhead figures and over these a watered effect not pronounced enough to be real 'moire. Thero is nothing richer than a black moire, aud thero are some this season with satin or velvet stripes, and one odd combination had a black moire ground with a large plaid outlined in pale straw, red and blue, and in the center of the plaid a tiny rosebud thrown up in swivel weave.
T11K HIUDAL GOWK.
&ilaids
1
I saw some striking effects of Scotch In satiir lines over black grenadine, A these are made up over black glaco silks, the grenadine scarcely shows, and the gown looks as if the bright plaid lines made the whole fabric.
Among the novelties one may mention the suraline glace, which is a surah with a taffeta crispncss about it, and the velvetiiu\ a sort of velvety looking surface obtained by throwing up every other thread. Damns glace is a taffeta with small patterns in damask weave, usually of the color or colors in the body of the silk. For instance, thero is a golden brown shot with black, and the figures are of the brown shaded with black. The effect is very quaint, and these make very useful dresses.
A handsome walking dress was made of a gold brown and blade damask in a sort of basket pattern. Around the bottom of this was a band of magenta red velvet, and this Jn turn bad three narrow bands of astra khan tor. The sleeves were of plain surah to match the bwfwn, and a yoke of the vol vet finished the neck. Around the waist and sleeves were bands of jeweled perslan embroidery. This damask is quite inexpensive and Is very durable. It is better lulled for middle aged ladies than very young ones, and yet they are quite fashionable for children from 8 to 6 years old and give the little wearers a deliciousiy quaint Rppearanco.
Gros de londres is the name of another heavy silk for *muonlous wear, and imperial te bctVrwii a faille and ottoman, "wrf elegant- §pme of the t&ffet* glace has flgnr« in brocade looking as if covered with la***, and the ombre taffeta peking has nWintj cherry figures on it. These are made by stamping the warp of Use silk before the woof Is woven In, and when it is woven the somehow lose their places a little, so that the edges of the figures are dim and
Indistinct, instead of being clear and sharp like those in *4lks that are printed alter having been woven. These are usually made with light colors and tint*.
There art come novelties in white silks
t, «J, 'f V"-* —i^——
for weddings, one of the prettiest being a brocade in small figures of velvet on a grosgrain ground. This is for grand toilet or for weddings, and as after Easter there are usually a number of them I will portray a wedding gowu uitule of this brocade for a young lady well known to New York society, whose wedding will take place soon.
The dress is princess front and back, but cut away shape in front and under the arms, where it is filled in with satin duchess. The skirt opens on the left side over a panel of satin embroidered in chenille, with an orange blossom wreath and foliage. Around the short train and bordering the high collar are bands of ostrich flues. Orange sprays are to be fastened on corsage, shoulders and hair. The veil is of tulle and will fall in front to the waist and in the back to the feet. It is to be held by a spray, and the tulle will 1» held up like a bow on the top.
I must not omit mention of the renaissance effects in silks, which resemble upholstery in some instances and in others the dainty watteau pictures, and the large patterned cheneys. They call all these renaissance styles Ferdinand-Isabel and give them names that recall the voyage of Columbus. The shades are "cloister of la rabida," a somber enough shade, and the brilliant blue and red of Salvador and Orinoco. I saw a gown of silk with a sort of wavy line in slate gray and black, and this is called "sea and shore." The skirt was entirely plain, with a narrow double band down the front of emerald green velvet. The puffed sleeves were of the velvet, and there were deep lace bretelles, which, I fancy, represented mountain peaks.
The names of the newtwlors seem to have something of aspiration after the beautiful about them. For instance, Amiral Russe, Moscow, Baltic, Marengo, Zanzibar, Dahomey, Corea, Ozoff—all these bordering on red. In the blues we have anemone, email, ibis, capucine, hyacinth, dahlia and andromeda. In green there are pistache, cactus, velasquez, printemps (springtime), serpolet, artichoke, chicory and prairie. In the bro\vns, which are all on the golden or russet tint, there are mage, madone, soleil, flamne, rouille, bisque, chardon and nnbienne. Beyond these we find mostly delicate tints and half tones. One of the prettiest combinations of color is that obtained In a dress of purple cashmere, the purple being a dull shade, and prairie green velvet. The gown has a double skirt, and both top and bottom have four rows of graduated black braid. The sleeves are quite elaborate of velvet and cashmere, with double caps. The skirt is stiffened with horsehair lining.
The new "England" wool goods for walking dresses make very handsome gowns. A pattern where the ground was dull indigo blue, with broken lines of black on it, was ,'J? a «h 1** *-v ISU
BPnnra gowns.
made up in a plain skirt and waist, with the vandyke collar, the sash and forearms of copper colored velvet. The collar and buttons were bound with marten fur. This same goods is seen in mode, drab, biscuit, tan, olive and several of the subdued shades of green aud red, in all cases having the black broken lines. It is in quality between cheviot and camel's hair, and from the texture it bids fair to be durable. It certainly is a handsome material.
There is nothing prettier for young persons than the new organdies in wool and silk and the soft lawns. The lawns will only be worn when warm weather comes, but the organdies can be worn at any time and are suitable for dinner, informal parties and even for dancing dresses later on. It is supposed that every young lady dances, and therefore needs a dress. One thought worthy of presentation was of pink of a wild rose tint with stripes of grass green, and between them tiny pomegranate flowers and leaf. There was a lace bertha and a crape lisse ruffle and between them a puffing of pale green crape, with wax pearl beads twisted around the puff. The bottom had a fiat band of the crape, with lattice work of beads between the rolled puffs. This model is an easy one to copy and very dressy and pretty.
I must not close this letter without mentioning the beautiful laces of the season, for no lady's wardrobe is complete without lace, and as much, of it as she can afford. Thero will be a good jdeal of lace used in flouncings, both wide and narrow, and for this chantlliy is the prettiest and in the best favor. There are many varieties of patterns of black drapery nets, which vary in price from 43 cents to $3 per yard, and they are excellent to make up over a silk that has seen its best days. There are some new net top laces, with chantilly patterns let in, white and black. The black patterns let in over the white net are wonderfully pretty.
GOWX
OT
1
mm
a
"ESGLA.XD" AND DtX2»TEK DRESS OF QBGASBIE.
Yak lace is shown in black, which will be need to some extent on light wrape, but mostly on skirts. There are also net top guipure laces which are excellent for trimming, as guipure is the only pure silk lace made except in very high prices. Bourbon lace, also black. Is anew lace mot so heavy as guipure nor so light as chantilly. and the patterns are beautiful. The net top is in
white, ecrn and black- MateLkbot. •mm
7 E E A E S A A E E N I N A I A S 8 9 3
TWO OF THE CABINET LADIES.
Sketches of Mrs. Walter Q. Gresham and Mrs. Hdke Smith. fPfrhough less is probably known of them by the general public than of some of the other cabinet ladies, two of the most charming women in the social life of President Cleveland's new administration will undoubtedly be Mrs. Walter Q. Gresham and Mrs. Hoke
Smith. Although her husband has been almost constantly before the public for many
_____ years, Mrs. Gresh-
filH'JK' "TIRHMPRP" £f#m has led as retired a life as pos-
MRS. GRESHAM.
sible and devoted
most of her time and attention to household affairs. She is a native of Louisville, where her father was a merchant, and where she passed the earlier years of her girlhood. Her family went to Indiana, and there she met her husband for the first time and married him in 1858. when she was but 18yearsold.
Mr. Gresham was among the first to answer his country's call for troops at the beginning of the war, and his young wife was left with her little family to endure an anxious period of watching and waiting only too common among American women in those days. She visited her husband at the front several times, nursing him when wounded and sharing hardships that would have appalled many men.
A little below the average height, Mrs. Gresham has a girlish figure, and her face is framed by hair now liberally sprinkled with gray. Her eyes are blue and very expressive. She dresses well and talks fluently, with a trace of the southern accent. She is the mother of two children—a daughter, Mrs. W. H. Andrews, and a son, Otto, 83 years of age, a bachelor, who makes his home with his parents.
Mrs. Hoke Smith is the youngest daughter of General Thomas R. B. Cobb of Athens, Ga., who gained distinction during the war in the Confederate service. She was but 15 years old when she first met her husband, and confesses to a little' fear of the big young lawyer, who was, by her account, a little dictatorial in his on ner. She MRS. HOKE SMITH, naively ascribes the beginning of their love to the fact that she was audacious enough to defy him. Their engagement was along one, lasting five years. Her mother was an invalid, and Miss Cobb was reluctant to leave her.
On her marriage Mrs. Smith became the mistress of a beautiful and spacious home in Atlanta, which has ever since been the center of a generous and charming hospitality, which it is confidently predicted will be continued in Washington. Mrs. Smith is a youthful and very' attractive vjoman and the proud mother of three pretty.children—two girls and a boy. *v* 'F
JOSIAH THE SIXTH.
tate
The New Assistant Secretary Comes of a Historic If am.il In appointing Josiah Quincy as .asrfjfcant secretary of state President Cleveland recognized one of the foremost leaders of the younger element of the Massachusetts Democracy. Mr. Quincy has been a prominent worker for his party and has served three terms as a member of the Massachusetts legislature. He has devoted himself to the study of politics, both from a scientific and a practical standpoint, and quickly grasps the theoretical aspect of a question and settles it in a practical way. His ability in this respect was of great service to his party during the last 'campaign, when he was chairman of the national committee's subcommittee on campaign literature and devoted himself actively to the work of the literary bureau. Mr.
JOSIAH QUINCY. Quincy was originally a Republican, but separated from that party in 1884 on the tariff question and has since been actively engaged in spreading tariff reform doctrine. It is said that his first and what he considers his most important work will be to procure and publish anew series of consular reports from all parts of the world, with the design of enlightening the American people as to opportunities for commercial investment abroad.
Few families have been more prominent in American history than the Quincys of Massachusetts. The first of them came to the country in 1628, and every generation since then has had a representative who has rendered conspicuous public services. The new assistant secretary is the sixth of the name Josiah to become distinguished. There was a Josiah born in 1702 who was the familiar friend of Washington and Franklin. Josiah, his son, born in 1744, was one of the great men of his time, foreseeing early the necessity of the separation from England. The third Josiah, son of the second, born in 1772, was the first mayor of Boston and was president of Harvard from 1829 to 1845. The fourth Josiah, born in 1802, was also mayor of Boston. The fifth, Josiah Phillips Quincy, -who was born in 1829 and still lives in Boston, having a country home §t Quincy, Mara., is the father of the new assistant secretary. His son, the present Josiah, was born Oct. 15, 1S50, and graduated from Harvard in 1880.
A Son of Dickens.
Mr. Alfred Tennyson Dickens lives in Camberwell, a delightful suburb of Melbourne. He was for a number of years a partner in a Victorian stock and station agency business. Invited by the Melbourne Bankers' institute to deliver a lecture, he gave within the compass of a couple of hours a series of graphic and hig^y interesting recollections of his famous father. His success as a lecturer waa so pronounced that he went on tour through the colonies and redelivered the lecture to crowded audiences in all the leading oenters
of popular
lion. His brother, Mr. Edward Bulwer Lytton Dickens, the youngest son of the novelist. Is set tied |n the adjoining colony of New South Wales and represents Wilcautda in the Sydney parliament.
A Blomt Chinaman,
San Francisco's Chinatown boasts of a rarity in a full blooded Chinese who Is probably the only redheaded one on the face of the earth. And, what is more, the Chinese has a light complexion and blue eyes, and he is cram eyed.
CROWDS AT THE FAIR
AMPLE TRANSPORTATION FACILITIES AT JACKSON PARK.
Where Disciples of Ixaak Walton Will Find Their Greatest Pleasure—The Old Liberty Bell Will Be There—Installing the
Exhibits, till: fi&V
Chicago expects to receive and e: at the fair the largest crowds of people over massed together anywhere on earth. For months some of the ^Jackson park authorities have devoted themselves to solving the problem of how to handle the immense numbers that will daily besiege the gates of the fair grounds. Now the plans are perfected and most of the work done.
There will be four great arteries of communication with the park, the gates, the piers on the lake, the elevated road and the
iis
ENTRANCES AND TOWERS OF THE FISHERIES BUILDING.
grand central railway terminal. The latter has cost more thought, fcibor and money than all the others combined. On the depot alone $400,000 has already been expended. It is designed to furnish an object lesson in the proper care of passengers and will include every known device for the comfort of travelers. Upon its tracks 85 distinct trains of 18 cars each, with locomotives and tenders, will stand side by side. Together these will accommodate 27,800 people, and as they can be loaded and sent off momentarily it will take but a short time to dispatch double that number..
The transportation department has sent out rush orders to all intending exhibitors. It is important that this department should not be more overcrowded at the last moment than is absolutely inevitable, and therefore exhibitors have been asked to get in early. Ten times the number of carloads so far received on any one day could be handled. The methods of installation are simple and flexible and yet comprehensive enough to suit any likely emergency. Tracks are laid from the railroad entrance to the grounds to all the principal buildings. Inside the structures special transfer tracks are provided, upon which push cars are operated. Machinery hall has the only full size track inside any of the buildings, and there the exhibits are carried dircctly in without transfer and handled by immense traveling cranes capable of moving 20 tons each.
The fisheries exhibit will be one of the most attractive in the whole exposition. The waters of the earth will be ransacked for representatives of their denizens, and lake, brook, river and ocean will contribute their quotas for the instruction of mankind. The Fisheries building will be admirably arrayed to display the finny tribes to the best advantage, and marine plants, shells and artificial rockworkwill add realism to the glass sided tanks through which visitors will behold the watery wondere. Adequate provision has been made for supplies of both salt and fresh water, and great care has been taken to preserve the life and health of the fish. For illuminating the various aquaria at night 750 incandescent lamps will be used. Nearly all the light in the building will come through the water in the tanks, and as the bylbs above the tanks will not be visible the effect will be beautiful.
Philadelphia has consented to lend her most precious relic—the old Liberty bell— to the exposition and will send four policemen with it as a guard of honor. It is a safe prediction that few things will be more attractive than the bell that announced the signing of the Declaration of Independence, though it is now dumb and can no longer, in the words of its motto, "Proclaim liberty throughout all the land unto all the inhabitants thereof." The bell will be exhibited in the Pennsylvania building. The last time it left Philadelphia was when it wds taken to the New Orleans cotton exhibition. It will be exhibited in the principal cities along the route,
The agricultural department is attracting a great deal of attention abroad, and 85 foreign countries have taken space and will exhibit. As a comparative study few departments will be of more interest. The various governments will display side by side their methods for advancing agricultural interests and helping the farmer to a better appreciation of scientific methods. A list of the foreign nations exhibiting In this department, with the amount of space in square feet assigned to each, is given below:
4
Great Britain 14,178 Japan 3,033 Germany 11,875 Denmark 1,584 France 7,603 Sweden 1,718 Canada 7,760 Algeria & French Argentine Rep... 3,811 cols, in Africa.. 4,600 Uruguay. 883 Cape Good Hope. 2,158 Paraguay......... 1,666 Australia 8,587 Honduras W0 Austria...... 4,461 Slam. 702 Ceylon. 1,684 Chill 1,207 Spain and PhilBraziL 7,356 ippineislands.. 3,468 Venezuela IfiW Cuba 1,444 Mexico 6,064 British Guiana... 1,783 Holland 2,048 HaytL 860 French colonies.. 1,806 Liberia........... 98# Colombia 1,834 Curacoa. 668 Ecuador &34 Peru 1^2
The Illinois state building is now in the hands of tbestate board and is being rapidly transformed from a bare edifice to an industrial palace Illustrating every feature of the state's widely varied resources, Industries, institutions and history.
MOVTSG THE LIBERTT BELU
More than 400 cars containing exhibits or consignments for special concessionaires, liable to import duties, have been handled by the custom house officials at Jackson park since Jan. 1.
Secretary Culp has been asked to reserve the week of July 26 for the commercial travelers of the world. The drummers of the United States are preparing for a six days' Jubilee will be one of the events of the fair. They expect to have a parade with 100,000 men and
100
bands in line.
Cm
BAITEE.
N
That cure of Geo. W. Turner of Galway, N. Y., of scrofula, by Hood's Sarsaparilla, was one of the most remarkable on record.
SPRINGTIME HOSIERY.
Embroidered to Match the Gown and .-'Colored to Match Shoes. The spring hosiery as it is displayed in the shop windows is calculated to fascinate and even dazzle the feminine beholder. The black stocking is embroidered in flowers and bowknots and polka dots, all in delicate colors to match the gown with which they are worn. Stockings in two tones are among the novelties.
a
New patterns in silk hosiery to match fancy leathers in shoes for spring and summer wear are an extensive line.
A range of new designs in tartan plaids is shown both in silk and thread hosiery. In lisle thread goods the entire range of the lighter tan shades is 3hown.
The latest development in black lace patterns is to continue the open work design to the very top of the stocking, and not only in front, but quite around the leg. J, y,
The three patterns of ladies' hosiery illustrated represent some of the newest designs in fancy stockings, both silk and
HOSIERY FOR SPRING.
lisle thread, for the coming season. The seoond is a silk stocking with full open work embroidery in the boot shape of foot and ankle, which is of course black, the upper portion in color. A simple design in black embroidery is carried into the colored ground to break the rigid outline. The other two illustrations are of the newest patterns in thread hosiery. Fig. 3 is decidedly novel. The texture of the fabric is quite open, and the pattern extends to the top and nearly encircles the leg. The vertical open work stripes are outlined in colored silk, applied with a stitch resembling a bodkin stitch with a very origin. 1 effect. The remaining sketch' shov. a less pronounced novelty, the e: .broidery being confined to the front more conventional form, but the black ground has a rather wide open work stripe continued throughout the "length.
v~
1 1
To My Frlendu.
Ab you are well aware that I would not recommend tbat which I did not believe to be good, I desire to say to all who need a good reliable, family medicine, that I believe one botttle of Sulphur Bitters will do you more good than any other remedy 1 ever saw.—Rkv. Sbphus SOULE.
Bow to Arrange the Hall
The accompanying sketch shows in a general way the trend of the new style in hairdressing. which is to no longer pile the hair in coils and puffs on the top of the head, but to arrange it at the back in graceful long shaped twists. It is style which suits most faces admirably, as it softens hard features and empha-
FTYM8H COIFFURE.
sizes delicate ones, though it is whispered by those in authority that these modes! coils are only the forerunners of large chignons, such as were displayed by the belles of 20 years ago
Mother'* Recommendation. We are acquainted with many mother's in Centervllie who would not be without Chamberlain's Cough Remedy in the bouse for a good many time# cost, and are recommending it every day. From personal experience we can say that it has broken up bad colds for our children.~CentervUle, 8outb Dakota, Citizen. 50 cent bottles for sale by druggists. Mcb.
A Fashionable Fad.
It ftril caprice of the moment with a certain set of girls who strive for fads and eccentricities to omit all punctuation marks in their letters. The New -York Times thinks that probably some one who couldn't put them in started the fashion, just as a girl at the opera a few yeans ago found that a sore finger throbbed and ached desperately if her band lay on her lap, and was much relieved when she held it upright. So she sat all the evening in a conspicuous box with one slender gloved hand touching her cheek, with the result of making the attitude a marked and raging fashion that entire season.
Chamberlain's Eye and Skin Ointment. A certain core for Chronic Sore Eyes, Tetter, Salt Kheum, Scald Head, Old Chronio Sores, Fever Sores, Eczema, Itch, Prairie Scratches, Sore Nipples and Files. It Is cooling and soothing. Hundreds of cases hare been cured by it after all other treatment had failed. 25oenteperbox. it
4
ft*
FOR HEADACHE orNEURALGIA. His
•A
It tones up the Nerves, and tliu. has a curative action in Headache, Neuralgia or Eheumatism. Money refunded if it does not cure.
Go to druggists for PhenyoCaffein* It is guaranteed to eurf Headache and Neuralgia.
Those who have taken PhcnyoCaffein for Headache or Neuralgia are unwilling to be without it
Take Phenyo-Caffoin for Headache "It does the work." 1 Why suffer with Headache' or Neuralgia, when Phenyo Cnffein is to be had at your druggists?
ROSS GORDON.
THC
X.AFAYKTTK, INI). I
WHO'L'ESAI.15 AGENT FOR INDIANA.'
PLEASANT
NEXT MORNINQ I FEEL BRIQHT AND NEW AND MY COMPLEXION IS BETTER. Mjr doctor says it acta gently on the atomach, liver and kidners, awl la a pleasant laxative. This drink la made from herbs, and is prepared ibr use aa easily as tea. It Is called
1
cannot get it, send your address Ibr a free sample. L.ane'a Family Medicine move a the bowela •ach day. In order to be healthy this Is necessary, •ddresa 0BATOR F. WOODWA1W, LK ROY, N.t
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WHERE DOLLARS ARE MADE
BASIA, MI88IKHIPPI, and LOUISIANA (IFFKRS WtKATKB OPPORTUNITIES TO
SETTLERS, MANU FACTURERSkGENERA BUSINESS ENTERPRISE
than any other part of the U. 8., vast bodies of
Coal, Iron, Timber & Farm Lands
Also THOUSAND of ACRES
of
LON«
LEAP YELLOW PINE tot sale cheap. Tbl# road runs through the thriving town* of Lexington, Danville, and Somerset, Ky.
oo#a. AJa. Meridian, uattiesou^. jacKson and vicksbarsf, MUn. New Orleans, Delhi, Monroe, and Hhreveport,
La. Some
of the
new town* will donate money and land to locate manofartnrltig enterprise*. The
R. Il.X'ii. will make low
i&Usn tor
Pas
sengers and Freight, and afford investors every opportunity to examine the different localities. If neceasary, will send a representative with the party.
Full particular*, and any required in formatlon, will be sent by mail on application to D. O. EDWARDS, G. P. A T. Agt..
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