Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 23, Number 29, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 7 January 1893 — Page 6

THE WOM4N OF FASHION.

Tresses as They Are Worn at the Present Time.

The Styles in CoifTures—How to Get the Desired Silky Kflfect 2s"o More Hot Irons Pretty Hair

Ornaments.

ICOPVTUGHT. 1892.1

What a wonderful amount of attention we give our tresses of late! Almost every woman we meet has a plan of her own for caring lor her locks, which she will give you in minutest detail and implore you to follow. Almost every periodical we pick np has a note in the woman's column on "How to Treat the Hair," and it seems as if a genuine reaction has set in. Last season and the season before and the one before that

ALL IN "filKEK IJUFF8.

we ruthlessly and recklessly curled' and waved our hair to the greatest pos^ sible extent. The front, the back and the sides of our head all presented a beautiful crinkly appearance that was most dear to our hearts. Any little stray pieces we could discover were subjected to the same process the heated iron was produced and the lock wound firmly around it until it lost all vestige of its original appearance. And we pursued our mad eourso until one fine morning, when we awoke to the fact that our wavy locks were falling away that it would not be long before they utterly disappeared if we did not soon call a halt. Instead of getting longer, our tresses were really, in some strange, mysterious fashion, growing shorter. It didn't seem possible at first, laUt iWtual measurement proved it to be a fact.

Then came the resolve, which has b('*n so steadily adhered to ever since. We determined to renounce our curls forever, and strive after the smooth, glossy, satiny appearance of the hair of our grandmothers. The curling irons were pushed aside in utter contempt, and a stiff brush was brought out from its long retirement. Everyone told us to brush and brush we did, and brush we do still, and brush we shall until that gloss appears. When it comes we'll brush to keep it there. Then, of course, wo use all the washes and the dry rubbings as well, to help on the good work.

There's another factor in the operation, and no mean one, I assure you. A nightcap, girls, is the very thing we want. Don't shrink back at the word you don't know how pretty and charming a nightcap may be made, if you haven't tried. Silk must be the material, for sillc softens the hair wonderfully. Muslin will never add the soft sheen to your tresses that silk will. So get a pretty cap, all ruflles and ribbons and a little luce. and wear it faithfully all the year round. And you'll be rewarded when you pass your hand over the smooth locks, and find them growing smoother daily, frit your hair back bravely. Don't mind if doesn't look pretty at first. If you want to be consoled for your appearance, just look at your neighbor's hair, and you will in all probability find that she is pursuing the same course as you, with the same result.

How shall we arrange our hair when it has been satisfactorily polished? There seems to be great laxity this seaBon in the regulations regarding styles. There is not., as so often, one fashion that every womau follows, be it becoming or not. Women wear their hair

OF SOFT LOOSB BRAIDS.

high, or in the middle of the head, as thov are disposed. The neck coils seem to have departed this life completely.

The empire is pretty and popular. Gather your hair together at the crown of the her.d and fasten it. Put a small Bilot around the fastening. Then dispose of the ends in puffs and coils, keeping all .-Irvvelj together. Of course this Is d-.rBenlt aetv one is favored with luxnv.- nt 'h •••'»»•", Imt it is very fionwalent thin ones, that do scarcely more that) aieet when gathered together.

Or the hair can iravhorod in the Bairn way and then disposed of in three thick loops, the top One very large and reaching up well on the top of the head.

the others falling aown toward the back then the ends are made into two big loops below the others and a pin stuck through the whole.

Braids are very popular, indeed, and may be arranged in almost any way one pleases so long as they don't get too near the neck. It is well to start all arrangements by gathering together or twisting the hair at the top of the head. Then you are free to go ahead.

If you have a great deal of hair, a pretty way to fix it is to divide it, after fastening, into two. Then braid each half into a loose braid of four strands and lay it around your head in such a manner that it will be quite broad and high on top, gradually sloping in and narrowing as it gets down the back.

Ah, but there's nothing prettier than the smooth, shiny hair parted in the middle of the head, combed down over the brows, and then broilght around to the back. If it is becoming to you, by all means adopt it. If it is not, be wise and let it alone. Here one is allowed more latitude. For the hair may be gathered quite low at the back and may be waved a very little at the side. If there is any natural wave in your hair then let the little locks cluster about your ears, and there's nothing more bewitching than this mode of arranging.

If you are very young you may wear your hair at the nape of the neck with perfect propriety.

All the pretty ornaments and combs used now lend added charms to "woman's crowning loveliness." Thp fine gold bands, with pretty ornaments standing up in the center, with ribbon bows, or aigrettes added, cover a multitude of sins, and even if a woman hasn't the prettiest hair in the world, or the best-shaped head, she can easily cover deficiencies by a few graceful pins, a tiara of brilliants or some other pretty prnamentation.

Another way to arrange a very short head of heir is to roll in on6 large, Stngle puff at the crown of the head, catch tne puff down by a very small, band, and have a profuse bunch of aigrettes standing out of the middle of it. Below the aigrettes put in a pretty side comb.

Or you may coil your hair at the back, rather high, and then cover the top of the head with a low, spreading mass of flowers.

Plumes are very becoming, standing a little to one side of a high coiffure. But in coiffures, as in almost everything this winter, one may suit herself to a large extent, using any or a number of ornamentations to make up the lovely effects. But if you draw your hair

AIGRETTES, FLOWERS ANB FILLETS.

back from your forehead, be careful when you fasten it to see that it is not tight, for a soft, loose effect is particularly desirable.

*jt

EVA A. SCHUBERT.

The Talking: and Groaning Trie. I find the following letter in "Clark's Looking-Glass," a collection of curious stories published in 1608. The letter is from a Mr. Ralph Bovy, whom Clark says is a "Godly Minister." the letter bears date of July 4, 1800, and is as follows: "At Brampton, Toksey, near Gainsborough, an ash tree shaketh his body, sighing and groaning like a man troubled in his sleep, as if it felt some sensible torment. The mutterings can oe heard more plainly in the boughs than on the ground near the tree, but •ven there they fill one with terror. One man, who climbed to the top branches on a recent Sabbath, essayed to speak to the troubled tree. Whether or not he received an answer we will never know, as he fell down stone dead. One who. spoke to the tree three days ago lay speechless for hours thereafter, groveling and moaning in a most piteous way. Reviving after awhile he said: 'Brampton, Brampton, thou art much bound to pray.' The earl of Lincoln has caused one arm of the ash to be lopped off and a hole to be bored through the main part, and then was the hollow voice to be heard more plainly than before, but in a kind of speech which none present could understand." What finally became of these uncanny manifestations I am unable to say.— Philadelphia Press.

Why the Fljrnrcs Were Wrong:Prof. Truman He^ry Safford, of Williams college, is said to be one of the most remarkable lightning calculators now living. One day a gentleman who had heard of his powers and wished to make a test, said to him: "I have a little problem for you, Prof. Safford. I was born August 15, 1852, at S o'clock in the afternoon this is June 20, 1888, and it is just 8 o'clock. Now, can you tell me my age in seconds?"

The professor frowned, bent his head and began to walk rapidly up and down, twisting his mustache, and clasping and unclasping his hands in a nervous way. After a moment or so he returned the answer, which was somewhere in the billions.

The gentleman produced a paper containing the problem worked out,' and said, with a superior smile: "Well, professor, HI give you the credit for great geaira, but you're sever*! thousands oat."

The professor stretched out his hand far the paper, ana running over the calculation, said contemptuously: "Humph! you've left out the leap years."—Boston Globe.

^4-r-

,: v, n^iK.T

juinvm THOMAS BOOTH.

The Most Celebrated American Actor Now Living.

Why Ho Will Probably Xever Appear the Stage Again—A Strange, Eventful History— His Lifts Marred by a Brother's Crime.

[Special Letter.]

Although it is almost certainly outside the bounds of probability that Edwin Booth will ever act again he is not by any means in such physical condition as to make a discussion regarding whose shoulders the mantle of tragedy shall fall upon when he has passed away anything less than illtimed and inconsiderate. There is no doubt a very great misapprehension- as to Mr. Booth's present state of health He is a man now nearly sixty years of age and his long career upon the stage, a career to which he gave all his energy and the best of his mental powers, has been a constant strain, sapping up the springs of life. He is feeble land infirm, it is true, but though his sudden collapse some years ago, while playing

EDWIN T. BOOTH,

With Lawrence Barrett, may have been, as has been said, paralysis, his mental faculties are to-day clear and bright. An evidence of this was given at the time of the recent Corbett-Sullivan fight at New Orleans. Mr. Booth was out attending an evening social whep one of the lady guests came to himiSviih the news. "Mr. Booth," said she, "have you heard the report from New Orleans? Corbett has whipped Sullivan completely."

Mr. Booth's reply to this was the very essence of satire. "Madam," said he, in his solemn way, "thank God that the championship still remains with the stage."

One thing is certain, Mr. Booth is more contented in his" mind, and has been since he was forced to leave the stage, than for many years previous. Debt was always an incubus to him, a nightmare he had never been free from since he lost the theater in New York which bore his name. He found himself very deeply involved, owing considerably over half a million dollars,^ In the last ten years he has been able to liquidate every cent of this indebtedness, and he has still a fortune left him of about $350,000. Ilis last dramatic work, two or three seasons with Barrett and Modjeska, enabled him to accomplish the dearest wish of his life to be free from debt. Had his career not been cut short so suddenly the last season would have come near leaving this noted tragedian worth to-day near a million dollars of money. But even had Booth's own collapse not come, the death of Barrett, not long after, would have brought their wonderfully success-, ful venture to an end. It is sad when one reflects upon the affebting speech and touching tribute Mr. Barrett made before the curtain the night Mr. Booth was taken ill. "I cannot think," he eaid, "that Mr. Booth will ever appear upon the stage again." To-day Lawrence Barrett is dead and buried, and Mr. Booth, though by no means hale and hearty, is not by any means a dead man.

The actor lives in a suite of rooms at the Players' club in New York city, an institution he founded himself and to which he gave the building occupied It was in these rooms he recently swooned and injured his head in falling

BOOTH AS HAMLET.

against the furniture. II is sister, Mrs Griswold, took him away, a short distance from the city, for a time, but he is back there now and appears to be none the worse for the aceiaent

Lately Mr. Booth has exhibited mort of a social disposition than he ever did in his more active days. He smokes considerably, more in fact than his doctors care to have himv and he enjoys having callers, particularly if they are old friends. He chats and talks in the pleasantest manner, and, except in the way of physical weakness, betrays few signs of decline.

It cannot be said that Edwin Booth came from a line of actors, though he belongs to a family of that profession. His own father, Junius Brutus Booth, was the first to take to the stage, and he did so only after repeated failures in almost every other .calling. Edwin Booth was born at Booth farm in Maryland, November IS, 1838.

His full name is Edwin Thomas Booth, being called after Edwin Forrest and Thomas Flynn, two of his father's most intimate friends, Forrest always took it to heart that the boy did not call himself Edwin Forrest Booth, the name he insisted had been bestowed

TEKRE HAUTE SATURDA Y" EVENING MAIL, JANUARY ?, 1892.

upon him. But if Booth was not descended from old actor stock, his early association with his father inculcated in him a taste for the stage. It may be said, in fact, that his schooling had something to do with the career he eventually adopted. His education was received almost entirely in Baltimore, he at one time attending the school of a Mr. Kearney, who wrote all his own school books and encouraged dramatic representations among his scholars. It is related that once Edwin and John S.Clark, who, by the way, afterwards became Edwin's brother-in-law, enacted the quarrel scene between Brutus and Cassius, and that Edwin's father entered the school-room unobserved and not only witnessed but enjoyed the performance.

Edwin Booth was the envied of his companions because of his opportunity to go with his father when that actor went on his professional tours. Had they known the eccentric character of the father, however, and the care and watchful attention he required at the hands of his son,' the feeling of envy would have been replaced by one of joy at an escape.

As the father is famed in the character of Richard III. so is the son in that of Hamlet, and his taking up the character was to him almost the same as a command from his sire. While in the city of Sacramento the father and his two sons, Junius Brutus, Jr., tind Edwin were to have each a benefit. The father played Richard III. at his own and Iago to the son named after him. Edwin's followed and the play was "Venice Preserved." The elder Booth was to play Pierre and Edwin had the .character, of Jaffier. Dressed in black, with his naturally sober face, he made a striking picture, and his father seeing him said: "You look like Hamlet Why do y5tt not play Hamlet for your benefit?"

In answer Edwin replied. Carelessly: "If I ever have another I will." Not many months later in San Fraucisco he was given a benefit and for the first time he played the part. The world knows what has been the result. His father never saw him in the character. He died at home while Edwin was in the west.

Edwin Booth has acted abroad and has been always enthusiastically received. He is known to the world as a tragedian, but in his early days, before he had achieved anything like a reputation, he had essayed comedy roles, at one time appearing in a pantomime. It would be of little purpose to inform the public of the long list of characters Edwin Booth has acted in his stage career. His great one has ever been Hamlet, though the critics have praised

BOOTH AS KING LEAB.

him for his work in his many other Shakespearean and histrionic roles, and in his turn he has played all the principal ones.

Edwin Booth was married twice first to Mary McVicker, whom he met first and acted with at her father's theater in Chicago. This marriage proved unhappy and a legal separation took place. Later he married Mary Devlin, whom he met first at Ford's theater in Washington.

The tragic incident of his brother, Wilkes Booth, shooting President Lincoln ever had a depressing effect upon Edwin Booth's life, and it is a matter of history that he has nevei played in the capital since that event.

Mr. Booth never gave politics any at tention. In all his life he cast but one ballot and that was for Abraham Lincoln in 1801. He had thought never to appear again upon the stage after his brother's deed, but after many months he did accept an engagement at the •Winter Garden theater in New York January 1866. Here he was made to regret having broken his resolve, foi outside there arose an angry mob which more than once threatened to shoot him. At another time, in Chicago, at McVicker's theater, was his life endangered. A crank in the audience pulled a pistol and fired at him three times One of the bullets was»'secured by Mr.

Booth and he now wears it, golci mounted, as an amulet. 11 is inscribed, "From Mark Gray to Edwin Booth. April 23, 1879."

It can only be a matter of the deepest regret that such a genius should be losi to the dramatic world. In that world Edwin Booth has indeed been a star Now it has fallen and though not extinguished its light will probably nevei more be shed upon admiring hosts Whatever the future may hold for the tragedian the glory of his past cannot be dimmed. JOHN J. FULLER.

Wonders In Bookbinding:.

Queen Elizabeth used to carry about with her, suspended by a chain of pure gold, a book called "The Golden Manual of Prayer," a dainty volume of three hundred pages, bound in "ham mered virgin gold." One aide of the costly volume gave a representation of "The Judgment of 8blomon," the other the "Brazen Serpent on the Cross in the Desert5* In the jewel hdts.se of the tower of London, the place where the British crown and other royal insignia are kept, there Is a book bound throughout in gold, even to the wires of the hinges. Its clasp is two rubies set at opposite ends of four golden linim On one side there Is a cross of diamonds on the other the English coat of arms set in diamonds, pearls and rubies.

v^rFpf

wu.iiAN IN POLITICS.

TO HEP IS DUE THE FOUNDING OF THE PRIMROSE LEAGUE.

The Wiles of Its Fair Dames—The Famous Organization Caused for the Liberals Much of Their 111 Success in the

Election of 1885.

Now that the influence of women in politics has passed beyond the stage of conjecture and entered within the province of serious experiment in the United States, of peculiar interest is an article in The Forum, written by Millicent Garrett Fawcett, on the development and recognition of the woman element in the British body politic. This development has been brought about gradually by processes opposed to revolutionary and catastrophic changcs. The recognition has been secured, not by aggressive declaration of rights, but by efficient practical service which politicians have learned the fallacy of depreciating or antagonizing. Herein lie the sagacity of the woman leaders, the strongest refutation of the arguments urged by the opposers of woman's fitness for political power, the example for the comparatively undisciplined forces of the suffrage party in this country.

Mrs. Fawcett claims that the participation of women in ^lit-ics is not without precedent in history, for 600 years ago abbesses equally with male ecclesiastical dignitaries were summoned to' sit in parliament. Later the ownership of boroughs returning members to parliament not infrequently devolved on women, as instanced by the story of one Countess Anne, who, in answer to a letter from the secretary of state recommending a candidate for one of her boroughs, replied: "I have been bullied by a usurper I have been neglected by a court, but I will not be dictated to by a subject. Your man shan't stand."

The most valuable historical evidence of the capacity of women for political affairs is to be found in the lives of women sovereigns, Tvhol ia almost every country t]iat admits the right of a woman feO Bucwcd So the crjfwnj haye proved themselves patriotic slateSBleii" "and skillful administrators. Feudal and monarchical systems, founded on an aristocracy of rank^ made a place for women in politics, from which democracy and republicanism, founded on an aristocracy of sex, shuts them out*

Women in England, according to Mrs. Fawcett's conclusion^, .have the present time achieved some ahare of political power by doing political ifcork. Every political organization of meii in the United Kingdom encourages jsimilar organization among women. Despite Mr, Gladstone's present attitude on the suffrage question, in 1879 he said to sromen in a Midlothian speech, "In appeali ig to you to bear your own part in a poli ical crisis like this we are making no ina propriate demand, but are beseeching yoi to fulfill the duties which belong to yc

The next and in [rs. Fawcett's opinion

the first political jf-ganization of women was undertaken he Conservative party when the famous Primrose league was founded in honor LJfd Bcaconsfield. Beginning humbly a small quarters near the Strand, its meniership increased phenomenally, sometiml at the rate of a thousand a day, until iWv it numbers more than a million "kibhts" and "dames" pledged to support he constitution, religion and the empire.\lt occupies palatial offices, controls consumable funds, is respected by the party supports, and its regular annual festivalis chosen by Conservatives as the occasioifor some of their most important declantions of policy. Though the league contals quite as many knights as dames, to the fcivity of tho latter a large proportion of qp success of the organization is due.

To the wiles of tho Pri Aose dames the Liberal party attributed ilnch of its ill success in the election of 18a and charges of corruption through gifts otthreats were made against the ladies, thekgh none of the charges was ever subsfcntiated in court. After abuap the next tr»ute to success is imitation, and in 1886 thVwoman's Liberal federation was founded\xrith Mrs. Gladstone as president, the LibeVl Unionists being organized: in 1888. B1 for the success of the Primrose dames Ajther of these organizations would have Vceived the support of the new party leaded, who frankly declared their position at ing meetings of the organizations, should have preferred to keep you all political activity politics i^re not an's sphere but as the leaders of the site party are encouraging women tow we can't: afford to do without you," \v\th similar, inspiriting remarks, represen the attitude of men at that time.

However, the experience of a few of womau,'s active work in politics h.1 caused/fi'revolution of sentiment. Durin the election of July, 1892, more work wudone by women than ever before in a political contest, under, the stimulus of stirring appeals addressed to them by all the principal patty leaders. Mr. Gladstone gave encouragement to political activity among the women of his party, and frequent acknowledgments were made by the successful candidates of the very substantial degree to which the result was due to the la-cries.—-New York Sun.

Size of Table Napkins.

Fashion has decreed that a napkin shall not be put on the table a second time until it has been washed. Few housekeepers, however, have the means to provide themselves with such a supply of napkins, not to speak of the laundretss to care for them, so the napkin ring is still a necessity in the average household. It is important, however, that the supply be large enough to admit of their being changed two or three times a week. For general use a dinner napkin is to be preferred, unless a separate set of tablecloths and napkins are desired for breakfast. In that case the napkins should be smaller than for dinner.

Fringe is rarely used except on fancy doilies. The plain, square napkin comes in all sizes, from, twenty inches to the size of the dinner napkins, which measure twentyseven inches, and the cost is anywhere from $1.50 to $50 a dozen.—Ladies' Home Journal.

Making Grato Flro.

There is a decided art in making a coal fire in a grate. An expert first clears the grate, then in/defiance of preconceived notions fills it half fall of coal, on which is built a wood fire. The wood ashes on top of the coal, it is said, prevents its rapid consumption, and a fire thus constructed, burning slowly with a moderate Jwat, will last all day.—Exchange.

the neglect of which

would in future irs bo a source of pain and mortification, id the accomplishment of which would se 'e to gild your future years with sweet rt nembrances."

The first politica party to enlist women in their ranks was lio Irish Nationalists, who, when Gladstt suppressed the Land league in 1881, ac linistered their affairs under the name of le Ladies' Land league. During the impri nment of Mr. Parnell agitation was car 3d on by the Ladies' league, but on his. [ease it was dissolved, and he assumed its abilities.

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