Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 23, Number 28, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 31 December 1892 — Page 6
6
THE WOMAN OF FASHION.
Bomo Pertinent "Reflections for Christmas Day.
Pretty Bodlees to Engage Oar Attention —Far In Its New Shape* and Forma— Seal StM
the
Favorite—Even
ing (iamu Again.
I"
[coPTBicnT, i832-1
Surely we wouldn't think of fashIons on fiueh a day as this. Why,'it's Christmas, the day we forget ourselves and think of others! We hiiven't any time to bother with styles and petty differences of fashion and trifling1 ad vance on the modes of a month ago.
No? Well, then, let me tell you of what a thoughtful parent has purchased for his pretty daughter. That will interest you, I know. It is one of the prettiest bodices you ever saw, and she is going to wear it to-night at the family gathering—just to please him, you know. It is a Josephine bodice, made of peau do soie, in a deep rich red draped softly across the front with rose* oolored mousseline de soie, caught up
FUB AND VELVET.
by a big cameo. Then there is a very high belt of the same cameos, and
the moUNseline. Her hair is so very dark and her skin so purely olive that she is delighted with the thought
Of
the
result. Now, have I succeeded in getting you interested, and cannot I persuade you to listen for a little space whpe I discourse \ipon soveral more bodices almost as pretty as the one.this favorite daughter will wear?
Hearken, then, to this description of ono in mauve velvet, close-fitting and with a Bolero formed above by gold and mauve embroidery, from which falls a deep flounce of lace, long in the front, gradually shortening over the hips and at the back until it is caught up with a chou of ribbon and long streamers. In the front, also, there are clwvx where tho lace and embroidery join. The short sleeves are full lace flounces falling beneath embroidered epaulots.
Another one with loosely falling lace, effect is of serpent-green silk, shot with rose. The low cut corsage is.bordered with pink feather trimming shading off Into green, and from this tho lace flouncing falls. This timo it is at the. back that tho lace hangs long into a deep si-.1 ndor point. Butterflies of lace are poised on the shoulders.
Two more are there—one of plnkbengaline, the other of yellow brocade. The bengaline has a dull pink feather trimming and steel passementerie bands for adornment the yellow brocade has flouncing of white chiffon across tho pointed bodice, and a high crash belt of the brocade.
But there's another subject we may discuss even on Christmas day* and that is fur. It's a warm, comfortable subject, and seems to suit the glowing fire and fatuity gathering, particularly that most comfortable and popular .form of it—seal. Seal still reigns queen of all furs no other has conquered it, although its overthrow has often been prophesied and threatened.
But though it is still supremo it has assumed a new guise. Wo see it no longer iu severity of form, in straight, plain garment almost devoid of shape. It has dropped the old conservatism
IN PRAL AND RUSSIAN PA BIX.
and taken unt- itself many new no tiona. We see it now plaited and gathered In many fanciful ways, in long Wntteau folds, In gathered capes, in ahoFVplaited collars, ami the effect is, not so ungraceful as ouo might suppose, for the fur easily adapts itself to the change and appears none the worse for it, either.
It
looks
feprettio perhaps in the
Aong military cape, facing- free from the collar, .with other1 fur, guneraity Russian wtb'e or, perhaps, with a close tow of Hassan tails -laid ground on the not hanging be? low it.
In the short fur ferments—the UtUe capes and the Eton and Bolero jackets
v-'¥-
—however, other fqr Is just as popular. One always finds the mink, and there are also the gray krimmer, the Persian iamb or the moire Persian. Of course, the military cape is the latest, and-often forme the only outer garment, even on cold days. But it is very deceptive, and while it looks warm, and protecting, hanging far below the hips, the wind has a quiet way of working up under it and sending little chills through the person who was rash enough to (Soma out so clad.
1
Much more sensible are the small sleeveless fur jackets over the cloth coats. These are Etxfo, generally, of round cut. Bolero, reaching to the waist line, or still shorter.
But possibly we're disposed to be more economical and deny ourselves one of the beautiful fur garments, which cost anywhere from $100 to $1,000, or even more, for one can easily pay $1,500 for a coat in that most expensive fur, Russian sable. But if we are disposed to practice enonomy we shall content ourselves with fur in trimming only, either on dress, cloak or hat. For dresses the narrower it is the better, when it appears in bands. Foi girdles it may be broader, and sleeves it is allowed still more freedom. A cloth dress looks very handsome with such an addition of fur, and possibly a sleeveless jacket as well.
Then there are the fur collars, running, down into a long point in front, even as, far as the belt or the high rolling collars, with short plaited flounces added or the Head and tail boss. These last appear' very, modest, and yet I saw one the other day of Russian sable marked twenty-five dollars.
Muffs area little
one
catching up each short sleeve puff
of
and the round ones are still popular.
One sees plenty of the flat, fancy ones
in velvet and fur, but there is no present danger of their taking the round muff's place. The most convenient muff is ono that has a tiny spring concealed at the top, which flies open when pressed and reveals a deep, satin-lined pocket, so convenient to hold handkerchief, purse, card case, and a dozen other things women carry with them, pocket or no pocket.
But the fur has another vocation. 14 is sometimes content to hide itself beneath beautiful brocade, or pale-colored cloth evening cloaks. The white Mongolian is often found here, and only peeps out a little way at the edge.
That's the way I saw it in a beautiful military cape, worn by a most magnificent woman, tall and queenly, with wonderful black hair. The cape was of black velvet, full
MAj
1
three-quartSei
length, and lined and bordered down the front with pure white ermine. The
loweredgewasborderedImthwIdewMtoj
passementerie. It loolred more start- „As you
|ing, possibly, because it fell over a
NEW WINTER MANTLE.
white satin gown that-had a black vol' vet bodice. Tho bodice was close fitting and low cut, "and narrow# off at the sides into straight bands that fell over the skirt almost to the feet. The white fringe that edged them brought tho trimming down to the bottom of the dress, the fringe falling over white chiffon cascades that were looped on the skirt beneath.
The regal woman talked to another, but the second was more simply gowned. Her toilet cost no less, I fe61 sure it only appeared simpler, less ostentatious, because it was pure, Empire, in pale gold, w»ith gold embroideries and over, a lovely lace drapery in white, embroidered in innumerable pale colors, hung -loosely, back and front, draped just enough to make it fall softly. The girl looked beautiful she, too, was dark and the veil floated away, from the gold beneath whenever a tiny breeze came in from the open window where the two stood.
As I walked the other day through a most fashionable establishment, I wondered what the crowd of women at the end were doing. There seemed to be more excitement thaft was usual in that great place. So 1/pushed my way through and discovered that they were buying, as fast as they could, dress lengths of the loveliest fine French cambric, in dainty colors. It didn't matter that the day was a bitterly cold one all that the women knew then was that those goods were to be had at a wonderful bargain, and that this was the time to get them.
And after watching them for some time, and listening while they discussed the designs thai would probably be fashionable next summer, I felt so interested and so sympathetic that I bought ono myself.
EVA A. SCSOBKBT.
A Well-Meant Sttjcgeetton*
Charlie—X asked Miss Manley to be coy wife, and she declined. Prunella—Ask her to be your husband, and see what she says.—Truth.
Th*lr OfftiMttoa.
Be—Where did they go when they eloped? She—Back home. They had only capferes in their pockets.
Botmes—By the fray. Wander, where do you live cow? Wander—I don't I board.—Life.
mm Christmas Day Is Celebrated erywiaere Nowadays.
[CO WRIGHT, 1892.1
EN GBEAT BRITAIN*.
"Christmas in England has not changed of late or grown in its observance," said Mr. Fraser.^ "It couldn't very well, for the British have always been famous at yule-tide merry making. Of course the lord of misrule and his twelve-day court have gone, for
bigger this year, Englishmen are now too busy, though
QOt
CHRISTMAS IN THE FATHERLAND.
Herr Ferdinand Ritschl, vice consul
of Germany at New York, has a broad
... and good-humored face, which grew an
toei iroad^ when Iaphted myer.
the
fERRE HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING MATE
THE WORLD OYEli.
Ev-
How the Nations Keep It—English, German, French, Italian, Bauiu and Bnl||f!garlan—In Partiboa Infldellum— W^g'Faris Dolls In the Far East.*
,-p| J&-1
gig
Ifever did I feel so like a messenger of mercy and a herald ofeghappy Vhoughts. £&
Wherever I went it "was the same. Men with preoccupied faces turned from their business to hear but a sentence before they broke into a broad grin ai^fl called to each other across the desks, and others came up to see what twas all about
At the British consulate, for instance, a. sick seaman, an irate doctor and a disgusted clerk were having a triangular duel of words when I entered, but when I spoke the clerk looked relieved, the doctor and the seaman ambled off together, while I was shown into an inner room where sat Consul Gilbert Fraser, for and his blonde-bearded face lighted up
(with
a smile, too.
For it was of Christmas 1 spoke", and Its observance in many lands varied, but always with a core of kindliness and home-feeling running through
it*.
busy as you Americans, to give
up much
time."
•AThen you think we do work harder?" "Oh, dear me! yes twice as hard.
One of the greatest things about the English Christmas is the way in which It has been carried round the world— yew and holly, mistletoe and bay, snapdragon, plum podding and all—by English people. In Australia, New Zealand, or Madras, in spite of the burning heat, you will find the English Christmas. Shiploads of holly and mistletoe go out to the far colonies. Between America and Great Britain flow two unending streams of holiday gifts at this season of the year. With this we have,.of course, no official connection, but /The numberless queries we get about rates* of duty and money orders tell the story."
German Christ-
mas in America," he said, "so it is at home. On Christmas eve the tree is decked and lighted and everybody is at home.. There is the first holiday and the second, for December 20 is a holiday, too, and the tree is kept decked until New Year's day. Your Santa Claus is our Ivriss Ivringle, you know. Oh, the German Christmas has gone round the world and is fast conquering this country. America is learning Christmas-from its German citizens." "The tree is universal, then, in Germany?" "Yes, the Spruce and the cedar.", "Und tannenbaum auch?" "Yes, the tannenbaum (hemlock), too that sounds good. Hundreds of thousands of young evergreens from the schwarzwald and from local forests are used every year."
CHRISTMAS IN FRANCE.
M*. Maxime Durand, at the Frehch consulate, assured me that France has a Christmas, too, of a somewhat different pattern—rather a church than a home festival, and without so much evergreen mixed up in it. "And do the children hang up their stockings for Santa to fill?" "No, not thfir stockings, but their boots or shoes. And not at Christmas, but at New Year's, which is the day sacred to gift-giving, and not for Santa Claus, for we have nothing akin to him unless it be our Pere Noel. French children are rather too rational to care for such mystifications. But they appreciate the gifts and the honie visits just as well without."
IN SCANDINAVIA.
Mr. Christopher Raun sat in his office at the consulate of Sweden afid Norway puzzling over I don't know what astute problem when the mental conception of a Scandinavian yule-tide was substituted, and he straightway became eloquent and drew me an entrancing picture of a festival around the boughs of the big evergreen and of pretty girls from the saeters hard by, with long flaxen braids hanging down their backs, who dance all night with Axel, of Christiana, or Asmund, just back from Minnesota, with a pocket full Of dollars. There is plenty of snow on roof and field, and the birds have scant provender, So, if it be a farm or hamlet— not-in the city of course—up goes plump Johann and fixes a sheaf of wheat upon the ridge of the roof for all the wandering ones of the air to feast at and make merry, too, while the rafters ring with the dance and the laughter below.
CHRISTMAS IN EASTERN EUROPE.
At Araautkeui, at the narrow entrance to the Black sea, every year the water is blessed by a priest in presence of as many Greeks, Bulgarians and Russians as can be present. After the blessing the priest flings his large, silver crucifix into the river. Strong swimmers plunge Into the current amid the ice and snow, and the one who secures the crucifix is held fortunate above all his fellows. -Vj
CHRISTMAS tS SOtTTH
Consul Gustave H, Gos&ler, of Brazil, told me, when I plumped the question squarely at him, that in all the liatinAtnpriran countries Christinas is mainly observed as a religious or saints' day merely- "There is, however," he said, "a large ari& growing number of people who have traveled and seed Christmas days in America or northern Europe, or who have read of them in books, who repivjdaee the festival faithfully, usually after the German plan* with loaded, lighted tree and the hanging of stock
mm.
ings. But they are tho minority the wealthy people must have something different from the rest." His'.^'.CHRISTMAS IN ITALY.
Sig. Cesare Poma, vice-consul of Italy, is an extremely handsome gentleman, courteous and kindly, who has some difficulty in managing our harsh Saxon consonants. The Italians, he assured me, have scarcely anything corresponding to our Christmas celebrations, with gifts and the like. "Of course," said het "there Is more or less giving of gifts, but not especially at Christmas. The child leaves his shoe on fa cheminne—the mantel, you call it, and it is the good child, the Cambino Jesu, who fills it, not St. Nicholas."
IN PARTIRtJS INFIDELIUM.
Rev. C. H. Daniels, district secretary of the American board of commissioners of foreign missions, said:, "Christmas is universally celebrated at the missions in China, Japan, India and elsewhere, taking precisely the shape that it has with us, a mingled tone of religion and home cheer. It is even introduced into family life, though, of course, to a very slight extent as yet. A great many presents of toys, dolls, books and the like are sent from this country, so that at the same time that French" children are playing with Japanese dolls, Japanese children may be gazing in speechless wonder at the kind that grows in Paris."'
IN THE FIJI ISLANDS.
"Do they have any Christmas in the Fiji islands?" I asked Mr. William Churchill, the author of "A Princciss of Fiji," one of the books of the season. "Yes, indeed," replied Mr. Churchill, "and very much of a Christmas. You know the islands arc Methodist now, dismally Methodist. Well, when midnight comes in a Fijian village—i-and it isn't a matter of
guesswork,
And.thus it is seen how Christmas encircles quite the whole world this day, and hundreds of millions join in ite simple observance. Is any other holiday so universal. OWEN LANGDON.
DO NOT CONFLICT.
Baseball and Football Will Never Crowd Each Other.
The armored knights of the gridiron field have had their day. The reign of the baseball stretches over half the year, but one-sixth is all that the football kickers ask. With Thanksgiving the last of the great college battles ended, but there are enthusiasts who keep up the sport all winter long, despite the fact that the mercury hugs the bulb in vain efforts to get down out of the cold. There have been some screeds written in which the assertion has been thoughtlessly made that football was supplanting baseball and was likely to become the national game. The truth is the sports do not conflict. One.is essentially a sport that thrives in sunshine and warm weather, while the other is the chief of autumn and winter pastimes. It would be misery to play football with the temperature at summer heat. The exertion might, indeed, prove dangerous to the players. If a kind Providence bars out the scourge next year the pessimists who have been shedding crocodile tear over the decay of the diamond /—blind to the truth and refasing to see the natural causes for the trouble—will be permitted to hang their harps on the willow trees and cease their mournful dirges, which cause only the ignorant to wonder at the whyfore of tUcir sad, sad lay.—Sporting Life. -•SK1jedffc Waxem'* Prowrbi/
Nine men out of every ten think they could be statesmen. 'Tain't necessary to ask about a man's moral character when you are looking fer a hand in the pollitikle feeld.
Money is what givs sparkle to campanes. Pollitishans consider buyin' a vote an investment and not a crime.
Candidates air seldom jumped on when they air down. Penshuns pays pollitishans. 'Twouldent be so bad, mebbe, ef a man could git a house and lot or a farm fer his vote.
It's a mighty pore sort ov a feller sitsen we've got that won't learn to rede and rite.—Detroit Free Press.
Fort one# of Stage CeicbiitlM.
Jerome H. Eddy attempts to prove that there may be* something besides fame in store for successful actors and actresses by the following statistics: Among the richest of American actors unrf actresses are Edwin Booth, worth $73O»O00? Joseph Jefferson, $1,000,000-, Stuart Robsoo, $400,900 W. II. Crane, $400,000 Denroac Thompson, $5130,000 Joseph Murphy, $300,003: Roland Reed, $150,000 Oliver Byron, *150,000 Edwin tlarrigan, $100,000 Clara Morris, $350,000 Fanny Davenport, $200,000 Lotta, 9500,000 Maggie Mitchell, 1350,000, and
fflK
either,
when it comes, for then the great Southern Cross constellation stands poised upright in the he: v«ns earlier or later it leans to right
or
left—when
midnight cotn^s, on Christmas eve, the girls gathered at one side of the long village green raise a song of joy. Perhaps it is this, which was written by a uative and set to a native melody: 'Kylcoya to magu ..
Kolnu Sa luvena Sa levo
oti
no an dra
ICo Jisu no Crlsaito.'
"Which means, litei-ally: 'He is my Father, I his son. His blood was spilt all out-*Jesus the Christ.' "Then from the other side of the green the boys taker, the antistrophe, and last of all the old men in the middle of the green roll, in a thundering bass. The chief's house stands at one end of the sylvan theater, the church, or missionary house, at the other. "There 4s universal gift giving. If the law didn't forbid it, they would give iiv,'ay everything they possess. So they are legally limited to trifles, and of these everybody gets one from everybody else, if it is no more than a-cocoa-nut with the husk cut in fanciful patterns." "And in Samoa?" "I don't know much about Samoa," said -Mr, Churchill. "Robert Louis Stevenson and I divided the South Pacjflc^ for literary purposes and Samoa came in his half."
CAKING FOE APPAREL
A WOMAN TELLS HOW SHE KEEPS HER GARMENTS FRESH. A \i»
This Fair Creature Says That It Is the Abuse, Not the Use, of Clothes That Slakes Them Look Shabby—A Scheme
That Demands Constant Care. n,
"There is no special secret," remarked the well dressed woman, softly unrolling a bit of tulle across her knees. "I have simply learned the art of taking care of my clothes, and estimate that I save hundreds of dollars thereby every year." "The precise knowledge we are seeking!" exclaimed the hostess. "And now do, like a sweet soul, tell us all about it." "Why, a friend of mine, a Parisier.no, taught me years ago in France/' replied the woman in the good gown. "She showed me a thousand and one devices for preserving the crisp freshness of things, and now, whenever I am complimented upon looking particularly smart, I always waft her a silent blessing across the seas." "Go on," urged the group encouragingly as a second round of tea was poured. "Well, in the first place she broke me of that ugly, extravagant habit women have of flinging clothes about on chairs and beds And leaving them there to get crumpled and stringy. The instant take a heavy dress off I shake the skirt lightly, pass a brush through its silk ruffles, and remove every particle of dust from both material and trimmings. It is then slipped over a wire rack to prevent limpness in hanging, a big violet satchet is suspended inside, and the whole enveloped in a long, loose, white cotton bag. That draws up with strings and keeps it clean, crisp and perfumed for future use. "The waists of my frocks," continued the thrifty narrator, "arc never hungunderony circumstances. I have roomy pasteboard boxes for every one of them, lined with cotton batting that has been liberally sprinkled with sachet powder and incased in pink or blue muslin. A slip pasted on the end shows me which bodice is in the box, and consequently there is never the least confusion. After brushing a waist I lay it at full length, pull out its bows, pass the lace through my fingers, and smooth every inch of ribbon. Next I proceed to stuff the sleeves and shoulders with tissue paper, crushed lightly and thrust in to hold the garment in shape. Unless you have tried this scheme you have no idea how it preserves the fine lines and freshness of basque or jacket. Another important rule I observe is never to put a bodice away with a tarnished neck ruche or stained shields. One is always less hurried when disrobing than dressing, and it is impossible to infuse clothing with that delicious subtle fragrance every woman covets unless she is fastidiously dainty in these details. After evei'y two or three wearings I wash my shields in warm water, clouded with ammonia, dry them in the sun, and they hist for years. "I appreciate how much trouble it demands," added the well dressed woman, "but it is all done in those odd minutes that would otherwise be lost. If you once acquire the habit of caring for your clothes such attention becomes second nature. For example, I never take off a pair of boots without immediately lacing or buttoning them on their trees and rub'bingthem thoroughly with a soft flannel cloth. Treated thus shoes will wear six months longer than ordinarily and are always shapely and brightly polished. Then I use cast off evening gloves to protect the toes of my patent leathers. By cutting off the fingers and slipping the suede up over the foot o£ tho shoes, they are protected from sudden changes of temperature and dust, both'of which cause them to crack badly. French women preserve tin forms of their slippers by binding a strip of whalebone to lit in heels and toes and spring in the center—an easy and inexpensive contrivance, and when used the slipper never loses its narrowness of outline. "Ofcoxxrsel spend more time over my hatsand bonnets than all tho rest of UJ.V things put together. Between wearings each one sits in its special stand in my armier.Sjpright wooden pegs wifc'i flat, flaring tops, that hold them firmly and are not so apt to allow crushing as when they are kept in boxes. Immediately one is taken off I dust with a soft velvet brush, smarten tho trimmings between my fingers straighten and roll the strings in smooth, tight wads, so when unpinned again they are fresh and free of wrinkles. It is a good plan to hold a bonnet near the fire for an instant before putting away, as dampness is the enemy of velvet, flowers or feathers, and a little heat is preservative of such materials. ..With paste and scissors I make huge tissue paper caps to sit over my hats that are big enough not to touch them and yet exclude the dust. "You all know what an alarming item of expense these are," continued the instructor, holding up the fragments of tulle in her bands. "Well, I find that mine last weeks and even months by sewing instead of pinning them. I gather a few stitches in the middle of the upper edge and also the two ends, so that they fit easily and (seldom tear. When not in actual use they are carefully straightened and folded, and kept in, a flat silken case perfumed with violets. As for gloves, I have been horrified this afternoon to watch you womeu ruin-your costly gants de suede by jerking them off by the finger tips and throwing them aside in crumpled balls while you drank your tea. A good glove is the only sort worth buying, and then it certainly deserves a little care. It is just as easy to remove by slipping the thumb out and peeling from the fingers wrong side out. Thus any possible perspiration is dissipated, and they are never stiff, stretched or dragged. "While talking to you I have pulled the fingers of mine back into place, smoothed out the creases, folded the thumb over and they are ready now to be laid into my long glovebox for future service. I assure you it is the abuse, not the use of things, that gives them a shabby look. Clothes collect more dust and wrinkles in neglected idleness than when they are worn, and I never see a dowdily dressed woman but I long to give her a few of the easy, practical lessons my Parisian fcriend gave me."—New York Sun.
A Tribute to Wcman'i Carefnlse**. "If thee is one thing we dread," said.a pnionrman in a large establishment devoted exclusively to men's and boys' wearing apparel, "it is a woman who comes in to choose a suit or overcoat for her husband. Of course the husband is along, but he hasn't a word to say. She select# everything, and then finds faalt with trifles that would utterly escape his eyes. She sees a little spot on a button* she notices that the lap at the back is sot exactly straight, and that seams perhaps gap a little too widely. When the tailor comes to make the needed alterations she bosses the job as she would with a dollar a day dressmaker, until the wonder is he doesn't throw the chalk in her face and leave her to fix it hssi&elt Excuse me when I see a woman coming I usually manage to be very busy elswhere,"—Cincinnati Enquirer. vrr \TV
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