Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 23, Number 27, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 24 December 1892 — Page 6

COLD CHRISTMAS FACTS.

Adyanta&es and Disadvantages of Christmas Giving.

Happens to Be Married.

ICOPTRIOHT. 1898.1

I dare to say it in" the face of all ortho-' dox tradition, knowing that scores of Christmas-haunted people will rise up and stand beside me. May the departed spirit of dead Yule Tides, when only love gifts dropped from Kris Kringle's pack, forgive a multitude of persons "when they cry: "Down with our commercial Christmas." We are the victims of a tyrant and he makes life miserable.

It is, alas, too true that, for the most of us—for those women who live in the Tjig towns and boast a calling list, and

rr 18 JTECEBHAHV THAT, XMA8 SHOULD MKKT HIS EXPECTATIONS.

for men who are entertained in the homes of married society women— Christmas is the day of bankruptcy, old debts paid and now debts incurred.

We give because everybody else gives and we dp not feign to put a bit of heart into our giving. Christmas means the suclden necessity of bestowing unnecessary gifts.

The shops are filled with tired-faced women, who rush about obeying the mysterious behest of some imp of etiquette, who says that acquaintances, even into the seventh remove, shall be remembered (and how unpleasantly) at Christmas. What are the rules of giving? jWho should or can be, with impunity, omitted from the list? And how is an escape and a return to first principles of giving, which are regulated by heart, not head, possible? A. bevy of questions like these troop along-* eide as one hears the great query of the! week before Christmas: "Well, won'ti you lie glad when it's over?"

The answers are varied as the kindsj of women who give them, but all agree that Christmas, as wo know it, is a formality.

Each one of us has, perhaps, five friends to whom it is a keen delight to give, but wo have fifteen or twenty other "friends" who must, as a sop to the Christmas Cerberus, give us something •we don't want to be returned by the pift of something else they had a little father be without.

That is because in our hurry we are tactless and the perfunctory gift really hurts the recipient. Sometimes we are Absolutely mercenary and the liveliest (trouble follows a grasping Christmas victim. There is a true story which so (absolutely typifies the too pervading jspirit of the day that it must be quoted. A man and his wife had argued for months over the purchase of some cur-

URIC TKTX8 HIM THE I.ENQTH OF

The Absolutely »ces*ary Lut—Wh»t Man May Glvean Unmarried Woman —What He May Give 0er If She

HKIl

XHAB LIST.

ftains. His was man's will, but hers jwas woman's way, which bent his will, bn Christmas morning the curtains lay "beneath a slip of paper, bearing the fclinehing clause: "To my husband,with his wife's lore."

Now Year's morning dawned upon a ibulkv package bearing the legend: "To my wife, hoping they may prove (•s useful as ornamental." Oh, horrors! ft1 he barbarian had given her a very large and serviceable pair of hunting ileggins. The Insult was too great, and Hnow, I believe, the matter has gone to the courts, where across bill is entered ton the grounds of cruelty and abuse.

This may be irrelevant because tt occurred in the bosom of a family and we have to do only with etiquette of acquaintanceship gifts. But doesn't It, as the moralists say, show us "whither wc are drifting?" "I dare not assort," said a society .woman who Introduced her daughter to Now York this fall, "that my jneeessary list can be cut down. Christmas giving Is as rigorous a convention as that I shall return roy calls or discharge my social debts. Here are those to whom I must give—my hoafcand and children, the only unalloyed pleasure of the day my servants, who would leave if I did not give them dresses of the finest quality each and every one of my relatives, sisters, brothers, sisters-in-law. brothers-in-law and my cousins. Then come the dosent of town friends who last year gave me Christmas presents, which I failed to return at any of the intervening holidays. These bear as plainly as if it had been written on the card. 'Equal values are expected.* Lastly! reckon gifts to people whom I have visited and whose hospitality I can't at once return, and to church charities. "Believe me, Christmas and the manner in which one meets it largely determines social prestigo. "A well-bred giver, of coarse, cloaks the almost bu&iness-hkc method of his giving by & dainty presentatioa. The card Is quite enough to Inclose, though a personal note Is ft pretty fine**. -How can one escapc thankless givin«t

cannot. Perhaps other women whs

girl

placed

office and my name would not be men-1 tioned The gift would probably be pair of vases or a basket for bonbons, ostensibly mine, you see.

A woman's gflft to me may be correctly returned at Easter—never at New Years, because the effort would be too palpable. The next Christmas will do, but my advice is not to put it off. If you hadn't courage to proclaim against your holiday slavery, perform all possible tasks at another time, and so wring what pleasure you may by not giving Christmas presents

There is abetter way if we will listen to the defiant advice of a queen of comio opera. "Let me tell you as emphatically as I may," said she, "that I speak from a Bohemian point of view. Therefore I enjoy my Christmas. It is the only way to get the pleasure from it and from' life as well. I do not submit to the forms to which other women openly submit and secretly defy.

SHE HOPES MAMMA.

$100

What a man may give a woman depends entirely on their relations—not to mamma and papa, but their relations of bubt velvet and lack.

WILL

LET

HER

KEEP

1US GIFT.

to each other. If they are in society mamma and papa have a good deal more to do with it, and a few posies are apparently the only result. Women who, like men, belong in a sense to the public, accept the public tributes without a question. I am sure I have never sent a Christmas gift back to the donor. Jewels or a box of bonbdns, I take them all and write a note of thanks. Sometimes I invite the givers to dine with me. Your society women dare not do that as acknowledgment for anything except flowers. Am I bitter? 1 do not mean to be. But tell the people I know nothing about Christmas etiquette. I am proud to say I am a •Bohemian."

Who dare follow Miss Tempest? Mrs. Frank Leslie has compromised the matter. "I have a necessary list of those whom I love and those to whom I owe 'a last year's gift. I'm parsimonious, I admit, in giving when I must. Usually 'l make it Christmas cards which I have myself received. All their excuse for 'being is that they can be passed along suntil they are worn out. The custom is an abominable English one, but I .can forgive it unless some one writes a tender effusion and links our initials across the card he sends. There its

6XFT IB THE PRICE OF THU

HONOR.

occupation is gone and my serves cry out. "I once entertained a friend of my husband's. Be was almost a total stranger to me, but at Christmas I received a beautiful set of mantel ornaments from him, entirely in my own name, too. My husband was totally ignored My Christmases are my very happiest days when I don't "orphan my iown soul' by putting my neck beneath 'the yoke of vwty ultra edicts."

Erwy

Sis Own W**taerwemaj».

"How do yon keep your collars so bright and clean these dusty days?" "They're made of celluloid, and I pol-

ish them up with tooth powder twice a

day."—Judge. Kecpta* Bb WettS. Mr. Nordscid (whose calls are interminable)—I am going to live on your side of the dty lor the season.

Miss Southplata—So I perceive.—CMcftffo News Record.

fHE WOMAN.OF FASHION#

have less at stake may do it by a simple,,^ refusal to be burdened so. But imagins, ijf ovi-t. v^aw what would result upon my announce What the Popular Skirt Lodkm ment that no gifts would be received or* la*©, Jjftfjgg returned! My acquaintances

A. Qoalqt Afternoon Gown and a Deeir-

desert me, thinking fortune had failed, and 1 should be mortally uneasy over debts not liquidated. "What may a man give a girl to whom he is not engaged? No more or less than at any other t%e of course. iooptbxghx, 1888.1 Flowers, one hundred lollars worth of The skirt is the all-absorbing-topic of them if he chooses, and perhaps a the day. No one can make up her, book, though many mothers draw the mind whether she will have a newline at flowers. It seems to me that a fashioned bell, a round skirt a skirt

able Otse—BocUoes That May B« ~p§i Hade at Home—Flower* BeQ&k stored to Fayj

under as lasting obligations gating well at the edge or a gathered to a man when she receives from him pUirt.. And those that have skirts of' $100 in flowers as though she accepted last year, too good to throw away, $100 in jewels, bat it is not so. A man which they are trying to make over into who has dined at my house feels bound something more modern, are in despair to return the hospitality by a Christ- jOT last year's bell refuses to be re-, mas gift. Oftenest it will be silver for modeled. Alas! there isn't enough of my table, or handsome bric-a-brac for around the hips there is no way that my drawing-room. we can add the necessary fullness. In "It is just faintly better form to in- this age of growing hips the old bell elude my husband's name, though the flndn no place, and must either be worn gift is ostensibly for me. If the man bravely as it is, Or else be discarded forwas first an acquaintance of my hus- ever. The now skirts have even a little band, and had met me but once or twice, fullness in the front, and considerable he would send the gift to my husband's

OTer

the hips and in the back. Anyone

that has studied the ai4 of dressing well knows that a line in this important garment will often make or mar a costume. An ungraceful fold will effectually spoil the whole therefore watch your skirts, be sure they lit, be sure they hang well, and above all be sure their length is uniform. So many women wear gowns of uneven length, and nothing is more positively displeasing to the artistic eye than a jerk here or a sudden drop there, where all should be harmonious, graceful slope.

Even in these days of outre and startling combination it is possible to be artistic. Woman

iB.

allowed more

freedom in this regard than man, it would seem, for she may depart considerably from the laws laid down by the great modistes and still not incur their disapproval. She may select what she will from the many prevailing fashions and combine them to suit herself in a quieter, less obtrusive way, and the result will be at once original and pleasing. Strange to say, immediately a thing goes out of style it becomes distasteful to us, and we instinctively turn away from it, but no sooner does anew mode appear than we give it all our admiration, affection and regard, no matter how scornfully we may have repudiated it a few years ago, when its glory faded before that of the new star which arose. For a striking illustration of thiw truth, turn to the present unique and wonderful fashions.

But no matter what we thought of them last year or the year before, we welcome them now, and take them all without a word of questioning. For instance, what would you have thought last year of such a dress as this?— vigogne, pale-colored, falling over a black velvet skirt. The vigogne flares well, is embroidered with jet all around, and is cut up in great round scallops at the edge. Extraordinary breadth of shoulder is formed by cream lace flouncing falling over immense puffed sleeves the flouncing meets in a point at the waist, and inside it run black velvet revere up even to the back of the collar, where they meet. Inside the revers a pretty lace fichu is modestly crossed, and caught with an old-fashioned brooch, and outside the revers falls a short fur boa. The flare at the shoulders and the flare at the bottom of the

THE GOWH OF MAST OOLOB8. ||p

skirt are brought ont more strongly by the close clasping velvet belt. Quaint? Tea, it is indeed. And pretty? I think aa Do not you?

How's a tasteful visiting gown if you are in need of one- Dull gray cheviot Is the material for the ifront part of the

the

bodiee

Itolk^skirt snd

of a rich red brown

•hade. The corsage is plaited in *ront into a point, and has a velvet flounce in big waves falling over eaeb shoulder, wad then continuing down the bodice, widening out as it descends, and tilling after it passes the belt in kmg points over the skirt. At the fool

af the skirt there are two bias tolas ol the same dark velvet. The sleeves are very pretty, first plaited down frora the shoulder quite flatly, and at the ellww starting out in great loose puffs, which are immediately drawn in again, however, beneath tight cuffs. Jg|

Don't you want to make a lovely'evening bodice all yourself, one that you can wear with plain skirts? Well, then, take a piece of fine guipure lace, and make a deep square yoke for both the back and the front of your bodice. Then take delicately colored chiffon, the shade your complexion is pleased with, of course, and full it on to your yoke, leaving a big heading standing up. Then gather the fullness together once more at the belt. Make your sleeves very short, just big puffs, and your bodice is done. It will give you an infantile, bewitching appearance, it is so exceedingly babyish. Or, if you have a bodice that needs freshioning, make a chiffon cape to slip over it. The cape doesn't fasten at the neck, but slips down and fastens at the top of the low corsage. These are very soft and pretty and quite inexpensive.

Oh, such beautiful dresses I have been gazing at of late. They're all coming out very soon, and I've b«-"n permitted a peep at them. Society is in full swing, and every great dressmaker is turning out some exquisite gowns. They must never offend by making two alike, and it is no easy task to create for so large a number of exacting women. But it looks as though they would not fail. I had not the slightest doubt of their success, as I touched with almost reverent fingers those exquisite garments.

There was one of pink gauze, lightly embroidered with silk dots. The skirt was draped to some little extent, and bordered at the foot with two broad bands of roses, separated by a fine plaiting of pink chiffon. The bodice was the pretty part of it, however, for ov6r a plaiting of chiffon which formed a berthe were laid two thick rows of the same pink roses. One lay right against the low-cut neck, the other a little below, but curving up on each side, finally touched the upper one on the shoulder, so that the plaiting could fall loosely. Then over the roses, starting at the top band and running down to the waist, were two full rolls of plain chiffon, which widened as they fell, and eventually disappeared under the arms, melting into the fullness of the waist itself. This little corselet was the chief charm of the dress, and added the youthful appearance necessary, for a very yountj gir-l was to wear it. 1

Blossoms seem to( grow in-popularity on both gowns and bonnets. We discarded them for a little* while at the beginning of the season, but have dis covered that there is nothing that con

fob a vkby yousg girl.

replace them. The lovely petals have away of slipping with sweet grace into just the right spot. We need never arrange them, as we must do with ribbon or lace or velvet they simply fall into their plaecs of their own accord. Sc that all of the latest evening hats and a great many others, too, for dress occasions, are plentifully adorned with blossoms. Velvet ones, of course, art the favorites, for their colorings are so rich, and the petals are so soft and natural.

But I must finish about my dresses. The next one that excited my admiration was of palest green silk, white chiffon, white velvet ribbon and pale green ribbon black lace, black velvet and jet, and all these various materials wer/ combined in most pleasing fashion. The pale green silk predominated, of course. The black lace was observe*' in three little flounces at the feet, in deep flounces at the shoulder puffs, and in another deep flounce around the decollete corsage. The white chiffon formed a ruche a:bove the black ruffler on the skirt, a finely gathered bodic* and big sleeve-puffs. The jet united the white puffs and the lace sleeve-raffles headed the full slanting black velvet ceiniure that started tsnder the right arm and ended at the waist linf on the left, and hung in deep fringe on the lower edge of the same eeinture. The white ribbon joined the green ribbon, and together they stood out in a pmnll bow on each shoulder, in another on the right arm, in still one more on the rigfet side of the bodice, and finally in one of great length at the left side, falling from the velvet. Is your imagination equal to the task of adjusting these details and constructing a beautiful gown therefrom? If not, gaze upon the pictured whole.

One more gown, and—as the minister says, and as the people often hear with a sigh of relief—I am done. ^,

This is one for a stately matronj and is made of velvet of rich ruby hue. The gown, of princesse cut, opens wide tc admit a black lace front, cut very low, and filled in above by a fichu of rare, creamy lace. Little puffs of the same lace are on the shoulders. The full sleeves are caught in twice by plain bands, wad then allowed to fall freely. A loose gauze belt ha front disappears beneath the ruby velvet at the sides. Tiny headings of gold ran down the sides of the velvet and afnli ruche of black gauze covers the neck.

ETA A. SCHUBKKT.

HEROISM OF WOMEN.

-IF

w?7'fb!v c.%

SOME FAMOUS INSTANCES OF WOMAN'S WORK IN HISTORY,

Argument Which Goes to Show That the Gentle Sex la the Supertax^ of the Stronger Sex In All the Elements That Are Combined In the Heroic.

Man is the stronger sex undoubtedly, but Which is the more heroic? The very fact that we can ask this question after the preliminary statement shows that woman is. Heroism means to triumph over your own weakness, your own infirmity, oyer the pressure of circumstances around you, over temptations, dangers and difficulties.

The silent workers, the noble martyrs to principle, the uncomplaining household drudges who sacrifice themselves for husbands, brothers and children, and do it not Sn' face of au admiring audience, not ^to win the plaudits of the crowd, not to be chronicled in story, but simply and unostentatiously in the line of duty—these are the true transfigured band of heroines, greater than any epic heroes who conquer heroically or heroically fall.

Yet even in the more obviotis sort of heroism, even in the storm and stress of wordly action, even as military leaders, as conquerors, as potentates, women have inscribed their names on the most valiant pages of history. We have all read stories of Zenobia, of »Semiramis, of Deborah, of Joan of .Arc. We have all heard of Artemisia, queen of Caria,. in whom Xerxes boasted that he had found

His ablest, bravest counselor and chief. Her whose conduct at the battle of Salamis wrung from him the exclamation that his men were behaving like women, his women like men, little knowing that in truth the highest compliment he^ could pay his women was that they were behaving like true women. We remember how when Carras, queen of Carcassone, was besieged in that town by the Saracens, and they in their masculine pride taunted hey for that she should be spinning and not fighting, she threw the taunt into their faces by appearing in the very midst with a lance wreathed around,'distaffiike, with hemp, which she had set aflame, and how ingloriously they fled away from her.

In more recent history a less familiar instance is that of Lady Dundonald. Her husband, while in command of the Chilian fleet, got becalmed in his flagship under a battery, whence he was assailed with redhot. shot. In the face.of that terrible fire the gunners retreated from their posts. Neither threats nor entreaties were of avail. Jf the lire were not returned the ship must inevitably be destroyed with all on board.

Lord Duudonald went down to the cabin where his wife lay. "If a woman sets the example," lie cried, "the. men will he shamed out of their fear. It is our only hope." Without a word she rose and followed him. As she stepped on deck slio seemed to be confronted by a, flatiiiug furnace, of fire, belching out death and destruction. She calmly took a match and fired the "gun, which Lord Dundonald pointed. The men were shamed. They returned to their posts.* The battery wns silenced the ship and its crew were saved.

One of the greatest achievements of masculine heroism has always been held to be the defense",of the pass at Thermopylae Modern historians have thrown grave doubt upon the whole episode. They doubt that there were only 800 they doubt whether all or even the majority of Leonidas' troops remained to be slain. But no historian has thrown any doubt upon the story of the 280 peasant women of Switzerland who during the French invasion of 1798 rushed to arms in response .to the patriotic eloquence of aged Martha Glaz and defended their homes until 180 of them had been killed and all the rest more or less wounded.

These and similar stories show that in the more obvious forms of heroism, in the smoke and dust of battle, women can play and have played as glorious apart as the most intrepid of their brethren—nay, that they have frequently put their brethren to the blush.

In peace also woman's victories have been no less glorious than those won in war. The stories of Grace Darling, of Florence Nightingale, of Sister Gertrude, are all familiar instances. All these have been chronicled, and the fact that they have been so chronicled has made them a perpetual stimulus to the race, and as au Incitement to noble action they are among the choicest heritages of the race.

A great deed properly recorded lifts the heart to God it brushes aside the vale of prose in which our daily life is fthrouded it showB that beneath the veil lies the poetry, the romance, the awful beauty of the godlike heart that makes us one with God. It teaches as to think better of ourselves and better of our fellows when we find that a responsive cord within all of us thrills at the mention of a worthy deed.

But what of the nnchronicled deeds greater than even those that Lave been rc corded? Men live before the World they take part in the external struggle of daily life their deeds |lo not so often as those of women fall unnoted by their fellows. But women, who are even more heroic than the most heroic men, do and suffer in silence. Theirs is the sacred solitude in which they come face to face not with man, but with God. Theirs is the true pathos and sublimity of human life. ShuII we sing of heroes, of conquerors, of martyrs who have giveb their bodies to the flames and build ho lofty rhymes for those who have experienced the cross and not the crown of glory? Shall we miss the high impetus that is afforded by the chronicle of dee4s that have illuminated the sanctuaries of private life? To a certain extent we must. The inner conflicts that find no expression through smiling lips, how otherwise may they be expressed

Much of the most blessed side of hnman life and hnman experience we can only guess at we can never truly know. But so far as we can know let us put oar knowledge where others can share It. Let us teach the race that not only in the past, not only in the storm of action, not only in the high places of the world, are high deeds done. Let us look around us and about us and see that the chosen are still with us that the heart that beats today under calico dresses, in humble tenements and in lowly surroundings, is the same heart that beat under the coat of mail of Joan of Arc amid all the pomp and panoply of war— the infinite, all encompassing heart of true womanhood.—St. Louis Poet-Dispatch.

Girls tHu» Are Violin EatlmclasU. Miss Edith Morton, tbe eldest daughter of Vice President Morton, is said to be a clever player on the vfolln, and Miss Peabody, of the well known Boston Pea body family, i» one of the best atn&teur violinists in tbe country. Then* are a host of yoang women in Boston who are making a study of the violin, possibly to the neglect ot the study of Emerson and various fads of an abstruse nature.—New York Press.

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