Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 23, Number 25, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 10 December 1892 — Page 6

THE WOMAN OF FASHION.

Every Woman Is Her Own Milliner Now.

How to Make Your Kaluy Day Hat—Pretty Bonnet* for EvenInjr Weir—Two Costume* la Cloth—The

Crwzc for Ileadi.

[coPTiunnT, I832.j

I'm sure you want a real pretty, cheap rain hat, one that will stand "almost anything, and yet one that will not look shabby and ugly if the rain you started out in should happen to suddenly cease and the sun should shipe. out brightly before you reached home. This sort of thing happens very often, even these winter days.

Well, then, take a large piece of very thick felt the color you want, and cut it perfect^' round: then wire its edge. Now take it and put into the back and side of it such pretty curves and plaits as taste may dictate and as may become

TIIKATBIL CAI'OTE

you. Curve it slightly downward at the sides

over

your ears so that it will fit

your hfiul. Take the pieces of felt that arc left over, and n:uke some pretty loops and ends to trim the front, lluy a few fancy quills—there are some pretty ones to be had that add a wonderful piquancy to a plain hat—and combine with your felt trimming. If you want to introduce a little astrakhan, all right. It may add to the good effect but if you use only the quills and tho felt, and combine them tastefully, you will need nothing more.

Such a hat costs almost nothing,

and will stand almost any weather or treatment. Evening hats are particularly delicate and beautiful this winter. The big ones of light colored felt* and beavers are all one mass of pale colorings—in velvets, in prince of Wales tips, in lace and fine braids. The small hats have no crowns. They have only three or four line wires for a brim, covered with a pale shade of velvet, a few loops of velvet in front, a couple of aigrettes o:* a bunch of fine flowers, and stri«er°Tho crown Is omitted altogether, so that the elaborate coiffure may rise unhindered to any height desired.

I saw a very dainty one»the other evening. Two small twists of pink velvet rested on the lady's head. At tho •front were a few gathers of some soft, «oc«Kny lace, and resting between lay a #OTy fur head of beautiful fawn brown. a little tiara of brilliants crossed !W folds of lace.

Another had a ruche of black lace all annmd in place of the velvet band, and A buudb of tkc pale blue tips in front, »witJft one Mnok aigir^te and two big Iffold pins. Th*l!*#y's pale blue bodice 'was iUakx^t fciddvn by a lovely Marie 'Antoinette fichu in mousseline do soie, •edged with lace, that was caught on the skouUlers with standing bows.

Have you seen the new miniature pelerine? They call it pelerine in Paris, but it's more like a big collar with a boa hanging from it. It is made of a little bit of a shoulder cape, a cape that just readies the shoulders, but doesn't cover them. This cape, usually made of black velvet, is trimmed with

IX TALK OR AY ANI BUA.CK VELVET.

white Mongolian fur. From the cape rises the highest rolling collar yoti ever saw also in black velvet, and also trimmed with white fur. Then two long bands of Velvet, about four inches wide, are fastened to the coilar in front and fall loosely therefrom to the ground. First, however, the velvet Is turned over at the top several incites, before tl is gathered to the collar, so that it forms a little jabot. The .outaide edges, the bottom, and the top edgv* which falls over, are all trimmed with fur. Five little tails hang1 from the bottom.

Then there's the new Medici collar that doesn't stop at the neck, but est* tends itself into a small cape, just covering the shoulders, nc^ mom. and tjjig snugly over the cwt of last season that you're trying to invest with a jaunty. £«#Wo*»W« air. If the collar has fur edge, and a small head-and-tail boa round it, you will be iar from unsuccessful in your attempt*.

An outdoor coatume, an entirely new one, I assure you-the material i» cloUx,

V-V-•£

sis in

jray-blue cloth, combined largely with tan-colored cloth- The skirt flares well itthe edge—we're getting nearer the hoop^kirt daily, you will note—and has a flounce of tan, headed with marten sable and pinked at the bottom in very deep points. Below the hips behold another band, the fee simile of the lower in every respect. A little farther upsee a corselet of tan color, headed with fur and edged with a point of white and sil'fer embroidery. Then look upon the bodice proper in blue, cut open and low in front, filled in with a tan chemisette. See a tan collar edged with sable, and tan sleeves with blue puffs, and lo! you have caught the dress in its entirety.

Would you look upon another? This one is pale gray made of fine, cloth. A small velvet border finishes the skirt. There's a pocket—such a blessing—on each hip, outlined with three black velvet bands and fastened with a large velvet button. In front, beneath a full waistcoat of black surah, the gray bodice crosses, and is carried over to the left side in a square flap that buttons there. Over the waistcoat falls a black velvet cape, short, and turning back in front in big revers lined with glowing crimson. The red gives the effect, it brings out everything in the gown that is pretty, and adds just the necessary touch of color.

By the way, the Russian is not altogether dead. It dies hard. It rouses itself occasionally and starts up with something of its old strength, making no small impression on those that stand around. Its length continues to grow, both above the waist and below. The long waist line of the Russian^ forms a complete contrast to the short bodiced Empire and it is difficult to believe, when one sees two women standing side by side, one clad in an Empire and the other in a Russian, that they are actually endowed with similitude of form. Some pretty Russian blouses have fur collars, fur edges and fur girdles, as well as elbow puffed sleeves caught in a band of fur.

The small neck boas are ouch a comfort, are they not? They can be bought for so little, and they're so very becoming. For all the alleged softness and sympathy of women we wear those little fur heads without a bit of compunction. We put them on our hats, coats,

AFTERNOON TOILET IN CLOTH AND FUB.

all over our gowns, on our boas and muffs, and never feel at all remorseful at the amount of additional pain our latest fad has brought into the world. Where's the society that started the crusade against the wholesale slaughter of the birds? It ought to add anew branch to its work embracing such a reform. The use of birds has become less popular since so many fashionable women pledged themselves to wear no more so that the society has been able to rest somewhat from its labors. But here is .an opportunity for it to strike out in anew direction.

Would the world of women stand by them? ©r will those poor little fur heads be hunted down until they are utterly cut off, ufttil they vanish for all time from the face of this world of ours? EVA A. SCHUBERT.

GOOD CAUSE FOR SHUDDERING.

Why Panning a Book Shop Made the KUIng Author Turu Pale. The Rising Author was strolling nlonss the avenue with a friend. When they came to a certain much-frequent-ed book store the friend said: "This is the day the Weekly Thunderer gets out. Let mo go and buy my eopy. Besides, wo may look around a little."

But the other shuddered and shook his head. "No," he. replied, "I won't go in with you. I'll wait here."

It was so strange a thing and lingered so in the friend's mind that ho mentioned it at the club that evening. And they all shook their heads and said it was queer, very queer. Moreover, each and every one of them made opportunities to lure the Rising Author towards book stores and hear and see, separately and individually, his shifty excuses.

At least a friend more cruel than the rest said to him: "Old man, what's the matter? Why do you shun the shops where your kind of wares are "sold? What's up?"

The Rising Author groaned. **0, you're all so blind. Why, man alive, my new book's just out. It's on the counters now. Bir! Why, those places are positively ghastly. To go in and ask, with a sickly, feeble smile. 'How is the—the "book selling?* Then the polite, deprecatory attempt at hiding the miserable truth. The customer who comes in and picks up the new creation glances at title page *ad lays It down again to pass on to ©t&er things. I stood those things for awMle. But a man must stop somewhere. I could stand it no longer. So, no, anything but that! Don't ask me."

The air of the club now bears for the Rising Author a sort of commiseration. His fellows understand now.—Chicago: Tribune,

A Bird Blew.

Soaker—After I left you last night a fellow knocked the breath out of me. Spicer—He must hare hit you an a«r-1 ful lick.-Jury.

WWi

HANDLED WITH CAKE. I&8®1

A. Tailor Tells Of Troubles in Fit"ting Fashionable Dames,

fA a •jtvs Ladles Who Prefer a M*n Dressmaker, Bat Dislike Him to Take Their Measurement—Why Actresses' Dresses

Are the Most Perfectly Fitting

1 COPYRIGHT, 1892.1 ?.

As I was entering a fashionable tail* oring establishment on upper Fifth avenue recently, I was passed by a handsome woman in a tailor-made gown that fitted her superb, symmetrical figure without a suspicion of a wrinkle, and set off her well-rounded proportions in a manner that no doubt greatly gratified her, and certainly pleased an admirer's eye "I want you to tell me just how it's done," I demanded of the proprietor, "from the time a Venus like that is measured untilshe leaves the shop, a ravishing object of beauty to rend into shreds the heart of every man who meets her?"

The proprietor smiled and intimated that the lady's physical charms had

THIS IS THIS KIND OF GIRL TO WEAR A TAILOR-MADE GOWST!

much to do with the general effect, admitting, however, that his gown helped out considerably. "I'll tell you," he-said, "how we do it. Now you are unsophisticated enough to suppose that it must bo real fun for the cutter. That's wherft you're off. It is houses and lots to him. A ladies' tailor is like an artist painting his model inasmuch as Jiis mind is wrapt up his art, and he is not admiring the subjects'shape." "You don't think you would like your wife to be tape-measured, pinned-up, smoothed-over, basted and stitched by another man? Absurd! I thought the average man was more reasonable. "Now, next to her complexion, the most sensitive point of a woman's vanity is her figure. All women having none are inordinately vain. Of course, they deny this, but their vanity hugs them like the copper wire wrappings of a cable. It is upon this weakness that we merchants and the modistes and milliners bank. Therefore, if your wife, to gratify her vanity—and yours, too, in having her appear well—goes to a man to be fitted, you cannot prevent her. "In view of the fact, which cannot be disputed, that men can fit better, cut and finish a fine gown in a manner superior to the dressmakers, it cannot be considered strange that they are patronized by the opposite sex. "Now, as to the operation. No, our customers do not partially disrobe before the cutter. We have a private re-

THE OLD-FASHIONED WAT.

ception room and an attendant in waiting. In what condition a woman presents herself to be measured depends largely upon the Woman. "For instance, actresses are not as timid and modest as most women Again, any woman who has traveled and had her dresses made abroad is apt not to be prudish upon the subject. Other women are super-sensitive. We treat them according to their dispositions. "Let us begin with the traveled society woman, who wants her dresses to fit. She removes her waist in the reception room, exposing her bust and arms. Now she shows most of her anatomy at a ball, and twice as mnch at the seashore in the surf, but custom and locality have much to do with propriety, you know. The cutter is summer:t'd and shs is measured. Here are the lines of a lady's body measure: "You will notice that the bulge of the bust receivfed the most attention from the fitter, and it is here where the nice work comes in Some women have full busts above, the middle bust line and they are comparatively easy to fit. Others hare no busts at all. Others have hollow chests and. throats. In each of these cases it Is difficult to avoid wrinkles, bat the art of man." with a smile,"makes up where nature has not been generous. The cutter first measures from the neck on the shoulder blade out to the end of the shoulder. Then he measures a straight line from the throat down in front to the end of the waist which is now worn long. Then he measures the lines from sido to side over, above and below the bust The waist measure follows. Then diagonal Unas axe taken from the top of the shoulder to the middle line of the bust nd are continued below and to the narrrowest part of the waist Then alineistakrafrofmionderthearmdowzi

rERRE HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING MAIL

to the waist The measurements of the back are less complicated. "You will observe," continued the tailor, "the different measurements, and the cutter "must necessarily lightly touch his customer. But the whole proceeding is done in a delicate and scrupulously polite manner. "Many ladies prefer to be measured over a corset cover, which conceals the bust Others prefer to have the measurements taken over their dresses, while others decline to have men measure them, and the measurements are taken by women. The cutting and fitting in all cases, however, is done by men. "After taking the measurement the cutter at once withdraws, and in due time the dress is cut and basted and the customer returns to be fitted. The •trying on.' or fitting, of the dress is most important and men can fit far better than women. Clad in her new gown and covered with pins and bastings, the lady and the cutter meet for the second and the last time. The latr ter casts his practiced eye quickly over the form before him smooths out a wrinkle over the bust loosens or tightens the fit under the arms takes in a bit ift the back tightens the waist and, when it is over, the dress fits as tight as a drumhead. But every move ment pressure and touch every pin taken out and replaced every chalk line drawn, are made with the greatest deference, care and regard for propriety atll—certainly what is fully as important—the lady's custom. "I know of one ladies' tailor who makes a thin plaster of paris cast of his customer's measurements, arid fits his dresses upon it, but the result cannot be as satisfactory as upon the living figure. "The most difficult dress to Jit and to make," said the tailor, "is a riding habit. Women ore awful cranky upon the fit of this garment. Wo make tho waist with a broader back than that of the ordinary tailor gown, and the skirt is fitted by an entirely different system.

We seat our customer cu a woodan horse and carefully fit the skirt to the curve of the knee on the pommel and "the slope of the hip. It is peculiarly difficult to fit a riding skirt so that it will not wrinkle. "When it WJIS recherche to wear

READY TO BE FITTED—A DIFFICULT TASK.

the cutter cut them. But you can't fit a woman with a pair of trousers, anyway. This fact is patent to anybody who has the least knowledge of anatomy. A woman's breadth of hip and thickness of thigh, peculiar shape of limb and small waist render it impossible. We all know how a woman, unless she is as slender as a reed, looks on the stage dressed in men's clothes. "It is not now fashionable to wear trousers under riding habits, but wool or silk tights. Yes, regular stage tights. The skirts can cling to the form without a wrinkle, and a woman with a fine figure is certainly an object of delightful contemplation. "As I said," continued my informant, "actresses give us the least trouble and we like them best as customers. When they want to "be fitted for a tailor-made gown they don't waste any time over nonsensical notions of false modesty. They want their dresses admired and they demand a perfect fit which they get "I make the clothes of a well-known actress who shines in male character parts. With all due modesty, I think much of her success rests upon the nobby and exquisitely-fitting suits she wears. In fact I make the clothes for

WA3TTS A WGHT-rrrriK? DHESS. TO MAKE HER LOOK THIS.

several actresses who some time appear in male parts. In all cases the measurements are taken in the same manner. "The ladies bring with them a pair of silk tights, which they don* together with a corset, in the private dressingroom. The costume, as you will at once admit is the same as any chorus girl or light opera singer impersonating a wears before the audience, except that tho necklace and smile are missing and a few bands of goldjand silver lace. "af "When my customer is thus robed, or perhaps we had better say disrobed, 1 iseasure her from shoulder to ankle, precisely as if she were a man, and in the same business-like manner and witbthe same concern. The result is that when she appears on tho stage everybody admires the fit of her clothes." 1?SD LOCK RECK.*«I»

WOMEN AND THE LAW

FEMININE STUDENTS NOW ATTEND 1 LEGAL LECTURES.

rhe University of the City of New York, One of the Oldest Schools in the Country, Has a Lecture Chair Endowed for the Purpose of Helping Women.

The first woman lawyer we hear of bargained for a heart. New York's women law students are bargaining for heads.

Shylock was to get a pound as his part if he lawfully carried out Portia's argument of his case the University of New York just gets a bit over a pound (five dollars) for furnishing these modern Portias with the inspiration for arguments—namely, twelve lectures, or one pourseof legal study. v''

The gray old college which stands in University place and receives each year with renewed vigor ambitious students was just the home of learning to take the lead in this educational departure. When an old institution which is invariably inflated with long established theories, customs and habits reverts from its prescribed systems, then indeed has a worthy recruit been won over to anew theory.

This is the position the. University of New York stands in today. If it were human the many earnest women who have tried to influeuce it in favor of coeducation for years past could cover themselves with "I told you so" honors, but as it is a silent, and unspeaking witness its gray bearded walls and wrinkled roofs simply look down unchanged on the changing interiors. For in the days of its youth and its prime only male voices were ever heard within its gates.

If we believe with the old Roman "that the very walls have ears," then perhaps it is well that they have not tongues to tell all they know and think. If they could they might even argue with Professor Isaac Russell, the now eminent teacher of the women law students, as to his change of mind. He was at first greatly opposed to the idea of the addition of a lecture chair for women in the law school, but after much thought and study

she

has

gradually been convinced of its advisability, and at the present time his eloquence and energies for its perpetuation know* no bounds.

As the schoolboy said in his lesson upon physics about the apple, "The bigger the apple that falls the greater the gravitation," so with the advancement of women— the greater the man won over to the cause

trousers under the skirt our lady at-! the greater the victory. To Chancellor tendantwould take the measure and MacCracken, Professor Russell and 'the Woman's Legal Educational society, through whose efforts the lecture chair was endowed, is due the present magnificent success which results in the enrollment of nearly ICO anient students.

The pioneers of the cause were the members of the Woman's Legal Educational society, which for its size can show more active labor, enterprise and progression than any organization of its character in America.

Mrs. Alexander Forman, the zealous secretary, in her own language best describes its birth and advancement. "The society originated," she says, "in the interest which was aroused in a group of ladies by the career of Mrs. Emily Kempin, doctor of laws from the University of Zurich, who came to New York to seek op portunities for practicing law and also for teaching. Her energy served to bring to light a latent and hitherto unexpected interest in the study of law by women—at leaston its practical side—and to show that this was beginning to be quite diffused throughout the community. "Several different attempts were made to secure for Mrs. Kempin an opportunity to lecture for women who were desirous to learn. After many schemes had proved abortive the arrangement was finally made which is now in existence and# has proved eminently satisfactory. A society was organized and subsequently incorporated under the namo of the Woman's Legal Educational society. "The object of this society is to facilitate all study of law by women (both as profes sional students and also as amateurs) interested in law as a subject of general in tellectual culture, and also for the sake ot practical guidance in personal and business affairs."—New York Herald, v/vvj.A

When Folk* Come Homo from Europe.

The following rules and regulations drawn up by a clever young woman of this city, in anticipation of her younger sister's return from traveling abroad, will be appreciated by all who have undergoue the experience of a returned member of the family from a season of European travel. The rules, which were typewritten in large text and tacked on the dining room door, were as follows:

All European guests charged extra for everything. All European talk extra, except when requested.

All conversation interlarded either with Italian or French, very much extra. Meals served in rooms, especially dejeuners, very much extra.

Meals served a la carte, exorbitant prices. Breakfast served at 8 a. in. punctually. No excuse for nonappearance.

Cafe au -lait avec pain roti served by guests themselves. All money, whether Atnerican or foreign, can be left with eldest daughter of the landlady.

No allusions to foreign sights, dates of churches, heights of steeples, etc., allowed. No conversation other than plain English permissible.—Kate E. Thomas in Kate Field's Washington.

Hlitsiw of Stoat Women.

Why do stoutest women—I won't say fat —always make the mistake of trying to wear close fitting gowns, that they may look "less big?" A fashionable dressmaker told me that this was an unfailing weakness of the plump woman, and one very hard to combat. The plump woman does not seem to realize that in a tailor made dress her plumpness is ail the more accentuated, and that her too well rounded contour becomes just so much more prominent, while In a garment not so plain and close in its outlines other lines of the form are partially concealed. The fat woman doesn't think so, however, as you can see for yourself by looking along the seats of a car any day. She Insists on being tightly laced and song.—Exchange.

Kew YoxV Women Who Play.

When the Ladies4 Amateur orchestra gave their public concert for sweet charity's sake at the Lyceum theater a few years ago Mrs. Drexel's daughter was the harpist. The Misses Sarah Cooper Hewitt, McKim, Moran and Woodward were among the violinists the Hisses Eleanor G. Hewitt, Miss Remsen, Miss Knox and Mis* Schenck played violas Mrs. Janin presided over the destinies of the kettledrum. Miss Learning had charge of the triangle, and Miss Johnston sounded Lhp cymbals.—New

York Press.

IN GLASS..

That's the way Dr. Pierce'ts Pleasant Pellets come. And. it's a more important point than you think. It keeps, them always fresh and reliable, unlike the ordinary pills in cheap wooden or pasteboard boxes.

They're put up in abetter way, and tney act in abetter way, than the huge, old-fash-ioned pills. No griping, no violence, no reaction afterward that sometimes leaves

Kuthat

worse off than before, way. they^cure per

manently. Bilious tion, Ini

ly. &ick Headache,

Bilious Headachev Constipatjestion, Bilious Attacks, and all derangements of the liver, stomach, and

bowels are prevented, relieved, and cured. They're tiny, sugar-coated granules, a compound of retned and concentrated vegetable extracts—tl smallest in size, the easiest to take, and t«e cheapest pill you can buy, for they'ro guaranteed to give satisfaction, or your money is returned. You pay only for the good you fet.

There's nothing likelybo "just as good."

Soleffliflo American

UC hi IlC idiii'n, Komli'i

CAVEATV,

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WHERE DOLLARS ARE MADE

Th«Uneof tbelQXJEEN & CRESCENT ROUTE through KBNTUCKY. TKNNK8SKR, ALABAMA, MISSISSIPPI, and LOUISIANA OFFER? KKKATKTt OPrORTTTVlTfKS TO

SETTLERS, MANUFACTURERS &GENERAL BUSINESS ENTERPRISE

than any other part of the U. B., van! bodies of

Coal, Iron, Timber & Farm Lands

Al*o THOU8AN1W of ACREB of LONO LEAF YELLOW PINE for sale cheap. This road runs through the thriving towns of Lexington, Danville, and Somerset, Ky. Kockwood,I?arrlman. and Cbatanoogo, Tenn Ft. Payne, A Italia. Birmingham, and Tnscaloosa, Ala.: Meridian, Hnttiestmix. Jackson and Viekxhor#, XIML New Orleans, Delhi, Monroe, and v«-porl. La. Some of the new id donate money and land to locnt« a f»i€tu rl ng enterprises.

The R. K. Co. will make low rate* for Pa*-, neneer* and Freight, and afford Investors every opportunity to examine tho different looulttM, If necessary, will send a representative with tho party.

Fnil particulars, and any required Information, wlil be sent by mail on application to D. G.T5DWAKDS, G. P. A T. Axt-

Q,&C. Boute, CINCINNATI, O,