Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 23, Number 24, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 3 December 1892 — Page 6

THE WOMAN OF FASHION.

How She Drosses When She

IJOKNKT

Ap­

pears in Clubland. ...

OtMcmtlonn ol the Fashionable Woman -Some Note* on Her tiowiu—Two Masnlllccnt Pari* Cloaks—The

Restoration in Headgear.

.* I COPY BIGHT. 1KK.1

Swelldom made a great sacrifice the other evening1—gave up the horse show to attend the opening of one of its new clubs—yclept Colonial. Chauncey Depew was there, as usual, and spoke of the, number of pretty women present. I looked about ma Did 1 gaze through green spectacles, that I could not

OF 1880.

discern his rose-colored visions? I had just before made a mental note of the fact that there wasn't a single pretty woman there—no, not One could I find, although I had gone from room to room, up and down every staircase, peeped into all the cozy corners whero beauty might be lurking, and examined critically every woman in the lovely gold and white theator. perhaps it was because they wore more like themselves than they used to bo. Powder I could see plenty of, but very little rouge, cream washes, and beautifiers.

Another tiling that I noticed was the courage of the American women as exemplified in that portion of them present. Although the empire has been "the thing" for some time past any number of those women wore their last winter's gowns with the most wonderful equanimity. I couldn't count more than twenty empire gowns, and wasn't able to discover one in the 1830, although that I hardly looked for, it has so recently come over. To be sure, the season is still young, but, taking all things into consideration, it was certainly surprising and disappointing. I was sorry that, the women had not made more of an effort t? be bewitching. They seemed just a triflo indifferent. I noticed it even in the drossingroora before they camo down there wasn't, the usual crowding about mirrors almost all of them gave only a look or two into tho glass and then turned away. Is it the growing strongmindedness, do you suppose, that has anything to do with the chango? Surely the element isn't creeping into the circles of exclusiveness and gayety.

Hengaline was tho most popular material, apparently, and chiffon. There wore any number of bengaline gowns in light eolors, with velvet sleeves. White and green wero thero, and a great deal of them, particularly in all white gowns, with very bright greon velvet sleeve puffs. Next to white and green in favor camo white and pale yellow possibly because tho exquisite little ballroom was decorated in these two deliento colors. Tho women that had gowns of these two shades, or of pale yellow alone—anil there were ever so many of both—looked very pretty when tho shades that covered tho wall background melted softly into their own garb. One woman was simply a cloud of white chiffon puffs, sleeves, paniers, et al. Her dress was so prettj- that I felt sorry that she wasn't. One girl I liked—sho was petito, graceful and weird. Iler young face looked younger with her short, ourlv black hair reach-

WHITK CLOTH

PKLKRIXK.

ing lust to her shoulders, caught with only one pin, and then falling at it would. Her white bengaline gown foil plain and a little full, straight to her feet, from a short white yoke. A band of magenta velvet covered the join all around, and two long narrow magenta loops stood op from the band, on the yoke, in front, almost touching hear dark, gypsy-like throat. Her dra« waa loosely caught at the waist by another velvet band of the same bright color, and long streamers fell from the yoke at the back.

A train there was that was simply overpowering. A gentleman that stood sear me measured it with a quick eye, and pronounced its length three yards. Dear. what a lot of room iu owner needed! She made aoveral attempts to hold it up, but even when ahe took hold of the very middle, along end still fell

about her. which she was helpless to control. Her robe was very beautifully trimmed with deep Venetian point.

But I was fully repaid for all the weariness of looking and watching that evening when the women began to go go home, for I saw two cloaks that were most magnificent. They were fresh from Paris, 1 could see at a glance.

The first one was of pure white cloth, and hung over a

rose-coloredgown

The other was very different. It was of a beautiful water-green brocade, with leaf-sprays outlined in gold. The cloak, which fell to the feet, seemed to be made of but four straight pieces. Two were narrow and formed the front, meeting in the center. The other two were much wider and formed the back, the sides and the sleeves. At the back the opening was far up, so that the dress' train had plenty of room to sweep out. But where these pieces touched the front breadths they fell altogether loose, and apart, so that they "were like long sleeves. A pretty lining of white quilted silk showed at one side, and a pointed yoke of rich green velvet was edged by a wide bertha of fine guipure. An immense rolling collar, also of guipure, stood up above the lady's ears.

How did those dames fix their hair, do you ask? Not very much out of the ordinary. Most all of them high, or semi-high, with diamond or flower bands lying round the coils, with pretty

aigrettes

satin

or flowers or high narrow

boWB

standing up from the twists,

with perhaps less waving locks and more smooth shining ones. Some of the dainty hair ornaments worn now are very pretty. They often convert an ordinary coiffure into a remarkably pretty one, with their fanciful shapes. One that I saw was particularly pretty. It had a fine head of gold for a foundation and at tho center a bird perched with outstretched wings, all in dull gold.

Talking of head ornamentation reminds me of head covering. Just think

WATKB-GRKEN BROCADED CLOAK.

of itl The restoration of the style of 1880 has gone even so far as the hat. Behold a bonnet with high brim standing up away from the face, with

Bides

closely drawn over the ears by strings that tie under the chin. How do you think you look in it? Do you think you like it? If you have a sweet face, with a pretty, demure mouth, it may be the very thing that will suit you. The only one I have so far had the pleasure of seeing is of pale gray felt, has a gathered rose-colored lining on the wide front brim, has black standing plumes in front and black strings. Strange to suy, it isn't at all ugly. Nay, to be still more candid, I shall have to confess that I like it, that I think it very pretty.

EVA A. SCHUBERT.

A boat the Empire Bodice.

The short empire waist appears among leading autumn fashions, and doubtless many women will adopt this particular style of bodice. But there are waists and waists, and while this fad of fashion may be selected by the minority, who are willing to relinquish the long or natural length waist, there are very many more women who are not so disposed. There is something very unbecoming to the minds of most women in the waist with its belt or girdle relegated nearly to the armpits, and although these look well upon special figures and upon special occasions and also very charming in the Kate Greenaway models for children, they do not seem the sort of bodice for general use.

Hack I.Ike This Country.

The desire to serve the country by holding public office, be the post ever so humble, seems to be about as strong in France as anywhere else. The prefect of the Seine had recently 1,071 offices at his disposal, all of a minor importance, and for these offices he had over 40,000 applicants. The offices were mostly as supernumerary clerks, porters, local customs collectors, tobacco-«hop keepers, and even chief funeral mutes and cemetery rangers. There was only one office that lacked a candidate. That waa the of* flee of teacher of manual labor in the elementary schools. There was no aspirant for this situation.

Xatanl Oftmbltn.

The Esquimaux are gaxnbler^ by nature, but they never impoverish themselves by their games. Cards they do not care for, but dominoes and even chess axe played with a skill that at least equals the best white men who visit them. _____________________

Xlswt Cp.

Mrs. Hardhead—I can always tell what kind of a wife a man has by his views on the woman question-

Stranger—I have all aorta of view*. Mrs. Hardhead—Then you area Chicago man.—N. T. Weekly.

IN 0THEB MEN'S mm

Hosts Who Make Quests Tx **1 TVTnnh at Home.

What Kind of Invitation* Should Be JS«fa*ed—•OJbertr Hall" Is a Cheerless Abode—The Important

Question of

that

had a crush velvet empire belt of pink, a deeper shade. The cloak was a double pelerine, the first cape hanging threequarter length, and edged with Russian sable the second very, much shorter, edged the same. From the neck fell a very narrow ruffle of the clothe both headed and edged with fur and the fur of the heading went down insidfe the mantle as well, for a few inches, so that it was warm and close at the throat. The lining was white taffeta, shot with pale rose.

•rippln*.jg||B*

mit COPYRIGHT, 1WB. 1

One of the most objectionable, and frequent manifestations of bad from is to be found in the manner of entertaining guests who are staying in the house on a more or less prolonged visit. So very few persons possess the delicacy, tact and intuition requisite to make their friends "feel at home," and so many are the discomforts both of a moral and physical character which I have been called upon to suffer under that head, that a cold shiver goes down

THE HAKD-WOBKED QUEST.

my back whenever I am requested to "make myself at home."

1

Thus, what can be more distressing, for instance, than the host who is so solicitous of our enjoyment that 1:3 cannot bear to see us doing nothing. He seems to have an idea that it is a reflection upon his hospitality and that it is his duty to provide us with occupation for every waking hour out of the twenty-four. To such a pitch have I known men to carry this that, even when they would see me reclining in an easy chair glanaing over the day's paper and resting from some labor which their forethought or ingenuity had imposed upon me, they Would burst in with the unwelcome query of: "Well, and what would you like to do now?" Of course there is no help for it. One is obliged to fall in with their ceaseless suggestions and one returns to one's own home thoroughly worn out both mentally and physically. The worst of it is that it is impossible to quarrel with .such. a man as this, either in his house or out of it, as the intention is so manifestly hospitable and kindly and his manner so hearty and cordial that one cannot even enjoy the satisfaction of asking him to leave one alone just for a short time. I am sure that there are many of my readers who will sympathize with me when they read this and' •who will recall memories of their own experiences of an analogous character. There must be certainly many of them •who have been led around to see stables which did not interest them, scenery which did not charm them, dragged from cellar to garret for the purpose of inspecting tiill the household arrangements, conducted over fields and ditches to observe the condition of crops, called upon to admire the porcelains, ivories or any other pet fad of the host—every man has some hobby of this kind—or else be treated to all the local gossip, in whioh one can have no -possible earthly interest or concern. Hosts such as these should be avoided, no matter how good their heart or excellent their household arrangements.

Equally ojectionable is the man who assures you that his house is "Liberty hall" and that you are expected to do everything when and as you please. When staying at another person's house, especially when it is for the first

THE GUEST FEELS OTTT OF PLACE.

time, one likes to have at least some little kind of direction and indication as to the ways and customs of the place nor does one like to be left too much to one's self. It is not pleasant, for instance, to come down to breakfast and eithortolx An ccJ to wait a hour for that meal or elsn to hnd it half finished 'and most of the things cold. Nor is it agreeable to find the people on their knees in the act of family prayers, such aa are still the fashion in a great many houses. The way people thus engaged look around over their shoulder at the person entering the room and disturbing their devotions is peculiarly disconcerting. Hosts who describe their house as "Liberty hall" are, moreover, very apt to assure you, when inviting yon, that they never dress for dinner and thatit is altogether unnecessary to bring your dress clothes. Woe betide you, however, if you take such a man as this at his word and leave your evening dress at home, for yon will certainly finil on your arrival that yonr host is In evening dress entertaining his friends on a nettle of peculiar magnificence. 1 have been caught several times this way, and have consequently made it a fixed rale never to believe a man who tells me sot to "dress for dinner,** even when he declares on oath that he ttaver does It himself. I likewise endeavor, as 1 mentioned above, to avoid the host

who tries to find me occupation, and 1 make a point of invariably refusing all invitations to "Liberty hall." No man really can feel so comfortable in another person's house as in his own, and it requires considerably more than the ordinary modicum of tact to be able to strike the happy medium between neglecting ofae's guests on the one hand, or overwhelming them with" attentions that become irksome.on the other.

Another drawback to staying^ at other

people's

houses is the question of

most

stay,

tip-

when one remembers that a stay ra

course of the summer and autumn

months

one pays a good many of

what'll we do now, my boy? evening, requested the parson, as a particular favor, to read or recite to us, for her especial benefit and edification, the sermon which he had preached a couple of hours previously. This proved the straw that "broke the camel's back"—I being the camel—and I need scarcely add that I never stayed at that house again. For I considered that this manner of bombarding one's guests with four sermons on one day, and family prayers added in, as not altogether good form. And yet I claim to be a religious man. Good Form.

The Spectators Were Delighted.

At a bullfight held at Fresnillo, Mexico, recently, the performance was pleasantly varied for the delectation of the spectators by matching a fine bull against two Mexican lions. The entertainment proved a drawing card, and fully 2,d00 people assembled to witness the sport. The bull was game and as soon as the lions entered the arena he charged them furiously and caught one of them on his horns. While he was busy with this one, however, the other got him by the throat and hung on till the bull fell exhausted to the ground. A bandcrillero then entered the arena to help give the bull a chance, when the

seen such

ray*1

8port.

A Literal Translation.

The minister was one of those old,

dried-up little darlnes, very ignorant,

hand a distance from the floor. 'He

den Slid

EDUCATION OP GIRLS.

THE

BEST WAY TO TRAIN UP THE AMERICAN GIRL.* 1 jHns Frances Funston, of New York City,

AVERAGE

Hts Awarded a Prize toy the New York Herald for tho Following Interesting and Instructive Article,.

The subject of the proper education oi

women to meet the problems of the present

ping the servants, which in many places century is now a very live topic. When is carried to a far greater excess than one looks around and out on the mass of

of my readers would care to believe, women who are forced to rely upon their Thus, in a country house there is the butler to be attended to, and the manservant appointed to look after you, likewise the chambermaid intrusted with the care of your room. Then there is also the coachman who drives you to and from the station, and one of the

I bUw OV0V1VU) UuuU UUJI UUgu vuw UQVM VV

own efforts, it is amassing how much they accomplish with the slight equipment for such exertion that many of them possess.

grooms, if you do any riding during there have been who have held positions of vour

That women possess all the qualities of men, except perhaps physical strength, no one now cares to deny. We all know that down through the ages of history women

and last, but not least, the great responsibility women who have tramekeeper, if your host happens to risen to the very height of power and inhave any shooting preserves. All this

ex$ends beyond a week sometimes

only a couple of days—and during the

fluence

nave^^iw si' ceptions of the age which they lived, constitutes a heavy drai

but such women have been the ex-

Ha(J all women

cejve(j

things

.v*«j attended a darky camp-meeting in their claim to beauty, but see always that South Carolina," said a Louisville (Ky.) the proper attention is given to the adornman at the Sherman house of Lbeir outward asweUa. to "I saw some very peculiar things,

the

enjoyed the mental train

men Qf

nofc

home, one would probably go to church tb« new requirements? To the question, of one's own free will and accord, but at a friend's house, one feels to a certain extent that one is under compulsion to do so, and this in itself is quite sufficient to render the matter irksome and to give rise to the longing to remain away from service..

In all English and American houses where I have stayed the .attendance at church has been a feature of the Sunday, and a very proper one, too, if only I had not had that unpleasant feeling that I Was under an obligation to go. In some houses this church attendance is carried to excess, and I remember especially one country house where I stayed in England over Sunday, when I was driven to one church in the morning, to another for afternoon service, and to yet a third in the evening for evening service. Not content with this, our host brought home with him to the house the clergyman who had conducted the evening service, and toward ten o'clock our hostess, who had been unable to accompany us to church that

their class and age re-

tlifflctilt to say what result

^ave been accomplished.

That they

this evidept.

kind of dine and sleep visits. courageous ones who have at Inst changed Still another drawback to staying at the current of popular thought, so that all other people's houses is the question of fields are practically open to women, church on Sunday. If at one's own

have not had that training is

Wq all know the history of the

How shall

she best be trained to Jfteefc all

What education shall woman have? the answer now is, All she wishes or can receive.

The problems that confront her today are varied, and the calls upon her are unceasing.

First, she should be taught to take care of her health, so as to be sound physically without that she cannot hope to be sound and strong mentally.

The only reason why there is any need to discuss the question placed at the head of this letter is that she has not always had the facility for mental training that her brothers have had.

Look at the great army of noble women of the past and present. Take our lessons from those who have made the world better by living in it. Do we not find in th'eir lives that they possess the most beautiful of all traits—self control. This has not been obtained by an idle life nor by efforts to assert themselves, to secure for themselves. the greatest amount of comfort, but rather by quiet self sacrifice and by self

training,

||C

first in study and next in inter­

course with the world, and by such self discipline that all her faculties respond to her will.

Her perceptive faculties should be well cultivated, so that sho comprehends quickly, sees at a glance what is to bo done, and taught absolutely to rely upon her own ability to do what is required. These

ai% innate in most women. They

sHotild be developed to their utmost limit. Then woman needs to be taught that accuracy and attention to detail should not necessarily result in a narrowing of her mental horizon.

Systematic regulation of daily habits are of vast importance, and should be insisted upon in early, lifo, trained in so thoroughly and persistently that one is able to arrange for all caKs upon time and effort unconsciously. This must be done early in life, however, and must be judiciously done, or the result will be fussiness.

The reasoning faculties must not be overlooked perhaps that can best be done by a thorough grounding in mathematics, which most women dislike. Their intuitive intincts are in the way there, for it is easier to jump at a conclusion, nine times out of ten, and jump right, too, than to take tintime to follow out along chain of to their, useless deductions, only to arrive at what they knew all the time.

While some contend that mathematics are the best

aid3

to a broadening of those

faculties that women are supposed to b» most deficient in, it seems to me that a general training in the field of literature will be of incalculable benefit.

History particularly should not be overlooked—not the mere study of events, but what influences and causes were at work upon the lives and characters of the people who have preceded us and are about us now, and who have controlled individual and social development.

I think that and kindred subjects tend to widen the mental scope, and to give a clearer and sounder judgment. All women should be encouraged in taking up systematically those subjects that tend to lift them above the routine work which they are rfpt to fall into by the constant attention to home duties. It is fully demonstrated now that there need be no fear that by aiding in an all round culture for women they will give less attention to their household duties.

It will, 1 know, help them to a more intelligent performance of those same dut ies.

A harmoniously educated woman will rise to any emergency will be ready to meet any problem of this or any other age.

Teach them to use every faculty that God has endowed them with. A woman may be taught to care for her house, to do with her own hands every part of the work

lian sprang upon him and before help wjuu uci* uwu uouua cwj piuwi. *,uia could be rendered fatally mutilated required, for it is only by "doing" that we him. The lion was shot, the mangled are well taught. bull put out of his misery, and the She may ride, dance, sing, and in fact crowd declared that they had never have all the accomplishments that will add v. «,Mi en™* to her attractiveness, which last is of great

importance in this age. If women are to

be earnest workers they must not forget

cultivation of their intellects. Women should be taught to dress well. Personal

presence

The

knows jes' what I am talkin' about. De impose#

atc ftTt

to Himself somet'ing like dis:

aE1(

"Low, I am wid you aluz." fcal power of thought is the highest devel**The audience took it all very sol- opment of both sexes and few of either atemnly.w—Chicago Hews. v-l#™ tain it. Men through generations have had -r hereditary practical experience and a cer-

Xothinff to tain hardness acquired in dealing with the Foreigner—Scientists agree that ell-

wor

mates are changing all cirer the globe, each, &ter the rudiments, to study for his Is there not fear that the Americas cli- work.

A Bsiiaen Tnnwcttoa. The Woman's exchange, New York city, JSote Broker—Let me see, dear what has several classes each season where womAnitt at the weddinfff send their daughters to learn the art of m! dnttmnJctag. com, tbemMlrt. or Mod

js an element of power in both

men an( WO

but very earnest. He was preaching that women need be taught or educated so away with great fervor and began to much as to be given more freedom to use describe the appearance of the Saviour,

fully

Said he: they know so well how to do without being 'I you, breveren, de Lo'd was a taught. low, little bit ob a man. Yes sah I

men. In fact I do not know

and without harsh criticism what

modern gift of dyil righto to woman

heTcivi

,, "L __ ,{„,« v.„ spheres die does men's work—all are open fJ h5. to her save those that demand higher physmeasared the height by holding his

Uab1""?

Jcal Btrengt

in those that call fof deli-

quickneea of perception, patience

refinement, she can equal men. Log-

M,{ and to men education is free to

TGive

mate may change for the worse? and the same practical aptitude and expeAmerican (confidentially}—Oh, no- It rience »»d they eouldn't.—Demorest's Magazine. Frances Pension in New York Herald.

the women the same freedom

I "Har mrtta. Bub pnpU to expected to

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