Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 23, Number 23, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 26 November 1892 — Page 6

WOMAN OF FASHION.

A Rival of the Empire Makes Its Appearance. —,

What Will Perhaps Supersede the Empire Altogether—Ilotlices and Some Very Pretty Ooei Described—The

Diversity iu Sleeve*.

[COPYRIGHT, 1802.]

Did you say that empire was the style? Did you say that everything which conies from Paris or from the great London modistes has an empire touch, either of the First, under Josephine, with low-cut, short-waisted bodice, or of the Second, under Eugenie, a la criholine.

But what would you say if you heard that the empire revival was to be only •ery short-lived that it was soon to be superseded by the mode of 1830 that even now Paris has declared herself in

favor of it because she thinks it a graceful "go-between," a style that has all the beauties of both and the extrava'gancies of neither. It's a little tantalizing—don't you think so—to discover that your newest gown, cut in the very latest fashion, as you supposed, is about to be followed by another which will usurp its place?

But take heart don't cast off your pretty new gown. It will take a long while for the empire to become oldfashioned and there isn't such a difference between the old and the new to make it worth while getting the latter, and perhaps those of us who are on this side of the water will still cling to our first love. For there's a good deal of independence even in tho matter of dress about the American woman, and a favorite style will often linger long after it has been declared old-fashioned.

This was never more strikingly exemplified than in the matter of the bell skirt. Long after Worth and Felix had practically abandoned it it reigned su^prcme, and one could find scarcely a single costume worn by an American that had not a bell skirt. At present tho bell, when it is used, is drawn just

as tightly over the hips, but flares much wider at tho fOet. Tho trimming of skirts grows daily. You can watch it creeping farther and farther up. Just at present it reaches tho knees, and should stop there.

There is still, however, much moro attention paid to tho corsage than to tho skirt of a gown. I saw a remarkably pretty one to-day on a young girl. It was quite elaborate for the almost plain skirt, that had simply a deep band of beaver at tho edge. The bodice had a white crepe front, with a full w|dte vel^ belt hooking in the back xjnder a k%« of ribbon. Over the front tame shbvwjkcket fronts, beaver fcolor, closely /embroidered in narrow black braid, ^d^lged with beaver. There md of embroidery at the |e of fur above. The sleeves short—first, puffs to tho cloth, then wide hanging oidered and edged with fur.

Was beck were elbow ruffles*

Irectoire bodice that I saw ar was made of black cloth, black silk spots, and had a covered with heavy black •Venetian point. The bodice ick In largo rovers over a front that was almost oomcovered by a large bow in black The sleeves were almost plain, ad simply a cuff on the style of the

for dotted white

I saw another bodice intended for a very young girL It was all white and green, which is particularly popular

combination this season, especially tor evening wear. One sees white gown® with green velvet sleeves* green gowns with a quantity of white softening their shades. It Is a remarkably pretty combination, and has another advantage— that of suiting a diversity of complcscions. Women who have not the best of skins can wear it becomingly.

This bodice was made of a fine white material, and had a pointed white belt, as wcil as a large square yoke of white. The yoke and belt, however, were closely covered with exquisite green embroidery, done in fine stitches. The oollor was the same, and three bands of

the embroidery went around the plain* lower sleeve. Pretty, fanciful rests,' to slip over dress fronts or plain bodices, are growing very popular* A very pretty one is, made of black velours and is trimmed! with beaver. The vest fronts are cutj down into narrow points that fall just below the full wide belt of the same! material. These fronts are edged withi fur, which also runs around the neck, and two large velvet buttons are fast-i ened at either side.

Some delicate ones are made in white or pale colored satins or brocades, and have short, wide-open fronts, full wide belts, and occasionally a little short pointed piece following over the top of the arm in lieu of a sleeve. They are particularly pretty in the light dainty materials.

Let me tell you of another bodice for evening wear. It is cut quite low and round. It is made of heavy green silk and has a pretty gathering of green all around the Jow cut neck. The ruffle ties in a bow at the front. There are short, green velvet puffs for sleeves, and a green velvet belt.

What a wonderful revolution the sleeve has undergone, has it not? When we compare the plain, tight-fitting one of a few years back, that had nothing to redeem it from absolute plainness, not even a shoulder puff, with the light, airy creation of to-day, with its quaint turns and curves, and puffs and gathers, and all sorts of odd fancies, we can scarcely believe they are intended for one and the same thing. The varieties never cease to come forth. Let me see—there's the high puff, the low puff, the short full puff, the leg-of-mut-ton, the Louis XIII., the 1830, the style especially designed for evening wear, the one that can only be worn with dinner dress, the one for afternoons, the one for morning, and so many others that we're perfectly bewildered. Some of them are ridiculous, but most of them are very pretty.

Take the styles for afternoon wear, for instance. It's rather difficult to describe them, and you can tell better by looking at the sketch just how they are

made. They are very graceful with their puffs, one falling in cascades and one simply joining the tight lower gleeve that 'is cut in fanciful revers and that buttons on top.

The evening sleeves are particularly dainty. The one in brocade, with the short puff caught together in a shell and with the deep lace flounce falling from it, is becoming so is the one for a dinner gown made of two puffs, the lower much shorter than the upper, and with a lace ruffle also caught up with a ribbon bow.

Then there's the one after the manner of Louis XIII., that hangs in wide, loose plaits, caught in at the elbow by a ribbon knot, and then allowed to fall as it will.

The sleeve of 1880 has a very queer, wide puff, shirred at the top and bottom, and beneath a plain, tight sleeve.

The leg-of-mutton 18S0 is very ugly. It is extremely wide, but not particularly full and not at all graceful.

A lovely sleeve for dinner dress has a short velvet flounce hanging from the Bhoulder, quite full, and embroidered at the edge and beneath, falling at the teides, but leaving the top of the arm exposed, is a gathered scarf of chiffon, which is knotted loosely at the elbow and then falls in a ruffle.

One for state occasions is made all in velvet, puffed at the shoulders, and

reaching to the wrist. It is cut open a little way and filled in with black lace. From tho side come over pieces of satin, gathered full, and joining below the elbow, caught with a jeweled buckle.

One can scarcely fail to find a style that is becoming and beautiful, and the light, dainty ones are all so graceful that It's hard to make up one's mind which to choose. But that's just what suits us It's so delightful to puzxle and worry over pretty things, trying to decide on something, and wishing we could have them all. Don't you think BO? ETA A. SCHtTBKKT.

He Mia took the Number.

"You ought to have seen that young follow travel when he left the house last night," said Mabel's younger brother at the breakfast iftble. "He struck a 3:20 gait." "No," said Mabel's pa, thoughtfully, "he didn't strike the gate at alL' He went over the fence."—Texas Siftings. tfceleae.

Maud—I went with Miss Sears to-day to look at a bedroom set it was pretty, but she wouldnt take it.

Ethel—Why not? Maud—It was too low for a xmaa to crawl under.—Truth.

A rotated SafjMllon.

He—Tour voice has such a beautiful ring to it! She—Maybe but my finger hasn't— 1 Judge. I A fttuil* la Phooittt* "Want to buy a tricycle?** "No want to try a bicycle.**—J'aty.

"noted women muj&derees.

Their Premeditated Crimea Found

the Surest Weapon in Poison.

Beauty Not Always Her Beat Lawyer— The Walkup and the Maybrick Caces— HI Mm. Wharton's Alleged Murder of Gen. Ketctaum. I

rcOPTWGHT. 1892.1

Do women often commit murder? This question was put to me apropos of the Borden trial, which is attracting such widespread interest.

Women have always been leniently dealt with, and the prisons of every state contain at least a few whose sex alone saved them from expiating crimes on the scaffold. I will pass by the women murderers who have come 'from the criminal classes, .such as the Benders of the west, the Croisettes of ParisMthe Lichtenbergs of Berlin, and a host in the Empire state. But sympathy for women murderers is dying out. Mrs. Montague, the daughter of a nobleman, is serving out a sentence for child murder in an^Irish prison, with no hope of immediate release. Mrs. Maybrick's friends find it almost impossible to secure the attention of the home secretary to her appeal for "pardon, and -U S" her fifth marital victim who aided Eyraud his awful Paris

crimes. The Maybrick case is of special interest just now, in view of tho many

MBS. WHABTON.

[efforts which are making in her behalf and which have as their prime factors 'the head, the heart and thevhandsof

Gail Hamilton, the sister-in-law of ex-

:Secretary

:tered:

James G. Blaine. The mur-

jder of her husband, James Maybrick, of iwhich she jvas convicted, occurred in "(Liverpool May 11, 1889. He was a rich [cotton merchant, and had married his iAmerican wife eight years before. At the trial, of which full details were [published throughout the civilized world, the relations of Mrs. Maybrick jto a Mr. Brierley furnished the motive jfor the crime. Those who were present when the jury, after a little more than jhalf an hour's deliberation, returned a 'verdict of guilty, say that tho pallid face ',of the convicted woman had in it a look almost of divinity. As the word "guilty" was spoken she fell forward as if struck 'by a dagger. She clutched the rail of •the dock in front of her she arose and 'broke the awful silence of that courtroom with the words, pleadingly ut-

"My lord, everything has been

iagainst me. I wish to say that, although evidence has been given as to a great

MBS. MAYBRICK.

I many circumstances in connection with Mr. Brierley, much has been withheld (which might have influenced the jury had it been told. Iam not guilty of this crime."

This was a case of murder by poison. Most instances in which women are the criminals, and where the crime is premeditated, are such, and that makes (the change in the Borden case, where a brutal mux's weapon—an ax or a hatchjet—was used, strangely inconsistent if not impossible. A woman bent on 'crime will solve the problem before her !in the easier. cccible manner. But I must go into history.

Baltimore's cause celebre was the 'trial of Mrs. Wharton, the widow of 'an army officer, who, in 1871, was accused of the murder of Gen. W. 8.

Ketchum, of the United States army. Mrs. Wharton was a woman nearly fifty years of age, an intimate friend of the general, and heavily in his debt. She was preparing for a trip to Europe, and on June 28,1871, the general came from Washington to bid her good-by and incidentally to collect the money due him. He was taken ill after leaving the house Kid died June 28. His waistcoat, containing the widow's note for the money due, was missing.

Mr. Van Ness, a man fully cognizant of the

Ska UUkU iUUJ

ever held in the country, over a hundred experts testifying pro and con concerning the effects of the poison administered. The defense claimed, in the face of the experts' examination, that death was due to cerebro-spinal meningitis.

Laura D. Fair's great crime was the fruit of her awful temper, Her victim •was A. P. Crittenden, a member of the famous Kentucky family and a distinguished lawyer!then practicing in San Francisco. Mrs, Fair was a strongminded woman, not particularly goodlooking, and infatuated with Crittenden. She had been married four times, and insisted that Crittenden should seenre a divorce from his wife and make

THJC WAY LAWYER CRITTENDEN, WAS MUBDERED. He refused, and sent for his wife, who was east. He met her on the ferryboat El Captain, in the bay of San Francisco, November 8, 1870. Hiding near at hand was Mrs. Fair. As Crittenden pressed his arms'ground his wife's form, touching her lips in welcome, the shot that ended his life rang out its death-knell, and he fell a corpse between the two women who had claimed liim. Mrs. Fair's defense was insanity, but at the first trial it was not taken into consideration, and she was found guilty of murder in the first degree. On a technicality, the verdict was set aside, and a second trial ended with acquittal.

fop his wife

The most sensational judicial murder of this country was the execution of 'Eliza Penning, in her time ono of the Imost beautiful women of London. She was scarcely eighteen when charged with poisoning the family in which she wjis a governess. It was proven conclusively that she herself had become ill from eating the poisoned food. ITer innocence was established at the trial, but the recorder, before whom the case was heard, conceived so great a prejudice that in his final charge he passed only upon the evidence adduced against her. She was credited, and as she stood robed in white on the scaffold between two old offenders who were suffering like penalty she cried out: "Before the just and Almighty God, and by the

I'lhrnilHIHimnuitMilum ELIZA PENNING ON AN ENGLISH SCAFFOLD. faith of a holy sacrament I have received, I am innocent of the offense of which I am charged."

Before the funeral it was discovered that the poison was in all likelihood (administered by a maniac who had Ibeen sheltered in the house at the time !of the poisoning. Ten thousand persons attacked the house of the prosecuting lawyer, and only a large military force prevented death and destruction by that infuriated mob. On Ithe day of the funeral half of London appeared on the streets through which Ithe cortege passed, and only the preslence of troops prevented another riot.

But legal history fairly teems with ,famous poisoning cases in which women 'have figured, and fiction stands abashed •before the complications which have at various tin!es arisen in their developIment. There is perhaps no parallel in 'this century to the awful case of the Marchioness of Bienvilliers. Having (through a lover discovered the art of Compounding the most subtle and mortal poisons, the two began their fearful career. Father, mother, sister, brothers, children, all met fearful deaths.

Jules Simon has said that a woman's beauty is her best lawyer. The remark strikes me as of telling force, when I recall some of the remarkable trials of the past in which women have figured, and again falls flat when I think of the pallid, beautiful face of Charlotte Corday on the guillotine, or of a Lizzie Fanning on an English scaffold.

Mrs. Walkup, the New Orleans belle, on trial a few years ago at Emporia,

LAURA ».

TAXtL

Kan., for the murder of her husband, Judge Walkup,

was,

is, a,

Widow's financial affairs, was case against

also taken IU at the same time and nar- lj circumstantial. The P*fP»e rowly escaped death. It wasproven that westem country still attribute aer esthe general bad died lay poisoning. Mrs.

capefrom

Wharton was acquitted of the charge of expressive face. ... poisoning Gen. Ketchum, and the But New York charge of attempting to kill Mr. Van sensational cases with which the pnbNess was never pushed. The trial was lie is more or less familiar. oerhaos one ot the most sensational

•.ygSfiiM Sal

and perhaps still

strikingly beautiful woman. The

her wasstrong, butlarg^

conviction to a marvelousiy

DaVIJO WSCSSLK*.

COST OP SINGLE LIFE.

STAYING UNMARRIED ISN'T A VERY EXPENSIVE MATTER. i.

^a~!!lofy"of

How a "Writer in Jfevr

York City Manages to Live Comfortably and Happily, Even Though She Is a Girl. Threo Girls "Who Have a Nice Home.

In these days when there is so much talk about the wisdom of a girl's marrying I like to gloat over the blessings of my maidenhood. I am not married, and I have not fallen a victim to any of the good hearted and well meaning people who are devising schemes for housing women who earn their own living. I house myself, I cannot imagine myself being roofed in a woman's apartment house by a lot of printed regulations in a gold frame. Wholesome, intelligent freedom is what I want, and what I've got, Allah be praised!

For a girl who must live inexpensively the boanling house is not to be considered. She can't get a room into which she is willing to take callers, formal or informal, for less than twelve dollars or possibly ter dollars a week south of Harlem. And I don't believe a girl can retain her health or self respect in the cheap boarding place, where the food is bad, the servants impudent, tbe whole house smelly, full of mice and disagreeable people.

A furnished room, with one's food in the lower bureau drawer, the kerosene stove and other cooking utensils stuck behind, Into and under things, is untidy in the extreme, to speak politely. The ouly really nice and satisfaptory way is for several congenial girls with interests and occupations which do not conflict to co-operatively housekeep in a pleasant fiat. I'll give you my recipe for the home life of aNew York self supporting woman. It is my own experience.

My income is precisely eleven dollars a week, and I earn every penny of it. Well, it costs me ten dollars a week for all my expenses. I have a room to myself, a kitchen and parlor at opposite ends of the establishment, and just what want and need to eat. There are cheerful, open grates in my apartments, pictures on my walls, carpets on my floors, and I am permitted to have a cat to keep the mice away.

This is how I do it all. My friends—Jeannette, a medical student, and Elsie, an artist—hire with me a furnished flat of six rooms, for which we pay forty dollars a month. I have the lightest sleeping room, for there I must convert my ideas into salable "articles," and Elsie takes a corner of the dining room, where the light is,just right for hev painting.

She answers the doorbell—I can't have the flow of my ideas interrupted by peddlers and milkmen, and Jeannette is away most of the day.

We take turns in attending tosonioc-i" the, household duties, such as sweeping and dusting. I always get the breakfast. That earns for me a quiet morning with my ideas.

We have good things to eat. There are always either baked, boiled or stewed* potatoes, cooked on the cute little kitchen range. We have grain in some form and then broiled fish usually.

The baker leaves us half a dozen fresh rolls each morning, and these with a cup of chocolate and a bit of fruit complete a breakfast upon which the girls usually compliment me. (We make it a point to say nice things to each other when we have tho opportunity.)

We don't "set" the table at noon. Each one gets her own lunch, which consists of a glass of hot malted milk, some fresh bread and butter, cheese and fruit. Elsie leaves off painting at 4:80 and gets the "heavy" part of the dinner, Jeannette prepares the dessert.

We don't often bother with soup, but we always have a roast or some special meat, potatoes of course, vegetables, a salad, dessert and each a tiny cup of black coffee. Then we take turns in disposing of the debris according to our engagements for the evening. At bedtime we each take a cup of hot milk and sleep peacefully for eight hours.

So much for the gastronomic end of the combine. Saturday evening we make it a point to stay in. Elsie reads aloud, Jeannette,, mends the family clothes and linen, I do the millinery and make furbelows. When any of us needs new headgear I stroll up Fifth avenue, pick out something pretty, go on to Sixth avenue, duplicate the materials of the original twenty-five dollar hat for four dollars. I make all the little fixings and cut and fit but the house gowns which the girls wear they sew them themselves.

Each spring arid fall we hire a woman to come to the house and make us a street dress apiece. We pay her three dollars day, and she does all three gowns in a week. These dresses cost us about eighteen dollars each and they are well made and fashionable. We have always something left over from the season before, which does for second best. Our jackets last two years. We have a couple of summer and two winter house dresses, made of inexpensive material, which easily become very effective by a touch of just the right colors in the right places. (And we change our gowns always before dinner we think we owe it to each other whether we have company or not).

Now about the actual expenses. Each of us spends $240 in six months. Onr flat, food and gas and fuel cost us each $8.50 a week: Flat, food, etc. .$168 00 Jacket $7 SO Street dress..... 18 00 Car fAre,farbe-

Shoes.. Gloves. House dresses..

600

Of course we have to shampoo our own hair, do our own manicuring, and all such things. Our magazines and books all come from the library, but we buy the newspapers.

And that is the way we girls live—very lavishly, very comfortably. We find plenty of opportunity to practice the golden rule, but it is good discipline. We try always to be cheerful and to meet our obligations promptly.

It costs me just ten dollars a week for tbe privilege of remaining single, and If I choose to save up my extra money for—why, even for a trouweau, that is my own affair. —Margery Daw in New York Press.

how

to State a Floor. 'r'-

The labc? of staining a floor is not very great, and as no particular skill is required the boys of tbe family might be allowed to use np their superfluous energy in this way. By sitting on a low stool and paint* Ing one boaxd at a time, lengthwise of the board# and using a large brush, a good sized room may soon be covered. Allow it to dry well before putting on a second con*, and this in tarn before shellacking, and let twenty-four hours at least elapse before using the room utter the final coat.—Christian Union.

THE MOST STUBBORN Skin and Scalp Diseases, the worst forms of Scrofula, all blood-taints and poisons of every name and nature, are utterly rooted out by Dr. Pierce's Golden Medical Discovery. For every disease caused by a torpid liver or impure blood, it is the only remedy so certain and effeotive that it can be ffitaranteed. If it fails to benefit or cure, you have your money back.

Eczema, Tetter, Salt-rheum, Erysipelas, Boils, Carbuncles, Enlarged Glands, Tumors, and Swellings, and eveiy kindred ailment, are completely and permanently cured by it.

UC Mluoil hi* Opportunity! DON'T MIm

lit

IToura, Header. Tio mnjorily ncglect their opportunities, ami from iliat cmnellvo In poverty nnd dip in obscurltTI Harrowing despair tlio lot of many, ns they look buck on lost, Ibrovorlost. opportunity. I .life l« Ing! Roach out. Be up and doine. Improveyour opportunity, and lecure prosperity, prominence, peace. 11 was said byaplil sopher, that "the Uodduss of Fortune offers golucn opportunity to oach pnrson at some period of life embrace tne chance, and she pours out lifer ricncs fr.il to do •o and she departs, n«fr to rotnrn." Mow shnll you And the ooldkn opportunity? Investigate ivery chance that appears worthy, and of fair promise that is what all suo* cessfttl mon do. II ere is an opportunity, such as is not often within the roach n| laboring people. 1 mproved, it will give, at least, a grand start in life. Tfie cut.DKs opportunity for many is here. Money to be made rapidly and honorably by any industrious poreon of either sex. All nprea. on can do the work atid live at home, whorover von uro. Even beginners nro OHslly earning from to #10 per dny. You can do as well if you will work, not too lmrd, out iiidustri onsly andyou can incroase yonr Income ns you goon. Yon can give spare tlrno only, or all yonr time to the work. Easy to learn. Capital not ronulrod. Wo start yon. All Is com* paratively new and really wonderful. We instruct and •how vou how.

(Vee.

rtiftiiro unknown among our work-

era. ho room to explain liuro. Write by return mail, unwlso to delay. Aililrecsatonco.lt.tVe£,allloarnand Slullett Co., llox 88O, Portland, Maine.

no YOU

COUGH,

DON'T DELAY-1

KEMPS

BALSAM

THE

Uln ears for Oonaumption in first sta get, and a Bare relt«f In advanced

stage*

ono«. Ton will

lows and ac-

000 8 00

Total.

38 60

9&0 00

see thi

ezoellent effeot after taking the first do«e. Sell by dealers ercry whore. Largo boitiss, 60 sent* and 11.00,

PILES

RemedyFree. INSTANT RFLUF, Final

cure tn ludayn.Neviir rulurrif., no purgo: nosttivo: no suppository. A victim trior) in vain Overy rom dy linn dUoovnrod a

simp'o euro, whioh he will mail frt?« to hlnfollow mifforors. Address i.II.ItKKVKH,tint V.irL ni.v.N.V.

oawuxnueufe jucgiubivo wrnwi

Largestjfrrawow of N arsery stock. Clean, name. Fairtroatmoutr*'""-truostock,nardy anteod. Liberal commission to looal part time agoata.

•We

?nn In-1,

tercet any

ono not earn- ll

^Ing 175 per month I! and expense*. Dp" hceitato botwu® ot JE£ *tot» failures In th

lfcss#siaa^!^ssaffi\.

pamphlet of Information and ab-j Wractof tbo laws, Showing How

to/'

Obtain Patents, Cavoals, Trnde/ ^Marks, Copyrights, uni frtt./ vAddm* MUNN A OO.Jt ^301 BroiMlw&y,

New York.

acc&S,

WHERE DOLLARS ARE MADE ?!^«SSSS^«5BSSSSraG!

BAMA, MIH8I8H1PPI,and I/ll.'frtlANA OirfrKBS O HEATER OPPOKTUMT1BS TO

SETTLERS, MANUFACTURERS&GENERAL BUSINESS ENTERPRISE

than any other part of the U.8., va*t bodlenof

Coal. Iron, Timber & Farm Lands

A!AO THOUBANCH of ACRES of LONG LEA YELLOW Fl N for sale cheap. Tbln road rue* through the thriving towrs of

Lexington,

Danville, and Homereet, Ky.

Kockwood,Barriman. and Cbalanooga,Tenn Ft. Payne, A Malta, Birmingham, and Tuncaiooca, Ala.: Meridian. HaUleabui*. Jack«on andVlckKburfc. Mias. New Orleans, Delhi, Monroe, and Bbreveport, La. Some of tbe new town* win donate money and land to locatemfliioraetnrlngeiaterprtiiea.

The R. H. Co. will make low rate« for Pa*aeoger* and Freight, and afford investor* every opportunity to examine the different localities. Jf nweasary, will send a representative with the party.

Foil pwrtleaiar*. andany required Informatfots, will iKSMmi r»y mail on application to

c! KOUUV Cl&OlN NATI. O.