Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 23, Number 22, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 19 November 1892 — Page 6

U-fc' l1

The Empire as Seen in tho New Evening Gowns.

It* Diversified Fornjg—Some Ureases tut Finished—Brocades and New Silk*—A Magnlilcent Dinner Dre»s—Pearl

Passementeries. "a

ICOFYKIGHT. 1892.1

There is no golden mean in the evening robes this winter. Yon may either look delightfully simple, girlish and unassuming, or particularly magnificent, regal, impressive. This is the ,beauty of the empire. If desired, no style can be made to look richer, handsomer, more overawing but if you yearn for sweet simplicity, behold it in the empire, with its soft, fine effects.

Never did I see this more strikingly exemplified than at the moment when I looked at two evening toilets, lying side by side in a fashionable modiste's. Both had an empire touch, and yet one

SIMPLE EVENING DKE88.

was all lightness and delicacy, the other all splendor and magnificence. The first was in pale water green satin, cut low and square, and fitted closc to the figure. Over it hung loosely, or floated—as they say so much tnore expressively in French—a tunic of teream lace. The delicato edge of it stood up above the decollete corsage, and just beneath lay a band of rosebuds the buds went up over the shouljders as well, and around the edge of the jlace at the foot High-standing, short lace ruffles formed the sleeves.

The second was velvet, rich black -velvet, and was cut in a deep, rounding point at the neck. Immense shot jvelvet puffs for sleeves, and a long, full train added to the rich effect, which ,was slightly toned, however, by an em'piro cloak in cream lace that partially icovercd it. The cloak was fastened to the low-cut neck in front,/but then jswept away on either side so completely that none of it could be seen in front isave its largo scalloped edge. It covered tho train, however, almost completely. A dull gold passementerie Ibelt clasped tho black volvet. "A woman with most magnificent skin," said tho groat personage who Iliad designed tho gown, "will wear that dress. She will not wear a single lornamcnt with it, and tho effect of tho [black velvot will only bo enhanced by !the absence of jewels. "Tho lace tunics and overdresses are jvery popular. Ever so many women ihave brought dresses from Paris this lyear with these looso lace effects. IT licy're of ton very deceptive and lend beauty to tho dress underneath, which •doesn't merit it."

Then she showed me another, cu$ in the style of 1SS0, which is also bei^g [successfully revived. All wo seem to care about at present is to find out what our great-grandmothers wore, and pro,ceed to copy as closely as possible. It is to be hoped that we confiuo ourselves .simply to copying gowns. For if wo

TUB MP IKK AND LACE TUNIC.

over take to the

quaint

old bonnets of

those days, woe be unto us! There would be no hope for us then. I trow. The dresses are pretty and very becoming but what about the bonnets? From what I have seen of them, I should sa.v it was almost hopeless trying to look anything but hideous or ridiculous in one of them.

The 1SS0 dress was very youthful looking. It was a dinner dress for a very young girl and was made of light China blue foulard. Three ruffles In uiousselino do soi, finely embroidered in gold thread, adorned the skirt. The ruffles were so far apart that the top one came within twelve inches of the narrow gold belt, that had little pendants in wrought gold at the clasp. The ruffle at the edge was a tiny one the one about twelve inches above considerably deopcr—I should say about* six inches: no was the top one. A berthc of this same laec went around the low neck, and the short "bell sleeves had la^e ruiftea also.

By this time I was so interested in evening gowns that I wanted to see more, and so I betook roe to another place. Having expressed my harmless desire, there was brought out for ray

inspection a beautiful ball tiress that I fell quite in love with.

xIt was

pale

corn yellow, made of beng-aline, and 1 in a particularly simple sty?©- At the edge of the skirt there was no adornment, a fact that I noted with a little surprise. The yellow was simply turned in a deep hem. At the top of I the hem, however, was a garland of roses, strung alone, with no stems or leaves. These were very pale—just a touch of yellow in their centers. The roses hung in scallops all abound- At the edge of the bodice they were laid, also this bodice was cut off perfectly straight, from shoulder to shoulder, back and front, but not very low, and had short bell-puffed sleeves. The yellow belt, which was simply ribbon knotted and' hanging in streamers in front, was covered at the knot by more roses.

Then I looked at materials—such beautiful ones they were. First of all •was the new one from Paris, called on dine. Though it has quite a different name, in appearance it is considerably like bengaline. It has a wavy, heavy satin thread running through it, like a cord flattened out. Then, of course, there is

Always

brocade, beautiful, fas

cinating brocade, with its, delicate gold embroidery and exquisite design ,and coloring. I saw some combinations, too, of a single-colored silk or brocade combined with a satin stripe that ]haa small flower or leaf patterns in it. One was particularly beautiful—a dullblue brocade with large ivy leaves closely wrought all over. The beauty lay more in tho thickness and luster of the silk, I fancy, than in anything else, but I stood quite overawed before it.

I saw a brocade dinner gown, too, that impressed me wonderfully. It was a green, and a fine gold thread outlined the palm leaf design in it. It was cut .princess and had a lace front that was gathered closely together at the top of

vthe

decollete bodice, but spread out wider and wider as it fell over a rosecolored satin front. Velvet sleeve puffs the shade of the gold in the brocade were caught around above the elbow by pearl embroidered passementerie, and three strings of pearls adorned the bodlice's front, caught up in the center by a gold clasp. The dress was most lovely.

Passementeries form a more important factor in gowns than ever before. 'They grow richer and more expensive daily. One may spend a small-sized fortune in passementerie for one gown if

VS THE 8TYXJE OF 1880.

one is inclined to be extravagant. The favorite for fine gowns is pearl in many shapes and forms in many colors. Cream, pale blue, delicate green and rose color are often all found in a few inches, and lavender and gold as welL From a solid pearl groundwork fall pearl ornaments in pretty shapes, all so fine and lovely that one is tempted to indulge in some of this trimming, no matter what the cut may be. Passementerie is one of the things we never secure at a bargain. There's no use waiting for the season to grow old, for the trimming will never grow cheap. So if you've made up your mind to have it, get it now before your neighbor or your dearest friend buys the very pattern you have set your heart upon.

Eva A. SCHUBERT.

GRACE DARLING'S JUBILEE.

English Papers Are Starting a Movement to Celebrate It.

A suggestion has just been made in the columns of a Korthumberland paper which, in the opinion of the London Globe, deserves sympathetic consideration. On the 20th of next October fifty years will have elapsed since the death of Grace Darling, daughter of the Outer Farne lighthouse-keeper. It is not necessary to recount the story of her heroic exploit on the occasion of the wreck of the steamship Forfarshire in September, 1838, which resulted in the raising of a subscription of seven hundred pounds sterling, and in many offers being made to advance her position in life. Grace Darling, however, refused to leave her own people, and four years later died of consumption in her seagirt home. She is buried'in the churchyard of Bamborough, beneath a tomb which has been raised so it can be seen from the sea. "Every schoolgirl," writes Robert Bums to the Alnwick Gazette, "has heard the name of Grace Darling, but her deed lies now so far back in the past, and some day it may be forgotten. I cannot help thinking that as the fiftieth anniversary of her death will be this year, it would be a fitting occasion to raise a national memorial to her." We took occasion mt very longago to call attention to the Somersetshire Valhalla initiated by E, A. Kinglake, which has grown to such goodly proportions that the vestibule of the Shire hall in Taunton is filled with statues of the illustri- f* ous dead. It seems to us that Mr.

Burns' proposal aIfc an excellent opportunity

fur the staling

82# iHKt

CATHOLIC CONCLAVE.

ing- Questions of the Hoi

!*,•

Itw School Problem and t# Compromise Which Will Undoubtedly Be Reached—One Striking Figure r? uiuing from the Council.

[COPYRIGHT, 1892.1

When the archbishops of the United States gather in annual conclave this week at the archi-Episcopal residence

But the latter comes not as the minister pletipotentiary of the pope. That mistaken notion seems to have gained a strong foothold, notwithstanding the official announcement that the archbishop of Lepanto, the monseigneur, simply represented the pope at the dedication services in Chicago, with

1. Archbishop Janssens, of New Orleans, La. 2. Archbishop P. W. Riordan, of San Franclsoo, CaL 8. Arohblshop J. Ireland, of St Paul, Minn. 1 4. Archbishop Gross, of Oregon City, Ore.

supplementary powers "to visit and observe." So his presence at the conference will be merely in the capacity of honored guest, with no right of discussion or decision.

These annual meetings of archbishops were decided upon at the centennial conclave in Baltimore. They are secret, the cardinal presiding and one of the archbishops acting as secretary. But there are burning problems to be solved, problems which have divided the Catholic priesthood into hostile camps, even the decision of the pope having been differently interpreted by the factions. So it lies with the archbishops to decide the school question the question of permitted secret soci-

1. Archbishop Williams, of Boston, Mass. 2. Archbishop Corrigan. of New York, N. Y. S. Archbishop Elder, of Cincinnati, O. 4. Archbishop Salpointe, of Santa Fe, N. M.

eties and possibly the establishment of a consistory court to settle minor disputes in the church.

But the school question, with Archbishop Ireland on the liberal side and Archbishop Corrigan on the other, with the cardinal inclining to the former, the priesthood generally to the latter, with the people plainly on the side of the New York archbishop, and the interpretation of a Latin phrase in his decision the only hope of the Minnesota prelate, is to be finally solved.

The question narrowed down is the popularizing of the Catholic parochial schools, and on this rock the priesthood

1. Archbishop Keartcfe, of St Loals. 2ta S. Archbishop Feel»m of Chicago, Bi 1 Archbiabop Ucim, o* MOwsafce* Wis. 4. Archbishop Ry*a, of Philadelphia, Pa.

of a similar has lodged, whether for wreck or safety

institution in Northumberland. It remains to be seen. 4 would be difficult to inaugurate a I have been given the following inNorthumberlane Valhalla more fitly spired utterance, which embodies, with* than by the of a statue to out a question, the compromise which Grace O&rUnr i-V humble heroine who honored ail vvy manhood by her devoted courage.

will be adopted by the archbishops "A fair contract between the authorities presiding-over the parochial schools

and the. state authorities will embody the following conditions: Firstly, autonomy of the denominational schools, i.e., right to choose their own teachers, but only among those who have qualified before a state or mixed board. Secondly, the doors of the schoolroom to be always opened, "both to ecclesiastical and to the secular inspectors. Thirdly, the right to examine the students, in secular branches, to belong to state or manicipal officials in religious matters to ecclesiastical authorities. Fourthly, programme and text books to be agreed upon amicably. Fifthly, the civil power to support the schools and pay the

in New York, one striking figure will be missing and the influence of one teachers, or at least to contribute for strong mind will be lacking. A year the purpose an amount corresponding ago, ce to the age of Arcb-

His Eminence, Cardinal Gibbons, Archbishop ol Baltimore, Md.

"bishop Kenrick, of St. Louis, the heads Of the Catholic church in America gathered for discussion at his residence. This year the venerable St. Louis prelate will be missing from the council, and t.hiR will leave but twelve American representatives in the conclave, the papal representative, Monseigneur Sa tolli, making the fatal thirteenth.

to school tax paid by the parents of the pupils." Discussing this compromise^ a person high in authority gives out this utterance: "Notwithstanding the fairness of these conditions, the temper necessary to grant them has not yet become prevalent in this country. Many years will probably elapse before we can hope to obtain them, and nothing but self-sacrifice will triumph over prejudices which are so deeply rooted. In the meantime, the wisest as well as the most righteous policy is to carry out fully and faithfully the legislation adopted by the national councils and sanctioned by the hoty see."

But the second question is of almost equal importance. Two great societies, of which Catholics are members, will, in all likelihood, be placed under the ban of the church. These are the Sons of Temperance and the odd fellows. The discussion as to the nature of these societies was long and bitter, but no decision was reached. It is likely that a number of other organizations will be classed with those condemned by the church.

The establishment of the consistory court may be discussed, but final decision will probably not be given this year. The main idea underlying this court is to settle disputes between bishops and priests—disputes which now invariably go to Rome and clog the wheels of the greatest and oldest judicial tribunal known, that of the Propaganda Fide.

But I learn on the highest authority possible in this country that Monseigneur Satolli has not the power to establish this court, but simply the delegated authority to decide disputes if called upon by the parties in controversy.

AVho will be the third American cardinal? His name will be sent to Rome before two" weeks have past, and there are those who believe it will be the greatest orator in the Catholic church of America, Archbishop Ireland. Pope Leo has been exceedingly anxious to establish one more American seat in the college of cardinals, and the vote of the archbishops will decide upon the favored one in their midst.

The Dr. McGlynn case will not come up for reconsideration. There will be striking figures in the gathering of archbishops. The cardinal who will preside is not yet sixty, a young man, as cardinals go. He is a marvelous pulpit orator, a man of splendid executive ability, and a writer of wonderful force. His "Faith of Our Fathers" has reached a sale of a quarter of a million.

Archbishop Ireland is fifty-four years old, a man of striking personality and with the oratorical powers of a Daniel Webster.

Archbishop Patrick Feehan, of Cincinnati, stands six feet five inches in height. He is built proportionately, and is a forcible speaker. Archbishop Ryan, of Philadelphia, is almost the equal of Archbishop Ireland as an orator. Archbishop Heiss, of Milwaukee, is the most recent addition to the college of archbishops.

AN OPTION ON A VOLCANO.

A Former Mexican Coaanl Will Try to Utilize the Crater of Popocatepetl.

Maurice Rahden, formerly consul of Mexico at Kansas City, has secured an option on the volcano of Popocatapetl, the property of Gen. Gasper Sanchez Ochoe, who is at present operating the immense sulphur deposit in the crater, supplying sulphur for the manufacture of powder for the army. Even is at present operated, on a small scale and without modern machinery, the property pays a good profit. The Pittsburgh Dispatch learns that it is contemplated to build an electric railway up the volcano, connecting a few miles from the base with the Interoceanic rail way. The electric railway will be utilized for bringing down the sulphur. The quality of the Popocatapetl sulphur is excellent, and, if mined in large quantities, would find a ready market in the United States, which imports over one hundred and twenty thousand tons of this article yearly, largely from Sicily, the entire annual importation being rated by the American treasury at two million four lmndred and fifty thousand dollars. If the plans of Mr. Rahden and his associates are carried to completion the country will gain another large industry. The sulphur of the volcano was utilized by Cortez for making powder for his troops.

Baron von Humboldt in his "New Spain," says: "Speaking at'the same time of the tin of Tasco, which was used in founding the first cannon, Cortez remarks that he is in no want of sulphur for the manufacture of powder because a Spaniard drew some from a mountain, which is perpetually smoking, by going down tied to a rope to the depth of from seventy to eighty fathoms." He adds that this manner of procuring sulphur was vary dangerous and on that account it would be better to procure it from Sevilla. A document preserved in the family of the Montanos and which Harris nal

Lorenzana affirms he once had

in his hands, proves that the Spaniard of whom Cortez speaks was named Francisco Moctano. There is much more curious information regarding this early procurement of sulphur by Cortez, for which we have no space. j. .5

ean'l.

remedy

Doctor—Yes. Try to keep awake. Pack.

WOMEN OF FRANCE.

"If mm

DIRECT THE. MEN IN, ITIGS AND BUSINESS,-

Who Enjoy Pleasure.

£OL*J

Sow the Wife of a Frenchman Differs from the Better Half of an Englishman—They Are a Light Hearted Class of Beings

You have asked me to write a "short paper on the Frenchwoman and her leading characteristics. The most salient appear to me to be purpose, capacity for straightforward action, and, what may seem discrepant with it, adaptability and diplomatic tact. The Frenchwoman is at once willful and flexible. She readily stoops to conquer, and is prone to make tho best of adverse circumstances fron^ which there is no escaping but through patient effort. All this induces a cheery, practical philosophy, which is common in Frauce to both sexes. The willfulness I speak of is combined with and kept outwardly in check by natural tact. If her sympathies are quick her head is cool. It is a pity that they are not wider, they being in general wholly spent on members of the immediate family-circle.

It seems to me that the English woman has a larger and a kinder heart for outsiders than her French sister, who hardly cares for any one beyond tho family circle. All her energies are spent on personal and family objects, but on chiefly the latter. Her ideal of love is not a sentimental one, but it is healthy, and squares well with the circumstances that mainly jcovern the French people. It would not suit her to bo enshrined as an idol, and to have incense burned before her, on the condition that she was not to step down from her niche to take the rough aud smooth as they occur in life. Her instinct urges her to be tho helpmate, companion and indeed the comrade of the man with whose lot hers is linked.

Mine. Boucicault was a bright example of what, in France, feminine activity can accomplish when brought into a matrimonial partnership. That great and good woman was associated neither more nor less with her husband in his commercial affairs than thousands of other women are with theirs. He followed the custom of his country in fostering her genius for business and in co-operating with her in every way she wanted, whether to buy, to sell, to make ventures, and he was better than most men in not checking her beneficent impulses. In respect of having such impulses and letting them influence her conduct, she was a splendid exception. Those husband and wife partnerships, so frequent in France, are delightful for those engaged in them, and a cause of wealth and weal to the nation. They area source of much honest and diglit hearted companionship between the two sexes, and promote serious activity in both.

There is no more attractive aspect of married life than that presented on Sundays and holidays in front of cafes and restaurants in fine weather by French couples. One sees that tho wife has entered thoroughly into the life of. her hus-, band. Their chit chat is mutually stimulating. He enjoys her clever babble. Hard conditions of life (for the rich seldom make holiday in this manner) have brought home to them the advantages of being united. In their struggle to wiifindependent means they have constantly looked to each other for support and sympathy, but the man more to the woman than the woman to the man.

Englishmen in business do not let their Wives know what trade risks they are running or what dangers are ahead. Nothing of this kind is kept from the Frenchwoman by her matrimonial partner. She is in many cases the chief business person of tho firm. Thus the wife of the artist takes uporr herself the whole commercial work of the association, drawing buyers to the studio, calling on journalists who may help him to climb to fame, making out bills, and to the best of her ability freeiug her partner from the prose of life to allow him to devote himself entirely to his art. Her diplomatic cleverness is taxed in hunting after the cross of the Legion of Honor for him. Sir Joshua Reynolds regarded a promising painter who got married as lost to art, or, at any, rate, certain never to bo famous. The converse view is taken in Paris. The wife looks better than the husband could for investments for his earnings. Mine. Coquclin invests all the money made by tho famous actor, who calls her his chancellor of the exchequer,

The French woman can finesse, and understands that every truth is not to be blurted out. Still there is a splendid frankness in the way in which she goes forward on whatever path she is following. That sort of snobbishness that Thackeray tried to write down has no hold on her. No attempt is made by her to pass herself off for having a larger income than she really enjoys. I have often admired the freedom from snobbish pretension of the wife of manyn young professional man, anrf have known some such who were qualified by good looks, education and fairly good dowries to play ornamental parts in life. But they preferred to throw in their lots with those of struggling men of ability, who, if rich in well founded hopes of succeeding in their respective walks of life, were far too poor to keep up a genteel establishment.

What do you think of the highly accomplished wife of a rising young barrister who may any day come forward as a candidate for parliament preparing and serving a dinner for a dozen friends and playing the part of hostess with a good grace? There was no bungling in either the cooking or the service, nor any crossness or flurry. The husband, 1 may add, helped in many ways before the guests arrived. I was asked for a particular reason to come early, and I found him laying the cloth. He arranged prettily the butter and radishes and ran out on errands. Some of the most famous persons In Europe were expected. One was the illustrious German chemist, Hoffman, and the other an able Italian statesman.—Paris Cor. St. Louts Republic.

The Cookbook Pest.

Allied closely to the ladies of the jersey and seven cent skirt nuisance is the inexpensive "cookbook" writing pest, who tells you how to manage an excellent dinner for twenty-five cents, and then proceeds to enumerate five dollars' worth of material to do It with. "Take the roast duck left from yesterday's dinner," begins ope of these inexpensive formula}. As if yesterday's duck did not Involve an expenditure at the start, and as if today's liver, for instance, would not be cheaperf "Make your butcher give yon all the scraps belonging to yon when you

buy a

joint.'*

Xh« Frerer*Uy of 2r*t«re. direction. It takes time to stood over Victim

Insomnia—I try to go to butchers asd itmke them do things, and sleep, bnt I

Can't yoa give me a housekeepers who

Bjiap

'That Is another senseless

get up

twenty-five

cent

that will make me sleep? {dinners hare to be at home washing o,p Fall particulars, aud any required informatheir kitchens and paring potatoes and Hon, will be #ent by mull on application to "filch."—Chicago Post.

THE GETTING IT DOWN is bad enough, with the ordinary pill. But the having it down is worse. And, after all the disturbance, there's only a little temporary good. from beginning to end, Dr. Pierce's Pleasant Pellets are better. They're the smallest and easiest to take tiny, sugar coated granules that any child is ready for. Then they do their work so easily and so naturally that it lasts. They absolutely and permanently CUM Constipation, Indigestion, Bilious Attacks,

Bick and BiliousHeadaches, and all derangements of the liver, stomach and bowels. They're gniam«iecd to give satisfaction, or your money is returned.

THE MAKEKS of Dr. Sage's Catarrh Remedy say: "If we can't cure your Catarrh no matter what your case is, we'll pay you $500 in cash." Now you can see what, is said of other remedies, aud dccide which is most likely to cure you. Costs only 50 cents.

llC Missed ht» Opportunity! BO^'T Ml« lit "fours, Itemler. Tl.o majority nogloct their opportunities, mtd from tlnil c«n»o live in povtsrty Rtnl dio la obscurity! llnrrowing dospnir is tho lyt of ninny, they look back on lost, forever lost, opportunity. I.ltbUpiws. Inge! Reach out. Be up nnd doing. Improve your opportunity, and secaro prosperity, proinTncnci'. ponco. It was Bald by a phllosoi titer, that "tho (Soddess of Kortuno offors a golden opportunity to encli person ntsomo norlod of life embrace tuo clianco, and she pours out hor rlcWa fail to do so and she departs, neccr to rotnrn." llovr shall yon find the

GOLDEN

opportunity? Investigate every chanco that

appears worthy, nnd of foir pronil-o Umt is what all successful men do. More is an opportunity, such at is not often within tho roach ot laboring pcoplo. Improved, it will gW#, at least, a grand start In life. The

GOI.DKN

opportunity for

many is hero. Money to bo made rapidly nnd honorably by any industrious person of either sex. All agos. You can do tho work nnd live at home, whorovor yon lire. Kven be* ginnors aro onsilv earning from SS to #tO per day. Yoa dui

Oni

can do as well if you will'work, not too hard, but industri otisly and you can incroase your tncomoasyongoon. Yoa can glvospnretimo only, or all your lino to the work. Easy to learn. Capital not required. Wo ntnrt von. All is com* paratively new and ronlir wonderful. \Ve instruct and show yon how. fk*ec. Failure unknown among onr workers, So to explain hero. Write nnd loam all ft'ce,

SnllcttroomCo.,

return matt. Unwiso to dolay. Address at once. It. Bex SSO, Portland, Mulne,

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RemedyFreo. INSTANT RELIEF. Final curu ill lUdny*.Nover roltirna no (iiirgi*: nonaivo: no suppository. Aviotiin trimi in vain every rora'dy Iiah a

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WHERE DOLLARS ARE MADE

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The R. R. Co. will make low rate* for Paa•enger* and Freight, and afford Investors every opportunity to examine the different localities. If accessary, will send art-presen-rtattve with the party.

EDWARDS, G. P. & T. A*t~ Q, & a Route, CISOlNNATI, O.

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