Saturday Evening Mail, Volume 23, Number 18, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 22 October 1892 — Page 6
WSSSKBSB^
WOMAN OF FASHION.
The Gay Panorama Seen on Matinee Day.
"What Sort of C'.owns Women Aro Wear» inj?—Some Qocer Combinations in Color —Somo f-cnsoaable Advice to Puzzled Womankind.
{COPYRIGHT. 18£!.1
Have you ever stood and watched thfc •"brilliant throng of matinee-goers on a bright October afternoon? No? Have 'yon never seen the gay procession pass* •ing Broadway and Madison square? "You may come, then, and take yotur istand right here, where it's a trifle sejcluded and where nobody will suspect we're taking notes. Now, isn't it pretr 'ty? To be sure, a cultivated taste •might be offended by some of the outex combinations but then, if one does not particularize, but is content to survef
THE HELIOTROPE DIRECTOIBE REDINGOTE.
|the panorama as a -whole, one Is pretty sure to be charmed, to be interested, to ibe almost fascinated by the sight. I Iknow that it is one wo women never jtire of, and one which, I believe, the •men take still more delight in—judging jfrom the appearance of club windows— 'in spite of their protestations against the present ridiculous stylea Even a (fashion writer who never does anything jor goes anywhere without giving twojthirds of her attention to what the women are wearing, and only the rejroaining third to what may be going on, is still ablo to view a throng of brightly dressed women without weariness.
But we are letting the people pass without looking at them. That will !never do. This fair lady, for instance, !in the striped black and white satin ia worthy of mention. Tho stripes are •fine and hang straight, and she has thrco little satin ruffles at the edge of tho skirt—two black and a white one (between. Her bodice has a pretty iyoke of satin that has a much broader istripe, which runs across instead of [down. Tho little friend that walks be'sido her wears along Russian blouse oi jdarkest purple, not quite tho royal ishade—a little darker. Sho is so short and tho blouse is so long that the skirt ibeneath is scarcely seen. Tho royal efjfect of tho purple is heightened by a jmassive gold belt which sparkles where [tho sunlight catches it. The edge of [the blouse and tho neck are profusely adorned with gold and silver passementeries. Tho girl might look queenly if sho were only tail, but alas! I'm afraid sho only looks a trifle ridiculous.
What do you think of this woman just behind? Suroly she is regal enough in Jhcr black velvet bodice, with that yoke !nll set in rhinestones. Let me see how many are there? Twelvo rows across both back and front, ten in each lino. That makes two hundred and forty. Then there aro a few more on each shoulder. No wonder sho scintillates and sort of dazzles one. Does she look pretty? Well, not exactly only startling.
Hero's a girl that really does look •well. Her dress is of some vory soft material—we're too far away to see what—of a pale gray shade. It clizigs,
SCAKLKT AST) JET VTRAT.
»nd very closely. There's a dainty puff of pure white velvet at the skirt's edge the bodice of gray turns back on Immense revers of white velvet, and has & narrow white chiffon front. Her big hat of white beaver is all plumes and aigrettes and velvet—everything the one spotless color, not even a touch of gray or of gold.
Her companion to robed all in greenno, not quite all, there are a few touches of black about her. The green skirt is velours, and opens in front over a green satin of the same dark ishade, trimmed with black passementerie bands. Her bodice also turns back from a vest of green satin, in re vers of the same. Her empire belt is of black velvet, and the very short and full cape, with deep turned down collar, Is almost covered by black passementeries.
But, ohl just look at this nest gay figure) Isn't she bright, though? Her gown—or all there is to be seen cf it—is quiet enough, with ita moire and "ratio stripe In black, and ita three tiny ruffles fit the edge, Bat just look at her long cape, in the brightest of scarlets one
?Y*
/",
ever saw. It's most pretty at the neck, too, quite unique, with its high black lace collar that meets the lace raffle laid around the neck and falling over the shoulders. In the front, you see, this lace is brought all the way down to the edge of the cape in fancy (gathers, but in the back, now that she has passed, we see that it is only laid around once, and that the collar and the ruffle are united by a fine jet ornamentation. The back of the wrap has also two wide bands of jet which stand out well on the bright scarlet.
Here comes a pretty blonde in turquoise blue and dark green. Have you seen the new green and blue combinations? There area great many of them, and they strike you first as being rather queer but after you've looked at them awhile you begin to feel reconciled, and to think that perhaps after all they may be pretty. But this girl hasn't any of these new shades her gown is a pale turquoise, and is richly trimmed with a broad band of dark green ostrich feathers. There is a good deal of the ribbon arrangement on the waist, very much after the summer style, and a watteau back of blue trailing only slightly, and almost covered up by the broad edges of a dark green ribbon bow. Her hat is very tiny, ail made up of forget-me-nots. Her costume isn't quite the thing for Broadway in the afternoon, but she seems oblivious of this, and saunters carelessly along, letting her train drag whithersoever it wilL
Another violet costume. What's the matter? Has purple suddenly become the style without anyone knowing it? It's a redingote directoire, this one, all in velvet, and opens in the back over a bengaline of faint Nile green. We can catch a glimpse of a small ruffle at the bottom, caught with a fine roll of green crepe. The front, too, is the same delicate shade, and has a bodice that seems to be all crepe, confined at one side in a great gold buckle. The redingote has a short pelerine, that stands very high at the shoulders, in consequence of the full velvet sleeves beneath. How the people do stare at herl No wonder she gets Impatient at the little dog who refuses to keep pace I with her quick, rather reckless step, and ixo wonder the color mounts to her 'cheek as she gives his chain an angry 'pulL Who could be calm and unflurried, should like to know, robed thus on a 'crowed thoroughfare? Even her hat Is dark violet with pale green tips and gold ornaments.
Ahl here come two bright-looking maidens. They're sisters, one can tell by looking them both dark, both warmly tinted. The one nearest us is the more attractive. She is robed in a stone-colored gown lightly dotted with dull pink, and touches of pink come out 'all over her. There's a dull pink ruffle Ion her skirt there are great dull pink and stone-colored bows on her shoul-
TWO NEW BODICES.
ders there's a pointed bodice of dull pink and stone-striped ribbon, and her •hat has one touch of pink velvet a trifle 'brighter, set in a mass of stone color. In her hand she carries an immense bunch of pink roses. How fair and fresh sho looks don't you think so?
Her sister serves as a good foil, with her dark olive dress that hae stripes shading off into black and her black hat.
And now, after looking at all these, can you tell what is the style? It Is a question that is just now puzzling a great many people, and people, too, that ought to know. One says it's Russian, another says it's empire, another freely acknowledges that she doesn't know. And this last, having thus sensibly made up her mind, proceeds to select from the numerous fads and fancies those things which shall best suit the particular gown she is making for a partictilar person.
And that, my fair reader, is precisely what I should advise you to da If you think the empire or one of its numerous modifications will be most becoming to you, you are perfectly safe in getting it. If you prefer a Russian blouse, you will not be a bit old-fash-ioned in wearing that and you may select almost any fantasie from any costume you see, and adapt it to another, so long as it be done gracefully and in good taste. It's a broad field, and you may gather a great deal of material, only use common sense in combining it.
Eva. A. Schpbkrt.
Buttou ud Combs Made of Blood. There is a large factory at a small town near Chicago employing about 100 to 150 workers, which la wholly given over to the manufacture of useful articles from waste animal blood. At certain seasons of the year this unique factory uses from 10,000 to 15,000 gallons of fresh blood per day. It is first converted into thin sheets by evaporation and certain chemical processes, and afterwards worked up into a variety of useful articles, such as oombs, buttons, earrings, belt claspa, bracelets, eta Tons of these articles are sent to all parts of the world every year from this "bloody** Sucker state manufactory.
Mlwoturl Monstrosities.
Missouri City, Mx, has a cat with eight legs and four tails Moberly, Mo., has an albino with pink eyes and white, kinky hair Springfield, Mo., has a 10-ycar-old boy who weighs 180 pounds and has two extra fingers and two extra toes a Daviess county (Mo.) farmer has some com seventeen feet six inches high*eleven feet to the first ear aBates county (Mo.) fanner has some squashes that weigh more than 100 pounds each. It's a great season for freaks in old Missouri iroi
Frank (tenderly)—What would you say If 1 asked you to many me? May (coldly)—Just as little as possible,—Puck,
feffiE HAUTE SATURDAY EVENING MAIL
NATIONAL CAMPAIGNS.
The Men Who Are Supposed to Manage Things.
The Chairman of a National Committee Has Anything But a Pleasant Job and Gets No Reward for ,«
His Hard Wcrk.
-.iff.
[COPYRIGHT, 1802.1
How much money does it take to run a presidential campaign? This is a question that I have often heard asked but never satisfactorily answered. In every campaign there are always stories circulated on both sides concerning the use of money. These are nearly always colored by partisanship, and are invariably exaggerated.
I have been through three or four presidential campaigns, and in those campaigns have learned enough to make a
just
estimate concerning the amount of money employed on both sides. In one or two instances the figures that I give are practically official. In 1380 the national committee of the republican
party received in the way of subscrip-
In each one of the years above named the democrats had about the same amount of money. In 1880 and 1884 they had an equal amount. It can be said generally in every presidential campaign that the democrats raise as much money as the republicans. In the year 1888 they had perhaps $100,000 less. The two committees disbursed in the last campaign over a million and a half of dollars. Some of the democratic subscriptions came from individuals rather than organizations. One democratic leader, a very rich man, told me personally that he contributed to the campaign fund in 1888 the sum of $250,000.
It is said by those who are experienced In such matters that it is always easier to raise money for the party which is out than for the party which is in. This may account for the deficiency in the democratic treasury in 1888.
For what purposes are these vast sums employed? may properly be asked. I have never seen any evidence or heard any responsible person directly charge that the chairman of the national committee of either party ever .authorized the use of this money for the purpose of purchasing votes. I know it has often been charged in partisan speeches and in the heat of the campaign, but I have never seen any one who possessed reliable information who was willing to affirm the corrects ness of such charges.
Something of an idea of where the money goes can be obtained by running over the disbursements of the republican national committee in 1888. In this year $100,000 was spent in directing documents and circulating them. Another $100,000 was spent on speakers and their expenses. In the direction of congressional contests $200,000 more was disbursed. Wherever a congressional district was close money would be sent to the republican candidate to be used fdr legitimate campaign purposes. These campaign expenses comprise the hiring of bands, the furnishing of uniforms to societies, the paying of the cost of parades, and other things of alike character. Some $200,000 more was disbursed in the close states like New Jersey, Indiana, Connecticut and New York.- About $200,000 was spent at the national headquarters for maintaining that office in first-class style and defraying the cost of the campaign in the city of New .York. A great many of the parades a,nd processions in New York are arranged and prepared by the two national committees. It is an element in the campaign which really counts for very little. Of course as an evidence of enthusiasm and interest such parades have no value unless they are the result of a spontaneous feeling of interest among party followers. Such parades, however, cost money, and where the enthusiasm is not sufficient to raise all the money required the national committee generally comes to the rescue.
Both national committees know nearly to a penny the amount that the other has. They keep such a close watch on each other's movements and there are so many small chatterboxes employed around the committees that it is not at all difficult for the chairmen to find out what the opposition is doing. Indeed, half the energies of the employes of the committees appear to be devoted to gossip and talk. The ideal chairman never talks and is never Interviewed in the newspapers. He neither discloses his hopes nor his fears. In this respect Senator Quay was a model chairman. He kept his plans to himself and let the lesser lights of the committee to the talking.
There Is a great deal of work done in every campaign by a national committee which is of a routine character and has no perceptible effect. There is a tradition around every political headquarters which favors the circulation of documents. This circulation is stimulated by the demands of local speakers. Undoubtedly these documents have a decided value in furnishing arguments and authoritative statements of facts to the speakers throughout the country. The information conveyed by the publications reaches the voters in a practical way only through the speakers. Pew people have patience or interest sufficient to read political documents of any length. The publications which have had the greatest effect have been brief paragraphs representing great concentration of facts upon one sheet of paper. Sometimes a damaging extract from an opponent's speech can be circulated with great effect by having it printed upon a little card The "Hum, Romanism and Ke-!
iw
iSSS
iri
bellion" of Rev. Dr. Burchard, which was used so effectively in the Blaine campaign, was printed upon little cards and given out by adroit agents to members of various Catholic congregations throughout the country as they eame out of their churches on the Sunday preceding the election. There was no possible way of overcoming the effect of these cards before Tuesday, the election day, had arrived.
In the main, however, too much money is spent on documents. Elaborate documente are printed and sent out by the carload to various sections of the country. The personal vanity of senators and members of congress has a good deal to do with swelling the bulk of these publications. A senator or member of congress will often make a speech in congress for the purpose of influencing the campaign. He will then come to the national committee afterward and ask to have this speech circulated as one of the committee's documents. This request is nearly always .acceded to to please the member.
It is not customary to pay speakers for their services in the campaign. It is usual, however, to pay their expenses,
andin
tions some $450,000. This money was sufficient importance to be paid aro disbursed through the chairmanship of given fees where they cannot afford to Marshall Jewell, the former postmaster general of Gen. Grant. In the campaign of 1884 some 8500,000 was raised. B. P. Jones, of Pittsburgh, was the chairman of the committee that collected the money and spent it. In 1888 Senator Quay had the disbursement of some $800,000. This was the largest sum ever raised and spent by a national committee.
some special cases public men of
leave their business without payment. But in nearly every instance the payment becomes known and it has a bad effect. A man who talks for his party because he is paid to do it occupies simply the position of a special pleader, and his remarks have no influence if the fact of such employment is known.
The campaign of this year will be practically fought upon the same lines as the one of four years ago. As each year shows an increase in the amount of money employed it is estimated now that a million of dollars will be needed by each side for campaign purposes. The battle this year will be largely between two business organizations represented by the two committees. It is probable that the spirit of the Indiana management which was so direct and successful in Minneapolis will control the republican national committee, even with Mr. Carter, of Montana, as chairman. It will be remembered that Gen. Michener, who had charge of the Indiana delegation, has often been mentioned in connection with the coming 3ampaign. He was tho directing spirit of the whole republican campaign at Minneapolis. Gen. Michener will bo the president's representative in the soming contest.
Upon the other side the directing mind will be that of W. C. Whitney. Mr. Whitney is a man of great reserve power, possessed of a thorough knowledge of the world and one of the most adroit of political managers. He knows the value of coaxing instead of driving. He has unlimited resources at his command, and so there is no reason to suppose that the democrats will be any less provided with money than the republicans.
The chairman of each committee de2lares as a general thing the policy of the campaign. Back of him is always the candidate, who is the real chieftain. Every matter of supreme importance is submitted to him before action is taken. The post of director of these political organizations is not a desirable one. He is the ostensible head and front of the political forces of Ms side. He has to bear the brunt of nearly all the criticisms aud possible scandals of local management. If his side wins the candidate nearly always is so occupied with-the future as to forget the past. Whoever heard of the chairman of the national committee being prominently recognized by an administration which he has helped to elect? The doctrine of civil service reform would be outraged to the uttermost degree if the •jhairman of any such committee should ever receive any reward for his work. If he fails to elect his candidate then he is made the scapegoat to bear the burden of this defeat.
The task from beginning to end is a thankless one. These chairmen have plenty of notoriety, but never popularity. They aro hunted from morning to night by men who want to dip their hands into the committee's treasury. They have approach and leave their committee headquarters by private ways and have to live almost in hiding to escape the swarm of bores and mendicants. Then they have to submit to people from whom there is no escape. The political leaders of various comrmmities come to headquarters for the purpose of advising the director-in-chief. Sometimes he receives good suggestions, but in the main this is only a waste of time, and ordinarily such visits are used as covers for demands upon the national treasurv
The secretary of the committee is the buffer to the chairman. His real duty is to entertain all the men who come to headquarters and to fight off as adroit* ly as possible the swarm of people who seek each day to capture the headquarters for purposes of their own.
One of the great elements of cost in a campaign is outside-of any work of the committees. This is in the check to business during a presidential year. Everything in a business way is In an expectant state during a campaign. The loss in this way would foot up many millions. However, the best men of both sides favor these great political campaigns. They say that it is a good to get the people away from business every once in four years and to make them think of other things. In no other way would ninety per cent, of our people learn anything about gov* eminent or administration affairs. It Is a four years' school crowded into one. The outdoor meetings are healthful and the parades are good forms of exercise. All of the uproar and confusion do no harm. The campaign unsettles nothing in reality.
There is a class that would extend the presidential term so as to not have a presidential election oftener once in sesen years and make the president ineligible to reelection. It is possible that some such an amendment may prevail, but it will take time, and there must be some peculiar combination of circumstances and conditiotis to convince people of the desirability of
such a change. T. G. Crawford
SSiSSI
-aHM
Artlinr Hartmiurn.
There ia an American boy only ten years jld who by his musical talent has created juite a stir in this country and in England. His name is Arthur Hartmann. He was born in Philadelphia, and ever since he was six he has played the violin at con-
certs to big audiences. Arthur studied at the New York College of Mu«i«\ and New Yorkers have heard him play the compositions of Paganini and Causer and Raff and Ticheculin and other great musicians.
Art hur is abroad now, and they make a great fuss ovok him in London drawing tooms.
Remarkable Jonrncy of *1 Kite.
Samuel D. V. Burr, of Central avenue, Plainfleld, is a lover of outdoor sports and Is much interested in kite flying.
While he and his family wero at Ocean Grove he went down to the beach with some boys to indulge in his favorite pastime. A stiff off shore breeze was blowing and numerous aerial messengers wero sent aloft.
He decided to inscribe his name and address on one of the kites, together with the name of the place, the date and hour, and send it on a voyage of discovery. Ho found the handle of an old broom near by, from which he cut apiece about twelve inches long. This he tied to the kite string about 150 feet from the kito in such a way as to form a drag. When all was ready he raised the kite, and placing the wooden drag on the surface of tho wator it held the kite steady aud the breeze soon carried it out of sight.
About a week later Mr. Burr received a letter dated Norfolk, Va., which stated that the kite had been captured at Bradford's Point fishery, Princess Anne county, Va., at 9 a. m., Sept. 3. It was in perfect condition and still flying when caught As it had started on its journey at 12:80 p. m., Sept. 1, it had been flying nearly two days, and during this time had gone about 400 miles, first due east then, as the wind changed, south then west until captured.
Mr. Burr at once sent for the kite, and it reached him a few days later in perfect condition. It is one of the ordinary paper kiqd, and its total cost, including the linen cord with which it was flown, was just seven cents.—Cor. New York World,
Sharp Banking.
Most readers must have seen the little tin savings banks for ten cent pieces which came into vogue two or three years ago. The cylinder holds fifty dimes and cannot be opened until it is full.
Such a bank was given to a little girl and her brother. It contained one dime—a nest egg. The day was warm, and pretty soon the desire of the joint owners of the bank to convert the deposit into two glnsse3 of Boda water became all but uncontrollable.
The question was how to get the money out. Finally the boy—destined probably to become a Napoleon of finance—hit upon a plan and dragged his sister to the nearest drug store. There he explained the situation to the man behind the counter and broached his plan of operations.
In short he asked the man to lend him forty-nine ten cent pieces for a minute or two. The man was ready for a customer, produced the needed coins, aud tho little boy and girl went home penniless and happy.—New York Recorder.
An Odd Woman's Club.
An odd woman's club exists in Paris. Its object is social intercourse, afternoon tea and gossip, and in further adherence to the general lines of men's clubs only wives of club men are eligible. The club is called the "Cercle des Femmes du Monde," and its club precincts are jealously guarded from masculine invasion.— New York Times.
It is not unusual for colds contracted in the fall to hang on all winter. In such cases catarrh or chronic bronchitis are almost sure to result. A fifty cent bottle of Chamberlain's Cough Remedy will cure any cold. Can you afford to risk so much for so small an amount? This remedy is intended especially for bad colds and c'roup and can always be depended upon. For sale by druggists. Oct.
I was troubled with catarrh for seven years previous to commencing the use of Ely's Cream Balm. It has done for me what other so-calied cures have failed to do—cured me. The effect of the Balm seemed magical. Clarence L. Huff, Biddeford Me.
After trying many remedies for catarrh during past twelve years, I tried Ely's Cream Balm with complete success. It is over one year since I stopped using It and have had no return of catarrh. I recommend it to all my friends,—Milton T. Palm, Reading, Pa.
Am yno bmtom Um Dr. Miles' Nervine.
Coughing Lead! to Consumption.
Kemp's Balsam will stop the cough at once.
Consumption
take
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Dr. JOHN BULL'S
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Use Smith's Tonic Syrup, a safe and sure cure for and lb"ever. Dr. John Btxli'u worm Destroyers taste good and qclckly removo "worms from children or grown people, restoring the tgpftk and puny to robust health. Try them. No other worm medicine so safe and sure. Price 25 cents at drug stores, or sent by mail by John D. Park A Sons Co., 17& and 177 Sycamore St., Cincinnati, O., wholesale agents.
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ooldkn
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Fall particulars, and any required information, will be sent by mail on application to
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&
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