South Bend News-Times, Volume 37, Number 324, South Bend, St. Joseph County, 19 November 1920 — Page 13
i V ft tm
v X'a.
SoftLinesandRich Color sDistinguish Winter Millinery - Crowns Are Low and Very Soft - Veils of Handsome LaceNow Part of Hat Trimming.
!7TERn Is r ioftne;-a And prace 7 a-bout wintrr millinery that is flvery enagln?:. No harsh angles ale evident anywhere an! when feathers or wingi are adJed by way of trimming, they follow tho peneral line of the hat and Mend softly with It- Thus every hat U a picture hat. whether H bo small or large, and mn-kta & picture of Its wearer. The expert milliner Is aI.o an artist who knows at n planes Just what typo of hat will suit her customer's type and her -years and hr silhouette. The true rtlst la millinery doe not try to :iell you a hat Ju5t because it is an .expensive model, or because you fancy ""Its color or Its line?. She will study its effect on you with an eye that sec3 a pood many things you do not think of the Important effect at the back and In profllo view, the relation of thft hat's color to your own coloring, and of lta lines to tho lines of your flirur. All Hats Becoming N't Even without the Intelligent help of an expert milliner, however, you cannot go far wrong: in picking out thl3 winter's hair. There are few unbecoming models in shape." at least. Color i another matter but mo.-t of tho dark or neutral tones are becoming to all faces. The winter hats are so soft of lino that they frame the face niost llatterlnsly and it makes fniall difference how you do your hair, sine 11 !.xts come far down and hide tic h iir. Ono tnlus is important, hovvevtr. you must wear soft waves of hair over your ears! This is the only part of the coiffure that shows nd ua of the nrw hats draprsed down to the ears and with no soft locks Phcwlr.TT at either side gives curlovW.y bald sur?et.lon to its wearer as though the hat had been donned over a shaven po'.i. Toi will notice in every on of the tats pictured today this softness of outlir..- Kven when a blocked frame Is used, the hat material is draped eo softly over it and the line of the frame is s5 Indeterminate that no har.-h ar.tjlen ere evident. Trimmings follow the general line of the hat. Tor lnstiiAce, th parad'.so feather that swrps away under the brim of tho roll brim 5illor: Its slant identical with the lant of the who'o hat. And the ro.id wlr.z. f.attcr.cd back against the turne l-lTck Trim of another hat; the wlnt; at the left side curving sofr!y with a curve of the brim and following Its contour. In tho feathertrimmed models tho feathers follow the line, of thr hat and do not tVpart from It. nr:!!r.s softly apiir.5t their bftckpround: and the ono stiff hat of the group thoi turban with a peaked brim is softened by a rracefully .drooptnp feather that follows the clor.cated line across the top. All Kiml of I'luniairo l"-ol. To s-e, all kinds of feathers are Be Sure and Adjust
nr. I LS are not worn over the chin that the snop.s are charging two jo,his year, or ra'her, drawn downiiars a vard for them and a dollar-and-
;nder the ti V Ml 111 nr.d pinned smoothly back behind the head c they were last season. Look at the next pretty, smartly droned woman you meet and rote how her fare veil 1ü arranged, its lower ed-re coming Just h!ow the tip of her ro.n and the veil fluttering rather loo5-ly instead of bInrr pulled bsck clolv acr.ir.t the features. A fac ve'.l drawn down tightly and closely un lor tho chin and around thr neck rr.iy mere trim und tidy to your personal taste but the effect is 'not rnurt cr modern Jut now. and will take away from the general modlshne- cf your appearance. There is prr-at favor, th! aurumn. fcr whi'e cr flesh tinted face veilings . kprinkb d with very tiny black chenille dots. These veils are so fashionable
(
V it Cocr Tambles Torwai?d. Ovar? fashionable. Some hat3 today 5how ostrich feathers, one model has coq. another model paradise, still another model wings. The single hat that is not father-trimmed had to creep Into the croups because it wa.s too fetchlnp to be Ignored and the softly flatterlntr lace veil Is quite as graceful as feathers! This veil Is mado of black chantilly lace and Is attached to the hat as part of its trimming:. The lace is adjusted to fall ai even length all around and not be crushed down by the high fur vest collar. It i3 lightly tacked to the brim at either side fo that no sudden breeze may waft it backward, out of pls.ee. The little round turban Is of black hatters plush and is nntrlmmcd except for tho fluttering chantilly veil and a band of Kreenpold metallic ribbon that ties in a .small bow at the bark. There is a polden prlint. oo, In the peak-brim turban which is made of gold colored ranne velvet with the trailing feather in mustard shade. This la the only "trying" shape among today's pictured models, but there Is a smartness about this hat that will appeal to young women with a dashing Inclination In dress. The turban Is elongated from side to side and is a modification of tho popular marquis shape. Hats Off tho race. Women have found the turned-back brim effects so becoming that they refuse to give them up, and the style is very evident in winter millinery. Three turned-back models are pic-
-x-; v;--:-- .-. :.v , :..-. VV, -v;;.; : -
arL. LiLLl
(9 CIIEIIIa are enormous possibilities in the neckwear of autumn. UeKarding a fluffy bit of prettlness on the neckwear counter, you IIEIti: are enormous possibilities immediately visualize the lovely blouse it can -so easily become a part of all you need to achieve the creation Is a needle and thread, and a yard and a half of sheer fabric. It is the easiest thing in the world to concoct a perfectly ravishing blouse when collar. ve.t and cuffs are all ready to be tacked to a simple p.;rment that any woman with a spark of Ingenuity can seam together. There Is the 1bot gulmpe, for In -
stance, a fluffy frill attached to aland some young women run black j straight front panel or n, double j velvet ribbon through this tiny hem, i panel with two frills and a graceful and tie a small bow with very long!
collar turning over at the top. Usually you can pick up cuffs to match. One of thte jabot frills. In pale ecru batiste with cream filet edlnc collar J and jabot, has been attached to a Your Face Veil Right a-half is the least price at which you can pick up one of these veilings. Hut money spent on a veil is always wellj ppent. No Item of the costume Is j more conspicuous than the wisp ofj fabric which gees directly over thej visage, and no Item counts more in bccoinincness or the reverse. So buy a pood veil and adjust it in the very hu-: mode. li.ck veils of sheer mesh have also tlr.y dots well rcattered over the surface, but they are not a3 becoming: as the black-dotted white veil", or tho flesh tinted "complexion" veils with tiny black dots. Taupe veils nnd brown veils ai.o in great favor are Hsua'.lv of fne rr.e?h with a delicate dotted ! pattern.
A ' ITTE
1
LOW CROWNED
GRACEFUL
f l K v . '.'-Hi's' -'; u-..-. ..
tri i t i - -v-;,.; Iv ;5-., - ,-" . . ; 1 ' . w if 'v ..x" j r j -. . t - , . ! . . - . ;.,- -
J- - j. ' b--, ... X1 B3E
. .t..'vjv.5-,-.'-,'f,.--i .
"Velvet, arui Te aLtve-r1 3
tured but not one of these turned back hats really slants directly back 1 j from the face which would be a sad- 1 ! ly unbecoming plant for any woman. ! 'The brim always slants down and out- j j ward a bit first, where it leaves the j j crown and then rolls up from this j point so that the hat projects a triile ' over the face, carina: the shadow that j is Indispensable to becomin?-ncs?. If j you rip apart any turned-back hat. j you will find this double slant of brim. The roll-brim sailor, simple as it ts ' acquire.5? distinction from its handsome paradise frather which sweeps away under the brim where it is fastened on with a cord ornament. This hat Is I black and Is very chic with a black : crepe de chine frock and one of tho.--wes choker collars of ermine that are ; the latest idea from Paris. You could j not imagine a more lmple little hat, yet the model is on of utmost illsj tinction and no little expense. - The ! wing-trimmed hat is of black velve with rich shadings of taupe and rr.ral j pink in the wings or rather wincr. for the plumage is all In one Mrip. draped and bent to follow the line of the hatbrim. A retnl Ilrlm The two larpe hats pictured are quite different in type yet each is authoritatively smart for this fe.ison. One hat has a turned-back brim and the feathers in front; the other model has a brim turned up at the back and trimming nt the back. The coq trimmed hat has an interesting treatment of brim facing. 'The velvet is cut out in largo petals which are cordsimple blouse of cream batiste and
the effect is excellent. The blouse Is! Another bit of new neckwear picrun with hand-made pintucks at the! tured Is the veree and eton collar
shoulder and the seams of armhokand shoulder were hemstitched by a professional the only bit of machine work on the garment. It Is even a kimono mouse ana on this you can put one of the square lace collars, with straight cuffs of the lace on the elbow sleeves. A square lace collar with matching cuffs 1? shown in a picture, the lace set add- j ing a dainty touch to a dark velvet frock. The square lace collar has h . narrow hemstitched hem at tho top hemstitched hem at th .?a I T I: aV" " . -TT- I. ' i 4 Si ;, ; i-' " v , ... ... Kliabothan Huff Air lU'turning. Tlii One Is Of stltchctl Net. Sonllopoxl Anel Hem i
NEWS - TIMES, SOUTH 15 END, IND.
ha
' ' ; v v - -
n ' - . ,'-.." ' ; v ' '. " J 1 4 y i. Air:v.;A EB xV.v - -
r J . r - -. .v " .1 v " ."V 4 x. . l- K V -v -v'A-;--c.-;v.-.v U?y v :
Au;.- ''-r;; vV- ? ! -i,.;- :;
BlacK. CTrvtilly T bittet? s . Oyet?.
ed at the edge and these velvet petals are stitched fgaint the flat brim-facing also of velvet. The hat is In a most exquisite shade of pray-blue volvet shading in the shadow? to navy blue, and the coq feathers which tumhie forward so gracefully are in .ot't blue-pray. An enrhii..ing hat for a J ends at the back. combination. With a loose jacket, or a bodice that does not meet at its front edges, this eton-vestee Is most effective. The demure, turned down collar with its black cravat bow has a j very youthful suggestion and perhaps , this U one reason why this neckwear (style Is having such a vogue. But the ' straight vest mu?t hang straight, be- j 4 , a -c r 4 A . A -; y 4. The LTton Collar And Wstre Are Youthful, Therefore Popular; And Kjclct IlmbrolJery Is A Favored iSibrie. tweea loose jacket or bodice frcr.'s to give the correct ff . ct. Allover eyel ;t embroi lerv in nale ecrti was used ;for the pictured s-.t and the tailored brown - ; jacket and salr: are elar duvetyn. More elaborate than the
i . V- 1 ". -. f-i. ; - . ? 1ST . V ' - , ' h : '-!: ;'.t?v , irr; r "' ' - i-l''.' ;-'. v ' - v '1; v -. - - 2..:;.: ;v-v . , l -. -!- : -.v v." 'va5 ? 3'tT? Ar-- ' , M,.' i-v'-3
7 ' '-.- k f i I,-.... , '' 4 . : -.v r-?- ' f-.--;?: ? - .:.r .Ca "' -;.- '. ; : , v Mr.w i-- - 1 i ', r "V "CTa "..... 1 3 . ' .r : ' .-i f - a.- . , iL... ai young woman with deep blu. ?yes! The other lare hat is of Irown velvet with nestling feathers in the same J shadethe new walnut brown of this j season. There are two thick ostrich featl er, put on r.t ei'her side, the quills point ir.g toward the front and the ips of the feathers curlinp for eton-vestee is the gilct. a combination of collar and blouse-front which sometimes is attached to a sleeveless puimpo fo that it will set smoothly unI der a loose Jacket. There are gilets j in quite elaborate style; fome are of nCili V iüVtl UCa i lL'UUU V IAA I.'1U-V1 I.41U metal thread embroiderj'. ethers nre of lac and tucked net. A pretty giiet for wear with a dark blue suit is of ? - r - a : s k...- A a-. A-y. V.. )A- ,,. .. A tz !'a " A t- X,J A . ' " , . :.4 4 5 . a U?, -. y: t:: - ' . itf square lOko touars iiiai raMin Jlack Are Lffectivc On eivci rot k -Vnel There- Are Mat hing Cuffs I or Illbow Sleeves, belpe and nan- r.o. hemstitched toget her. Tiny loops of navy silk cord ';edge the turnover collar and a tucked j pane! that forms the front of the g.Ie-t. ; Th--n there is the modestie. u, filmy ! little contraption which Tl' around the shoulders and fasten.- at the back, j filling In a too-deco'ilete opening in the Iblou'e front. Not a great deal of the mod-stie is supposed to show Ju?t a line of dainty wh!e as a finish to the bodice which might otherwise be too severe in line a the V.oue fror.1 the nck. Perhaps rnav be slichrd out dorp oval or rectar.tr!.. tha reache ?lmot to the wai.and then the modestie looks like a dimit?u-
y v-: f v'i ?
-.. ' -; ... !
...X 4 V? , lr '. V-..-. " OtKer Aou:rxd. ward over the quill part and ever the i low hat crown. J The gem of the whple collection 1 the adorable little fea'ther turban is left till the last so that it can be con- ; sidered with speiil attention. .Vo, prettier little hat likely to be se! ! this winter. There are five ostr!ch I y. ' ' -a ' "a'' r f X ' V a r ' ' - I A - 7 . - ; v . a ' A Jl-l, A--, W A V4 x;-v - V y 'S ! 4aV'. V W'.l With The' Street Suit She Wai lino Linen Ncckwrar And C'ulTs Daintiflod With Hand He mtit him;. tive vestee. You can -t mode-ties with square, oval or rounded neck -
. ' v. i . vrtv- ... -, ,-. - v . ,
t 4 V . , h - -.-. f ... . 4 f V'"- vvi,:,4" .C at v-:-v.'. ( a V '"-Vs. - - i' ' , . 4 - ;- Vv. s" v... i - - . .I, . ' . , '
v ". r ' -' " a- H '". s -' v " , - . ; v. , .y.- ', : iVi . Vv ."' a-v'av 'W.A.J.'Ai. '.jyvi - . -Ai-V f .
lines so that any syle of bodice maylrour.ded
be suited and It pays to keep these adaptable little neck finishes in mind when you try cn a readv-mado frock. ; High neck ruffs, known ir. oti.tr : Jay3 as i::;zabeth m ruffs, are fa.sh - ; ionab'.e in Paris now. Th'-se tall ruffs i are made of pleated net, of wired lace, of feathers and even of fur. They give t great effect of dignity and statelinens to the v.aarer. lutely spoil the lino ol but thy abso - the throat and in fD.ct make seme throats far too clumsy arid chun! the woman wi'h ;i for grace. Only g. blender, swanj like neck should In lul?e Ir bethan ruff, fashionable a In an Elizaas ParLs Is
makin? the style. The ruff in thejmery far
picture han a pleated frill of ccalloped net over a frill of hemstitched net and stan is up softly yet crisply around the throat. Paris making a de' rmir.fi erffo; ! to bring ba-.-k b ijia nf-kwr, so mike the most low-necked effect3 th.s
A- Cc q ue-ULitv Tariert cl? T)u-Gcld' 4 WA. A ma Little. JTcLYvbarvs feathers and each Is set cn under n cut jr! button; and -.x'.l tb" feather? intr-rmlngle ruvc r d and --rar .f ully at o that tl r : 1 1 1 r hat is tho f-ahfr ;r:tls f.ll 'c irk. leaving xto face clear of inrnJl.r.g plumar". Tni hat i. tijrm n pTr' b most d ? l n intr of t'lack wlv' I season, i wenri:.'' for n" : w.'ial'-bon' i- ison yo i ir.:-y bt d s to'e u.i.trs les tfr.t-d a: j Iitj bar k w : ii ; t i e I .ns of the ;-:: eni w h o know.'.' A ? a : . ; ; ciiu!ur.trc a;:- ; ;i t : ir. ?r collars ii.'i iran-pr.r. al', trars J O K ('S i!l : .'" n l ir.my l r. nc h :lt, cic-o. co'.'.irs : (-lava's. Th--v i tops of v;nt(. r fr-'icks a j blouses l;av- v ry .:: j witi stern li'. r-ail it th Me in r.iri- r:r 1 .Medici T,i:;irs, f,r n.ffs are in.-crted in the baks fit co:.t '.oi.ars bod;e-s. There ar. b:.t-l; .-a' in. pi. rii.rs v.h:eh .. ..1 p '.v :- ; "j : v;r.r. r i .' he r.r 1 i, tn-I:n.;s ',f b.-f k -a r. and blar 1. and Of bcx j pleatf-1 tui;'. ! Collar an.: o-:rr j are of fr.r s" s :,t 1 i 'i i' V -1 ' c r r. f n 1 trimme d ! crpandv ' ; 4. - .a. 1 of i'ii Iri. ':. 1 :i , . rray I;nen witn oyi.ir S of wl.l'e l:nn nr- the imaginable for all wir.' i r :m:o' j Turned J-xn ro-ir.d e 'embroider I '.;n-n "irI tistlcally knotty 1 V4r. ! homo on blot: -,r- '.. Irffr-rtive h":i"-' fo-'.:: i brow n v !v v.v ' r i. . a rat r .-. An le af r.nd ! I ocse . 1 o n b 1 with. a I soft s a ! blouse h at : ;-.ni .rne-I 1 c e , f.n1 o w n . V. A j L-,y.e-i with o i collars r. am V- r, o t : r :o.,0'.v:',? :-. frcnt is a f 1 rown .s.lk. . , th rournyl ne ,.,:n. . bir. pra-fu..y t.'d bow The informal a:.- art:--rrrf . t yet I: Jut t r. f jma! ho'.i'e co-tt:-.:'. i S pirate coiiari ar v.-:-h i . :. tt i tailored JiCkv'-s .-.ri and na rr.;-w. T:.-- o-i i far over th c ln i r . o e ' : . ' ' ' ' r . 'ttrns c : the w V, ' " w n - o r e i handk 1 , row, r--al stit'-.h' d 1.' or of p . a I r. h e m - '..r.r n is th correct fabri' f o r ,r a: uf :na roat CO.. rs a bit too s-Ärr.-nd uffn j more x;S j cuff s: i I perfect. on kr pp h" a r : V. A a. s s a' flute a - done up t:.-y
: v;v
: J 51 ----- -T
