South Bend News-Times, Volume 37, Number 307, South Bend, St. Joseph County, 2 November 1920 — Page 6

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Coq- if .Tambles

SoftLines andRich ColorsDistingwsh W inter Millinery - Crou;ns Are Lou; and Very Soft - Veils of Handsome LacelSfow Part of Hat Trimming.

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II ERE !s a 5oftnes3 and grace 7 about winter millinery that is t very er.2MpIi:?r. No har.sh angles are evident anywhere and when ffc.uhers or wlntr are added by way of trimming, thev follow the pcneral

11 line of the hat and blend softly with fit. Thus every hit la a picture hat, wh'itht-r it be small or large, and nvakis a picture of Its wearer. The expert milliner Is al.o an artist who

knows at a Klane Just what type of hat will suit her customer's typ and her years and her silhouette. The true artist In millinery does not try to sell you a hat Just because It Is an expensive, model, or because you fancy

-r-'1lts color or its lines. She will study lts effect on you with an eye that

sr.s a poo. i many inins you qo hui think of the important effect at the back and In profile- view, the relation of the hat's color to your own coloring, and of Its lines to the lines of ycur figure. All Ifats Becoming Now Even without tho intelligent help of an expert milliner, however, you cannot co far wrong in picking out this winter's hat.s. There are few unbecoming models in shapes at least. Coior i.H another matter but most of the d-irk or neutral tones are becoming to all f ces. The winter hats are so soft of linn that they frame the face most llitterlnly and it makes mall difference how you do your hair, since all hats come far down and hide the hair. One thing Is important, however, you must wear soft waves of hair over your c-ira! This 13 the only pirt of the coiffure that shows and one of the new hats drag-sd down to the ears and with no soft locks showing at either side gives a curiously bald sup-estlon to its wearer as though the hat had been donned over a shaven poll. You will notice in every one of the hats pictured today this softness of outline. Even when a blocked frame is used, the hat material Is draped o tofily over it and the line cf the frame Is ?.- Indeterminate that no harh a er !. are evident. Trimmings follow th general lino of the hat. For

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fashionable. Some hats today show ostrich feathers, one model has coq. another model paradise, still another model wings. The single hat tha.t is not feather-trimmed had to creep Into the groups because it was too fetchins to be ignored and the softly fluttering lace veil Is quite as graceful as feathers! This veil Is mad of black chantilly lace nd Is attached to the hat as part of Its trimming. The lace is adjusted to fall at even length all around and not be crushed down by the high fur vest collar. It is lightly tacked to tho brim at either side so that no sudden breeze may waft it backward, out of place. The little round turban is of black hatters' plush and is untrlmmed except for the fluttering chantilly veil and a band of greengold metallic ribbon that ties in a small bow at tho back. There is a polden glint, too. In the peak-brim turban which is made of gold colored panne velvet with the trailing feather in mustard shade. This is the only "trying" shape among today's pictured models, but there is a smartnc5s about this hat that will appeal to young women with a dashing Inclination in dress. The turban is elongated from side to Mde and U a modification of the popular marquis shape. Hats Off tno Face. Women havo found the turned-back brim effects so becoming that they refuse to give them up, and the style

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is very evident In winter millinery. I ment of brim facincr

tured but not one of these turnedback hats really slants directly back from the face which would be a sadly unbecoming slant for any woman. The brim always slants down and outward a bit first, where it leaves the crown and then rolls up from this point so that the hat projects a trifle over the face, casting the shadow that is indispensable to becominrncss. If you rip apart any turned-back hat. you will find this double slant of brim. The roll-brim sailor, simple as it acquires distinction from its handsome paradise feather which sweeps away under the brim where it is fastened o; with a cord ornament. This hat Is black and is very chic with a black crepe de chine frock and one of those wee choker collars of ermine that are the latest idea from Paris. You could not Imagine a more simple little hat. yet the model is one of utmost distinction and no little expense. The wing-trimmed hat is of black velvet with rich shadings of taupe and coral pink in the wings or rather wing, for the plumage is all in one strip, draped and bent to follow tho line of the hatbrim. A Petal Itrim The two large hats pictured are quite different ln type yet each is authoritatively smart for this season. One hat has a turned-back brim and the feathers in front; the other model

has

trimming

irimmea nat nas an interesting treat- . blue, and the coo feathers vh:ch tlim

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cd at the ede and these velvet petals are stitched against the flat brim-facing also of velvet. The hat is in a

a brim turned up at the back and j most exquisite shade of gray-blue veliming at the back. The coq vet shading in tho shadows to navy

The velvet is

Three turned-back models are pic- cut out in large petals which are cord-

ble forward so gracefully are in soft blue-gray. An er.ch.inMng hat for a

young wrman with deep blu? eyes! The other lare hat is of brown velvet with nestling feathers in the same shade the new walnut brown o? this season. There are two thick ostrich feather?, put on at either side, the quills pointing toward the front and the tips of the feathers curling for

ward over the quill part and over the ; feather? and r-ich 1 .e"t en i:r. !rr 1 low hat crown. 'cut jet button; and all the feather;

The gem of the whole collection i intermingle so that tl.v the adorable little feather turban is j cove red ar.d the feath left till the last so that it can be con- Xr 1 cf i;liy at i-id'f ar.,1

sidered with special attention. No the face prettier little hat is likely to be seen This hat

this winter. There are five ostrich j turl.T. par h'

cie a

cf tumblin: i k. :;l:n

entire- hut ia er vr.ds fll ' k. avl-.g

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Iff

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paradise

w e e roll

w a v

either that

th? brim of the

I rim sailor: i.- slant identical

w'.'h th slant of tl.e whole hat. And the ro.id wirr:?, flattened back aqainst the turnv 1-b ick brim of another hat;

th' v.-iri a tho left side !;.' w.r'i a curve of th.- I lwir.c its contour. In

curving softr;m and fltho feather-

trirnmed models tho f-ah.ers follow j s?arn together,

IIERI3 a-e enormous possiblHUes in the neckwear of autumn. Re

garding a fluffy bit of prettlness on the neckwear counter, you

immediately visualize the lovely blouse it can so easily become a part of all you need to achieve the creation It a needle and thread, and a yard and a half of sheer fabric. It is the easiest thing in the world to concoct a perfectly ravishing blouse when collar. est and cuffs are all ready to be tacked to a simple garment that any

woman with a spark of ingenuity can

the line cf the hat an i do not depart from it, nestl'.r-.r softly a train -t their

ha ckirround : nnd tho ono stiff hat

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the group th turban wih a peaked brim Fcftenod by a pracefully ('r.:; feather that fallows the elor-a'ed lire across the top. All Kind- of Plumage IX-1.

all kini.

There Is the Jabot EuSmpe. for Instance, a fluffy frill attached to a straight front panel or a double rarel with two frills and a graceful collar turning over at the top. Usually you can pick up cuffs to match. On" of thc-e jabot frills, in pal ecru

Ibatiste with cream filet edging collar are land Jabot, has been attached to a

simple blouse of cream batiste and ! ends a: the back. the effect is excellent. The blouse Is I Another bit of new neck .war picrun with hand-made pintucks at the j tured Is the este and eton collar shoulder and the seams of armhole j combination. With a loose j iXct. or

and shoulder were hemstitched by a professional the only bit of machine work on the garment. It is even easier to make a kimono blouse and

I cton-vesXe is the gilet, a combination

of collar and blouse-front which sometimes is attached to a sleeveless guimpe so that it will set smoothly under a loose Jacket. There are gilets in quite elaborate style; some are of rich, brooaded ribbon combined with metal thread embroidery, other nre of lace and tucked net. A pretty gilet for wear with a dark blue suit is of

a bodice that does not meet a', its front edges, thi.s cton-vestee is most effective. The demure, turned down collar with its b!a k cravat bow has a

on this you can put one. of the square ! very youthful suestion and perhaps lace collars, with straight cuffs of the 'this i.s one reason why this; neckwear

A square I style, is bavins such a vogue. Hut the

matching cuffs is straight vest must hung straight, be-

lace on the elbow sleeves.

lace collar with

shown in a picture, the lace set add- I ing a dainty touch to a dark vc lvef ! frock. The square lace collar has a; narrpw hemstitched hem at the topi and same young women run black ( velvet ribbon through this tiny hem. j and tie a small bow with very long '

Be Sure and Adjust Your Face Veil Right

7 n 1 ill -S nre v. worn over the chin H t"Xs e.:r. r rather, drawn down tj--""i''r the chin ux pinned X;v back behind the head

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that the i-hops are charging two dollars a yard for them and a dol!ar-and-a-half is the least rrloe at which you can pick up one of these veilings. Hut mney spent on a veil is always well spent. No item of the costume is

'more conspicuous than the wisp cf

which goes directly over the

elv instead of be-i L-.age. and no item counts more in -'- acilnt 'he t t'ccominpness or the revew. So tuy

I,cok a the r .-t woman her face veil ? romir.r Ii:?'

.and thrt vi! ! fabric

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iwr. viown tight- a pood .veil and adjust it in the very

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bin

and 1 latest mode.

mark veil.1? of sheer mesh have also

; tiny dots well scattered ever the aur-

the j. he Hack-dotted white vei'.s. or the

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rv ir or mo lern .kr av.av from

e t ri in

hnr -s cf yotir appear-1 i'.e?h ! tiny

tinted black

n. brown veils-

or tint, d face veil Ines j usually cf f.ne

w:t.j very ttr.v r.iacK cneni..e hand-run ccs

Theio veils are sa fashionable 1 pattern.

"complexion" veils with dot?. Taupe veils and -also in great favor are

mesh with & delicite

gn instead of a dotted

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season, for

a.sin ou may

wc -ring w h:lebor.e d stnX tened at f iie ba k w.th v h r k n o v s ? At a : v r . 1 1 e

l.ar.s fa

couturiers c 1 1 1 1 a r.s em

ire pu':i:

.-cme of Xe 'r ar.s, ire nt

transparent voKfts :n x;.e

top of w.nter frocks ;ni many French blouses i very hieb, e'c c-i'.'-v-with s'ern little bl tck crava. They rail it. :': Medic i fi'. ct in i'ari.-. - n 1

Me Jl' i eoliars. or rt: fi" .ir' the backs of rr.it cellar.Therr are black s if in pi

! r. .c r ' e t '.i i ; r

w i'.iio:.t wir.ng at the back v

, s : a

, the nt and Landings ' and b'.ar!- In . pie at::

pleatr-d t'jllr. Collar ard e-ff

are or

trimnid v. or.cir.dy v (Simple litt ! 1 i n e n with

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e c

X la c.j a i; Iri.h er ousc fr-- '.

f black 1': . a:.J Of box r i n i' or w : r : ,.- ,.f li' f n

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tu- j 1 . r o

or Of

white l.nen are tl

irr.3g;nab for all winter -a car

a i

Turned down round coll

embroidered l:n-n ir w-r rn

of h with

With The Street Suit She- Wears Fine Linen Ncrkwcar And ruffs Dalntifiel With Hand Hemstitchuig.

tistically knotte

home on blouses cf effecic ho'Jcc co: hrown velvct with loose, lr,riT J'-i'' I' 'Oft ii'h at h 1 i:

Windsor

blouse iched w collars

wen ro-:

tive vestce. Vou can get modesties with square, oval or rounded necklines so that any style of bodice may

j be suited and it pays to k-tp the.-"

adaptable little neck finishes in mind ! rig. grac when you try on a ready-made frock. The info:

other : suits tr.c

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a m

rounded line fhe round' 1

i Iii?h neck ruffs

Square Yoki Collars That Fastn In

Iftck .i-c i;flf-tivc On Velvet Frocks ;dlys as Ei.zaberhan r

ni nine are .Maiming luih x or )nn.,M n t.,rK now. T

known

IIIIkiw Sleeves. beisre and na-y not hemstitched together. T:ny loops cf r. aw silk cord

s. are

o. tall ru

n.1 vle

i- 1

rairrht kirt and , : . :: with a Th" n cv of r

r.ded r'jt ail tinTl ,--" turned down Ve ni. e lar. the : collar following In f r c r, t is i cf L: o .vn s.'k.

-ti-'ic effect

,e r.cn ye!

fa.sh- nial house costume.

1 Sepira'e 'c'i'irs

are made cf pieited net, cf wired lace, of feathers and evn of fur. They give a jrrea efi'ect of d:gniy and sate-

wlttl

fo-t- war

taliorc-J i:ikc5 äro ilnicst all

and narrow. The cellar dos r.ot turn far over the ed; cf the coat, but it

the turnover collar and a ticked liness to the wearer, but they abso-f turns ever the ed?e aim est drwn to

edge

pan"! that forms the front of the g-ilet. j lutely spoil the line of The throat and Then there is the modele, a filmy in fact make seme threats far too

the wa;:-'.. handk-rcr

c o a '

c--..ars are c:

linT. dged

h nar-

Thc i;ton Cellar And Vitce

1 i 1 1 e contraption which fits around

'he shoulders and fastens at the back.

Arc j fXi :n a too-deccllere opening in the

Youthful. Therefrro l'opular; Andblcuse frrnt. Not a grat deal f the

Fyelet Fmbruilery Is A Fa oi-vel , modestie is supposed to show just a Fabric. . 'line of diinty white as a finish to the twecn lco?e jicket or bodice frr ns i hodice which might otherwise be too to cive the correct effec. Allover eye- : severe ir. l.ne at the neck. Perhaps let erahro' Jf -v -. ril ec-u was used 'the blouse front may be slashei cut

UlirabethAn Kurls Art Returning. This j for the pictured s:t and the tailcr1'in a dep oval or rectangle that One Is Of Scalloped And Hem-j jacket and skirt are of dark brown ' reaches almost to the w aiidline and stitched Net. ' duvetyn. More elaborate than the thn the modestie looks like a dlmlnu-

clumsy and chunky for grace. Only

sender, swan-

row. real f.'.et la

the woman with a Xr

like neck sr.cu.a :n :u;re :n an r.iza-1 rer rar-ric autumn coat coinrs

stitched linen. Fine

cr of plain hem

men 1. the ccr-

bethan making

ru.T. the

f a-shionable

style.

The

as rut

ParU

1 in the

nery

picture has a pated frill of scop-d 1 more exX-i: net over a frill of hemstitched nc and cuff set of

stands up softly yet crisply around the prfction

. v a r. h ; r

throat. Paris 13 makinsr a determined effort to bring back hish neckwear, so make

ri f- e 'i t ri r . r f

laundres-s know

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hit too sum-

way. A cellar ar.i iinn will launder to

r : f a w ; I

?hape

? w

a: w ivs

Kxpert plat and

flute t

L:t5 cf finery so that when

the most of low-necked effects this i done up they look "Just like new".

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