South Bend News-Times, Volume 37, Number 252, South Bend, St. Joseph County, 8 September 1920 — Page 3

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NEWS-TIMES, SOUTH BEND, IXD.

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All the New Coat Wraps Have Loose Draped Lines -Cape Influence Prominent In Paris Notable Here Only In Deep Collars Some Indication of the Fitted Redingote-The Arab Burnouse.

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RACE, nnd richness of texture are the chiracteristics that impress you most in the new wraps for fall. These wraps are cornout ahead of autumn millinery tailored models now. for whil

women dir.? to summery tos all through the warm t-arly autumn weeks, the crisp chill of evening mikes a warm wrap very comfortable - and Bummer wraps are not adequate. ' The new wraps are very likable, for they are extremely practical. Most of them can b- worn in the street, and all women appreciate that quality In a dressy wrap. It is not always possible to have an equipage, yet one cannot very well wear an ordinary topcoat over an evening pnwn. The wrap that looks formal and that Miirpe.sf.s an evenlnrr ocr,iion, yet is not too ÜKht and conspicuous to be worn throuch the MroH or cn a suburban train Is always a quick sIcr. Arab Humour Craze In ParM

t The Arab folds hi parment about

him and silently steals away Just as I

j he folds his tent and silently teils i away according to the familiar line. -' And the Arab burnouse that fol abi:t the figure in loo?o. graceful

Jrapery is the bit of the reason in Pari. Those charming wraps are made of soft, heavy fabrics; of satin

erythins coats, tailored Jackets and even frocks. The deep cape on this nishnl wrap may be swathed up about the throat and turned into a big collar. Like all the wraps of this character, the one pictured Is very richly lined with heavy, soft satin. Some of these satin linings are in plain, vivid color; others are striped. The bright hued lining of rich satin Is a very important feature of any wrap designed for formal wear, for half the time it Ls thrown over a chair behind its wearer, or is worn partly open, revealing it.s lining and the beautiful evening gown beneath.

Gorgeous Wraps For livening Wear Some of the new wraps are entirely for evening wear and are not intended fur an afternoon or Mrcct appearance. But those are warm and protecting too. for the wearers ma' have to stand in draughty foyers waiting for limousines while long lines of equipages draw up bffore restaurant or theitre entrance, and nobody wants to

catch a bad cold in a thin silk wrap

over a thin evening gown. The new fur fabrics for evening wraps are very beautiful and they are often combined with Georgette or chiffon, the contrasting texture of the materials setting off each rich stuff to advantage. Three evenin; wraps of the sort are pictured and the most Interesting

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er end may bo thrown over one shoulder. A coat of gray fur fabric by Doucet has a collar of the material reaching In Ions stole ends to the very foot of the garment. Narrow lines of gray fox are set acro53 the stole ends in ladder effect anl over the stole collar Is a smaller collar of gray fox. Some of the Paris wraps are trimmed with black mongolia or goat's hair. Others have rabbit dyed black. Kcdlnjrotcs Introduced Again Rivals of the Arab burnouse are the trim redingotes. Several French couturiers are trying: very hard to bring back the redingote and some handsome models have been launched, but mostly, women prefer the loose, wrappy coat for evenin? wear. Couturiers are trying to get around this preference by putting hu?e dolman

sleeves on their redingotes for. of course, a loose sleeve is absolutely essential in any coat to be donned over a delicate evening frock. Madeleine et Madeleine have a very handsome redingoto of gray wool velour with dolman sleeves and pane's at back and front richly embroidered with Chinese blue ?dlk. The collar Is trig and military a wide, straight band lapped at one side and fastened with an enormous blue and gray enameled button. Bernard shows a coat of sunset pink cheviot smocked at the fides of the waistline to give it th fitted redingote effect, -while back and front hang in straight lines. A deep shawl collar and wide cuffs are of striped duvetyn. An adorable little hat. or tarn cap, really, goes with this wrap. The draped crown is of pink cheviot and the slashed, turned-up brim of

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striped duvetyn. One of the pleasingly practical coatwraps 13 a Precoll model of green duvetyn with bands of steel bead embroidery down the dolman eve und around the garment at the hips. Collar and cuffs are of moleskin, put on in narrow flat bands. This coat has the Arab burnouse l!ns very looseabove the hips nnd quite narrow and wrapped-about-t he-figure in effect below the hips. Perhaps the most porgous of the new evening wraps la a Worth crf-atlon of Chinr?e Mue velvet, metal brocade and silk fringe over half a yird lor.?.

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. , , . . ' I model is the one v.orn by Miss Jane w panr.e c.vet. of plush and particular- , 4U a . " k. , i ' . M aprice, the dainty screen star who i . ly of hand,-. nne fur fabru s. which I . ' , .... ,Ui . , 1 f-iM-m r-n. . i protests th.it this wrap of dove gray las. iion not or.iv 1 inction.s but com-, . . , , . 0m,., . audubon and Georgette is the wrap mends now that fur is so very scarce , , . . , ,, . . ,,v , .v. . , vhe lovea best of all. One does not and hlh priced that it renu res a ... .

" ctmM .v . onuer. consiiierjnK us oe?ommgness:

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seal, mink cr sable. An authoritative

couturier stands sponsor for the model j developed in n:.hni. a Shelton looms j

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fur fabric made up in the favored Arab burnouse style. The picture of this wrap shows the folded-about-the-figure effect which is so graceful. The

upper part has a loose bulky sup;es-

so

enlng of heavy

gray i-llk floss adds to the richness. Another very dainty wrap of panoply, a new material with the texture of panne velvet and a sheen like rich satin, has a scarf collar that tosses over one shoulder in a tasseled end. the other scarf-end falling in front

1 always a most graceful arrangement.

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i c.csely about the limbs that a taper-;, .. ., r , p. . . , . loose wrappy I nes favored now. in? lne Is g;ven. Th:s nishnl coat i might a'.rr.cst be genuine Hudson seal'' The s!cev drapery is especially notln texture ar.d 'fcei, and it is a veryabledistinguished and beautiful garment j A Stunning Model Of Panoply Brocade and delightfully warm and comfy i one of the mcst satisfactory wraps

too. with its great collar swathed up about the throat.

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Trimmed With Kcal Fur Many of these fur fabric wraps are

pictured on today s rage is the model cf panoply in an all-over Irecade pattern, with a big collar cf white fox. It is black and is lined with white

trimmed with real fur and there Is noj 5atin. Tf.e drapery at the back falls incongruity in the blending of the ma-j ln a deep loop to the h:p. reveal-Ins a

teriais. ao rich. Is the texture of tne

i white satin facir.c

wraps latric Another nLsr.nl wrap pictured has ban.Is of Australian orosjum that loe'v rr.iv nelt that I

1s .- like ch!nrhii:.i cn th rare at the siJe5

and on the sleeves. Th's is a verv ! c' tJe evening frock and is so con

in this burnouse

hood, and the white satin lining shows effectively under the cascade drapery

It comes below the hem

practical affair, suitable for afternoon wear and very good-looking in the street as well as quite distinguished enough for a restaurant or a limouine. The lines are loobe and roomy at the shoulders, tapering toward the lower edge, and like all the new coatwraps, this one has dolman sleeves. The cape is distinctly a Parisian fcature. Paris Ls quite mad about capes Just now. and is putting them on ev-

scrvative and elegant in its color and lines that it may be worn through the street on a winter night. The white fox collar, in combination w-ith the rich black panoply and white satin facings, is very stunning. Some cf the wraps have enormous shawl collars of the material, one end falling much longer than the other end. so that when the collar Is wrapped up about the neck the long-

BOUT every so often there Is

talk of a uniform for woman

something sensible and practical; presentable yet superior to

the whims and fancies of fashion. Something that can be worn season after season, as man's attire is worn, without tho everlasting changes ln skirt lengths, skirt widths, sleeves, necklines, etc.. that make it so hard to keep up with feminine styles when one happens to be a busy, mentally occupied person. Thirty years ago Dr. Mary Walker tried to Introduce a radical reform In feminine dress, but the trousers and .frock coat of Dr. Walker did not appeal to her sisters and they clung to their pull-backs, bustles and tight corsets, refusinK to give up these modish frivolities for a sterner and more sensible type of dre&s. About twenty years ago the shirtwaist and skirt became almost a uniform. For the business woman, the saleswoman and strong minded women generally a white shirtwaist and a black skirt formed the proper and accepted costume. But white waists and dark skirts were terribly unbecoming to all but slim, lithe, long walsted feminines this was the time when the Gibson Girl was the artistic Ideal. Gibson Girls In shirt and skirt costume, with stiff shirtwaists puffed out at the bust and tapering sharply to the belt and with belts pointing sharply down Into a skirt that swept the floor in bell" folds, and with monstrous pompadours topped by perilously balanced hats, looked out from framed pictured in every home. Finally the white waist and dark skirt grew wearisome and even the business women and saleswomen went back to whole frocks, elbow sleeves and diaphanous effects. The shirtwaist began to be called a blouse, though many people considered the term affected at first. Then came the war and it really looked as though woman waj going to adopt something sensible and uniform in the way of attire, after the months of plain, practical, comfortable dress. But you know what happened to feminine cos-

turne directly after tho war. Not in the memory of woman have clothes been so frivolous, so elaborate, so expensive as they have been during the past twenty months. ,The pendulum swung back violently once femininity g'ot away from war clothes and fashion has fairly rioted ln frills, furbelows, bright colors, transparencies, and costly embroideries. Now, however, it looks as though something were really coming in the way of a comfortable, proper, convenient and attractive modo of dress for woman. It is called the conservative costume, because though really quite radical viewed from old-fashioned standpoints of propriety it Is perfectly conservative and in very good taste according to 1920 notions. It consists of three parts: A graceful little dolman wrap of Jacket, an extremely good looking tailored frock, and an under garment which one might call breeches. Tou need nothing else except a soft silk union suit, unless you prefer to wear a girdle corset though, of course, many women who are slender enough are now dispensing with corsets entirely. Three pictures cf this admirable costume are presented and you must admit that it is a very' good looking affair. It is beautifully tailored and is made of fine materials, so it will endure a long time as a man expects his new suit to endure, well through two seasons, with frequent visits to the tailor for pressing and cleaning. And not even a necktie Is needed to finish off the costume. You get into it and are ready to start anywhere! And how easy it is to get Into! Two snappers at the houlder. and three buttons at the belt fasten the one-piece frock. The skirt will fall in correct lines, with graceful pleats .t the side, but you can rause to fasten the skirt-buttons if you have time. The lines of the frock are excellent and are becoming to tall or short, stout o lean figures. The skirt is short enough to walk in comfortably anl if you do net care for the rather smart feature of trouser-cuff howing

an Inch below skirt hem, you can have the trouser-cuff shorter. A delightful quality of the frock is its wonderful lightness. One feels its weight no more than the weight cf a silk bathing dress. Both garments hang from the shoulder and the frock is belted loosely at the waistline, giving a flat, youthful line at back and front of the figure. What a ccstume for traveling! Nothing but one's nightie and a change of silk union suits to be carried in the traveling bag along with toilet requirements no bother about

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clean blouses, fresh neckwear, belts, breastpins or petticoats. The business woman will appreciate this costume because of the ease and celerity with which it can be donned of a morning because of its tailored trimness and neatness. Tho wrap that accompanies the frock Is especially smart and graceful and Ls patterned after a small capeJacket much fancied In Paris Just now. On warm days in autumn a little fur neckpiece will be all one needs with the neat frock, and in very cold weather a fur Jacket may be substl-

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Out-Of-Doors Tho New Cof.uma Ixolii Uko Till, Tlio Graceful Short Jacket With Capo Sleeves Patterned After A Popular Mode In Pari.

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Sec How Lisht The IYck k Is And How Comfortable, Worn Our IW atit if ull Fitting .Satin Knickers. And How Slim One Will Look In It:

tops will give the proper he cc?turr.e. And natur-

' ally no woman who adptj this con-

J servative costume will

( tvith frivclcus

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; dreI Or.- of the Illus'rar.s shows the j frck dvf leped :n dark serge with

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spoil Its effect

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correctness ln

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In another picture

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tuted for the graceful wrap. Of course, ii pnrti'juiarly graceful an

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costume

this sort

rather small

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smart hat a turhm. . f.-'vk is r.ude r th hir. i.- rr.e

'. tricorr.e cr sailor rather than a pic- . silk ith a I:r...:g of :;r-jr-d taff.'-ta. I The Graceful And Becoming Frock Is ture hat with feathers cr flowers, fostt ns fr.M chin to wail no wl Just What Every Woman Wants i Pumps, oxfords with buttoned spits ov rri ! .; ;-; an i ic.ps in the lat For General Wear All Winter. i or very neat buttoned boots with well est French fashion.

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