South Bend News-Times, Volume 37, Number 246, South Bend, St. Joseph County, 2 September 1920 — Page 6

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-1 'v V? .-sw jtc . -3 . . . I Li. LTD clack TaiP Kai of Velvet Yys a Soft Plumes and Lace Veils Achieve the Utmost of Grace - Stiff Wings Folded Closely Around Hatbrims Are Severe But Chic Smart Small Hats With Coq Trimming Small and Medium Shapes Most Fancied. HE feathered hat of autumn Is cither soft-lined and exquisitely graceful; or stiff, smart and alert in suggestion. Not all feathers tr.ul richly over the hatbrim. or nod softly over the crown. The range of new feather trimming includes all the stiff varieties too coq. fancy -wing?, j lonif whisps, clipped pheasant and va- ( rious osprey effects. The mingling of I two colors in sharp-pointed wings that fold around the hat, is a notable fea- j ture. One of the pictured hats shows t black and white wings of this type, j These wings, of course. nevr sprouted on any bird of known variety. The Ions', pointed pinion is entirely artificial but no one can dispute its smart, ness. Black and white quills cf graduated length are attached to a lonp: trlp of white grebe and the tips of the quills are clipped off in a straight line at the edge of the hatbrim. The long- wing Is effectively arranged cros the front of an ordinary lowcrowned, wide-brimmed sailor of black hatters' plush, the wing being pleated or bent over on Itself midway to break the long1, flat effect. Clack And Wl-ito AVings Arc Clilc Paris Just now adores the little, tlptllted clocho shapo entirely covered with feathera In black and white. One cf these little chapeaux is pictured and you will admit It is a most piquant affair. Except for a black velvet bow tet across the back, the whole hat is covered with black and white feathers downy little clipped pheasant feathers, and over this feather background are arranged stiff, small white wings bound with black velvet and radiating from a bow of black velvet which stretched from front to back of the crown. Never wag a more cunning little hat; its shape and style are reminiscent cf the seventies, but the arrangement of feathers and wings is luite new. Teakcd Chinese Crowns On Turbans The hat crowns of autumn are mostly draped affairs of velvet or other surple fabrics, and all crowns are roomy and rather low. All except the peaked Chinese crown which I? the exception to genera; rule, and j which is making a decided hit. The Chinese crown is in triangular section?, but is quite different from the roundinr. melon crown; It points up ward In a sharp peak and rises from j a perfectly round brim, the whole hat j built lrtro enough, however, to settle j . eil down on the head. Eyebrows are I even less fashionable than they wt ret last winter. You may glimpse them inlcors but rarely In the strict. The! fetching little Chinese turban picture ! Is made cf dark brown velvet ar.d the cording is piped with apricot velvet. The trailing co feather, which does seem to be exactly the trimming for. his particular style of hat. !s In the ; apricot shade. Thcs has are charm-I io 'n blick with whit trimming.! with whit trimming. in dark Mue cr.ty trimmlnc. : promise t? be very ropu.ir w.:n( younger women of course, nobo.'.y over twenty-five would be foolish r.ouch to put one on! Many Varieties Of Co,i Sometimes coa. plumage is split Into -y strands that curl very gracefully o er hatbrims. There is aio the glyc-; e rir-.t l ost : which has th:s airy, though neither coq nor :atc effev ch can ever hope to compe'e in r.ice and beauty with a natural, curled ostrich fe-ither. A military looking turban of the smart, severe tyre has a tall tepknet of glycerir.1 ostrich standing straight up at '

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A. Brasil TurbanTairly CJ ver p ov,"s!?red the front. Another hat. a draped boat shaped model of brown velvet, has plit coq trailing off at the back, over crown and brim distinctly different effects, you see; and both authoritatively correct. This difference In trimming arrangement is apparent in two feathered hat. p'.ctured; one a veil-draped affair with an upstanding ostrich tip. the other a flat little turban swathed in a down-drooping plume. The fact is j that feathers may be uod any way' you please ' long as feathers are used! Feathers are becoming as In-, evitable in American millinery a they j have always been in English mlllin-1 cry. xngiisn women English women always wear ; ! feathers when dressed In their best. and even in seasons when plumage has not been particularly fashionable in Paris. French milliners had to create feather-trimmed chapeaux for English women. From grand my lady who wears three feathers In her formal coiffure when she makes her bow to royalty, to the Cockney charwoman whr f.ikps nriila in hur hAHrii.ln ! - - - . - - - . I . v. .v. V ' Iii s I I. U A?HrW nliimo PnMlcS f I , . ! accepts the feather a the sign manual i of elegance and distinction In costume! and here in America feathers are coming to be almost as popular as they' are In England. The French woman does not care much for feathers. She wears them now and again, when the fancy strikes her; but she soon tires of any one trimming In millinery. She prefers odd. queer feather effects to conventional plumes, .plit. burnt and glyeerined ostrich of course originated! in Paris Two of these fre iki-h and "different" father arranct ments dear to the ; Parisian heart, come from Lewis and j irotn Ecu;s -n. The Lewis hat is of I Mack silk beaver, with width elongated' rrom side to s:de. ph. a sized by two Thi3 width if em-1 p. i.zca v two enormous r.ims ; enormous horns of g'.ycerir.e ! ostrich which stand out at eithtr .Mde. Tho feather ! urLiiu-nts are attached at the top of i :.:e crown and make a perfectly tralght line with the crown, outward,, for about four inches, then they curl down and around, ending under the r.a: at each ear veritable rams' horns and most unique in effect, the Faris Tremendously chic from : a n d p o '. n The Loui'or. hat is a cap-like turran o: thick. irregular fringe of yellow A.. V.1 I , . o'.r;c. iu;.idu aa arouna over race. ostrich hair and neck. Much smarter and mcie desi.ubl this we: hat than anv sedate model created for an Eng-

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ApRONS AT T

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EAP me. whoever thought aprons J together, there are scores of fascinatwould come forward as a feature j lng aprons In original and intriguing of costume? The apron has been styles. The favorite material for sofor so long a workaday thing : called "dressy" aprons the kind you

' ' r. , i i it does seem odd to see it incor-1 aris frocks for formal oct trt ia the case, anu i ai)rons are now the piece de resistance j of afternoon and evening toilettes. The anron entered the Held slyly, as a sort of seml-oversklrt. called an , apron tunic. It hung betöre or Denma the skirt in pleats of draped folds ; Lint winter- hut with this autumn season it comes boldly forward as a bona I fide apron, fluttering from a belt rib-! bon. Cheruifs most popular frock at ' - J - - - "Z.h:i I mnl lines anu wun a suun, j apron of hemstitched and pleated . handkerchief linen hanging from a belt. The bodice was cut out in a , deep square at the neck and in tnis , square was a vestee or lucjeea ana hemstitched handkerchief linen. At a little distance the dark blue frock seemed to be tidily adorned with a cunning bib-apron. And. of course, since aprons have stepped into the limelight ls modish - . . j accessories of the formal costume. they are quite the rage as accessories 0f tne indoor, or house costume. Tne chatins-di a frivolous with ribbon ÜLSU iri wears i apron of lace and lawn strings that tie in a pert bow. and f0n.Jf.ttLch ribbon bows on diminutive pockets. The hostess has a fascinatlnrr little tea apron which Is supposed to protect her rtty frock though .he got along tidily enough without the apron for a pood many years. And.,' 'of course, there are Innumerable aprons for other household use-s for knitting, for darning, for embroidering, for making fudge, for toasting muffins before the grate fire at Sunday night tea. for dusting, for washinc teacups and so on. This infinite quantity of Aprons i means much variety in the style of

aprons and on the counters of the j gUred at the poor chap w ho was quite Woman's Exchange, where in almost puzzled by her resentment of his reevery city and town the latest things mark. To him. an apron was a dein feminine handiwork are gathered l lightful housewifely touch that --ould

NEWS-TIMES. SOUTH BEND, IXD.

. lj3h lady with a conventional plume winding around a conventional picture shape. But the Kngllsh beauty in her plume-adorned picture hat has been proverbial, from the days when r.omney and Gainsborough painted these beauties. No hat is quite so becoming as a graceful, conventionally shaped velvet hat trimmed with very rich (and rather conventionally placed) ostrich plumes. No other style of millinery can hope to equal this style. When Veils AM Ami Abet Feathers The small hat with an up-standing feather ü.nd a drooping veil is a typical English style. There is nothing par wear when pouring tea or making fudge is sheer handkerchief linen scauorea ana emnroiaereu oy nanu. An apron of the sort Is pictured and ja dainty affair it Is. to be sure a i most delightful Christmas gift to make ; for anybody! The shape is square. witn one ease oi me square cm ou in scallops as the picture shows entire edec of the apron 1? hand-seai- i loped. Lso the upper edge of the tiny pocket. And please remember that tne pocket of a frivolous little apron UKC lnl5 mUSl De a UHUiUU? ,.o.it. Uc 100 tln- t0 nyinins m a-. copt one-s fingertips. Uuttonhoiea ; sIashes acroj- the top of the apron! afe tnrea(Jo wItn ribbon. and the rib- i bon L. madc intQ a rosette at either. slde of the arronf the rbbon belt fas tening under a rosette with a snapper. This apron is white with pink and pale green embroidery in forget-me-not pattern. A similar apron is of pale pink handkerchief linen with embroidery in white. Some of these dainty little tea aprons, or fud; ;e aprons or chafingdish apron3 as you choose to desigrate them are of dotted swii-s wi'h trimming of Val. lace insertion and frill;; or of filet lace in a flat edging.; Dearly does man love a little apron of this kind. It is almost utterly useJess as far a? keeping its wearer from splashing her frcck is concerned but to man it is the sign and symbol of rou5ewife!lnes? and domesticity. A very charming little school teacher known to the writer, was once highly insulted because while she was con- j eoctlng a rarebit a man In the party i ventured to suggest: "Where's your; apron?" To the sehoolma'am a neat! little apron was the emblem of teach- . crhooa and splnsternooa. the wore( aprons In business hours but never at j any other time. She flushed up and'

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: ...V";-t:,j . ... ' . .y-A z r' v-.Ä.V " rr -iv-'-i, -t. ; - . . A Tall Plume ? w -L 5 ' " ;-. Combine -o"Ms"ke Slyle and Graice ticularly strikinc in thj shape of the hat or the arrangement of the feather but perfect grace is achieved in the complete effect and the soft lace veils adds not a little to the grace and becomlngncss of the hat. The little hat, so c"quettishly rolled up at one side, and the handsome ostrich tip are a deep beautiful tlue shade and the silk mesh veil in lace pattern is taupe coior, With a frock of black I

satin and Georgette and taupe fox i with gorgeous orange ostrich under; at continuity of line, but it :s a ratner ncckpirce this hat Is very effective land over the brim. The feathers are ' -tunning little affair this hat. verand enchantingly becoming to its j well placed, in this hat. to balance the'thele?. ar.d a model from a mii'.iner wearer. Analyzing this enchantment. ! line?, and the otrich rffect grow ' v.-hos-r tate is never di-put d anl who one rinds it is not striking smartness 1 heavier and thicker as the line droops can charge a'.rnost anything for her but. appealing charm that makes the! over from the upper left to the lower j creation?.

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have made perfect the domestic looking little woman at thi chafing-dsh. lie had really admired the little teacher very much, but always after that he was a bit wary of her as a bluestocking who held domestic things in contempt. Peal work aprons ar not made of i ? n !.- siii'j i.u.1, 2a1.u1 i HJUUII rosettes. They are more sturdy affairs that can visit the washtub week, lv and that will reallv nrotprt ho I - J ' ..s. The dusting apron illustrated Tliis Is A Mending Aprxm With Iockcts For Scissors And Small Sowing j Ileloninz. It Is Madc Of Linen' Buttonholed With Colored Wool. '

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hat fo adorable. Charm always wins, i you know, over smartness, expensive-!

j ness or .striking style. And the charm and frcakishne s.-- of feather arranse- ! of this hat is due to Its grace, its dig- ment is shown in the small turban 1 nity and its perfect balance of line. j swathed with an uncurled ottrich I Another verv graceful model is tho ; feather. The feather falls every

roll-brim hat of tete de negre velvet i will anneal to everv vioman. It '.si i smart and pretty enough to appear at I the front window when vou shake out your duster yet it is a very prac- ' tical apron and covers the frock well. ! i -. . . - . . ..' It is mnde of pale green linen wi'h I biack pipings at edge and pockets; j and i? embroidered in darker green land black wool. The apron fastens ) with a strap buttoned acro-s the back, i from hip to hip. and a similar strap l goes around the neck and buttons to i i Thv Hostess Wears A Tea Apron To Protect Her Pretty lYock. Tho Apron Is Of Hand Scalloped Linen Embroidered IVith Wild Koos. the bib. An aprcn of this sort may be made cf natural colored iir.en with brown embroidery, or of gray linen with nasturtium embroidery. Another useful apron is the sowing apron picture j. Or cr.e may wear it when knitting, or doing embroidery. , or darning stockings Scraps cf Silk i ! embroidery f.o or kr.'ting wool are , har-i to pick off a pleated woo! skirt and most worm wear s ich skirts with blouses during informal Lour3 of the day in autumn and winter. The little apron keeps one specklessly nat and :s a great cor.vnaiao

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"Dron Velvet Hödel and Under tKe B-rvm

A ft 5 hAbirvQ on right where the feathers touch he shoulder. An i.van.r'lt of French chic which way, with no apparent attempt 7. . i 1 - 7 ,t V . i : mx:xi Äk: ri' w y . Ducting Apron, Easr To Put f)n And Oil And Made Of C,rc-n Linen With Smart Mack, W hite And (ire n Lmbroldcry. I srtssors an ü c :prr.T.?s the j 'owing art may he drcrped into the dr-cp pockets an 1 one is not cor.tinua!lv 5'oopir.g to pi'k up things from I the floor. Th rrron picture"! Is maie I of linf n embro i i-re I wih wool In . cross-bar : ,tch. The urper edre Of on the pocket nr..4. th dgf are Trimmed wih ricrac braii. Across the por'rift rjr.5 the -ignlf.'Mr. lr.r.r tion: "A Stitch In Time."' Did vou ever make a kitchn apr 'e linn .to: out dfscarJed w skirt? ?'yles er. a rs I .aps your skirt .n nr.' n : : t he. r '. r V In s i . yet the goci I; wars ou : ' iwav. Cut th r.f-n t.. at .'.r oo valuable p . r n e v e r to th.cw i skirt strai? the mldd". of the back, i-prfai It out ar. j cut w h i r h w to hem. from it a V 1 -v crcu.sr apron drss frcm bl ill cover yo j; You can ge e ncuph mak a straight belt.

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and the circular apron can be r.f a'.y bound with the folded lawn t:ni;ng

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