South Bend News-Times, Volume 36, Number 250, South Bend, St. Joseph County, 7 September 1919 — Page 28

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raid Trimmed Craze Ap pears In KeadwearSqft" Brimmed Millinery Expres sion Immensly Chic.

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A Fabric Hat AIwys Adds Charm to the Wearer.

Hat of Double Brim Is Very Chic In Appearance.

Get a Deep Brimmed Hat If You Want Something different.

WHAT woman can paas a millinery chop "Without pausing Ins to talro a pcep at the display of fc&ta la the window? The stales 2x)Tru cero oro undouMedly bocomtng acd chic enough to claim the attention of any "woman who prides herself on possessing tho late3t thing ta bead wear. At the left la the nrwr deeply brimmed hat. Wide brlma, and Increasingly wide brims, vro have had with ua all during the last pcason, but th ono "which we are Just entering upon has brought with it a distinct millinery Innovation. It is the deeply brimmed hat, sometimes expressed in double and triple frf?CCt3. The Orustratlon 13 one of the earliest fall modes. The foundation 13 a email crushroom satin, with a very narrow brim and an unusually high boxed crown. The deep e3ect 1b achieved by the application of a wide, soft band cf velvet placed upstanding tcround the outside edge of the brim. It Is drawn over In Jaunty effect over the left eye, Mid fastened up on the right 6ido to -balance the line with two Jtt buttons. The result Is a soft becomlngness which ft Is almost Impossible to achieve with the uncompromising brims which wo have become lxmared to. Needl ess to add, tho whole hat Is black, as are almost all of the first fall creations. In the center, at the top. Is the latest double brim creation. Doubtless you know that double-brimmed hats the very latest and most popular importations from Paris. Even In csls you are not aware of this Important fact, you know that the softbrimmed millinery expression illustrated la immensely becoming and chic Like most of the early fall models, it Is all black. The whole hat Is made of velvet, tut the wide ribbon which encircles tho crown and ends in a ßoft fringed bow at the side gives the effect of a two-material confection. Tho brim is foft and broad, falling Into delightful ripples and curves about th face of the "wearer. The crown Is, cddly enough, rather high and narrow. This Is a hat which will do service all winter long with a top-coat or tailored suit Just now, it wiU be rery much In demand to wear with lingerie dresses for the last few times when such costumes will be seasonable. Modish Fabric Hat. The modish fabric hat is shown at the right. One eeo3 more and more of them every day. And they are smart and eo adnpted to the fpcrts type of hat. This one is of sill: and velvet with Just tho quaintest cf zigrag ftitchery round and round the oft crown. Tha brim 13 cf black velvet with facing of white patin; It is rather fetiff. this brim, and it has mushroom tendencies. What a rrotty and effective contrast to the crown, so soft that it chans? 3 its lines every time tho wearer ruts it on. There Is a bit of gro?grain ribbon dividing the si He of the crown from the velvet of the brim; three little loops of the ribbon 0:1 the iipht side Kive just the Irsir J chic. Iklow is a hat on which braid simuh'itfs stitching on gorjrettc. Kverything is braid-triinmod now. The craze La fcvta sonc to hata. This iu.rticu-

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Fashlongrams Envelope brini3 on felt hats are new; they turn up sheer off tho face and appear to be pasted flat against the crown. Many of the suit blouses are long walstcd perhaps In Imitation of the long-popular tunic, giving the effect of the three-piece costume. If you are thinking of getting a new set of fur3 this year, get something richly brown and-you will be in tho top-notch of the fashion. A fur scarf and muff all In one piece Is not only an economy in fur, but a very fetching sort of accessory. Deep fur bands placed on the bottom of suit jacket fo iq a combination muff and pocket all the way round the coat. Algerian red is a warm and rich looking color which is being featured for fall topcoats. Fine feathers make fine birds, and huge tulle sashes make delightful dance frocks out of very simple little models. The correct neckwear for the woman in mourning Is made of organdy and trimming with bias hemstitched bands.

lar model chose to express Itself in belgo georgette. Smart it was of line before It decided on further decoration. Then it attained to real distinction. No wonder, with ropey silk braid traveling all over it with studied carelessness, and then a slap-dash of a grosgraln ribbon to top It all off. The 'ribbon is brown, and so is the braid. Also tho facing of the hat is brown. And an ideal between-season thing it makes, too. In fact, one might with perfect style assurance wear it well on Into tho winter for dress-up. a Neat or Chic THAT'S a dreadful reputation to get, yet there are so many, nice ladles who deserve every single bit of Itnow aren't there? Ono sees them everywhere; they just come within one or two inches of being really chic. But that little inch or two is quite enough to spoil all their chances of ever being really chic. You see, neatness Is only the beginning of chic; but so many persist in making it tho end. No one can attain to real style unless there is a good foundation on which to build, and that foundation is absolute cleanliness and neatness together with irreproachable fit No one .vill dispute the important role that a well-fitting corset plays. It is at the foundation that neatness should ceas to be bu obvious. Perhaps there is no word in the fashion dictionary so widely misunderstood and mi'interpreud as "simple." One ?ees the mcst obvious of dresses almost utterly devoid of trimming, with not even a single surprise, no trick of Uipn, end it la called "simple." Some of the so-called simple dresses are to much so that they lose all style value. Simplicity as used in reference to dress does not necessari-

Uraid Simulates Stitching on This Georgette Model. BEAUTY AND LACK OF IT BOTH GO TO THE HEADS OF SOME FOOLISH GIRLS

THE pretty girl foreve'r primping, resorting to artificiality to enhance her already attractive looks, is an object of much fun-poking, but the girl not so richly endowed In the matter of looks wearing uer heart out in self-pity is a truly sorry sight. There is an appalling number of females that come to answer this last description. Every one is familiar with the girl who picks up her handglass and then proceeds to view herself with an attitude so hypercritical that it is small wonder she dots not some time "end it all." One girl blessed with a complexion possessing all tho fine qualities of delicate texture, transient coloring, smoothness and absolute freedom from any sort of blemish, used to see nothing but the tendency of her skin to waver Just about two shades from the much-desired lily whiteness. "Oh, such a complexion," she would ejaculate every single time that she glanced at her own reflection, which was not exactly infrequent. Then would follow a spasmodic lemon treatment, one application of which, failing to produce instantaneous results, was abandoned for something el?e. By the way, the girl's complexion is still two shades away from her heart's desire. Furthermore, there Is an unly imply any degree of commonplace. It means directness of design, elimination of all meaningless trimming and accessories. In other words it means a frock or coat expressing one idea with a surprise to boot.

becoming droop to her mouth and a hint of lack luster in her otherwise brilliant eyes, if anything her complexion looks even more yellow; and all due to constant fretting, self-pity. Of course, the really imbeautiful who contend that they haven't a single saving feature will contend that they are Justified in their self-pity. All of which is an unpardonable exaggeration, for there is no one who hasn't at least one beauty point, if not potential, all-around beauty. Now that the purely physical side of beauty Is being considered, complexion, it is agreed, must come first. If this self-piteous girl is not blessed wltb a good one, she must work for It. and if she works hard enough she will have no time for destructive worry. Cosmetics won't do It, at least not alone. She must get the health hobby, eradicate the glooms, play more and forget about herself. Then will the magic begin to work beyond her flightiest imaginings. Admittedly there are some disfigurements that are not remediable. Well, then, the only logical thing to do is to put them far Into the background by bringing out the good points. "Beauty emphasized attracts," you know. Perhaps it ii a glorious pair of eyes that constitute the good point. Then take extraordinary good care of them. If it is shiny locks, well, care for them as you would for a child. On one particular girl it was the small matter of wonderfully trained brows and lashes. But they were so very well done that observers overlocked all other shortcomings in the

These Hints Will Help You Conserve Your Table Linen EVERY housewife knows and shudders at the soaring and almost prohibitive prices of table linens in these times, and the problem of nappery and replenishing the perhaps diminishing supply looms paramount. A great many people in this crisis h:.vo resorted to the use of doilies exclusively, as being less expensive, in the first place, and rather more economical In laundering. This 15 a very charming compromise, but one which does not always solve the real problem at hand. For the breakfast or luncheon table fet for from two to four persons runners crossed in the center of the table are a very good ubstitute for the plate dollies. Figured Japanese runners oa rather coarse white, in green, blue, brown and pink, are quite attractive for this purpose. The advantage of using thiä material lies in the fact that small hemstitched napkins in the same design may be purchased to match, making a complete set. If tho Japanese cotton idea appeals as a trifle too summery, use ordinary crash toweling, such as is ordinarily used for tea towels. This comes with either a dark blue or red stripe along the edge or in a plain unmarked ecru shade. If the touch of color seems desirable, it is a mightj good idea to draw a couple of threads at the ends and hemstitch the hem in colored floss. Of course, it is quite impossible to use napkins to match. Very often it is unnecessary to purchase new materials with which to make doilies to displace the wornout table cloths. Take the last-named apparently hopeless articles, and you will se that most of the wear is Just around tho edge, where it sbows the worst when the cloth Is on the table. Cut oft all the torn and worn parts, and then cut up the remaining whole portions into square or circular doilies. These may be hemmed by hand or machine hemstitched. Scalloping makes a lorely edge, but it Is doubted whether the expenditure of no much time would pay. If the doille i cut are square or oblong It will save a lot of material which would be wasted were the pattern circular.

Daily Helps

A quick and easy way to clean nickel on stove or kettles is to use No. 00 steel wool. Have used this: it is fine. —o— After taking pies from oven have a piece of board covered with oilcloth on the back of stove to set them on; will save steps to table or closet. —o— When making starch, if a little kerosene is added it will make the clothes lion much nicer and prevent the irons from sticking, but loaves no odor. A good substitute for scouring powder, use finely sifted ashes. —o— After the day's outing when your white shoes have numerous dirty spots which seem almost hopeless, take a piece of fine sandpaper, and after a little rubbing your shoes will be as fresh as when new. This is especially good For Cooler Days THE craze for capos is becoming as strong as the craze for sweaters. In fact the cape gives every indication of establishing itself in milady's wardrobe indefinitely. whether you have a cape, or whether you haven't, you are sure to be interested in this very chic v rs'on of it. Then when you consider that it is makeable, your interest is going toIncrease. It is advisable first that you net a

for buck or suede shoes. When your pink silk waist comes out of the water faded almost to white, add red ink to the rinsing water, making the color as deep as you wish by the amount of ink used. —o—

For simplified shirrs. thread the sewing mnchine with fine thread on top and a coarse thread m shuttle. Stitch th- part to be shirred or gathered. Adjust the fulness by drawing the coarse under thread, and you have an even shirring, more true than an be attained by hand or machine attachment. ç

Break ice into lumps, then take an ordinary hatpin, and by piercing the ice perpendicularly with tho pin one can chip a quantity in a few i.vnutts with little effort or waste. This is an excellent help in fiilinrr a thrrmon bottl for iv.o in the sick r.-u-m. The ice is of more uniform sir..'. One bottle ol ice cut in t Iiis manner will s rve a patient all day or i.irht, uej frequently. —o— Iacii' s who are iL-ir own maid r.f all vi!:i; ran i.uke th iv tahb ejr.th do service for a lung' r tim..?. Af: r numerous spots disfigure it snowy whiter. es ', rub a pitee of :i ilk over the spots c.s :.;- appear. This has a magical effect and eorr.pl teiy conceals them from view. If rh" spot are of grease the chalk absorbs it.

A woman who keeps an odorless re-

frigerator accomplishes it by wrapping

all left-overs, such r.s

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Old hot water bags should not be thrown away, as they make excellent linings for song cases or for bags in which to carry bath or tooth brushes, etc., when traveling. Cover the rubber with any bright colored material or with a colored linen. Small pieces of the rubber, cut three Inches and a half by one and a half and sowed with white thread, make good finger stalls to put on when paring fruit and vegetables. They are easily cleaned and may be usei x long time. Another good use is to cut round mats to place under house plants. Such mats will prevent the moisture from the earthenware saucer from injuring polished surfaces.

etc., that hsve a strong flavor, with cloths wrung out of cold water. She keeps a set of cloths for ;he purpose. "Women with plenty rf room never put fish, eabuag or cheese into the refrigerator, becaus." the milk and b'jtttr End ether absorb-nt foods k-. p: there are sure to tal:j th-::r Savor. Chese should never go into the icebox.

owner's appearance. Lastly, all else failing, th-ere are the two great bulwarks of every fascinating wfcman, and they are personality ani dress. Cultivation cf happiness and good taste make thrse possible to every woman who wants hard trough to work hard taouh.

well-fitting pattern for a foundation. Just to get the "hang" of It; for on that depends most of its success. You can easily find a plain cape pattern. Of course you won't get that stunning collar and ve3t treatment. Still that is Just a matter of cutting out a deep caps collar, pointed in front, and provided with tab extensions. The vest effect is secured by cutting two wide bias bands and attaching them some two or three inches up under the cap collar. Finally make slits into which the tabs go. A very deep girdle going all the way round will emphasize the vest simulation. Then double rows of machine stitching and some huge bone buttons do the finishing. And what do you think about navyblue broadcloth for the making? It would be striking with artillery red stitching and buttons.

The Wise Girl THE most attractive girl isn't always the prettiest. In fact to the contrary she is apt to b homely if one were to analyze hrr. You will often find that the girl gifted with beauty is inclined to be a :ittle careless about her toilette, thinking her beauty will pass her through. On the other hand the gir! with a tendency to homeliness will do her be?: to appear smart and attractive. Fortunat for the homely girl she is bound to have one or two good features and if she Is wise she will work on these two points until they outshine her bad ones. If she has a freh, clear complexion she will nurse 1. taking car cf her diet and being snro to get plenty of exercise in fresh air. If she has beautiful eyes she- will be Just as" careful of them, avoiding eyestrain and wearing colors that will bring out their color. She la most certain not to spoil a pretty mouth by biting her lip. Should she bo blessed with an attractive head of hair she w-jll be sure to dress it becomingly and will war hats of a color that deal kindly with Lor crown of clory, . - .