South Bend News-Times, Volume 36, Number 229, South Bend, St. Joseph County, 17 August 1919 — Page 7

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THE SOUTH BEND NEWS-TIMES

M'.-vnw. Ana vr it, 7

DEVOTED TO THE INTERESTS OF WOMEN

AMERICAN BUYE

ARE II

Si Admire Hemstitching? Want to

Learn? Here Are Directions

Al.1l . . .

I ..emsuicnins is such an oui perhaps me misht almost suy ancient j m?thod of decorative stitchinff. tiVt UlCtQtOrS FrOm U. S. eems almost as though every one

' mut know how to do it; neverthe

less, after all, it is not such an uncommon thinfj to hear some woman cay that she- "would like to hemMUch tbose curtains, or that towel or pillowcase if only he knew

how!" So, doubtless, there are some I who v ill welcome specific direction..

Style

View Paris Creations With ''Reservations."

over ond along the forefinger. Thread the needle and fasten the end f.t the thread securely In under the first fold o.f the hem. being sure that no knot is in evidence or can work it s way out of concealment. Then pas the neelle from risht to left, behind a cluster of threads four or five, probably. ;jn-lef-s the threads are too coarse, in which case there might hu enough. and pull it through; pass it

i around these threads airain and

PAULS, Au. 16 Pari.V first real display of styles sine? the war be-

KUM 19 Lein nxrne.i ouvj Suppoj. on0f beffinH wllh a table I then draw the neodle through the American buyers, who, however. arrunnpr or 1Jn,.n. tnat H nh,)Ut a.j folded edge of the hem. bein carehOÄh,? tn. ms. lv. s to be more in-1 as anything one could hnd. ful. however, not to push it through dfj.en l'-nt of the dictates of I- rencn j r:-ch rnd of rourBr mtist hem-J the fabric bohir.d the hem. and pull 'll,'sss;nak"'s thi,,n "v'r hfrr-- tftitch-d. The first thinq to do is to j the thread tiphtly. thus drawing

Jiro-vn. according 10 me r,ew ; be sur"

r.Md h arun in marKed tavor. ;

S.Jt nat.-rUN are u-:d

..nd t".oi'prs.

. . i V-i .. r .- m i ill a liin(i tfiTard I . - . - I

th- strictly feminine appearance. Th'-r" U not the slightest sugscesnc:i of the masculine- tailor-m;wle uV-jts of the past. .sklt.s Tui lions.

.... ,

th'U the lren is cat even-1 these tour or live threads into a

' th it ?w 1 i t Vir-, nil T Vi r t I rr. rn r- t irrmn TVi tr c t Vi n a v t

r- - 4 v n i -j i1 ii kill t alio, iiii. nanu u uiuu. t panniers and the e-lUp0n an,j twice that distance, with . very time, and proceed in the same

way, j nd so on until the whole dls-

the tirt turning, allowed before be- tance has ieen covered

I'iriM Is clinging to skirts hansing se.f.n to eik'ht inches from the? rou.id. Americ'in buyers, the dresrnak say, are ridiculint; th short-r.e.-:-of tiie gowns, although frankly admitting American skirts have been too l ng. One prominent American iiuyrr said tfday that "no well formed woman looks well in a really long s-kirt and it cannot be grace"American women have the prettiest ankles and feet in the world." th buyer replied, "a.id they also re the test shod, but they realiz that he extremely rhort skirts are rldlr il -d and they believe in moderation. Although the Americans designed th"ir own styles to a great extent .iuring the war they apparently are finding much that is worth while in the I'arU display rooms, although viewing things from a newindependent point of view. Passport difficulties, it was said, kept the number of American buyers from being much larger. Abandon Cors-ets. Scores of beautiful models who are displaying gowns for celebrated dressmakers do not wear corsets and make every effort to preserve the soft contour of their figures. The sty.es generally show a slight fullness on the hips in the form of oft panniers, with pleats and .accordion pleats. Flounces aro applied in such a way as to preserve the outline of the tlgur and the straight hem of the s;irt. Collars are high in many cases and if cut open aro adjusted so they may be buttoned close to the throat. All materials are soft, and where flounce are introduced they are tet en linings of chiffon to insure supPlenen. Wveteen. soft serge, velour le lalruv chiffon and plush are used with great effectiveness in Kowns and costumes. Coat llcach Hycs. Coats with afterroon costumes come just below the hips nnd follow Dick Turpin lines, by means of a girdle or gauging. Skirts aro narrowed at the feet, giving a peg top tußse?tion. Fur collars reach to the eyes. American buyers said they are having almost a battle with Parisian dressmakers over the backless e-venins: gowns offered, which the Americans are Insisting on having filled in -with lace, to the amazement of the French designers, who protest that women should be allowed to di5play their well formed backs. Black and golT raven blue, mole and cinnamon ara the prevailing tones for evening gowns. Hats for fall and winter aro both large ind small, but in all cases will frame the face. Velvet is the most popular fabric for hats., and trimmings will be of ostrich feathers and monkey fur.

ginning to pull the thread for the hemstitching. That distance measured eff carefully at each end, th business of pulling thread beginsOne cannot make hard and fast rules for the number to be drawn

Double I Ieint itching. if double hemstitching is liked, and (his is valuable in that it prevents threads from further raveling of themselves from the side of the space opposite the hem. from which

out. because of the difference of the (other horizontal threads have been

size of threads in various fabrics. If the material is of a coarse, heavythread weave, very few threads need be nulled, while, if it is of a fine, close, d licate-thread -texture, many more must be drawn. Then, of course, the individual worker mast decide whether she wants her hemstltch'.ne to be narrow or wide, and gauge the number of threads she draws accordingly. In deciding this, she must, if she will have her work as beautiful as possible, use a nice sense of proportion, considering the width of the hem and also the width and length of the scarf itself. The threads drawn, next the hem shou'l be folded, first the narrow turning to conceal the raw nice: and tb's should be wide enough to provide "v.iainst any raw edges of stray threads poking themselves out to hurvey the finished product. About r quarter of an inch, in a coarse fabric, or an eighth or a little more, in a fine material, is usually rough. When the hem is basted down carefully, its edge placed evenly along the nearer edge of the drawn space, it is time to begin the actual hemstitching. Now the runner should be taken in the left hand, being held with the wrong side of the hem toward the person sewing and with the space from which the horizontal threads have been drawn placed

remdVed, the process is exceedingly simple. One simply turns the end of the runner around and hemstitch -s the opposite side of this open, -r semi-open, space, following the same method as on the other side, except, of ourse. in this case, the stitches must be taken directly through the scarf itself, there being no hem fold on this side. This is h Very pietty finish for table runners, scarfs, sheets. pillowcases, towels, and such things, and is also being used much for lingerie and even for other elothes. Some of the new (leorgette gowns and blouses are lavishly adorned with hemstitching, which is a most charming decoration. Diagonal hemstitching is a simple variation of the same stitch; the t"rst row. or side, is stitched in the usual way but. when the opposite side is reached, half the stitches in the nrst group are taken up over ".he needle at first and fastened down; then the other half, together with the first half of the next group, are combined and fastened with one stitch, thus giving what is known as a herring-bone effect. What is known commonly a.i drawn work is really an elaboration oftentimes, of course, a very elaborate elaboration of this simple hemstitching, which is so easily done.

cities or even foreign lands, when the little boys Journey afar by train or fcteam boat there are numberless ends which they will serve admir-

Jably. Such a platform might well

be cushioned in denim or soft other

material, designed to stand f.arü wear. This will be practically appreciated by the very little ones, who like to roll around. A pretty decoration for the wall would be a wide Mother (loose frieze, or on representing a zoo. One mother made her children happy by pettingthem a large screen in four sections, which she allowed them to decorate to suit themselves. On that, they arranged zoos nnd flower gardens and various thinps, cutting their pictures out of illustrated papers and magazines. The screen was covered with a plain, dark denim, upon which it was an easy matter to pin or otherwise attach the decorations. And the screen was useful for many purposes. Then here are the cupboards. It would seem as though the playroom could not have too many of those. If the youngsters have definite places to keep their toys and playthings in. they will learn many a lesson ot neatness and orderliness while they are even very young. Then, too, it is a wise plan to have some high shelves, where surplus treasures may bo stored. The child who has too many things about all of the time often does not know what to play with, and so fails to enjoy his possessions as he would if he had but a few at a time. If the room Is so arranged that It is impossible to have many cupboards, an excellent plan is to have a good-sized box for -each child, in which he is taught to put away his playthings each night; that is. what one might call the loose things. Thus, when these are picked up and disposed of and there should be order within the box as without the larger toys, such us rocking horses, tables, blackboard and such things, may be placed about the room neatly, Just as Is the regular furniture. These boxes may be had ready-made and attractively decorated. Of course, what furniture there is in the playroom should be the simplest possible, and of a kind that may easily be kept (lean. Curtains, hangings and such things should not only be washable, but should be washed often.

How to Blanch Corn on Cob

A NOVEL PLAYROOM FOR THE LONG WINTER DAYS

BRUSSELS TO HAVE . Y. W. HOSTESS HOUSE

nv florhxck nitniY. Home Economics Department, ininlue University. After removing shucks and all tho silk in canning corn, blanch enough on the cob for one or two cans in boiling water from five to fifteen minutes, the age and tenderness of corn should determine the time. Plunge it immediately in cold water, leaving it there but an instant. Cut off tops of kernals. then scrape out the milk and hearts with back of a knife. Then pack In hot. clean Jars to within one inch of the top of the Jar. (Do not pack tightly as corn swells and it is hard to thoroughly sterilize that in the center of tha Jar. If packed too tightly.) Add one-half teaspoon of salt to each Quart; fill to one-half inch of the top with boiling wattr, and put on a good rubber and top. leaving the top slightly loose. Place a falsa bottom In a processing kettle of eoilintr water, beine sure to have

the water come at least one inch j over the top of the cans. While j filling the first can. blanch material j for the second can. etc., but put the j corn in boiling water as soon after ; blanching as possible. j Sterilize in boiling water ISO min- ;

With the annual fall refurbishing and replacing of household goods, comes a scheme for making the playroom more attractive to the children. Have you ever noticed hovthe little folks love to play on the stairs or flights of steps? Somehow, such places have a singular charm for them. Two or three steps, leading up to a window, will be the most popular spot in the playroom just try it and see for youtself. And, if the tops of these steps lift up, disclosing empty spaces beneath in which toys may be kept, they will be doubly useful. .One excellent scheme of furnishing such an apartment is to build a platform all the way around the room, making the corners into practically square places. Such a platform, raised eight or ten or twelve inrhes from the floor, will be much enjoyed and those square corners will be decidedlv popular. They may be used as rooms, when the little girls wart to play i.ouse. or for

A Y. W. C. A. Hostess houo will be opened in Krüssels next fall for

American. English and Uelgian ! utes (three hours) then remove! women residents, according to a c--!rans. tighten covers and test for! recently received from a Y. w-J ten kage. if necessary, replace rub- : C. A- eecrotary. I h.r nnd tons and reprocess fifteen i

minues and re-season. Cool quickly as possible without danger of breakage.

M.idamoiselle Damontmort. president of French Foyers, according to the same cable, has given her own Normandy chateau near Rouen, as a general center for socall conferences. Tho center will be similar to that at Asilerrr. California, at d tho Y. W. C. A. will help to ipport the work. The chateau, which i surrounded by a beautiful park, will house twenty-five people It has a !arge library of French and Knciish books, and the bedrooms are richly furnished in styles of different periods. Madame Pernard, who will direct the conference center, has arranged to have practice work done with the oclal organizations of five villages and two Industrial towns, nearby.

BETTER FOR YOU to pay us a small amount to lake care of your suit, than to pay $.0 for a new one. Ladles' and C.ents' garments altered, cleaned, pressed, repaired or dyed. AETNA SYSTEM CLEANERS 133 Lincoln Way II Ilotfi Phones Opp Standplpe.

The Possibilities

ofWindowShades

When the week-end journr-y ends at some 1 rc cze-swept beach, t.-e bathing costume is an essentia', equipment. It mn very smartly ! .ill of black salin, from top to toe. vith emerald green stitching ucft'.y applied.

She was an interior decorator, one who had the gift of making homes homelike, as her clients said; so, of course, one would expect something

attractive and unusual in the way of

window shades in her house, though.

concerning these particular ones, ahe

modes'Jy averred that anyone could have made them. First of all, they wfre of glazed cretonne, gayly flowered, just the sort to introduce r. thought of gardens into a city house. Next, they were cut in scallops and

finished off with a stiff littlo narrow fringe, which gave them nn added air of festivity, scallops being so much more interesting for such a time and place than plain, straight

hems, their owner declares. A pimple, but judicious, system of weighing made them hang smoothly and evenly (the shot-tape that dressmakers used to use may have been employed) while gay tasselled cords.

carrying out the predominating

shAde of the flowered desigti of the cretonne, finished them off both usefully and decoratlvely. These shades were hung at long French windows, reaching from the

floor well up toward the ceiling of

an unusually lofty living room, and

opening out upon little semicircular

balconies, lined with flower boxes gay with fragrant, old-fashioned petunias in brilliant colorsThe flowers within on the shades and without, in the boxes, combined with the green tops of the trees In the square below, helped to satisfy a longing for country sights when the family felt obliged to spend summer days In town, and give the whole home quite a different aspect from that of winter days, thus enhancing Its attractiveness to family and friends.

"No More Sticky Plates"

The summer iance frock should be short, simple, rnd of not too rich material. .Shell pir:u taffeL. touched with silver cn.bro.dvry, edged with silver tissue, and lightly veiled with flesh colored silk net, is ideal.

When you scorch any article in ironing dip a cloth in diluted perox ide and nib the sccrched spot. Then iron over it and the stain will dis appear.

Xo more sticky plates and no more dishes dried on dishtowels. Th-se are two of the things for which the Y. W. C. A. training schools for home assistants is standing. The school was started in answer to the demand for home assistants em the new domestic service plan which have come into the central branch employment bureau. Within the last six months, 520 calls for home assistants have come in. and 170 have been successfully filled. "Thero should never be a sticky plate after the home assistants has finished the course," Miss Grace H. White, placement secretary, says. "The girls are taught how to Biake their own soda preparation for cleansing the ice box, the kitchen closets, etc.. and how to clean a sink and a kitchen range so that it shines. "Dishes ,ire never dried with a dishtowel, but always scalded and allowed to dry without a streak."

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Jt 7' --V-'-ifti n V i..vy i

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"Wh en you think of MUSIC you think of ELBEL BROS."

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KfTRci: cr.rD ils 3(H) nnns. Nrntgnrett Plor. H. I.. Aug. Anv man in any branch of th s-ei"-vice can get u bed and a bath for 1', ctnt? a nit;ht at th Serv ioe eluh , of the National Iu'ue for Von.an's Service here. This Serv ice clut. . ir.ee the fignlng of the armistice, has housed ever nipht K.Hb and.; cn account cf its locations, will ( probably kcp open for m ar.y month.; to come The 0ormitori-s. v. huh hive be-n r-'jded to from time b limn accomti.o Jat. ?' 0 men. Th:.'-, is i ne cf the !are.-t Sauu' tlu, in the Fr.tted States, und a recrea-i tior.nl cr.r.Tet-n i- opt rate 1 in co-t-iifrt-.on witn it. Mi. I . H. I Stoddard is ch:.ifman ot l.hule !!. nd

Ladies Wrist Watches Bracelet Watches have endeared them&elves to all womankind. No lady now feels at case without one. There is no better stock of good, reliable Writ Watches to choose from than the one we are showing. . Our experience has (hown us he best and most dependable makes. We have eliminated the others. The prices range from $16.00 up. Gruen Wrist Watches $1S.50 up.

CLAUER'S Jeweler, sih erniitlu uiul Diamond Merchants 1U5 SOIT1I MICHIGAN ST.

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The Pleasure the PIANOLA Brings NEVER say agdn, "If I could only play." You can play. With the Pianola Piano you have at your fingers' ends a repertoire such as no one of the ereat pianists possesses. Wanted SO Old Pi anos We are in constant need of used pianos (no matter how old) to supply -our used piano dept. Liberal Exchange Allowance! Come in and hear and play the Pianola

WVEffWrl

K34-00 tUCn. SOUTH' ÖErD

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The Shop That Shows the New Things First"

Wct prances Ijnp 117 South Mkblia St. Correct Apparel for Women

Announcing our showing; of

Sma

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ail

Apparel. By careful buying we have collected a splendid assortment of Fall and Winter Wearables at prices that are more reasonable than you had expected to pay. Smart Autumn Suits, models of character and distinction $39.75 to $195.00 One-Piece Dresses, smarter than ever and more favored $35.00 to $145.00

Hish Grade Skirts

Fashion's Newest Conceits for Fall and Winter.

$35.00

"5.

Continuing: Our

August Sale of Cloth and Fur Plush Coats Guaranteed Savings of 20 s It's better to do business at a slight profit than not to do business at all Therefore we and our makers join hands to make these Sales of Coats work out to vour advantage.

Charles b. Sax & Company 114 South Michigan Street We Are Keeping Selling Costs Down In spite of the big advance in merchandise we are selling dependable goods at the lowest possible prices. We do not sacrifice quality in order to quote low prices. Many articles in our store cost more today than we are selling them for. It has always been our aim and desire to keep dowr. prices and at the same time sell only reliable merchandise, the kind we can recommend.

All merchandise is marked in plain figures and one price to Everybody. Children can shop here with perfect safety.

If you wish to shop over the telephone, call Main 582 for all departments, and your order will have prompt attention.

Goods can be returned and exchanged for other merchandise, or your money will be cheerfully refunded.

Merchandise delivered to all parts of the city and Mishawaka.

Getting Good Wages?

Are You f

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Spii

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Are ou making rr.or money than uruul this yar '.' What ar- vcu

going to do with it'.' Deposit some :n a checking account to rj.-t your rurrT.t exper.se.H. Deposit some in our Sjvit. trs Department. It will he th-r multiplied by interest. wb.er. vou n--ed it.

Citizens' National Bank Citizens' Trust & Savings Bank .ir.rrr.itsox ni.vi. Near the Iot fflice.

Trading vith xdvertlsers means morefor $s cab.

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