South Bend News-Times, Volume 34, Number 252, South Bend, St. Joseph County, 9 September 1917 — Page 22

ST "VP A 1 , KKIT. V, ivrr THE SOUTH BEND NEWS-TIMEi -?2M 1 i J Devoted to Women and Their Interests

1 z

Developing the Art of-Hand Work

"The development of hand work In absolutely tn s-.tr:, for the fsaMhmer.t ''. - tri? dcnioT.'tf y," m: Mi-- !!n:i ! Ne rira.i rd. Wh" x e Auutm .H' w "tn :i ; null.'' !.i hr.d we a ; i ;if tl:'- ! :i tu "i

unlversit v utsniipr .- I thi-- -.ir. Mi? de .NfM'L'.ini'i ii.'i.'- from f-wilen. v lif-rf . sh'' -;i-, Iii re i much root e uri'lf rt.u, !ir; of the vaIijo of work ami t-p"t f.r it than .he In. f.ind .i, America. "Thi rev ha!, if rnii;ht (all it jrh, of Interest in varioic- hand craft? whi"h run are experi-nc-lr.e today U an excellent thine: for th whil country, and I believe that much Rood will com- from it," po phe told friend. "AM thi em hroiderins: and w(H'.:n; and ooi carxin;; and leather tooling, that . many worn en of today are interesting thcrnelves in. will t'ach them the value of work and thp appreciation of it. whether lh' v out and mm their Uviror or not. ne of the jrreatest assets of a country, in my opinion, is the development of a people in the knowledge and ability to do thinp. for themselves. "Many women have for a Ions time corned hand ratts. eonbierint: that they were not intellectual pursuit, and therefore not worthy of their attention, hut more on a level, perhaps, with the kindergarten activities of childnn. That attitude, I am clad to say. i chamrinir. When .hp i;iin tri it they ran l uefnl things in it. th y will take up Wfavintr. for cxaoiplo. Tlie hand aft ndd H larcor tiian ever iio.v; the problem m how to reach those who hav the leisure to take up

such work, for many who h;ive the echool room and pay attention to time are larking in t;t.te and in- hooks when such interesting thinss tefst. And. Kpeakinc of taste, it i were coinc: on out of doors. I used p really surprising how many women cn about among the people of thft

Novel Suit in Lustrous French Green

The hot artists of the country were -onnec ted with it. Thin school wa oj'Mi to all who wo;;M com', and th venu,' people hesran to take preat interest in various forms f hand raft. Hif could hardly call thi- a, revival of bind work, however, for it had i. eM he-n milly lo-t. livery jieasant woman 1 i weaving. ffr intane. Stie tai-ed her own Mux and wool, and it wa much les xpen.--l'e to use that than to lu.V t.lC thii;-:s siie n eded rt.id made. "AM over the -nun try women n o e elaborate tapestries for hinin-w. They were o, vi i t e necessary in the wooden houses, for protection against the cold blasts of air which cm. in throuch the (racks between the heavy planks of which they were built. Moreover, thfse hangings were not only useful, hut extremely decorative. In Sweden, people have alwas heliee(! In tnakin useful thinprs heautiful as well. In tnot hou-e. m;ny of these tapestry hanuins were woven, hut not all w re used at the same times; there were always some particularly beau

tiful ones which were cherished carefully and only hroiiRht out on j festal occasions. They found the inspiration for their designs all' ahout them. For instance, they saw I the tulips growing in their gardens; : it was quite necessary to work them' into their Japestries. There was less talk about beauty In the earlier days hut perhaps nioi of it went into the , art of the people. : "I remember so well the nhrep shearings in my childhood. I lived '. in the south of .Sweden, in the covin- i

try. and it was hard to sit in the

f - vlkt' " iJiiiiilu1 v i x uiifr

x-' - : " -. TV- .

Tiu-;xrif tsiiKR.v. Trench treen with up HRftin but it adds silver to Its 1 untre hp if it would say, "J don't have to he Invisible ml you wouldn't like It if I were!" A bhhIi above h corselet jilrdle Ih the only Interruption to the complete Hlmpllclty of u graceful stilt. And to Klve It dash and aplomh. he'nold the knowing and dartntr liat of velvet ahove mllndy'H 1 m - pudently pretty fftce.

have excellent tate in dress, but a most atrocious lick of it in interior deiorat'on, n the appointments of the!r homes. The more (,f such, work that women it, the Tnited State. take up. the more they will help

village, watching them spin and card he wool. When my mother had more wool- than she wanted, she used to take It to the big store In the itv and exchange it for linen and other thins?, all readv made.

develop the meat international art; Later on. weaving became quite of America. I a fashionable occupation and seem"The Indian art is, of course, the ra Yo form a part of the education only rea', national art of America; . of almost every young girl. Freell iithrr is a bb-ndini: f the art of quentlv there would be three difTerall nations. The Indian de-sign, j em kinds of looms set up in the however. are so distinctly Indian houe, one for tapestry weave, one that they are harder to use than j for tine linen for tahle use and such pom? others; we grow tired of such j thintts. and a big flat loom for other distinctiveness. It takes a preat deal; things. or artistic ability to use it rightly; studied wewvlng at that governthe art of the eastern countries is , rnent-approved school in Stockholm: much more easily appropriated and: later on. I took lessons in wood blendtd. I carvinc and leather tooling. The "Hand .rafts have always t.een l svedish government cooperated

understood and respected in SweuVn. (with certain of the hand craft so-

I suppose that ls natural in a small country, where people do not Ret money too , :isil . and do not feel that they an go o it and huv eerythini: that they want. Some time ago. about '2 r years it wa. n society in Stockholm, known a- 'Friends of the Handicraft, felt that the ancient arts of the country were being neglected and. as they disapproved of

th-

vet about to

fill II I" I, III- -1 I I

piiUlne a stop to it b stabhshitiK a school to teach. n i 'bus ;.! . m c. the old pra-ant arts of w..ing and embroidering. The Swe-iish goernment showed ere m in! t est in tlie project and ;it d it w. Mvur. way

rleties ami held exhibitions eacli year, so that people from different parts of the country could come together and see what was done el?ewhere. Medals were given for excellence in work. This school, an ! the various societies devoted to the work, have done much to preserve the national art of Sweden, and so has the Historical Culture museum. "Weavinc is a practical craft for women of today." continued Miss de Neerpaard; "so many useful thing and beautiful ones can he made at home on the loom. If one does not feel inclined to Kive up the (.pare and time required for a larce loom.

i . vvv y '.;: g A. V f j : " hi1 J ä-'-.t - r; f 7 ; K ft ."I r ' ' ' -i i V . -T-j : .i $

THF (VlTiUDcJi: dill, HA YJ Tin?: sraiVA-VT trobuim. Th pirl -wTio Ik attending college In a larse city i doinfr pood fervlce In helping: o-e the servant problem, parttiTJUrrly for the professional woman who lives In a ?ma11 pnrtment. And. at the same time. he is helpinsr pay her own expense

in a much easier and pleasanter! way than she might otherwise find. ! One woman whose domestic ma-1 ehlnery runs much more smoothly j

than formerly lays it all to the intelligent and efficient help she gets from a college cirl. The apartment

t is a small one. The girl, a student i a a college in that nelprhohrhood. I comes in every morninp at 7:4 5. !

"She ts so punctual that 1 could ft my watch by her coming," said the busy artlJt who profits by her assistance. "First of all, she washes the dinner dlshev? -hich have ben l?fi from the niyht before. Then she makes the beds and eweep the rugs and mops up the hardwood floore. When the family ha finished breakfast, she washes and puts away the breakfast dishes. She always remembers to water the plants.

Some morninK5 she cleans certain ( rooms more thoroughly than others, j

tatting them turn about. Tne day after the laundress has come to do

her work, the college girl sorts out ; the clothes and puU all that require mendinj? away by themselves. She j spends but an hour In the apart- j ment each of the first five mornings, of the week, and leaves it tn order ,

every day. Then, on Saturdays, when she ha. no recitation. she comes for three hour? and does the weekly mendinjr. "People told me," said the artist. "that T could not And a college sirl who would come, hut I have never had any trouble about gcttinp one. When this sirl who is with me now went home for her midwinter holidays. I put up a notice- on the college bulletin board for another to take her place for those two weeks, and I had 5n many applicants for even such temporary work that I. was not alone for a day. I am inclined to think that it is the college girl of today, particularly the one who is studying home economics, who is going to work out satisfactorily that much discussed question of domestic sendee."

there are small ones to be set upon a table, upon which may be woven belts and bags and table runners and (tther small things. And one may work quite happily, even without knowing '20 different kinds of wea es."

WIIKX IIAXKINC A SKIKT. Slip an old skirt over the new and have some one place pins in the new goods just where the bottom of the old skirt comes. Turn up the hem where the pins are and the new skirt will be the right lencth.

Concrete floors can be made almost noiseless by covering them with heavy tar paper, attached by cement.

Trig Sporls Outfit for Blustering Fall Winds; Several Charming "Floppy" Hats of Felt

, " J .

Jfii tea ys -4 I 2tS2t I .1

Adjusting the Wisp-like Hair Nets

If "ver there was a godsend in the v.ay of dress accescoru for siiinmer use, that gift o' the gods to womankind is the hair nit. An impalpable little thing; i9 the hair net a mere wisp of almost nothingness which a breath can blowaway, but oh, the difference it makes in one'.s appearance! Its proper adjustment spells tfood jr. room in sr. tideness, attractive neatness-, with or without a hat especially without. On a breezy mornIns it keeps hair that is "all short ends" from blowing every which way; fn a damp and muggy afterroon it makes impossible the forlorn and unkempt appearance resulting; Irorn straight, limp I ex-Us that stick out at angles from the coitfure; and when one dances of an evening, it preservers the coiffure intact through hours of vigorous exercise. Nowhere Is it more valuable than on a sailboat; and with

may P'a.'Jdav.

iiet-'.-overc.I hair one

three strenuous sets of tennis and never look a bit disheveled. Not half enough women take ad-anta:-re of the r. eatr.es and trimness to be secured by means of the hail net perhaps because so many women Imd it hard tc adjust the net becomingly. ' )i course, here ever w here. the curly headed woman has the advantage. over

it is easv to ariance;

becoming fahion tn newr seems to show o(r curly hai.-. Ard point a moral to esery

ooys a net. lue ha:r

fine hair have rather tightly drawn scilps and this, of course, robs the nalr of P.uffines. Such hair will not stay in curl very easily and the wave made with an iron seems to hold better than one made by dampening and rolling the locks overnight. Hut when rishtly adjusted, the net is invaluable to women with this sort of hair, for once waxed and covered by a net, the ti esses will continue to look waved as lone as the net remains

over them, though thev may

rsuaighten out limplv the moment

it' is removed, one looks much better at the seashore with waved hair covered by a net than with limp, straight locks that hae to be continually rn.upht back under tiny hairp'ns; and the hair may be cm led and the net adjusted early in the motning and never removed ail

curly locks the net m fact, a net vrx much this should

woman who

f? -h e er so s living x h dof-sr.'t a eh;, rmirc rug. : so gra cf.il ao-; m in be o i .1 i ri g to a

thriP -it the

i-'n'T a school c;rl -iMlitK-s or'Tered v

!.e-

The ht ; felt, and tl: rse- v. i' h some i i . brotv.d- : j.r(''iii'! the

ZliOet tl.i.'s'I'e

t pc

s ! t: a d of . i i is r . o t g s- ! . i ?! Its d s ; . t , t r i-u. e i fold. .1 :.. : . l it u ,t !i -v

httlv till.

1 i.'i is one so simple.

1 1: it it va nnot help v i'hf .1 tuc f a .tlf .1 SOft qa.i'at- i

t cf ge-iius in t h Lis arrar.k'-d the

i . V t ! i 'I i th. ; 1 1 ! M

.tig re that .. s

I . I 1 K deft-

Here's a trig little comtination for wear. At rust glume it might seem French widow's bonnet, but that's lue drapirg of it. In truth it tits the head

winter sports

, a i harming

r to the demure so snugly and

st. art

an be tucked si -.j.d around the neck that

t ne

one vi!l It- tempted to wiii for many zippy, cold das in whh h to demonstrate its piquant charm and tom-

r.r.e

must aiioldtelx be cvrly, or at least have the live, fluffy tendency that curly hair pos-essos, to mak" a net becoming. In other words, the net must ' e held slightly awav from the head by the litt 'ol th' hair; w hers a net is wrapped ob? to the scalp, flattening the hair under it. the etfe.t i- harsh and trxitr-r to the prettiest fa e. Ar.d this etteet is tinaxoidable if the tresses are thin and straight wit'i a natural tendency to lie close to the head. Vety soil, line h.riir fJwaxs do-s this :nUss it kept t:utf frequent shmapocs uml made to waxe a lut by attitciai means cn then the net nra-t be .i.i justed with utmost ligntress oi the locks will flatten dc.n ur.ler its i'i'initcssiina! weight. Very me hair is one of t'te tilings tht ate admira'.de in theory hut not ;n i i.ntice. Most people who ha-

exceedingly line h.iit metitiop it with a sort of pride, a? for it. stance: ".My hair is so tine I can't do a thing with it' and .-ectetly eny the individual with more wiry loc'cs

i that stand up from the sc Jap with

an engagiiig tin tfinesi. Hut soft, lirr aair. if constant I.: 'ashed and brushed ex en mote t ontantl.x'. vxill spring out from ti e

i oots

Seal-brovx n

in a S4tft. becoming fashion alt

xelx t is employed in the scarf and ;, bout' th.e fa e. ne must take

h.a n d - i bo u ne t . and xxhen the blustering xxind interfere they r.ote tiouble w it h s'.ch hair, that is

n. d -e.ill prove that the tiny toucn of Indian blue embroid-. all Manipulating the scalp and

. ....... .i

M om I

b o;'ght er on each p ra-tic.il little p.

.i j a soft satij, lining of the same j .al blown r.niih the ends.

ke . takes its cue

Cedur. ilk tas.-c

leaping it

th- boa.-

po iilbO.

belts

b.'.se -nd pliahif st I IH tU fe ot the lutt people with

ie id.

The nowest sort of hair net is in tap shape with an edsre trgfitened ly t (loser weave and not by a thread as used to be the case. With the hr.elv woven edge stretched over thu.nl und ringtTs. the cap i slipped on the head and the edge caught here and there with inxisible hairpins. At the btck, under the knot of th coiffure a fe pleats may be taken to tighten the edge, if it is too loos-e around the iiead. i o not bring the front edge of the ne too far oxer toward forehead ami temples for here the locks must be soft p.rd fluffy, bu tuck all loose ends carefully back under th net and it necessary, put in tiny hairpins to keep them from slipping (tut again. It takes time to adjust h net properly, and the more .aiefully and daintily it is adjusted, the softer and more natural will be the inished effect The straight net which is wrapped around the head from front to tack f very hard to adjust in a soft, i ecoming manner unle.s tne 1 a4r is naturalis rl u If v and curly Si-ch a net wip almost inevitably flatten thin, artificially waxed hair and drav. it too Hoselv

against the head. If xou have the sort of hair that is hard to keep in curl in damp weather, hv a'l means patronize a marcellin? establishment nd do your own manicuring if yoa must economize somewhere else ;n order to afford the marcel process. A pood marcel wave should last a

x eek ex en in damp weather, if the hair is coveted by a net during toe da..- and protected by a net cap or a 1 it of vei'.inr while one rleers. Jut a wip of discarded face veiling will unsver and one will feel it le at night than lumpy curlers around bro v and temples. The thing is. to 1 eep the man el wave? from flattening o it against the pillow, and the hit of teilin-, hound securelv atour.d the head will preent this disaster. A mart el w av e costs from .-.' to 7." enis at a teliattle etabhs'.i men: l.nt it tnav irake man: ti'uec 7- ( -cuts worth of ditferen.-

GCEST TOWIXS IX)R nu: coL'Muv )ioi:si:. The. guert towel has indeed won its place, not as a luxury, but as a real necessity, at least in the country hoiife where many guests are constantly entertained. One gxod housekeeper vho delights in a simnle. attractive and truly comfort-

- , able home, v. hero her frlerrds always und a hearty welcome, Haydj that her sewins or rather, her!

fancy work 's just now limited to the making of gue-st toweh, dainty little things meant to be used once by the transient visitor and then tos!ed a3ide for the laundry". "fünce filet lace has become so

fashionable " she explained. "I !

have been making a lot of it not the real let, but the crccheted variety, and have been using; it on gttest towels; 1 find it easier to do than embroidery. Sometimes: 1 make length of insertion, not very wide, with a simple conventional design. Usually I need one lengih of this and p.cross one end of the towel only. 1 buy the huckabuck by the yard, and hem it myself, that, I and, is much less expensive than huine the quality that I all hemstitched to begin with. "Recently I have been crocheting little medallions, round and square, oval and diamond shaped. In these. as a defi?n, I work my initial. Then I place a. medallion where I want it.

at one end of the towel and buttonhole it on. so that it lies perfectly flat. I cut out the cloth from under it carefully and there is mv towel.

It doe-s not take lone to make inese medallions nor to buttonhole them on; I use a fdain white meiferized embroidery cotton for that. As for the hemstitching. that is quick work and it (an l varied if otie 'vishes. For example, sometime.-, i do the simplest incle hemstitching, asain the double, which is nruch prettier. I think, and sometimes the Italian, which is quite effective. "Another way of decorating thesesmali towels in by a simple design in the darnintr stitch, that is &o easy to do on huckabuck, and. if one likes, it can be done In colors, .o carry out the color sc hem of the room Initials tan be worked out .-imply. but etfeM tixely. in thH Mitch, just as they can be in crossstitch. It is really quite ui prisimr hoxv qiiicKly one ean make a variety of pretty uest tovrel. and they surely do save a treat deal of wear and teat on the larger and more ex pensix e towtl.s.

behold, the

iwd looM to the woman whose, hair is diyl

locks are nrtturallv straight ar.d strin??. The cirl whos hair is natnrallv Cutty and h? the tiniest inclination to rurl in da rip weather can gave it a beautiful water wave at no expense at all save the initial cost of a pair of rcunö shell combs such a mall girls used to wear at school ?om small girls must still war these combs ince they are to be picked up in shops, here and theie. The hair f hould I e slightly dampened and rod-id rack from th.e fo:e-

i bead, then pushed forwatd ali

around with one of the round combs. The record comb, p'.acr.j back of the firt. in.-hf? forwai.l another oft puff all a r." n,t -and

ater wave when tl

Beautiful Showing of Fall Styles at Gatelys A grand collection which will artuc the admiration of every woman who visits our store. Wc direct special attention to the tall styles in the following lines: Suits, Coats, Dresses and Furs. Bach one ot which is complete with the newest and most exclusive in style and design that the markets afford.

Suits Made up in Broadcloth, Velour, Silver-tone. Serges, in shades of Purple, Taupe. Brown and Navy $24.50 to $49.50. Coats Broadcloths, Velours. Kersey. Plush. Montinac, Pom Pom, in all favored shades $19.50 to $150.00.

New 1 X Tail ) 1 Hat vL Are Hero ryfi

Dresses

Of the most fashionable models in Silks and Serges $12.50 to $34.50.

Waists

Georgette Crepe, Mescaline and Crepe de Chine $3.98 to $6.98. Wash Waists, 24 new styles $1.00, $1.50, $2.00.

Open a Charqe Account You need not pay all in 30 days. We arrange terms t suit you. OPEN SATURDAY EVENING UNTIL 10 O'CLOCK.

liemifiei Dipnincd f tf

s. Miihi-an .

IMiiolicd C cd i t in a iMZndictl lamit .

DAVIES

HOW ABOUT

TOMORROW?

Will the house be full f -team and odors in the morning? Will the back yard be tilled with flapping undergarments on display? At the end of the day, will you be tired and worn with the worry and the work of having the washing done at home?

There's a better way and a cheaper way. "The Soft Water Laundry" will take the soiled clothes from your home and return them, a fragrant and delightful package of healthful, helpful, clean clothes. The Davies Laundry and Cleaning Co. uses no chemicals. Nothing but the purest soap and soft water. We will call for your laundry Monday and return it Wednesday, white and sweet and pure. Eliminate Blue Monday by telephoning Home 5859 or Bell 859."

Use News-Times Want Ads

V. t A.