South Bend News-Times, Volume 30, Number 215, South Bend, St. Joseph County, 31 July 1913 — Page 2

SUNDAY,'' JULY 27, 1913.

1! r U f - m t It I o w tin 4 5 -n. X; ft. ! t . X v. - ' ' - . v . " - J . ' f 1-- -

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A Cape-Like White Wrap with Black Tulle Collar. Malson Bernard. Photo Coupyright, 1913, by Reutlinger Exclusive Copyright, 1913, New York Herald Company

Arrel top, peg top, suffragette or any of the other names by which

the new skirt lines are heralded.

all have the same thing in common, seams are superfluous, and there

is more material in the skirt than in preceding seasons. It is not about the

feet. In fact, so far, excepting in a few isolated cases, all extra fullness is introduced in various ways, but more generally,

as in the skirts just named, by taking a very wide piece of material and literally encircling the figure, loosely with it. The extra material, usually removed by darts or gores, is simply pleated into the waistband in triangular shaped pleats. These are always left unstitched and often unpressed also, which gives the effect of

added dress material and thickens the figure considerably between the waist and the knee. Another skirt, not quite so new, has this extra fullness, the one wide piece of material placed about the figure, but widely crossed in front and drawn up into pleated unstitched folds to the belt. The lower edges are rounded off. When of clinging material and hanging in about the feet because of the slash the garment looks like modern style Turkish trousers. Still another style of skirt somewhat on the lines of the last one, in so far as using one width of cloth is concerned, has drapery folds on one side and is caught up and fastens below hip depth into a horizontal fold on the other side. Corsages are soft, shapeless layers of chiffon tulle and lace with the skirt material mounting up in girdle or pointed tabs. Sleeves are loose without bein exactly puffed, of no definite shape, sometimes short, sometimes long. All this is a part of the new idea in dress making. Gone are the fitting or semifitted dresses and coats, and in their place are flowing lines and drapery that affect even the attitudes of the fashionable woman. No longer is an erect pose necessary, so that the irown may fit the figure like a glove. Instead the new aesthetic poses that go well with the artistic lines. As a side issue there is an ever increasing tendency toward the fashion of the 80s, vague, perhaps, but none the less increasing as the season advances. This is a sort of modern polonaise fastened with numberless buttons down the front and with a bit of polonaise drapery. The skirt slash remains, but it is a very different one from thit of preceding seasons. It is a lapped slash, which makes it much more modest for the average

No. 2.-View of No. 1 Without Coat.

Photo copyright. 1913. by Reutliuger Exclusive Copyright, 1913, New York Herald Company

No. 3. Back View of No.4. Photo Copyright. 1913. Reutlilnger Exclusive Copyright. 1913. New York Herald Company

. 1.-The New Loose

Gown Lines Allow for .Quaint Attitudes.

New York Herald Company

of lingerie materials. These toilettes strike a very feminine note and are most becoming, especially if they are worn with the large hats "A la Reynolds," whose graceful becoming lines are one of the suc-

skirt, which mounts in a point in the back, there is a deep shaped insertlon of this

Eponge Brocaded Wrap with Standing CoMar.. Maiden Linker A. CPJ,..t ropri;ht. 1.113, by lU.ittmn-r I T v t.o,'ruht, 1013, .New York Urrald Company

only over the. corsage, has a most amusing tiny frill made from the lower edge of the triangle of chiffon. A darker gray satin fash folded about the waist drops in the back, finished by a flat tnot and loop. The skirt has the one bide drapery and pleat already mentioned. The whort blouse coat la of nattier blue satin. There are gray embroideries on both collar and cuffs. It has separated purplice front

J edgs and short basques in the back.

Chiffon sleeve ruffles fall from the cuffs. The other -three piece dress, pictured here in two views, is also of gray charmcuse, the skirt lines slightly different Here the drapery is arranged to give a little more width in the skirt The House fronts separate to reveal a net yoke and the sleeves have something in their looseness of cut of the leg of mutton sleeve of the nineteenth century.

fown, and when th dress is a! draw:

up cnoujh in fr -r.t to expose the ir.M.-p by a charming French actres are pictured the corsage of grav crepe chiffon match

and ankle the lapped f.dd above ha nil here, in Nos. 3, 4 and 5 the front and'ing. Points of lace mount over the blousck There is an odd little apron of floss em

eer separate enoua to show icy tkirt tack news of the dress and the little short 'from the wider part at the waist, and r.

or fiUen anIe. ! blouse coat. ! collar of the same lace falls very deep in

Three views of a three piece gown wornj The tkirt is of liht sruy, charmeusej the bacx. The firuy channelize of the

is used on the sleeves, and on the loose

same net. The wrap, of gray charmeuse

like the skirt, is as vague end apparently shapeless as the corsetlass figure beneath. These sleeves are so short that they disclose the net embroidery telow, and the refers open so widely as to show the front of the corsage. On the dress a very narrow girdle is placed, hardly accentuating or tightening the wide waist line bloused above.

A quaint hat goe-s with this costume. Planted well on the head, it has two ruffles of picot edged ribbon placed over and under the absurd little brim, and two big poppies are posed on the front at the top of the crown.

Elaborate Toilettes. HE present, fashions are composed of all sorts of original and unex-

Nq. 5. View of No. 4 with Quaint Short Coat, ilioM Cop.rrtehr. t013. by l-nffltr.r Inclusive Copyti-rhr. Win. Nrw York Herald ('in;.n;y

characteristics of the present sisoa is the habit of wearing elaborate toilettes every afternoon. People are beginning to Le much Ies3 stay-at-home, and since th-i society woman now frequents the r.aart tea rooms or the half-public, half-private hotel salons where the tango is danced she necessarily adopts a much smarter afternoon dress than she i-ed to wear before these reunions became the fashion. Many smart women are adopting little short "garments," such as the bolero, the "saute en barque" and the "mantelet," as they find them an excuse for utilizing in their composition all sorts of old lace and charming old-fashioned

embroidered tulles. As the summer is

pected detaiU. - No one general rule

has been laid down, with the result thatjwarm an(j gunny this idea is carried out

Parisian society functions have distinctly Jin a number of lingerie dresses, and little

coat wrap that is thrown over the figure! gained a variety and char:n. One of thetghort loose-fitting paletot are also made

cesses of the season. A very pretty novelty to be especially noted is the dress in broderia ang!aie veiled in in ou Felice de sole of the tame shade, on which is contrasted a wide of: bayardere -sash of pink or pale yellow crepe de Chine. All-over lace is also much used in the conrj-j-ition of lingerie dresao. The newest come in very fine, delicate designs, and the champagne tones are the mrt popular. A pretty trimming

for these laces is a bias band of satin . i i , . i . i . I

ia lilt; sjc tuaut:, or tiso iu t.Tju y j which harmonizes well with the rest of the toilette. The different materials now used in the ame cos?t:me, when they are mirgled successfully, produce a very original and personal toilette.