Rensselaer Semi-Weekly Republican, Volume 35, Number 123, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 9 October 1903 — SUIT YOUR OWN TASTE [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

SUIT YOUR OWN TASTE

FIELD FOR INDIVIDUAL TABTE 18 WIDE. ' r- V ‘-B-- ■■■ —A— ‘ I : Changes in Fashions Are Not Radical Despite Prophecy to That EffectBorne EußKestlons for Gowns for the ■ Coming Cold Season,

Xew York correspondence:

I EW standards in the employment of woolen dress goods are of especial interest, because of the abundant prophecies, of tate, of radical changes. But nil these simmer 6harp restriction of the rough .fabrics to outdobr and rough and ready use, and of* the smoother cloths to gowns planned for more or less of dressiness. In all else, while there are many minor changes of i style, much is left to individual taste. It all means an ex-

tension of the period, already of considerable length* in which each woman may do much as she pleases. Musts and Mustn’ts never have had a longer va-

cation. Indeed, absolutely essential features have been so few in the fashions of the past year or so, that it seems almost as if women might hope for permanent freedom from them. Probably that is too much to expect. Yet it seems hard to believe that before long all women, short and tall, plump and angular, will have to conform to the same few general rules. Just now the angular figure is favored by fashions in cloth skirts. High time it was, surely, for the styles of the tightly fitted-hips period, one of considerable length, too, were decidedly rough on women whose natural figure wasn’t at least fairly good. Now the woman to whom the tight skirt was thoroughly becoming needs look out sharp that the new scheme which especially attracts her for arranging fullness at the top of her skirt doesn’t make her look thirty pounds heavier than she really is. By the same token. Women of n bit greater plumpness will find jnneh difficulty in choosing a satisfactory model. While the pleatings, shirrings, gatherings and so on exactly suit too slender hips by adding to them what they lack, these arrangements

won’t do at all ?or full hips. The latter can be better suited by one of the many stylish models of yoked skirts. A rery deep yoke usually will be preferable. Bkirt trimming* are much varied, -both as to mediums and manner of application. Self-bandings and strappings are standard for simple get-ups, and appear, too. In more elaborate gowns, supplemented by lace, passementerie or braid. Moos dressy banding* are of velvet or

silk, these usually accompanied by handsome trimmings of other sorts. A great deal of fancy braid will be used in -trimming rough woolens, and wool lace is stylish for tbem. Smooth cloths for dress-ups are much elaborated, The goods will stand complex treatment better than will the rough stnffs, and then will carry off greater enrichment. So what with lace bandings and panellings, free employment of embroidery and .of passementerie, headings and like glitter, your broadcloth winter dress-up may be almost as elaborate as it was last winter. Sleeves are a feature that sbould have close attention. With all that has been said, you knoVv, about changes in the size or location of their puffs, very little has been accomplished toward lessening their elaborateness. Nor is their importance as a feature of the whole get-up diminished in the least; if possible, it is increased. The elbow is the stylish location for the puff, or puffs, for in many models the fullness is divided into sew" oral puffs. Then the size of the puff may be, as suits the wearer, all the way from huge to rather small. Puffs still are slashed, to show contrast in peeps of an inner tleeve. Cuffs may be of impressive size and rich ornamentation. At the shoulder the long, unbroken line still is followed by some, but epaulette finish of many forms and shoulder cape arrangements in great variety are at hand for those who want them. Lace collars, ■too, of the deepest sorts hide the shoulders in many dresses, but these are made to fit down closely and disclose the natural outline. The diversity that is the present outlook for winter is suggested by the cloth

gowns pictured here. In the initial sketch see a pearl gray broadcloth, with lavish trimming of white guipure supplemented by black velvet and a belt of white cloth. Of the three gowns sliowp together the left hand one was brown cloth, with stitched skirt yoke and pleats, the bodice topped by a cream yak lace collar. Besides this is an example of the new twopiece suits. Dark red cheviot and black ornaments were used for it. Then comes a severely plain walking suit of gray zibelline. These double breasted coats aren’t impressive for beauty, yet are finding adopters. At the right in the next picture is a mouse colored venitian, stitched and ornamented with black. The very rough surfaced materials are often trimmed with self-bandings, or with bandings of like material ofe different weave or color. Zibelline is a leader of the rough fabrics, and is in such extremely high favor that it is approaching that stage of freakish treatment that ultrastylish materials often have. The costume remaining in the concluding picture was illustrative of this in a mild degree. Its wrap was zibelline of the most hairy sort, and in striking contrast

with the gown, which waa chantilly lace. Thus the extreme* of roughness and delicacy were mated. The lace wM black, the wrap pale blue, with trimming of embroidered white broadcloth fold* and bladk silk shoulder straps. By itself the wrap would be striking, but equally original wraps are many. The tobacco loaf is said to require about twelve weeks to care. ■ » *. - # V"''

SUGGESTIONS FOR WINTER GOWNS.

STANDING, RESPECTIVELY, FOR ODDITY AND CONSISTENCY.