Rensselaer Semi-Weekly Republican, Volume 34, Number 90, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 11 July 1902 — WOOLENS ARE WORN. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WOOLENS ARE WORN.

PROMINENT FEATURE OF THIS YEAR’S DRESSING. Fashionable Combination of the'Hour la Gray and White—New Shirt Waists Are Evidence of Woman’s Triumph —Notes from Gotham. New York correspondence:

HETTY, sheer woolens, are almost as much a feature of this summer’s dressing as lightweight cloths were of last summer’s. The weaves are very delicate and are finely adapted to many of the current stylish elaborations. The stuffs most used are e t a'm in e, veiling, grenadine and canvas. Many gowns are made with clinging side-pleated skirts and loose Mouse bodices,

Gray and white constitute the fashionable combination of the hour. The gray —mist gray as it is called—is in a shade ao faint as almost to suggest discolored

White. It is made over white silk. Plain clinging skirts finished at the bottom with braid, bands of lace insertion or embroidery are also seen in sheer wool cloths. These also have the wide flare at the bottom. White sheer cloth skirts are worn with handsome lace bodices or fancy shirt waists in silk or sheer wash goods. Gowns thus composed usually are worn for the carriage or for dressy afternoon occasions. Trimming is used very freely on all thin wool goods, and embroidered effects in various colored silk flosses are much liked. Passementerie in all colorings and fancy braids are stylish. Elbow sleeves are many, but as the season advances fancy undersleeves in lace, silk or chiffon may be added to the half sleeve for early fall wear. As a host of

Stylish devices is available for these sheer woolens, the diversity among them is marked. The examples pictured here wilt hint of this. One in the initial consist-, ed of a skirt of white canvas over white silk, with wide black and white silk braid for trimming, and an all-over cream Irish crochet bodice, embellished vyith black velvet cut steel ornaments and white chiffon. Another, in the middle of the second picture, was gray chiffon veiling over white silk, with trimming of black silk soutache, Brussels lace, white mull and emerald green velvet. To the right of this last gown is a showing of the extremes to which medallion trimming has come. Mnch of value remains in the fashion, but examples of this sort bint of its passing. These particular medallions were black and whits lace, and were on a bright blue foulard that was flowered in white. Cream lace is also used freely in such trimming, the material of the gown usually being cut

away to show lining beneath., This Is white or a delicate tint. This summer's shirt waists are an_*vidence of women’s triumph. That is, they show that wearers of the simple waists of many seasons past have at last induced makers to supply shirt waists suitable for dressy use. So, with the usual abundance of simple ones, shirt waisti are more numerous and diverse than ever before. For the simple blouse nothing is prettier than white linen correctly cut and fitted. In heavy linens there is a "bmr on the shoulders and is finished down the front with silk frogs. All the heavy materials whether mercerized or not are made simply. White materials with colored polka dots make up prettily when stitched to match the dot. Very dainty thinner blouses of white and delicate tinted dimities open down the back, where they are finished with a narrow box-pleat with a group of fine tucks at either side. The front is in groups of tucks sometimes finished with insertion and medallions of lace or embroidery. The blouse that bags all around is very stylish, but needs much trimming. Absolutely plain material made in this way is far from attractive.

Thin silk, India lawn, handkerchief linen, batiste, net and lace have a high place on the list of fine shirt waist fabrics. Many waists of these stuffs are worn with silk, satin and thin wool skirts. French mulls make lovely waists either in plain color, white or flowered designs. A handsome plaid effect is shown in this material, and makes up stunningly. There are plaided dimities, too, that are pretty ip this use. A waist of one of them that showed green, rose pink and white

appears in the middle of the third illustration. White and black silk fagotting gave jts trimming. On its left is a waist of white India lawn, tucked and finished with white late insertion. Yokes appear on many waists, and are either shirred, tucked, pleated or bands of bias folds of goods held together with herringbone or feather Batching. Sleeves are larger than early in the season and are trimmed freely. Many handsome waists button down the which allows of generous trimming for the front. Lace collars are made to wear with the plain blouses of thin silk and sheer goods, and there are cuffs to match. Irish lace is much employed for this purpose. The collars extend to the shoulders and run down to the waist line in front.

Tailors have from the start taken almost _*ny goods they wanted for their summer product, and now have seized upon stripod cotton cheviot as a favorite, trimming it in assertive fashion. The cut is simple enough, but white pique or duck and silk braid or cording usually are added in some showy way. The jackets usually are made on the blazer order, are piped with white or finished with narrow cording in sonie bright shade, red generally, and have skeleton effect at the top. At the right in to-day’s third picture is one of these suits. Duck and cording in white were the trimmings. The Cheviot was rose pink and white. So«h suits wear well and are not easily mussed, so are much used in traveling. Any kind of shirt waist or blouse can be worn beneath the jackets.

Plaited boleros of black or navy silk are useful; so are tea coats in white broadcloth.

TWO GOWNS AND A COAT OF SWAGGER GRADE.

NOVELTY IN WAISTS AND TAILORING.