Rensselaer Semi-Weekly Republican, Volume 34, Number 14, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 18 October 1901 — VELVETS MUCH WORN [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

VELVETS MUCH WORN

FAVORED FOR COATS AND SEPARATE WAISTS. Great Variety of Stylish Color* in Cloth Street Suits—Zibeline a Popular Material for Out-of-Door Gowns —Dictates of Fashion. New York correspondexfce:

ICH velvets are much favored for coats and separate waists, and with velveteens and corduroys are greatly in evidence for walking suits. In the latter use corduroy and velveteen have positive merits, yet it is a question whether they ever look as trim and well made as do cloth suits. As for the velvets, ; there is no denying their stylishness. A woman with pretensions to style hardly can be with-

out a velvet suit this winter. Only the softest and most pliable velvet should be used. Cheap velvet is the worst investment any one can make, and even good velvet has a way of growing shiny, creas-

ed and spotted upon the slightest provocation. The fashion is only intended for the woman with many gowns, but it is likely that the one with few dresses will resort to it. In cloth street suits there is a greater variety of stylish colors than in velvets. Yellow ochre and full orange tints are used sparingly, and combine effectively with some of the browns, blues and greens. Turquoise, which was so conspicuous last season, is hardly seen this year, although the other shades of light

blue are much in evidence. Sapphire is a/most as popular as are the greens. Ited is also a stylish color in hats and gowns, and all the tints from vivid scarlet to a deep crimson nre worn. Then cloth has the advantage over velvet of being permitted in much greater variety of cut and finish. Four current examples aro put in the first two illustrations. First is a black broadcloth freely trimmed with black and white silk braid. Front and sleeve puffs were white mousseline de sole, and the belt was black velvet. Next, at the left in the second picture, is an emerald green wool crepe de chine, with pointed sailor collar and skirt applications of cream lace. A white chiffon rosette caught the sailor collar. Above this is a gown of dark red xibeline, with gilt braiding and a white cloth sailor collar for trimmings. Gowns of this order

have a freakish if strong indorsement They'll be likely to be called in sharply with the first severe weather, so hardly are a wise investment for economizers. The remaining gown of this picture was a green and brown novelty suiting, with tucked dark brown velvet collar. Zibeline appears on many street dresses, the weave most favored being shaggy, with a long hair resembling camel’s hair cloth, and has a beautiful satiny finish. It is used in all shades, greens, browns and reds being the most plentiful. Some gowns of it are trimmed very elaborately, while others are quite plain. Exquisite embroidery on white cloth is a frequent trimming. Then the shaggy material is often combined with a smoother cloth, particularly in separate coats for outside wear. A deal of very tricky dressmaking is being done in afternoon gowns, with a view to suggesting a look of simplicity while really resorting freely to elaborateness or to the newest fashionable wrinkles. To accomplish this successfully requires very adroit management, and the consequence is that not a few of these comparatively simple dresses are so costly as to surprise any one who does not realize their difficulties. Skillful dressmaking is essential to them, and that is something that almost always comes high. So trying are these effects to home dressmakers that they may not wisely attempt them without pretty close copying of some especial model. The dresses of today’s concluding picture are of this order, and will not be difficult to reproduce if adapting or altering is not indulged too freely. Of the upper two the lefthand one was white ladies’ cloth and

white silk embroidered in delicate green. The former gave the skirt and the tucked portion of the bodice. The yoke portion was spangled white net. The right-hand upper gown was black silk crepon, and was finished with folds and stitching. The white silk bodice was freely embroidered in gold. The left-hand model of the lower two was robin’s egg blue broadcloth, with bauds of silver passementerie, tabs of the goods and black velvet straps for finish. The remaining gown was light brown homespun, white silk dotted in pink sup*

plying odd trimming. Even when afternoon dresses are much simpler than thest pictured ones, they Will reflect, if they’re stylish, the latest decrees in colors, weaves or inconspicuous trimmings. Any old thing no longer does for afternoons. Fashion Notes. Plaited skirts will be one of the features of the new model. Large white pearl buttons appear on many of the short jackets. Blue serge is always a pretty and useful material for school frocks. One of the prettiest novelties of the season is the lace sash for afternoon and evening frocks. Hats will not be too brilliant in coloring, the browns, blues and grays will b« the predominating colors.

NEW CLOTH STREET GOWNS.

SIMPLE IN ALL BUT THE TRICKS OF MAKING.