Rensselaer Semi-Weekly Republican, Volume 20, Number 91, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 21 July 1899 — FOR ALL WEATHERS. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

FOR ALL WEATHERS.

COSTUMES IN WARDROBE OF STYLISH DRESSERS. Clothi Crash, Denim, Burlap and Colored Duck Govna Are All )n Uae— Triple-Skirted Wash Silk Dresses— Tying the Hat scars. New York correspondence:

OW weather affects E. I th e preparations that a fashionable "Oman makes for |P WT I summer has been shown <his season I with marked elearj 1 I ness. June had one j ■ week of trying heat 11 ■' and a succession of w 1 gloriously cool ' \JI days. In consery que nc e stylish \J / dressers supplied i y themselves with \v. gowns to suit all grades of weather. AH sorts of trig v crash, denim and Vi colored dnek gowns have been provided. As they are fur- ’ \ nished for wearers with whom stylish-

ness is a requisite, they are in the latest, mode. What to copyists is of equally great importance is that they are verypretty and not’ expensive. In outline and general scheme of trimming they follow

more or less closely the plainer cloth dresses. The model shown beside the initial was a fair sample. It was brown iinen with applied scrolls of white duck. Collar and belt were scarlet taffeta, and if the wearer’s purse will permit, her parasol should match this. A coat of this cut is a bit suggestive of warmth, and when it is carried out in so cool a material, a pleasant idea of originality is conveyed to start with. Whatever the weather has been, the stylish wardrobe is sure to contain at least one gown of wash silk, and it follows closely the newest styles it will be somewhat elaborate. It is in these light fabrics that skirt arrangements become most highly wrought. Here the skirt is double almost always, and if it is triple, there is no suggestion of uncomfortable weight for the wearer if only the scheme is managed cleverly. A good model for this particular skirt elaboration appears in the next cut. Its silk was lilac polka dotted with green and trimmed with white embroidered lawn in tiny ruffles. Its polonaise was modified to almost a bodice belt above the waist, and the neck showed prettily through the embroidered lawn yoke. As the summer advances the close shoulder sleeve becomes more and more the rule. A pretty addition to many summer costumes is in the tying of the hat scarf. It is of ribbon, velvet or some

gauzy material and may be tied at side or front, the bows being usually of the largest size. In this case the scarf waa white lawn; on the next hat shown there was a coquettish bow of narrow black velvet and a third example of this fancy that the artist sketched had fleecy lawn flowing away in streamers instead of being confined in a bow. The triple portion of the dress whose wearer has her face flanked with black velvet was its bodice, though this was an effect only. It was composed of an under bodice of tucked chiffon, the yoke outlined by bands of the tucked chiffon on the lower edge of which lace circles were applied. A scarf drapery of delicate gray wash silk relieved the simplicity 'of the tucked bodice. The rest was of the gray silk, a few lace disks appearing on the sleeves, with band and disk-trimming showing on the skirt. Women of fine figures and long purses ao longer go in for the princess cat ss eagerly aa they have for the past year. The reason is plain. For one thing, tail-

on and dressmakers learned the trick of making princess gowns so that woman whose ontlines were not quite perfect could wear them grandly. Then the princess polonaise made the fashion still leas exclusive. In consequence your grand dame of fine lines goes in for somewhat simple gowns that carry some bit of carefully planned elaboration. Ofie of these gowns is shown in rear view. It was sapphire blue crepe cloth, in a very delicate weave. The tucked bodice fitted absolutely, showing a pointed yoke of Irish lace. A bodice belt of the same lace applied gave zouave jacket line to the cloth and extended in a narrow point up the back and front, making itself one with the yoke in front The underskirt was perfectly plain and handsomely cut. This design might be carried out in silk crepe or in any of the many momie cloths. It is a bit too ciosi fitting for wash goods of fine enough texture to adapt itself to the graceful fall of the overdress. The costume is of especial value as suggesting simplicity that is hardly severe, and exactness of fit that is on tailormade lines. In another way the summer tailormade is kindly to a good figure, and on reasonably cool days they are elegant wear. One in blue cloth was pictured. The short scallops of its jacket did not reach the belt line at the back, but sloped prettily to below the waist in front. A graceful long apron overdress was suggested by stitching in dark green silk, waved lines to match decorating the foot of the skirt. The revers of white cloth were stitched with blue, and blue crystal buttons and a white tucked taffeta underwaist belted with green velvet to show at the back below the jacket completed a very modish “simplicity-tailor.” Such simplicity of outline need not

mean simplicity of finish, for as fine dresses are made now they do not need to be a lot of ruffles and furbelows to get a look of extreme richness. Look to the pale gray bengaline of the next sketch for proof of this. Frills of yellow embroidered ivory colored lawn formed a panel in front. From it two gracefully scrolled bands extended about the skirt, and the jacket was applied with lawn to match. With all its richness g gprl m a dark >ed burlap &C>Wn can view*,such a (Tress composedly. Burlap is a new material for dresses this season. It comes in rich colors, is cool and suits excellently gowns that do not require drapery. The dress of it that the artist chose for this illustration would have been a round waist except for the funny little tab piece in front that proved it a this-season effort. The zig-zag fastening of the jacket was simulated at the side of the skirt, which really opened there only enough to permit adjustment. As this gown hints, there may be some building out oq the shoulders if it is carefully managed, and there should be some if a woman is too sloping to carry a tailor gown well. Next this is another burlap gown, one whose tailor touch is re-enforced by a finish at the neck of mannish collar, black satin knotted scarf and a pink shirt barred with red. This gown was a butternut brown. Burlap is worth investigation, for it is

as cool as crash and as severe looking as any doth when made in tailor style. This costume showed an example of the much worn duck revers. These are adjustable, but made to suit the dress. This duck was stitched with brown, bone buttons and more brown stitching coming on the skirt. A dainty hat and fancy parasol were advised'for this suit by its maker, but greater simplicity in those accessories would be quite as tasteful. Standards in such matters are a bit mixed, however. The tailor who advised elaborate accompaniments for his simple burlap gown knew Jiis business, yet for the last of these dresses—a black opennet grenadine over green—the maker advised against fancifnlness in the rest of the outfit. Yet this may have been because the set of this dress was severe, relief coming chiefly in the embroidered lawn flounce of the skirt. White and green passementerie trimmed skirt and jacket, and tucked white mousseliae supplied a narrow vest. Copyright, 1800.

FROM THE BEST O F SUMMER STYLES.

FROM ELABORATE TO VERY SIMPLE, BUT OF SIMILA ROUTLINES.