Rensselaer Semi-Weekly Republican, Volume 19, Number 104, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 2 September 1898 — APPAREL FOR FALL [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

APPAREL FOR FALL

THE “PROPER THING” IN SKIRTS AND JACKETS. Double-Breasted Riding Habit Bodice —Bilk to Reappear in Street Gowns —Skirts Made in Two Parts—Colors May Be Contrasted or Not. Good-Bye to the Blouse. New York correspondence:.

f EFORE women re- . alize it they are r turning their attention to the simplicities of fall tailormades. They deserve attention. In them the blouse is said good-bye to. But one among many new tailor models recalls the departed blouse, and even in that the reminder is so slight that the resemblance would be overlooked by many. It was in the jaunty jacket \ of to-day’s picture. This garment fitted close all around ex-

cept the fronts, which hung free from the darts, though fitting snugly above. The line of the figure was followed closely by the waistcoat over which the fronts of the jacket opened, so there really was no blouse anywhere. The double breasted riding habit bodice appears among many variations on {he tight-fitting jacket. Rows of tiny round wood buttons dyed to match the cloth outline the shield front, and are a characteristic new notion. Heavy mohair in a bright leaf brown made up in this fashion stunningly, as you will realize on considering the sketch of it shown here. Notice the little curving down of the shield front of the bodice and the jaunty cutting away of the sides. Lap seams "with double stitching outlined the shield front of this skirt, and a row of stitching finished the hem of the skirt, stopping at the shield front. It is remarkable how

much Is added to height and grace by the suggestion of unbroken line down the front that this shield skirt effect gives. Besides this is pictured a. clever variation on the same style. It shows the double breasted jacket front, but the shield portion of the bodice is much shorter than in the other gown, starting just at the bust line, Instead of from the shoulders. A little consideration will show how much this adds to the fullness of the figure, while avoiding suggestion of height. The skirt of this gown is an excellent example of one of the variations on the two-piece skirt.

Though the upper part of the figure may be all curves and adorable plumpness. It will never do to suggest a lack of limb length. The long points of the upper portion of the skirt and the unbroken line of the front restores height. The lastof these threedoitble-hrcasted tailor gov ns was in a rich red broadcloth. As It was planned for wear without the linen collar and dicky. It will serve later In the season than the

other gowns sketched. This model In its shoulder caps adhered to a fashion to which we are sorry to say good-bye, yet in its oddly cut skirt proclaimed Itself among the latest designs. Ordinarily the upper portion of the skirt starts from the belt This gown, however, showed what may be styled an exaggerated patch let in at the back of the skirt and appearing at the sides. It seems a pity to cut up good material like that especially when the lines of the figure are sacrificed also. But you see, those shoulder pieces required something violently In fashion In tie

rest of the dress. The single rever gave a jaunty look to the bodice, but It was not in the least new, so desperate measures were excusable in the sklrf arrangement. You will note that the women of the accompanying pictures are on the short waisted order. Don’t think that It Is an exaggerative notion of the fashions artist, some of whom turn women into monstrosities so far as their figures go. The pictorial treatment is accurate portrayal of what street rigs are to be. We t hear that women are to be slender, willowy and romantic in their winter dress-ups; now, If they are expected to display figures like these In outdoor rigs, what a time there’ll be for winter

fashionables in dally changes from one thing to the other. Let’s get some satisfaction out of a model that fully answers this whimsical ruling, yet that is especially suited to a plump figure. It is in the next illustration. The suit was double breasted only below the curve of the bust, the line being most /leverly cut. Note the dip In the front of the bodice edge. This Is a feature of this season's jacket bodice that marks it as brand new, and that makes it risky to bring out and remodel a jacket bodice held on hand. This gown was made of one of the new dull surface corded silks. It seems odd to think it. but still Is going to appear in street dresses a good deal this coming season. “It sheds dust and swishes so nicely,” one of its promoters urges. The trimming of the skirt was narrow black satin ribbon laid on flat. Such a gown will serve all through the fall and be pretty for next spring, but may not appear Almost all skirts are divided into upper and lower skirt effects, as suggested but a few models show the upper skirt . slit at side, back or front to show a i pam l effect underneath. A variation on this is espet I .lly t ffective The skirt ‘ is al sides and back folded under in a j deep pleat, tlie inside of the pleat being I of eonstrastlng color ami material. The 1 result is more graceful in hang than a flat panel, and the relief of color-is the same, in the concluding picture is a skirt of this sort. It was a smooth serge, in stone gray, tlie panel being black gros grain silk, facings of collar ' ami straps matching the band. | The tailor finish displayed here was ! of tlie severe sort, but trimmed tailor suits are still abundant.,and their trimming costs a pretty penny. Were it not frr tlie expense of It, it would be safe to prophesy that plainness would ;be tiie dominant idea 4 , but there’s in tills very point of expense a mighty attraction to many women. Besides, the dressers who are thus attracted are Just toe ones who set fashions for the I rest. i I i.|.y hti IROR. The United States Is the principal toJ bacco producing country In the world.

AS FALL TAILOR GOWNS WILL BE FINISHED.

CHOSNE FOR THE SWISH OF IT.

AN EXCEPTION TO THE USUAL SKIRT DIVISION.