Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 92, Number 298, 14 December 1922 — Page 14

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Evening Gowns and Wraps Attain a Most Becom

ing Simplicity Rich Velvets, Metallic Cloths and Furs Their Medium of Expression.

HANKSGIVING presupposes a festive intermission in the ser ious business of living, a time 1 when worries and cares, what ever they may be, are laid aside, and there is Joy throughout the land. House parties are in order, and the woman who prides herself on the perfection of her gowning lays many plans, that the success of her wraps and suits and evening apparel may be a credit to her hostess and herself. "Whether the Journey be by motor or by train, there is sure to be need of a suit or wrap of the dressier sort; a different evening gown for every evening of her stay; and all the necessary hats and shoes and clever accessories that are an integral part of the mode. It is quite a3 much fun planning, as wearing them, since in the business of choosing one makes intimate acquaintance with a world of loveliness, luxury and charm. Simplicity Is The Thing. It Is undoubtedly true that the outstanding feature of every successful mode is simplicity, but it 13 equally true that at this present season it is the simplicity of sophistication, exceedingly difficult of achievement. To really know the mode of the hour one must know fabrics, since fabrics colorful, luxurious, rich and royal are the mode, though their beauty may be seriously impaired, if they're not correctly used. And under the heading of fabrics would come trimmings, which include, first of all, the pliable peltries that are to be seen everywhere, and after that, colorful embroideries of rich workmanship. Flexible Slateiials In Demand Whether the material be some supple wool velvet, a crinkly crepe or a heavily embroidered metal cloth, one's first impression is its workable quality, of prime Importance when one considers the vogue for draperies and bloused effects, two outstanding features of a varied silhouette. While chemise like lines appear occasionally, the real tendency Is to bloflSed backs and draped fronts In wraps; side . drapes, bloused coats and paneling in costume suits; and draperies, then yet more draperies, when it comes to frocks and gowns. Naturally, then, workable materials are necessary to achieve the desired end. Apparel as a whole Is individual, refined and In- ' cllned to elegance, with richness of fabrics augmented by radiance of coloring. While suits and coats incline to velvets, both silk and wool, after

The New Ribbons Are Original

CIIERE is a steadily increasing tendency to gorgeous apparel as the new season advances, and While each succeeding year has taught us interesting ways to utilize the rare ; lovelihess of lengths of ribbon, it has ;. remained for the present mode to ;, bring out their real adaptability. The ; Vogue for exotically colored, handlomely designed ribbons is one with the vogue for luxurious fabrics that ' characterizes the garments now appearing everywhere. The new skirts are longer and show flraperles. and many of the latter be(ln with a knot of some beautifully , patterned ribbon, that fashions the long, sash panels at the side and so achieves the desired uneven effect at : slhe hemline. Kibbons trim the new- , 1st blouses, making the fitted band at Ihe hipline; facing, the sleeves and turn back collar; and outlining the leckline. Hats recognize the very Ivldent distinction of ribbons and employ them as drapes, bows large and ; ttnall rosettes and Outings."" Their ', lecorative note is undoubtedly smart - md becoming. n make sashes for evening

noon and evening frocks, whether formal or Informal, are sumptuous creations that owe much their cleverness to such materials as Persian crepe or brocade, brocaded chiffon vel vet, gold and silver cloth, metallic Paisley, tinsel and metal brocaded silk. Velvet never loses its charm for either formal or Informal wear. It Is unfailingly correct and becoming, yet possessed of a certain dignified simplicity. It combines with lace, brocaded chiffon or the metal brocades, for evening gowns and wraps of great beauty. Certain Style Details Persist. There is no escape from certain things soft, flowing, slender lines; unusual sleeves; drapes and the ankle skirt, even though the latter may be only simulated by means of panels or below-the-hemline draperies. Drapery, more often than not, achieves the gown, finding varied interesting ways to the achievement. Wherever there Is trlqming, it is so chosen that it accentuates the desired effect. It may be only a unique buckle or clasp, a slender girdle or a touch of embroidery though to embroider most of the new materials would be to gild the lily! A combination of fabrics is frequently found effective, for instance silk, with a high luster, combines with metal brocade, while In contrast, light weight chiffon velvet achieves success all by itself, with the exception of a single concession in a richly wrought ornament to catch Its drapery at the hip. Fur is used extensively, appearing on suits and wraps, whether for afternoon or evening wear, and brings out the high lights In the velvets and brocades that fashion evening frocks." It Is quite new, as fashions go that is, it's a fashion renewed to have the evening gown and wrap made from the same material. Certain velvet models, following this idea, are metal studded in an Individual design, the color combination most effective. Steel on black, gray and certain shades of blue; bronze or gold on brown; Jet or black on blue; there are infinite possibilities. - The Lines That Fashion Draws. The models shown above are truly typical of the rich beauty that characterizes the fashions of the hour, for they emphasize the luxury of the fabric mode and the picturesqueness of the lines that fashion draws. Of all the soft-piled fabrics, no one Is lovelier than duvetyn. though many frocks of metal lace, brocade and the tinsel fabrics; in combination with tinsel they fashion the embroidery on suits and street frocks; they border fur coats and are the better part of the newest negligees. As to the ribbons themselves, they are so lovely THE UTILITY COAT II: O matter how many wraps, coatwraps and evening coats the complete wardrobe may possess, there is sure to be at least one practical coat of tailored lines for general allpurpose wear. It is not meant to replace any one of the more elaborate wraps, but has a use primarily its own, since it is designed for knockabout, utility wear. "Mannish" is the word that best describes it, since it is modeled oa mannish ylines and developed In mannish fabrics. So many different models have been designed that every type of figure may be fitted, the cleverness of both lines and materials maEing this possible. It Is an Ideal coat for sports and travel, as well as for street and general wear warm, comfortable, with details of fit

is? ' S? 1 c may be newer. In name, at least. The shade of gray in the pictured coat has been chosen with due consideration for the beaver that trims it. and it Is exactly the proper tone to blend with the richness of the fur. The distinctive features in the model are the unusual sleeves with their touch of embroidery and wide fur bandings; the subtle draping and paneling; and the points of embroidery on waist and panel. One notices particularly the width of the skirt, narrow, yet cut in such a way that it gives an appearance of breadth. When fell is said and done, black is the color of true smartness, and the graceful wrap of marvella cloth chose wisely when it passed, by all the gorgeous colors of a colorful season in favor of its inky hue. Or perhaps it would be fairer to say that a wrap of black caracul made the decision, for there is" really authority for either statement, since both cloth and fur are employed In almost equal quantities.Note the slender inset of the caracul from belt to hem band. It is a clever aid to the slenderness we are always seeking, as Is the sudden halting of the fur banding at the bottom of the wrap. No one is permitted to go far enough to detract from the effect of slenderness. Both shoulder and sleeve lines are becoming, and the clasp at the beltline gives Just the necessary touch of contrast to keep the wrap from being somber. Metal Fabrics Are Favorites There is no denying the vogue for sumptuous metallic cloths that are, in themselves, sufficient reason for the existence of the gorgeous evening gowns that feature their beauty. A bit old-fashioned, the bodice frgck above, with its panel front and hint of panniers in the ruffles that extend from waist to hem, and a pleasant relief from draperies. The gown itself is a rich metallic cloth in a glowing shade of peach, and the panel is made of embroidered metallic net. In a season of sleeves all sorts and conditions of sleeves an occasional and Charming that they Justify the confidence that fashion has placed in them. Brocaded, corded, embossed, hand embroidered, they are exquisitely colored and gorgeously patterned. Never-were their possibilities so great, so tempt ing, and withal so practical. OF SWAGGER LINES and finish that make it exceptionally smart. It is always the most Important wrap in tlie wardrobe of the woman who drives her own car, since it's roomy, does not crush and gives the utmost in freedom; it is wearable and durable for the school girl, who naturally, gives all her clothes hard wear; and it is smart, practical and sufficiently dressy for the woman who goes, each day to business. So great is the popularity of this particular type of coat that many houses that have hitherto made only men's garments are constantly putting out new models in new materials, only to be met with a 'demand for more of these clever "overcoats."

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sleeveless gown Is welcome. Perhaps this particular model is sleeveless because the designer could think of no distinctive type that would really fit the old time quaintness of panel, ruffles and bodice, but whatever the reason, it is Just right as it is. One would characterize this particular model as "decorative," for that Is, frankly, what It attempts. Decorative, too, but accomplishing the end by a wholly different means, is the evening gown of velvet and royal blue brocade. Such a frock is difficult to analyze, for while It seems the utmost in simplicity, it is really most precocious In its ways. Clever drapings, a hint of a blouse and a sleeve of the royal blue characterize the gown from one point of view: but from another there is merely a straight sweep of the supple velvet that comes to a point on the floor and fashions the tiny sleeves, edged with Metallic braid. Surely the designer must have sought her inspiration for this gown from two wholly different periods. HATEVER. the wind or weather whether It be sunny and decep 5c tively mild or chill and cold, with snow flurries in the air one-half of the folk in the country will be traveling North, South. East or West to meet the other half at Thanksgiving time. Railroad stations will be crowded and reservations at a premium, which leads to the very obvious conclusion that baggage rooms will be equally crowded, and busy. And who of us has not learned by sad experience how troublesome are the ways of luggage, and how much of the pleasure and success of any trip depends, not only on the convenience and roomy practicality or traveling equipment, but upon its prompt arrival. Not only the comfort of the visit itself, but the convenience and comfort of the hours in transit depend upon the way trunk, hand luggage and travel accessories meet their obligations. In choosing these aids to travel, the wardrobe trunk Is, of course, the first consideration, since its clever construction assures the unwrlnkied freshness of wraps and" gowns. It is a convenience that requires little skill In packing, since there's a place for everything all that it Is necessary to do is to see that everything is in its place. As In the trunk that is illustrated above there Is. first, a closet, that locks, provided with ample hangers for all Je necessary garments. There are separate compartments for lingerie, shoes and hats; a velvet lined box for odd trinkets and bits of costume Jewelry; a laundry bag and a place for a small

77 r s j t-$i , , -hf ,v r Hr .... jrj! - Wraps Show Graceful I.ines To top the frock3 for evening wear, there is the wrap of Persian brocade and wine colored velvet, its shawl collar fashioned of kolinsky, its broad sleeves banded with the same rich toned fur. A master hand drew the lines of this very special evening wrap. for only a master would Introduce the I wine colored velvet into the sleeves alone, recognizing the true beauty of I Ik

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A Wardrobe Trunk Or Clopet-Like lloominess Assures Creascless Gowns At The Journey's End

electric iron and an ironing board! No small part of the value of the wardrobe trunk Is its travel proof construction, which foresees and provides for the careless buffeting of baggage men, whose chief consideration is speeding trunks to .their destination, not handling them with due consideration for their contents. The wardrobe trunk Is a necessity for any extended stay. If the trip is for a single night, or maybe two, there's use for the fitted suitcase or the usual suitcase and an overnight bag, two first aids to the comfort of the traveler. Indeed, If one is apprehensive lest the trunk fail to arrive in time, there is protection In a suitcase of the type above. It will easily accommodate quite an ambitious week-end wardrobe, and might contain everything necessary for the first forty-eight of an extended visit, the " reasonable time allowance permitted a tardy trunk. The fittings of

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V 1 - ..- v fc , I'M"kolinsky on velvet and velvet on brocade. The effect Is one of slimness. accentuated by the ever present Uneven hemline. It has the hipline fastening that" Is characteristic of so many of the season s wraps, whether designed for afternoon or evening wear. Attention Should lie Given Accessories One may not forget, even in all the these cases may be either simple or elaborate the toilet articles of celluloid, French ivory, shell, gilt, silver or gold. If an overnight bag is included in the traveling equipment, there need be no fittings in the suit case, Just a tray, perhaps, and a shirred pocket inside the lid and along each end. Such a case may be of enameled cloth, walrus, cobra grain hide or one's personal choice as to leather. Some prefer the mannish kit bag of English origin, since it may be folded flat and packed away when it Is not in use. It Is a roomy affair and holds more than the average suit case, moreover, It has a certain smartness that the suit case does not possess, and smartness is Just as desirable in luggage, as it is in hats or frocks. The hat box Is a necessity, especially if one travels "light." without a trunk. These boxes come in varying sizes, large enough for four or five, or small enough for the single extra needed hat. Quite the newest Idea in the lat ter Is not a box at all. but a bag. a crushable affair of enameled cloth that protects, but does not take up the space the hat box requires, since it shapes itself quite readily to the hat. In the box type there may be pockets for veils and gloves, some even go so far as to have an extra compartment in the lid for shoes. Of the little things in luggage a volume might be written, so many useful things are being shown. Were one to possess them all, an extra trunk would be needed. Just to hold these luggage accessories. There are Jewel boxes, velvet lined, with a tray that has ring grooves and a neat compartment In It; folding traveling clocks with radium dial, to mark off the hours on the Pullman; handy flashlights; and rug rolls for the extra needed robes In the motor or on the train. And If he travels, too. there are practical mannish things to assure the

IKK " v f W fit' ' , 1' , ' f ? .ti h Jr" glory of lines and fabrics, the careful choice of accessories to compliment, the while they complement, the beauty of the models. Whether It be the detail of a correct head-dress, perfection in the way it conforms to the Individual type of the wearer; an Inviting, defensive fan; satin slippers with Jeweled buckles: fragile, cobwebby hose; the swinging earrings of the mode or a string of pearls It must I be an aid in the achievement of an artistic tout ensemble, that is, in itself, a symphony of perfect gowning. .. f

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fOR seeki refus the housewife who Is evex king novelty and chanue. yet ses to sacrifice the harmony and beauty of her house f urnlshments. there are interesting possibilities ia the new rugs that are coming to v.s from the far off foothills of the Himalayas. Goat hair is the material or which they're made, and they are much lovelier than one would a: rirs: imagine, for the hair takes dye most satisfactorily, making possible varied artistic blendings of colors. And not only is the color range wide, but the dye is fast, which makes cleaning certain. These rugs are embroidered partly by hand -in patterns that are pictorial in effect, so that they have great possibilities as wall pieres and table and divan covers, as well as for floor coverings. safe arrival of his most cherished belongings. A coat case designed to keep a suit of clothes in perfect condition has a partition in the center, on one side of which is a shirt, fold, on the other side pockets for handker- .... - - ( . J V . I 11U . .1 . . . k . O J of access, and a clever piece of equipment for'use on the train. A tie case that closes flat, with straps to hold the ties In place; a toilet case with ebony fittings, chosen with due consideration of travel needs; a collar pouch, made draw-string style, with a button pocket on the front; such things prove that the masculine half is by no means forgotten in the little conveniences designed to assure com- . fort on a Journey. And if the trip is to be made "over the road," then the motor restaurant must not be forgotten that clever affair equipped with china, silver, food boxes, thermos bottles, even salt and pepper shakers. It assures a comfortable meal along the way, when it chances there are no wayside inns to offer hospitality. Truly it may be said that one's traveling companions are assured of a hearty welcome when they're made of leather, for by their luxury and convenience they make certain a comfortable Journey. And in this business of preparation for one's own holiday trip, there ray be thoughts of the girts for the neft holiday, since a gift of luggage or travel equipment is sure to be a most satisfactory one. The Up-to-Date Convenience Of Hand Luggage Is Exemplified la This Fitted Suit Case

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