Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 92, Number 291, 7 December 1922 — Page 12

Formal Hats , Show the Radiance of Glowing Colors and the Stateliness of Black-Sweeping Ostrich Plumes Accentuate the Beauty of Picture Models iirLacel and Velvet.' fi 'OR every special gown there's a very special millinery mode. But it must be chosen with care and due deliberation, since It Is the "hat that is first noticed-r-consciously

"by the - world of women, subconsciously by the world of men and last remembered by them both, though neither be aware of It. And - since this very special mode exists, its definite purpose to complement & suit or gown mode, one must pass all the others by, no matter how lovely they may be. Any tendency to buy a model simply because It Is In itself a rarely lovely thins must be ruthlessly crushed down. Every hat Bhould answer In the affirmative two all ; Important questions '.'Are fabric, color scheme and lines becoming? Will It 6erve the suit or gown for which It Is Intended?" In no re- . spect la this rule surer than In the choice of a hat for wear with the semi-formal frock or suit for late afternoon and evening wear, or the most formal dinner or evening: gown. - Always An Established Mods ' This year, as in other years, there's

an established mode, but never have there been' more. If as many, varla Hons of it. Some of the gowns are 11m and slinky; others -are draped and paneled; while yet others are suggestive of panniers, bouffant draperies and wider skirts; so there must be, not only a Siat for every type, but several type of hats for every gown-.'. Designers have, quite Xrankly, sought new Ideas from old fashions, gleaning a ' line ffom the . Eighteenth Century and- the socially Brilliant reign of the Louis; a-conceit from American styles 'Of -The Six .ties;" a trUomlng from the -age of Queen Victoria. We Jiear much of !The Tricorne, ana .-.."The ; Gains "Borough," and something of Jtomney ;nd the Dlreetoire snapea, , . ' . Fabrics A Xure To" The' Designer - In the pliable felts, .silky velours. aatln and wool of th street hats, as well as tho' velvets, raVtal . H?cades and lacea of the strictly ormal types, (here la Incentive to; the designer, first la fashioning the hat Itsejr, later ia Its adornment, If adornment It re gulres. Indeed, there Is, now and then, a model that needs no trimming but the , exquisite daring of Its own originality In material and tinea With the crushable materials, that are adaptable to any whim. of fashion, and the soft- toned peltries metal trimmings, laces,' flowers and fancies, there Is every reason for achievement In . the millinery mode .Adapting, varying, . combining how Infinite are the . possibilities 6lnce oats large or small or In-between; off the face or drooping; with sharply defined or gracefully sweeping brim, all have their part to play in the f ashion show of .the present season. : Old Colors In Rare New Shades Color In the mode Is ever contradic tory. Just as one feels certain that bright hued models are "the thing," he realizes that after all, every other hat. at least. Is black, and not In frequently-biack unrelieved by even the suggestion of a color. The allblack hat Is never out of fashion. On fhe other hand, with each new season new colors rome to charm rare, wonderful tints of the old well-loved blues and browns: yellows, reds and browns, to touch trimmings with Oielr glory; and the new flower tones . of purple, that . range through lavendar, wisteria and orchid to a" deep, rich violet. Velvet The Moat Satisfactory Fabric It Is with the formal mode that we aro now concerned Ita fabrics, lines and trimmings. And the- formal mode has shown a predilection for velvets, metal laces and brocades, particularly the velvets. It la worth noticing this continued vogue for velvet, since few materials remain continuously In Javor for any extended period. It Is. doubtless. - because of Its workable Quality; (ono icannot get away from

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r -4 X the word this season), and Its rich ! beauty. In hats for afternoon and evening wear, fashion has a flair for feathers mostly ostrich, though one sees occasional trimming of pheasant, paradise and heckle, the latter mixed with flues of ostrich. After ostrich .' and quite , a long way after, too come such trimmings as ornaments, metallic ribbons, Paisley decorations, flowers and rich embroideries. But the outstanding . features of the for mal mode are - velvet and feathers, and ''many are the combinations that result from the partnership. While some of - the hats for afternoon and evening1 wear are small, perhaps for the good and sufficient reason -that all types may not wear the picture hat, the trend of the year is toward large hats of the sort that have a broad, drooping or . flaring brim, with something of sauclness in its .tilt. ' And if one's profile will permit, there are the, h,ats that turn abruptly oft the face, and dispose of their brim elsewhere. Style hides in the drape of tne crown, the curve of the: brim and the graceful fall of the ostrich that trims them. " Small Models For Afternoon Wear In two of the illustrations the small model ia portrayed the one a tricorne, the other a roll brim type. In the former there's-a hint of tailoring In the clean "cut lines of the brim edge, but the hint is forgotten In the graceful drop of the Persian plumes. In' the latter there's dra-ping of a softness that assures becoming lines there's even an impression of the Tam-o-Shanter crown but again there's not, for so subtle are the tolds that they could be nothing really definite. Just themselves. Again ostrich, this time changeable purple and "maroon against the purple of the velvet,. Is the trimming. Both the pictured small hats are afternoon models, designed for dress wear with a costume suit, an afternoon or early evening gown. They're simple enough to be quite all right on the street. yet eiaDorate enougn ror any out a formal function. - . v ' The Mirror; The Vanity Box;

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Si Plumes Droop Cavalierly From The Brim When all Is said and done, no "pic ture hat" Is lovelier, or, to my way of thinking, quite as lovely, as the Gainsborough. And when the color Is grey, the ' ostrich . trimming grey with tips of soft Nile green, there's nothing could be lovelier. The beauty of the pictured model Is not wholly In the coloring H and the " lines, that

CHRISTMAs

Tor Her Who Has EVeryLhin

rar ORTUNATE the' little lady who, apparently, uzus cvci y Liiiug i iui when her name is written on the Christmas shopping list. It is reason for much thought as to the form the gift to her shall take. No matter what comes to the mind, that, one feels sure, she has. Unless she makes it a hobby, and devotes quite all of her time to it, she will not keep pace with the new arrivals in glass and pottery that fill the shops. While one's pocket book is hardly elastic enough to choose such things in a haphazard way they're potential gifts, nevertheless. The choice may be only a slender bud vase of the famous Venetian glass, that shades from flame through yellow and orange to ruby red; it may be a vase of lustrous black pottery, with decoration of shining gold and the pink and white cherry blossoms of Japan; a bowl In woodsy greens, dull yellows and powdery grey; or a copy df a quaint old pharmacy jar, adorned with images of luscious fruit in cool blues, warm yellows and soft bayberry green. Tes, glass and pottery, wisely chosen, has its possibilities.. 1 $ ; . . - . : X:-

The Perfume And The Burner. Ioxurloas, Useful Aids To The Toilet

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are true to type, but in the treatment of the trimming. One Is remjnded a bit of the dashing hats of "The Three Musketeers" and bold D'Artagnan, with their round-the-crown dripping plumes of undoubted charm. Given rich materials, subtle colorings and correct lines, no type Is lovelier. The upward sweep of the brim and the downward trend of the ostrich are the real success of the hat of fawn colored velvet with Its Persian plume. The latter proves Its cleverness by stopping exactly where it should to correctly frame the face, were it a bit longer, or a bit shorter, the model would spell failure, not success. One may find that her desk or boudoir clock Is failing in its duty, and replace it with another enameled in the same delicate shade as her boudoir hangings or desk fittings. The latter suggests luxurious personal appointments for her writing table, sure to be In daily use. Granted that the usual fittings are quite emphatically all that could be desired, one may proffer a quaint little box of papier mache. French In its origin, its purpose to hold the small things, easily lost, that are in the habit of accumulating on a writing table. Or a waste basket so Important a part of the writing equipment may be lacking, then the lack could be supplied, keeping ever in mind the color scheme of its surroundings. Another pair of book rests might be useful say a pair in gilt their inspiration "The Thinker," or "Dante and Beatrice." or "The End of the Trail." Again it might be a boudoir pillow of taffeta, rosebud trimmed, for the awkward angle of a necessary chair, or a color print, cleverly chosen to fill a vacant space on the wall. Whether it come from China, Italy or Japan in shading brilliant or eubv:

Gifts

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Clever, too, Is the hat of metal lace, that changes Its mind, once it has become a medium sized, perfectly round model, adds a point on one side, and long fluffy plumes' of ostrich on the other, and changes Its entire destiny! Without the point and the plumes It would be Just an ordinary, sold-by-the-gross type of hat, in spite of the gorgeousltess of its material. Lines Contribute To Statellnesa All three of the picture hats are touched with stateliness. In spite of the flufflness of their ornamentation, and this stateliness Is partly the re sult of lines, partly the result of the dued an etching of some favorite French artist or a tiny landscape, it must be chosen, for the one who is to receive, not the one who is to give. Or, if one is not sure about the picture, it might be a decorative mirror, that will give a sense of greater space In the room itself, or open up new vistas to its occupant. Then there's the boudoir table, the night table and the little table of no special purpose at all, except for decoration they may have needs that one may fill. It might be a single piece to match the toilet set. or a powder box, mounted in silk with allover lace and edge of Val., caught down with wee ribbon roses, after the fashion of box and mirror shown. In the accompanying illustrations there are several suggestions capable of elaboration. The doll may conceal a nightlight, or a telephone: the doll itself suggests a figurine, and that, in turn, plump little figures made of bisque a roly-poly puppy, a drowsy pussy cat, a bear or a rabbit. Clever little counterfeits, all of them, their purposes decorative, only. The glass bottle may hide perfume or witch hazel; the, glass Jar conceal in its artistic depths cold cream, odd pins and trinkets or powder puffs. A volume might be written on the possibilities of perfumes, atomizers and perfume burners, for the sweetness of blossoms Is imprisoned in all sorts of clever receptacles, many of them most deceptive. Perfume comes in bottles tall and slender; short and squat; hexagonal, square and round. A clever little figurine' presents a hat box filled with fragrance as a Christ mas offering," and a Grecian urn. with classic lines, has a fragrant content, too. If she smokes, there are possibilities anyway, she powders, and you may add one more to her family of vanities, say a black box of gunmetal, to complement the black frock she is sure to have. But, assuming that there's no possible chance of adding to the artistic comfort of her toilet or her room-she might wel

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application of that same fluffy adornment. All three correctly frame the face, which is, as it should be, the end and aim of every hat, picture or otherwise. One style motif that is very apparent in them all if the danger each and every one of them seems to court that of losing a part, at least. - of its trimming, for the come another pair of the cobweb chiffon hose that fashion Insists we are to wear all winter, though she aoes grant us hose of silk and wool to wear beneath them. One is reasonably safe in such a choice, if familiar with her size and color preference. Or it might be handkerchiefs, daintily fine, with her personal monogram. . One never haa.too many, no matter how many she may have. While she may have in her possession Jewels, rich and rare, she. may not own the bit of costume Jewelry, unusual in its picturesqueness, that one may find in the perfumed depths of some little shop that is a transplanted corner of a country where the unique is a practiced art. And as a last but sweet resort, Novelties Of Glass And Silk And Bisque May Come In

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In Place of the Usual Christmas Card

$0 many times it is desirable to send something more than a card of greeting, yet nothing that couM be called a gift in the real sense of the word. So small things, with real practical worth, have been designed, with the laudable idea in mind that even the'smallest token the one that Is only a trifle may be genuinely useful out of all proportion to Its size and costThere is certainly more real pleasure in a pair of window stops quaintly carved into gay little rabbits, owls or pussies; a decorated enamel knocker for one's den or boudoir or a shopping list of enameled cloth, artistically designed, than there ever could be In the cleverest greeting card, whose ultimate end la the waste basket. A decorative

'to. plumes peVslst In drooping from th seemingly helpless brim. Sad to say this droop is not always becoming, si its adoption should be carefully con' sidered in relation to one's height, th shape of the face, the slope of thi shoulder and the neckline, for al have something to do with its becom Ingness. there's the gift of flowers. Her favorite may be an unknown quantity but what of that? - Any flower of an season is sufficient, reason for iti sending. No lovelier way of sayini "Merry Christmas" can be found, foi even a single blossom will be a contribution to her holiday brightness and cheer. To Prove That Practical necessities Clever Guise wooden salad fork and spoon might carry greetings to a one-time hostess; slender shoe trees of painted wood might greet the college girl; or 1 kitchen slate, in- a gaily painted frame of wood, might say "Merrj Christmas" to a systematic house' wife. - ... - ;- Or such a gift might take the form of a handkerchief, unusual In It motif or design, enclosed In one of the clever envelopes ready prepared for mailing; a slender Ivory lettei opener, with a Japanese lucky dog

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on 11s penaant ribbon; or a framed I motto or decorated parchment copj I of a favorite poem or quotation. Th I truly friendly greeting Is not mwW for a' single day or season hut . If

every day. of every season, throng!. out the whole long year. .