Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 92, Number 266, 8 November 1922 — Page 10

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New and Accepted Modes Pass in Review At the Annual New-York Horse Show Luxurious Gowns, Sumptuous Furs and Smart Tailored Suits and Habits Appear.

CHROUGH long montihs of earn- J est preparation, the weavers, the designers, and the masters of the world's huge - dye-ipots , make ready for the season's mode. New weaves, new colors, new designs are evolved to satisfy the fcraslstent demand for change, and li due time, these products are presented for approval. It might be supposed that these same weavers, dyers and designera would have epokqn with the tongue of a prophet, when the time comes for the presentation, but quite to the contrary! To : the average woman the question erf fashion. Is purely a personal one she accepts, rejects, approves or disapproves from her Individual point of view, weighing the beauty and practicality of a mode when it Is applied to her own carefully planned wardrobe. So the success or. failure of a season's offering of fabrics, colors, trlmmitngs, fashions, lies In the hands of thie womenfolk who buy without their approval It is doomed to failure, t' Bo we turn with interest to the dis play of suits and frocks and wraps and the trim riding apparel that either afternoon or evening at the Horse Show will bring forth. ' For we are well Into the season that always holds promise of distinctive costuming, and It Is time that the voice of authority tpeak decisively as to the manner of the mode. And whadever Is wn at the Horse Show Is not. only authorlta tlve as to correctness, but the ; very choicest In a wide selection. The Suit An American Institution Whether It Is an 4nborn sense of the fitness of things, or ability to adapt oneself to the eminently sensible mode certain it is that American women have adopted the two or three piece suit fashion to such an extent that it has been caOed our national uniform. Wholly a delightful fash Ion suits especially the models of the present season, tiie vivid, auda clous successful affair.'i that wear their trimmings with an air of smiling charm and gay distinction, as befits their confidence In their own success. They may well be (confident, for the years have taught them that they are never out of fashion,' never out of place for street or Informal wear, since with the addition of one of the picturesque overbloujes a suit may do admirably for even a near-formal oc casion. One may travel, shop or tea In a three piece, autt- she may even motor In it. quite assured of correct attire at her Journes's end. The hand-tallorel suit, that depends Flowers, In and SOMEONE has said that there ia nothing lovelier than candlelight on flowers, bus. it is safe to make the statement even broader and say that there ia nothing lovelier in the home than fiowerw--candlellght or no. And no medium of expression Is more sincere than the speech of blossoms, whether it be th)e ones that grow in the early spring? those that bloom In glass-roofed conservatories, when the snow is deep ffutslde; or the deep blue and purple posies of the mellow Indian summer. . Each season bring Its wealth of new and friendljr blossoms to fill our houses, take our ; messages, give good cheer to the weap-y shut-in. For they carry every sort, of greeting sympathetic friendly -In the sweetest sort of way, and smile for us In their simple loveliness, wtien we would find It hard to smile.

for its success on its lines and workmanship, continues a favorite. It has, as a rule, a long line coat, deftly tail

ored pockets, notch collar and a sllnV belt It is the stock in trade of the strictly tailored woman. Suits of vel vet and the so-called "wool velvets fashion the costume suits that show bloused, elongated waists, draperies, wide sleeves, the uneven hemline and the most elaborate trimmings of fur and embroidery. The vogue for embroidery continues, though many of the elaborate designs are carried out in self-coloring. When embroideries are not used, and sometimes when they are. fur trims the soft richness of the fabric. Indeed, furs follow the deep pile fabrics as the night the day. But there are furs and fursl And almost without exception the pliable skins are the choice of the designer when It comes to a suitable trim. That makes nutria, mole, squirrel, caracul and beaver the natural choice, with occasional collars, cuffings and bandings of Persian lamb and broadtail. About each model there's the elegance of simplicity, trimming effects that are odd and unusual without seeming bizarre, and an effect of buoyancy suggestive of the subtle charm of youth. Strict Tailoring Distinguishes Riding Togs The woman who rides is certain of one thing, when it comes to her appareling she must appear at her best in the saddle. And every garment will be adeptly tailored, so that it will be not only comfortable and swagger, but cleverly faultless. And fashion, recognizing this certainty, meets her little more than half way In her quest for the most becoming and most correct habit for her pur pose. The choice of a fabric is a per sonal affair, but there is no choice ai to whether its lines shall be correct or no. Velours, tweed, covert cloth, any one of the approved materials may be chosen, but it must meet every de mand of the strict clothes etiquette so rigidly set down for riding apparel. And it must be becoming to the wearer. And as may be noted In the pic tured habit, every detail of collar and tie, gloves, crop, hat and boots must be correctly conventional. Coat Models Incline To A Picturesque Originality The wrappy type of afternoon and evening coat dares many things that are most delightfully new, yet clings stubbornly to the best of what is old. Following the fashion In suits and gowns the trend is toward the drapey Out of the Home Right now It is chrysanthemum time, and no flower blooms that has more of cheer and sunshine in Its petals than these long-stemmed, hardy blossoms of the late ' fall months. Christmas will bring us the red of holly berries and the crimson of the poinsetta blossom; spring will come with its sunshiny yellows. Its smoky lavenders. Its pinks and purples; and then it will be summer and garden time where one may learn a simple, quaint philosophy from the gay out-of-doors. There's never a time when there isn't a blossom for every occasion, some flower to reflect In the home the spirit of the season. Who does not recognize their place In the scheme of things a crimson rose for a dreary day; a pot of tulips for the friend who Is ill; or a spray of yellow narcissus. Just for inspiration?

model, loose and with a slender effect in spite of both drape and looseness. Almost anything seems possible with the luxurious materials that fashion sponsors, for their exquisite softness and pliability make them most adaptable. Especially are they lovely when combined with fur, as nearly every outer garment of the season is quite sure to be. The colors follow out the general color scheme of garments of the day, with a little stress on navy, black and brown, which are really the familiar standby's of every fashion season. One never is out of fashion when wearing either one of these three dependable colors. Variations

of these three are much sought after, and the lighter, brighter more youthful shades combine beautifully with fur. It Is hardly safe to make a general rule for coats of the wrappy type, they are so likely to do anything at all. Sleeves and collars may be stressed, and Its safe to say there will be drapes and capes and occasional swinging panels. The lovely pictured model is distinguished by the uneven hemline that nearly every designer sponsors. The deep fur collar Is softly becoming, and in spite of the twocape effect and the banding of fur below the waistline, the effect Is one of sllmness. It Is typical of the season's pronounced preference for velFTER all the suits and coats 1 and gowns, the hats and furs, the separate skirts and blouses have been chosen, there comes the necessary business of adding to these garments the distinctive bits of personal ornamentation that are the decorative keystone of the costume. Dignified they are, though daring; charming, with a "certain witchery; demure, piquant, delightful, and to their many charm the average woman owes the rare delignt of achieving success in. dressing. And the newest accessories are by way of an inspiration to the woman who considers the trifles that make for perfection, and keeps just as carefully in touch with the little things of the wardrobe a3 with the proper silhouette, the latest line in hats and the newest thing in furs. So a word anent the fans, the bags, the necklaces and combs, and any other oddity that fashion fancies: While many, of these costume accessories are designed for daytime wear, the major portion of the loveliest appear in the evening, at the functions demanding formal attire. Such a misnomer "formal!" It Is such a drab little word with which to express the wonderful possibilities at one's command. Luxurious fabrics call for the sparkle of Jewels, the sheen of rich metal and the delicate tracery of fine laces and rare embroideries. To answer the call must be pure pleasure to the designer of the little things that make for clothes distinction. Fans have played their Important part In the history of nations, for historians have told us that many a weighty decision has hung on the weight of a feather In a fan. Not their function alone to woo cool breezes, for apart from their use in affairs grave, and serious, they are quite frequently the note of color in the costume that would otherwise be a failure. For a time the slogan In the realm of fans was definite "Fine feathers make fine fans." And while ostrich holds.to much of its former popularity, somstimes only a single feather an entire 'fan n itself. they

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ming. There's Deceptive Simplicity In The New Evening Gowns The frocks for evening wear were never quite so lovely. Every season we say it, only to say it all over again the season that follows. But perhaps we are truthful, at that, for when one considers the thought that is given to evening modes, beyond all that has been accomplished In the past, why shouldn't each succeeding season bring more lovely fashions . into being? There is no less, perhaps more, of dignity and simplicity in these newest models. There is a deep richness in the materials of which they're made and a brilliancy In the application of their trimmings that makes them wholly fascinating in their loveliness. Bits of sumptuous luxury, necessary to the splendid iabrics and exotic colorings make for perfection In evening attire. In the gown of brocaded velvet, pictured above, this undoubted discrimination Is shown. One gets the impression of long, slender lines, wide sleeves and exceeding length of skirt But It is really a matter of draping this effective evening gown. Did the folds fall even an Inch out of line, the entire appearance of the model are rivaled by the fans of lace and gauze that are mounted on beautifully carved, gem incrusted sticks. The fan In the picture that forms the effective background for the equally attractive comb and bag, is a dignified example of what lace, an eye to design and artistic carving may achieve, in combination. A little fan of silk may be hand painted with a quaint Pierrot or' a Columbine coquetting In its folds. Another fan, of black Chantilly lace, may be thickly studded with beads of gold, while a fairy-like fan of gauze, with a frostlike tracery of opalescent spangles, may better please the evening gown for which it's chosen. " Or the glittering color of a gown may strike a responsive chord In the iridescent 4 itt;' V f t v .v. S '.V

A Feather. To Show Which Way The Winds Of Fashion Blow! Simplicity In A Headdress

4 f 3 V VV would be changed, and its effect would be wholly lost. The touch of the master is seen in the absence of any ornamentation except the bands of fur at sleeve edge and hem. Even a narrow line of fur at the neck would have spoiled it all. . Sleeveless, the other frock ' that's pictured, yet sleeves would have been out of place. It needs nothiner but the subtle drap gleam of a fan of tulle that boasts a frivolous edge thatls little more than a ruffle. Fans have their taste in combs, and combs their taste In fans. If the picture is to be believed. The comb with the Spanish ancestry would prefer a fan that can boast the same; the feather fan with jeweled, sticks may demand the same sort of Jewels in the comb that completes the coiffure. For jewels are everywhere In the realm of accessories. They twinkle at throat. In buckles that catch the folds of draperies, on shoes, in ears and their beauty is consistent with the mode. A jeweled band may bind the hair; jeweled combs may hold the smooth coiffure n - place, or distinction may be attained through the use

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L ing, the edge of fur at the neckline, and the Introduction of a shimmering fold in the girdle to assure Its success. So the designer wisely stopped with that. When it comes to modes in evening gowns, fashion sanctions 'many.' so that it's safe to promise you a gown according to your fancy, for lines are very independent. vf tSJL JT 'Hj

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To Accentuate The Charm Or Evening Appari-1 a' Comb, A Fan And Silken Bag For; Vanities .

of a single feather, as pictured. Where will you find a woman that admits she has a bag too many, even if stie possesses one for every separate suit and gown and an extra one be" sides? There ia excuse enough in the bags themselves, for they were-never lovelier. They are, most of them, extremely practical, though many hide their practicality in a luxurious disguise of velvet, silk, brocade or beads, and frame their utilitarian purpose In silver; tortoise shell or ivory. Silk handbags have embroideries and filagree tops; there are tweed bags to match the suits of tweed; bead bags. In envelope, miser, pouch and draw cord styles are works of art; frothy evening bags, growing wlerd fruit in applique, strike a not of harmony with the evening gown. From the severest "tailor-mades" of tooled leather, moire silk or velvet, to the French beaded bags of exotic designs and exquisite colorings, they captivate and charm, concealing in their silken depths the fittings that render "first aid to the make-up." and ptherwlse usefully speak for themselves. "Hide your ears at least most of them but show your earrings," is ths motto," which means that the woman who looks better with her hair

' A Fashion from Another Age REMINISCENT of wide hall. Colonial staircase and the old grandfather's clockl ticking on the landi ins. is the present day vogue for j braided rugs. No covering for the

floor fits quite so well the decorative painted furniture generally In favor, especially for the nursery and sleeping room. Busy fingers have again taken up the old time occupation .of braiding the lovely ovals, squares and circles that are the modern interpretation of the floor coverings of another day. But the means employed Is quite different from the huge balls of colored strips that came out of the old scrap bag and were painstakingly sewed together turned in and braided. Instead, it is possible to find in any needlework shop attractive rug braid already prepared for sewing. It Is wholly a new a very new Innovation. The idea holds wonderful possibilities ..for .the home made Christmas gift, since the rag rugias long since been recognized as an accepted mode In floor coverings. " KK I- , 7 t'?2S V.

combed back in a severely simple way Is going to ' take, advantage of the fashion that becomes her. And novelty Jewelry, of which earrings are but a single item, is as much a part of the mods as hats. And when the mode is. slim and slinky, the Jewelry designed .for wear with It accentuates the slim effect. ..It is safe to say that some sort, of a necklace or pendant will be worn about the neck, on every possible occasion. There are ths quaintly lovely beaded chains, many of them copies of rare bits of jewelry. They may be of wood, though it's hard to distinguish It, all shapes and sizes of beads, richly carved and set; they may be Jewel colored or they may bs jade or. an excellent imitation. Mors often than not th ;notif'of the piece is Egyptian or .at - least some odd Oriental design that brings' a bit of almost barbaric splendor to the costume. There's a decided vogue for black and white; crystal, jet. onyx and pearls the means of achieving many exceedingly pleasing combinations. Plaque pendants, suspended from ribbons or silk cords, meet with ths favor off some, and yet others are loyal ti

coral, the deep dark red variety ths Is called "ox-blood." It ashlons bracelets and earrings as well as necklaces. ' .: '.

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