Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 44, Number 125, 5 April 1919 — Page 16

PAGE TWO

THE RICHMOND PALLADIUM AD SUN-TELEGRAM SATURDAY, APRIL 5, 1919.

The past few monthts have been a time of watchful waiting on the part of students of fashion. The great question -shall we have a new silhouette? has been answered a dozen different ways. Some designers say we shall, and have gone so far as to contribute sketches of the new woman of the new era. We looked and read dubiously at the longer and perceptibly smaller waist line; the full effect over the hips and the flatness in the back and in the front. This sounds very plausible, and is a hypothesis for countless digressions, except for those vertical line in the back and front of the skirt. They are very well to consider for the slender figure, but when one Just isnt vertical anywhere, the well laid plans of our dressmakers might come to grief. However, so far there Is no radical change in the figure's outline, though there is no telling where the whims of the experts may land us before the summer is

over. It is perhaps worth whole to consider that other wars have had their effect upon styles but gradually, with no sudden difference in the mode simply a slow drifting over a period of several seasons into a culmination of a new fashion. After all. does a silhouette really matter? Women have become independent along other lines, and when we stop and take a look at the varied periods we see sponsored on the smart

est dressers, it does look as if they were no longer slaves to their modiste's dictation. ' We see simultaneously on the newest and most dashing costumes any one of three styles of waist, high, low, aud the new "nearwasp" waist. We have skirts pleated, skirts short and skimpy, skirts long and slit for ease in walking. We have long, tight sleeves, flowing sleeves and short fitted sleeves. Variety is the word, yet it spells style as expressed by individuality. Woolen fabrics which are the most popular for early spring suits are duvetyn, tricotine, gabardine, light weight broadcloth and the ubiquitov. serge. Black, blue, gray, and combinations of blue and henna, black and tan, and gray and navy are seen in the popular coat dresses. Braiding is extremely popular again and is carried out in silk and wool combinations, with heavy stitching and beads. Taffeta is, of course, the silken favorite of the moment, and is used almost to the exclusion of foulard which

was such a rage last season. Satin seconds taffeta for the new afternoon frocks and quite a number of printed georgettes and chiffons are being shown for afternoon wear. Tricotine is, of course, irreproachable, but it is so frightfully expensive that it may only be whispered about or used sparingly in connection with less grand materials.

There has been a gTeat fear that our designers would not permit us to wear capes again this season. But our minds were relieved with the earliest showing, and since we have seen many variations of this most graceful and useful of wraps. They are not quite so full as those of last year; in fact they are not unlike the dolmans our grandmothers wore, pulled in at the

hem and squared off as to sleeves. Others are glorified coats, with very wide sleeves and the new loose effect about the waist which is very distinctive. Scarf collars of the material bordered at the ends with fringe are seen on some of the satin and tricolette capes. Utility coats are made in serge, silvertone, tweed and novelty fabrics. Set-in sleeves or raglan style are equally good, and on most of the motor coats we have patch pockets and wide belts. As has been proved times without number, the American woman will never give up her tailored suit, which che has always preferred but for which she in war times substituted the more practical one-piece dress and top coat. Suits for the most part made on simple lines, following a general slim idea, and trimmed with buttons or braiding. The coats vary in length.

but the two most popular styles are the two most popular styles are the ntw box jacket and the straight coat

I of finger-tip length. Some suits have ! no callars at all, and no fastenings,

merely a separate waist-coat of pique, silk or linen which is basted in and has a belt of the suit material tied across it. Others have a new wide shawl collar which forms pockets at the bottoms of the coat, and still others cling to the mannish notched collar and a slightly flaring hem. Skirts tend to becoming fullness about the hips and hug the ankles closely, giving a mere suggestion of the barrel silhouette which was in vogue a few seasons back. One very smart suit seen on the avenue was of navy blue serge with a hip length jacket which opened over a belted waist-coat blouse of cream linen crash trimmed with crocheted buttons and edged with Irish picot. The three-quarter sleeves were semi-flaring and the tight linen cuff of the blouse coming down over the wrists gave a jaunty air to the costume. The question of blouses always seconds the motion of the tailored suit.

Georgette is being made up into waists

oi Drunant colorings, ana comoining the most unheard-of materials. For instance, a peplum affair of sheerest silk georgette crepe was trimmed with flutings on the collar and sleeves of white batiste. Another model of leaf rrppn Trfntfr1 rhlffnn liar? n rfnon rnll

! collar of taffeta. These are simply sketches of what we have come to.

But by far the smartest blouses for summer wear are those of finest batiste, made entirely by hand, and trimmed with hemstitching or Inserts of Valenciennese lace. Net blouses are embellished with lace, pleating3 and insertion, even to the sleeves. These are fresh looking for the first wearing, but they do not launder satisfactorily, and unless one has an unlimited supply they are not a happy investment. Among the prettiest and most pleasing purchases one can make in the way of morning frocks are those of the nsw English prints. This quaint fabric has supplanted ginghams and percales to a large extent, and there are some unusual designs in soldat blue, heliotrope, yellow and rose which will be popular for tub dresses. The designs are small and not unlike the calicos we used to know, except that they possess an indefinable charm which cannot be duplicated. A few descriptions are given herewith of afternoon frocks, which may be of help to the girl who is clever enougti to evolve her wardrobe from leftovers combined with new materials. A narrow skirt of navy blue net ruflues is topped by a bodice of dark blue satin which has a waist-coat of lighter blue brocade, and a round collar of embroidery edged with ecru lace. Rose colored voile forms the nuc

leus of a charming dress, the skirt of

which is made with four large tucks which are hand hemstitched. The coatlike tunic is trimmed with collar and pockets of Irish lace dyed to match the voile. A clever touch is given the whole by a narrow sash of Nattier

blue ribbon which is knotted loosely at one side. Numerous are the ways in which printed chiffons and crepes are made up. Most of them depend for their trimming on the fantastic designs of tha fabric, and are made quite simply over white silk slips, with perhaps a ruffled net collar or a vest made with ribbon run casings. Others are combined with plain materials of the deeper color, which is used for collars, set-in tucks and bands on the skirt. Evening gowns, real, honest-to-good-ness ones, are coming into their glorious own again. Every imaginable color is being shown, from flaming red to shimmering black satin embroidered fn metal flowers. Often there are weird combinations which create an effect of ancient Egypt by their gorgeousness. Metal cloth continues to be quite a ufait, and It is oftimes embroidered in very large Chines or Oriental motifs. Skirts of this material have tunics of vivid hued georgette gathered into a fitted band at the hip3. This gives a cylindrical turn to the figure, and is used more for evening frocks than in daytime ones. It is an

other of the new silhouette angels, if it can be said to resemble an angle at all. It Is quite trying, not to say bizarre, and there are those for whom it will provide a happy vehicle, and those to whom it will bring disaster. Returning to materials, we are to see a lot of moire in pastel colors made up rather plainly in loose effects and oftener than not with a panel back

'terminating in a train. This attrac

tive fabric does not lend itseif to draping with as much grace as some of the soften materials, but it has a shimmer and dignity which is very charming. Gold and silver lace combined with, marines or taffeta is made up into informal party frocks. Prettiest of all, however, are the unpretentious summer dresses whose simplicity sometimes belie the price on the ticket, but for which there is no real substitute when it comes to that effect of pristine freshness which is the most delightful attribute of a woman at any time, especially when the thermomet-

er emu us. luese ureases, maue ui

embroidered batiste over a colored batiste slip, or of net with bright sashes, are shown in infinite variety.

A New England manufacturer has in his factory women making 55 a day doing piece-work at which men, before the war made J3 at the same rate of pay, and three women operators are equal to five men.

. i

Exhibit of Spring and Summer Fashions

Not only Monday and Tuesday at the Style Show, Washington Theatre, but every day in the week and every week in the month at Nusbaum's. Monday and Tuesday, however are set aside particularly for a most important display of spring and summer garments and hats, children's dresses and hats, and women's lingerie. This style show, to which you are cordially invited, will be held at the Washington Theatre, Monday and Tuesday evenings. Special announcement will be found elsewhere in this paper. After the most careful planning after a most painstaking search of the fashion market we'vfe assembled a collection of spring garments for women, misses and children and other spring merchandise that you will find utmost pleasure in viewing. This semi-annual style show has been so arranged so as to make it possible for you to view a full range of style types in the shortest possible time, combining this fashion feature with a pleasant evening's entertainment that has proven tha "Style Show" an interesting Richmond institution. This twice a season occasion will undoubtedly be taken advantage of by hosts of women who will readily agree with us that for beauty of styles assembled and f(jr complete stocks this exhibit will rival, if not surpass, our best efforts of the past.

i m am

Child's Garments in Special Feature We have arranged an unusually attractive lot of children's garments. Many of them will be on dis

play at the style show many more are on display in

the various departments of the store, such as

Girl's Skirts Middy Skirts Middies Gingham Dresses White Voile Dresses Hats

Boys' Play Suits Rompers Girl's Silk Dresses Caps Girl's Coats Girl's Capes

"Beautiful" but Faintly Describes the New Fashions in Women's Dresses

Not alone are the dress fashions beautiful, but there's an air of individuality about each and every one of them. The rich foulards, printed georgettes,

taffetas, tricolettes, jerseys, crepe de chines and the rt

sport silks combine to make this season's dresses of unusual beauty. We have an exceptionally interesting groups of dresses from

10 to $

85

I At 6XS.&H''Ii,L

B3PY

Special Showing of

LINGERIE For the women of refined taste, we have assembled an excellent assortment of silken undergarments. Only a visit to this department can reveal the beauty of these garments. You are cordially invited to inspect our line.

The Spring Waists are Wonderfully Attractive Rarely have we seen so many cleverly designed models as you will find in the new waists. The waists this spring greatly enhance the beauty of the new spring suits by their contrasting colors. Prices range in Silk Waists from.. 1.98 to $20 One of the groups of waists that is of unusual val

ue is the group of georgette waists, all colors and

sizes; priced specially for Pre-Easter

selling at . . . .

$5.95

Some Style Show Specials

Group of White Voile Waists, reduced to 79 Lot of fancy Taffeta Skirts, special for 4.05 Lot of Hats 5.00 Special showing of Marabou Scarfs 5.00 to 20.00 Lot of Silk Jersey Petticoats, special at 3.9S

Lot of Gingham Bungalow House Dresses, reduced to 1.98 Lot of New Spring Suits. 29.50 Lot of Brassieres 39 Lot of Wool Slip-Over ....2.98 Lot of Silk Taffeta Dresses, 15 Lot of Georgette Waists, reduced to 4.95 Lot of Plain White Middies, all siz-, es, reduced to 1.69

0,

The New Spring Suits Are Particularly Pleasing Fashion authorities have co-operated to a greater extent this year than ever before to have types of suits adaptable to each type of figure. The clever box suits, the new Russian blouse effects, the semi-tailored models, the strictly tailored styles make it impossible for you to fail in your selection of a suit adapted to your liking. The materials in our suits are of the best many Wooltex models are shown our styles are correct. Suits from $19.75 to $87.50

Fashion and Desirability are Combined in the New Spring Coats, Capes and Dolmans The designs of spring coats, capes and dolmans are particularly striking. "A style for every type" is also true with the top coats this season. 'We have arranged a splendid assortment of coats, capes and dolmans that are priced unusually reasonable in price ranges from $12.50 T0 $87.50