Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 39, Number 264, 16 September 1914 — Page 15

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vol: xxxix. no. 264 ffMarTr1rr, RICHMOND, IND., WEDNESDAY EVENING, SEPTEMBER 16, 1914. SINGLE COPY; 2 CENTS

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The last few years hare seen the men's style field divided into two separate classifications: one for young men and one for older men. Until a few years ago, young men's clothes were exactly the same as the older men's clothes in style, the only difference being that they were cut in smaller sizes. This idea, however, has been replaced by the two classifications and we have now a very decided difference between styles for these two ages of men. Young men's clothes for Fall will be somewhat snappier in style and livelier in pattern than those for older men, and many of them-will be made up without linings and will have taped and tailored scams to make them hold their shape, instead of the usual hair-doth and interlinings. ' Frock suits for Fall wear will practically all be of the one button variety, but those which are cut on the two button style will be so constructed that only one button need be used. As was the case with Frock suits for Spring, these coats will all be made extremely highwaisted and with full rounded lapels which will give men that so-called "chesty" appearance which is considered to be the proper figure for formal coat wear. All and all the Fall styles will be extremely more welcome to red-blooded men than any which have been created for several seasons, because they will be conservative in every stitch and seam and will not evidence any degree of socalled "freakishness." Dress clothes for Fall wear will show a number of decided innovations, and though they will be universally adopted, are really not entirely new. For instance, the fabrics in dress and dinner suits will be a fancy woven material.

instead of plain blacks some instances will also be in. Oxford gran colors. Some of the more extreme drew suits for young men will be shown witnj velvet collars on coats and velvet bound cuffs, while other models will show s satin binding all around the edges of the coat. t The white waistcoat will disappear to some extent and will be replaced by m very low cut black silk waistcoat of plwn color or a heavy corded weave. The fall styles as a whole will show a decided English tendency and while wnnkles and puckers are usually considered the indication of a poor fitting garment, we find that Fall garments will be worn so that the coats will wrinkle considerably, in front. The shoulder line and the back will of coarse be as plainly and severely tailored as ever before and by this combination the entire suit will be given a much more distinctive appear-, ance. Suits for young men will evidence this characteristic especially, and by young men is meant not only the men who are young in age but the men whoare accustomed to adopting young men s styles in their clothes whatever their age may be. The fact is, there is a growing tendency among men to adopt young men's stvles more universally and we often see' instances of a college man and his father being dressed in an almost uniform type of style. Men's overcoats for Fall wear will show a decided tendency toward the darker shades of blue and from present indications blue may even supplant gray and black shades in popularity. This will be especially true of the knee length fitted coats, which are certain to be popular for Fall wear. '

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In the last few years We have had varying types of ideas in men's clothes. Not so many years ago the broad-shoulder type was extremely popular. It was po uncommon sight to see a man whose coat was so constructed that his shoulders looked altogether too big for his body. Within a few seasons the style took a complete turn, and the broad shoulder design turned to the extreme narrow shoulder, which was popularly known as the "English style." For the Fall and Winter of 1914 we will have a style that is somewhat of a compromise between the two extreme

ideas. The shoulder will not be so narrow as to give a man an abnormally slim appearance, but' they will be of a

square type? though they will not be nearly so wide as the old style athletic shoulders.

The coats will also be very much dif-

terent trom the Spring styles. In length, you will undoubtedly remember that the

coats of the past Spring were extremely short. The coats for Fall will be a

little longer, averaging about 30J4 inches, and the new style will undoubtedly be very welcome to a majority of good dressers. For a great many years, London has been regarded as the style center of the world for men's clothes. Though there is no denying the fact that it still maintains that position, we find by analysis that the clothes for the Fall represent a decidedly German tendency. Heretofore the gorge of the lapels and its peaks have been rather high, which is a typical English creation, but Fall styles will be made with the lower gorge and lower peak and will very closely resemble those that will be worn by the better dressed men of Berlin and other metropolitan German centers. The patterns for Fall will be very much like those for Spring wear, except, of course, they will be darker in tone. The Tartan plaid which was but

moderate! popular daring the Spring

season win oecome more ana more in

vogue as the season progresses, and

when the rail season sets in, it is almost certain to be the most popular pattern which has ever been worn.

It is perhaps one of the richest de

signs that weavers have ever created, and its best examples are those in blue

and green combinations and brown and green combinations. Plain colors and special blues in rough weaves will be more popular than they ever were and will be the almost unanimous choice of men who pay attention to the niceties of correct dress. Small checks will also be very much in vogue but will be displayed in the more somber color combinations instead

of the black and white checks that were so popular during the Spring. Stripes will be very much in demand and will

be shown in a number ot ditterent pat

terns. There will be single stripes, double stripes and even triple stripes, spaced from a quarter to one inch apart

STYLES IN MEN'S OVERCOATS.

The Balmacaan styles which began

to be popular in a small way in the Fall of 1913, and became the rage in the Spring of 1914, will be the prevailing style for Fall wear. But the Balmacaan has had a great number of modifications since it first became in vogue. You will

probably remember that the early Bal

macaans were loose, shapeless, baggy

creations and looked a great deal more

like a cape than a coat. As the style became more popular there was a de

cided demand for a more severe tat

lored cut, and little by little the Balmacaan lost a great deal of its looseness

and bagginess.

The usual Raglan shoulder of the Bal- . r ft)

macaan coat win dc repiacea ior ran wear by a regular tailored shoulder a d

the military Prussian collar effect will be replaced by a velvet collar which will set very low on the shoulder. The

lapels of the Fall Balmacaan will be extremely wide and almost right triangular in shape. The rough home-spuns and tweeds which were so popular in these coats for Spring wear will be shown again for Fall wear, but they will

be made doubly serviceable by reason of the fact that most of them will be cravanetted; however, there will be a

number of Kerseys, Meltons and Vicunas which adapt themselves more

readily to the tailored effect of the Fall styles.

The double-breasted coat will also

come into vogue again, but it will be a

different double-breasted coat than the one that most of us know. In place of the coat with which men of today are

well acquainted, we will have a style which goes back nearly 30 years, and one with which our fathers are probably more familiar than we are. The double-breasted coat is not only a handsome one, but perhaps the most serviceable style ever brought out, as it is undoubtedly a type for Winter wear and warmth, because of the double fold of cloth which the idea necessitates. The double-breasted coat will be shown in two general styles; one loose fitting and with the box back, the other somewhat form fitting on the order of the paddock coat, but without any plaits. By now most men will know that reduction in 'the tariff does not greatly effect the price of clothes to the consumer. One maker explained that the woolens which he formerly imported at $1.87 is now reduced to $1.6 and that since there are but three to three and a half yards of cloth in a suit, the; saving to the consumer is only from 75c to 88c In fact, increases in tailoring cost have more than balanced up this saving in woolens, and the cost of a suit to the retailer is as great now as it was before the tariff went into effect However, the tariff has accomplished one very important thing for the American good dresser. It has placed English,. .German, Saxon and Belgium woolens on a competitive basis with American woolens and has allowed their use in a less expensive suit than heretofore.

DEFENSE OF PARIS IS HERCULEAN TASK

Should the German army succeed In actually Investing Paris, an army of at least 270,000 would be required to defend the French Capital. To man the rig of forts that defends the city rwould require 170,000 men and there would have to be a reserve army of Bt least 100,000 men to take the places pf the slain. The forts that defend Paris are said to be the most formidable fortifications in the world. Certainly they are the most costly. They have cost the French nation something more than 1300,000,000. Doubtless it is to be prepared to tnan the forts of Paris that the French War office has called to the colors every available reservist In the country. Obviously the huge French army now In the field would oppose the advancing Germans every inch of the way, fighting to the very environs of the Capital. None of these troops could be spared to work the forts, so that a fresh army is needed to defend the Capital, in the remote contingency that the Germans actually invest the city. Forta Are Skeletons. In the system of defenses about Paris and all cities protected by modern works, the forts form only the skeleton of the fortified lines. The pastioned wall which used to be reeled upon as the main defense of a City is Impossible today. A stone wall of the old type would today be reduced by modern siege guns In less 5ime than It would take to tell It. And o Burround a modern city with an unbroken circle of forts would be an economic Impossibility for the richest Ration. A Bpace of six miles, at least, has tc be left between the first ring of forts nd the city proper ,to prevent the plege guns of the enemy from coming within range of the city. Fort St. Cry In the second line of the Paris defen toes is ten miles from the outer edge pt the Capital. lorts about Paris are in a cir

J'THE HABERDASHER'S CORRECT DRESS A CHART Autumn and Winter, 1914-15

DAY,DRESS i , , OCCASION. AND WAISTCOAT TROUSERS HAT SHJ?XrAND COLLAR CRAVAT CLOVES BOOTS JEWELRY OVERCOAT OUf-rs Black - DAY WEDDING. Cutaway Striped Hllh Slk um Pearl Peart Sued Patent Pearl e, AFTERNOON CALL,, lr Wonted EJ.h Wing Ascot or Reindeer Leather Moonstone , AND MATINEE CfterfieM of DerK Grey p," I M." - V ' l"SjF RECEPTION SkSed Wh.te Ed,m Band White. " '"c.. ' Mch,-t Kid Tope I Cravat Ptn I Overcoat ... To To Match . BUSINESS. LOUNCE J- Match J""" Derby Pleated Fold Four-4n-hnd Tan Cape M Coid or AND Chesterfield Dirl.nL. or or or or or Jeweled MORNING WEAR SS25 !?' FTl'th So " Tl O-moi. Hjho7- A r auric Dark Jacket Go" Cham Norfolk To ' Mackinaw Match er u r: . t. j M MOTORING or To Jacket Tweed JS- Four-jn-hand UcedCalf GOLF, DRIVING. J"kn Match Flannel Self-Attached Stock Cape or Gold Link COUNTRY Belted or ck" Soft Soft Cuffs Coll., or CharooU Hla oHLow rM Chesterfield Knicker. for or Kerchief Kerchlof n Cold Chain Overcoat Field Sports Black or V Grey P" AFTERNOON TEA, Gy To Striped Rwu rw Pwl F . . . i rui idi-t-i Cutaway Match Coat Worsted Black Derby Pleated w r-our-ln-hand Suade ,?V'w?'d1 I CHURCH. ' or to or White or or or Dull Calf Links. Stud AND PROMENADE Chesterfield of Fancy Match 5il Fancy Fw Onceover Reindeer Laced or and Overcoat Fabric Coat Buttoned Cravat Pin Kid Tope EVEN INC DRESS . .. .. Pearl or EVENING. WEDDING. BALL, , S,"owuil White u , .. White Clace fHtm. Moomone RECEPTION - . . Single-Breasted Same High Silk &(r w White Tie or White Leather Links and Studs FORMALDINNER "unST " BroFeU FiPe Kl Platinum Bar AND THEATRE or Silk Bmni Wh.te Lapfront or Linen Wh,jeOjp, Cham White Rsbbcn J" Black Dull Calf or INFORMAL DINNER BUelcor Same Derbv Stiff or FrJ, Black Grey Suede with jeweled CLUB. STAG. ,ORl Black-Whlt. fvU3 u P'ted or Tan Cape Uced Top. Unks end Studs AT HOME DINNER Che-.d JuT itf 1 ChU Gunnel Gold LW Ovtrcvi 00 Pumpa Chain or Black Ribbon

Ceftxrte, 1914. by The Hoaen er Cam

COMPILED BY "LOVAT.

' Mutt nl to nrpradbcaa wMkauf pemuaiosv,

cle with a circumference of about sixty miles. The seventeen great fortresses which form the framewrok of this great system are said to have been erected at a cost of more than $200,000,000. To build a solid wall of such forts would cost up in the billions of dollars anu no nation is rich enough to undertake It. Much of the system of fortifications lbout Paris is secret. Dotted all about he forts are small preserves, access o which is denied to the public. These

conceal batteries. Vast lines of field works are designed for the spaces between the forts. Secret of Fighting. Under the modern theory of the defense of a city, by far the greater number of the heavy guns are fought from without the forts, not within. As the enemy naturally knows the position of permanent works, he will place his own artillery in positions where the guns of the forts can do the least harm.

While formerly all of the big guns were fought from within the fortresses, in modern warfare It is necessary to place them where their positions can he changed, as the fortunes of battie shift. For this purpose there is now about Paris a military belt line railroad which connects with all the forts and which has spurs extending to. all the places where it might be necessary to plant big guns in the event of investment by the Germans. With, such

a railroad, heavy artillery and ammu

nition may be speedily moved from one place to another. The railroad is concealed from the enemy by a system of tunnels and

sunken road-beds, where the lie of

the ground does not afford natural concealment. On the other hand the military railroad system of Paris was laid out before aircraft scouting had gained its present efficiency.

Rabbit shows axe becoming common in Germany, - . . v .

If Every Man in Richmond Really Knew , If every man in Richmond knew the unusual values in our fall line, every man in Richmond g would place his order for a fall suit with us. We do not ask you to buy we only ask you to come and see what we offer you get our prices and then if you are satisfied that you can do j better here, buy whatever you want. Drop in and meet us. We specialize in the fitting of menwho find it difficult in being perfectly fit. You men who want a touch of individuality in your clothes J you men who are tired of paying high prices to get what you want you are the men we. ask to j consider the advantages in our fall line. Suits, Overcoats $15 to $30 Emmons TaUoring Co. Corner Ninth and Main Streets.