Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 38, Number 266, 16 September 1913 — Page 14

KACE POUR

4 mm

PARIS READY WITH FALL HATS Hats remain small. Maline and velvet a midsummer combination. Dark, rich colors have the favor. Large use of ribbon promised. The new jockey cap and student cap. Turbans in helmet style. There is no indication of larger harvest of colds in the head. With hats for autumn. I'aris shapes remain restaurant and theatre gowns, how.rnall and medium, the very small hat, ever, the transparent maline crown is set slightly aslant on the head hav- ?"te in the picture and gives oppor- " ,b .J tunitv for the fetching disolav of half-

incr tne tavor among wearers wno lean toward chic and extreme modes. VVith true Parisian perversity Pans . . has takc up velvet as a millinery malerinl in the midst of summer, and fn-rW (nr tht Trnn villp-Tleaii ville fes tivities are being matched with fetchng headgear made of felt and. velvet; and already the exclusive shops in the Rue de la Taix vicinity are offering new felt shapes that signal the opening of the new season. Paris soon tires of a style that has become universal, and straw hats were worn po very early this year that an equally carlv arrival of the fall felt hat is inrvi'.able. IfoUne 21 Odd Mate of Wintry Velvet Zt. the midst of this rush for felt Itnd velvet models,- however, one observer an ever increasing use of airy rnalir.e, and there is every reason to telirve that this maline voge. will Continue strongly through the fall. Especially will the maline hat be used with formal frocks for theatre and restaurant wear, and the new maline models, instead, of showing pleatings nd pufTiuos of the cloudy black stuff over snap-is ot denser ianric, are wholly transparent. Crowns of ma line arc entirely unlined and the coif furc with its ornamental combs and ivins is visible through the hat. When the hair is golden or light in color this effect is rather attractive, though if the vogue continues into actual cold wcate.er it will probably mean a rich oim Stoip2

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.2 A' Art ' " 1 l ''tl' . ... -, revealed hair ornaments of rhinectrrttc: i n A n9flc Sfimp ii T t P 9 1. thoritative milliners are showing cap tivating modelsi with these transparent maline crowns and brims of vetThe shapes of such hats are small and close fitting, the dark velvet brim forming a becoming frame for the face while the crown of tulle fits closely over the head, defining its contour. A particularly fetching model by Carlier, in this type, has a close-fitting brim of black velvet, with a crown of shirred white tulle. Matching the hat is a neck ruff of black) and white malines. Ruff and hat were designed to accompany a trousseau gown ordered by a French bride-to-be, and the black and white head and neck wear will be very chic with the pown Gf black lansdowne, draped in clinging lines and having a great deal Gf shadowy white lace on the bodice, . . y, . High Colors m Millinery not Favored The attempt of some Paris milliners to launch vivid hues in millinery has not met with success. Black hats and black and white models have the favor, and when colors are shown in the new models for autumn, they are uutk, ricu tutors, imc prune. raisin, navy blue, deep vioiet, seal brown, taupe and wine red. Green in a deep, mossy shade promises to be very smart, and a notable model by Lewis is of moss green velvet with a pert aigrette ornament of coq in iridescent shades of green, bronze and black. For Open

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THE RICHMOND PALLADIUM AND SUN-TELE GRAM,

' - 'Zr -SJk V ft?. 1 ' Boldly Upstanding Feather Trimmings Goura, Numidie and Coq all have a prominent place in fall hat trimmings, and the freakish feature of the season promises to be the tall coq aigrette which is at this moment the craze in Paris, and which resembles nothing more closely than the stately black decoration on a hearse. Virot is showing the new student cap style with this hearse-like aigrette standing upright and reaching an extravagant height; but the eye will as readily become accustomed to the steeple feather ornament, doubtless, as it did to the enormously long, backward-sweeping feather of the spring; and long-suffering masculinity will welcome a feminine hat feather that mounts upward out of the way and does not tickle his ears and threaten his eyesight as the backslanting trimmings of this summer have done. Swan feathers are a new arrival in the trimming department, and an immense number of new ideas in quills, pompons and aigrettes is ready for fall consideration. Ribbons Never More Popular One set of people will be made ecstatic by the fall hat fashions, and they are the ribbon manufacturers, for Paris has promised ribbons with a vengeance. Yards and yards of rich ribbon will be incorporated in autumn millinery. Very soft satin, moire and taffeta ribbon will be used for big, soft bows at the side 6r back of turban shapes, and stiffer ribbons, like grosgrain and velvet, will be mad into pert loops and ends. At the Maison Royale the new jockey-cap hat has attracted a deal of attention. The puffed crown of this hat is of velvet and in front there is a little visor brim covered with taffeta ribbon. Over the visor brim is a smartly tied bow of ths taffeta ribbon with three graduated loops, the smallest loop being not more than an inch long, -the second, two inches and the third loop about four inches. At either side of the cap three ribbon loops stand outward in wing effect, Mil BwitaMi

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JrzfT 'Tw--giving the visor shape width over the ears. This hat sets down well over the head and is becoming to youthful faces. Jockey Caps the Extreme Style for Fall Women who go in for pronounced styles will seize upon the new juckeycap shape, with its low-setting crown and rakish little visor at the front. The edge of the cap settles well over the tops of the ears though of course the ears are covered by waves of hair in the prevailing fashion and the downward slanting visor hides the forehead and even the eyebrows. Only a very pretty face, or a plain face that is chic, will be able to stand this severe jockey cap style, though it is certain that many women who have no business to adopt such a hat will make spectacles of themselves under its rakish visor brim. Virot, who may always be relied upon for chic and charming hats, pronounced enough in style to please those who like individuality in millinery, yet never verging on the bold or "tough" suggestion, has brought out a graceful fall shape of velvet, set slantwise on the head to show a good deal of the hair at one side, while the other side of the face is closely shaded. This hat is small and audacious and at the back, near the left side, rises an enormously high loop of wide moire ribbon, upheld by two slender, curving quills. Roman Stripes in Favor. Roman striped sashes, neckties and hat scarves are growing in favor and are worn by children, young girls and staid matrons. With morning dresses of linen in brown and tan shades, or with a certain shade of Delf blue, these bright colored sashes are particularly pleasing. Sometimes a note of black is added to the costume, in the way of hat, buttoned patent leather boots or oxfords, or in black buttons or pip'ings on the frock, to tone down the somewhat vivid hues of the Roman striphig. T)Tlll, - ii j pipjpjiji PfM.l

Announce their

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TUESDAY, SEPT. 16, 1913.

1 to The All-Satin Hat. Harking back to a mode of some seasons ago the hat of all satin is coming in again for fall wear, and for a between season, at the end of summer and the first of fall hat, there could be nothing more adaptable and prettier, both for tailored and for dressy wear. And by the way, for her who adheres to the ever smart black and white or all black mode, the black satin hat will soon be offering numerous attractions. Again at the immediate time combinations of satin and straw are much liked. Revival of Velvet. Following satin there is a revival of velvet to whisper more of the fall fashion secrets, and one of the very earliest shown of the fall hats at a well known New York shop, was of a wide brim of black velvet, faced with white chiffon, and topped with a regulation tarn o'shanter of the velvet, against which was set a cream white rose. Still newer than velvet itself, is panne velvet, soft and lustrous in effect, which promises to work itself into millinery faor before the leaves begin to yellow. In fact the tailored hat facing as well a? the made crown will often be of panne, with the smart suggestion of the old time silk beaver. The New Palm Tree Trimming. The palm tree effect in trimming is one of the altogether new and very attractive arrangements in hat trimmings, if its popularity is not over done but made of good feathers it hardly could be. It is a natural consequence of the recent favor of ostrich fancies to replace the regulation and so long favored ostrich plumes of varied length. The "palm tree'' is an arrangement of the feather flues on the end of the stem which has been stripped and so gives the long and slender appearance. Then the flues are mounted, or bunched at the end. cut out alternatingly, or left in their natural arrangement to form a delicately waving and trembling tip, very euggestive of the graceful branch of VfOW 7 9 IfS2f5

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v a palm tree. Of course the trimming effect of the palm tree ostrich may be a matter of fancy, but 'one especially smart effect has recently been noticed, and that is the crossing of the delicate stems in the center front of a velvet shape, the ends spreading at each side, three or four tips being employed in each group. Lewis Adheres to the Louis XIV Style Season after season Lewis brings out this tip-tilted Louis XIV model, which this autumn promises to "take with more success than the shape has met with formerlybecause of the increasing popularity of bandeaued styles, and the present vogue of the hat turned up at the back. Dark, rich red is the color of this Lewis-Louis hat. The shape is covered with dark red velvet and under the brim at the back is a flat bow of soft red ribbon. The huge roses massed across the back between upturned bfrim and crown are in shades of red with glossy, dark green leaves. 2. The New Student Cap is Most Becoming While the jockey cap style demands a pretty face and a great deal of style to carry off its rakish effect, this student cap an exact copy of the headgear worn by German students in 18.10 will become almost any woman. The big, soft crown is, of course, of velvet, the favorite material for fall hat crowns it appears, and the little brim over the nose is of taffeta ribbon. Wing-like loops of the ribbon give width to the low hat at the sides, and the bow of ribbon at the front completes its graceful line. 3. The Tam O'Shanter Revived Under the new pseudonym of "student's cap," this familiar Tam o Shanter shape makes its appearance for autumn. The style is youthful and becoming to almost all faces and the big bow of ribbon across the back - 14 IS)

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. v f: s Copyright by Root tw(Ffr Aciat(ca. increases both tbe grace and the youthiulness f the model. Hunters green velvet forms the big crown, and this crown is attached to a straight brim of shirred moire ribbon in the same rich shade of green. The green moire ribbon is used for the huge bow at the Lack, also. No smarter or more pleasing model on to-day's page of advanced Paris hat styles is presented than this Tam O'Shanter hat of dark green. 4. The New Visor Shape for Autumn This jaunty hat is the craze just now in Paris, where it is worn, despite its wintry character, with sheerest frocks of net, lace and machine embroidery. The shape is so pronounced and extreme that the hat wilt be sure to be taken up by those women who adore individual and audacious effects. This model, from an authoritative Paris milliner, is of dark green velvet and bye the bye, dark green is a millinery tip for those who like to be first with coming mode. The band of moire ribbon is characteristic of the jockey cap style which this hat imitates; and the outragco'---ly tall coq aigrette is the very laUit Paris cri. 9 A Quarter-Deck Shape in Gold and Green Almost exactly like the dress parade hat of a gallant naval officer, is this feather-trimmed model by Sagct. The gold and green shades of the hat are especially rich and are indicative of the pronounced favor for grecu in fall millinery. Over an e'ongafel shape rich gold lace is laid in soft folds and the plumes are R?siin green in color. This hat was designed to match an autumn tailored costume of dark green mohair ami worsted fabric, part of the sartorial onttt of a young royal lady whose costume are celebrated throughout Europe. With the green and gold costume will be carried a gilt purse set with emeralds, and high heeled patent leather boots with green suede buttoned tops will complete the color harmony. 4 v

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