Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 37, Number 271, 18 September 1912 — Page 21
THE RICHMOND PALLADIUM AND SUN-TELEGRAM. WEDNESDAY, SEPTE3IBER 18, 1912.
PAGE NINE.
I I nSw4 ' WWPk Km I life wf I mim flSt $ II' ; Rtfte Pu : i 1 " ' ' 1 ' ' ' fkghioiv ffiTDecided He Shall WesPtJi
i
M
EN'S clothing, meaning suits
and overcoats, will return to the normal style this fall, This is practically agreed
upon by the custom trade and the ready-to-wear makers alike.
According to one of the former, au acknowledged authority in sartorial matters: "We are drawing away from the so-called English 6tyle. Clothes will be simply natural this fall, with
do frills. The style may be destribed as American, or perhaps cosmopolitan would be the better word. Clothes for men will be cut to fit, well balanced, made up in moderation; we will hare no padded shoulders, no exaggerated chest. Trousers will be cut moderately close-fitting, and of average length that is, they will reach to the heel." This etyle prevails la the output of
Worsteds, tweeds, of
the ready-to-wear houses, casslmeres, cheviots and
clearcut desicn and oft finish, win h
most pcj)ularIn the make-up of gentlemen clothes this fall and winter. Brown effects, greys and blue-greys will be most observable among good dressers during the- coming season. Chinchillas will go big. too, according to the opinion of many prominent dealers. Very few double breasted sack coats
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T7F you buy your suit here you get the sort of material that is bound to satisfy you. We have 3000 patterns of the world's best woolens from which to select. A suit or overcoat purchased here will be tailored correctly and guaranteed to fit you perfectly. Price $15, $!8f $20 and up Ready to put on and wear away Suits, 10 to 2
MEN
9
FURNI
SHINGS
Our stock is entirely new, which naturally assures you that whatever you buy here is riget up to the minute in style. In Shirts, Neckwear, Hats, etc, we can suit the most particular dresser.
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will be seen on business men. As a rule business coats will carry three buttons, single breasted, with pointed lapel, SO or 31 inches in length, according to the height of the wearer. Very Blight demand for the frock, or cutaway, is anticipated, although in suburban or rural localities, where formal dress is seldom worn, the cutaway is always proper for. semi-formal functions, and in most cases forms a becoming garment. The fall and winter Trocks carry three buttons, only one of which is supposed to be fastened, the edge of the coat rounding with a graceful curve from the centre of the chest to the bottom of the garment, which, from collar to end. Is about 35 inches in length. A popular overcoat for the coming season will be a short, belted garment, with a pleat In the back, reaching barely to the knee. In spite of the crusade made against them last year, chinchillas are coming back Into the public favor, and will be particularty noticeable in a long, double-breasted coat. "In spite of the dissatisfaction the trade has experienced in regard to soft fabrics," said the manager of a wellknown high-class ready-to-wear house, Just returned from a tour of the European fashion centres, "the public de
mands them, and they will be worn again rough, shaggy stuff, and at the end of the season you will find chinchillas very popular. I really believe that the merchant who plunges on them will be left; a great many will be worn, but there will be considerable dissatisfaction. Many manufacturers are experimenting with this kind of coat; but in my judgment there are only three or four manufacturers in the United States who can turn out a really good chinchilla. These sell from $30 up. These coats will be seen in blues, greys and olive brown. As to raglans, the same authority declared: "The raglan has almost seen its last day here. I believe it will die as quickly as it did eight or nine years ago, when It practically died overnight In fact, when in Europe the only raglans I saw were old ones, that the owners were evidently trying to wear out. I saw more In Berlin than in London, and none at all in Tarls." A comfortable garment for fall wear is a box coat, with shawl' collar and double breast ; but this is too short for winter wear. There are so many different models for sack coats that it Is difficult to describe them ; but as a rule they are cut with form-fitting
shoulders, a soft roll, no pads nor chest exaggeration. Cheviots and wools will outnumber the worsteds two to one this winter. Double breasted sacks are also coming in again, and are likely to be quite popular by the time real cold weather seta In. There seems to be a general demand throughout the country for a narrowshouldered coat; this demand did not exist last year, but is making Itself more and more apparent as the fall season advances. This undoubtedly accounts for the abandonment of the padded shoulder that sought to make Reggy and Fercy look like real athletes, dont-ye-know? While speaking of the frock coat I should have added that, while not in popular demand, with It should be worn grey striped trousers, while the vest may be of the same material as the coat, or a white one. If the black vest is worn, the deml-vest. with white edging, is proper; with this should go an ascot tie and a winged collar. Cloth-topped shoes, pearl-grey gloves and a silk hat complete this semiformal dress. There will be a big call for Xorfolks this fall, I am assured by persons who should know. This Jacket always makes a comfortable, useful and nobby outing garment, for automobiling and
practically every sort of outdoor port
As a matter of fact, manr wall-
groomed men wear them to business. Others keep one at the offlc and den It when they assume the dutie of the day. The Norfolk also makes an excellent lounging-coat to wear arovad the house. In the library, smoking or billiard room. This faU the Norfolk1 will be made principally from a cheviot in fancy patterns. Vests this fall will show a. general tendency to a high cut high eoeuffe to be visible above the lapel wfeea the coat is tattooed. '.'Vests are Bade for the coming season without collars, and will carry fire and six butt cms. Opinions seem to differ as to the demand for fancy vests. A few beasts which make a specialty of this kind of garment are making vigorous efforts to push them, and report that they are meeting with great success In this line; but the trade in general seams to have little use for them. The "peg-top" effect has vanished entirely from the trousers made for the fall and winter season. While not exactly tight, they are made more snug, more close-fitting, than for a long time past. The "cuff" at the bottom of the legs will he noticeable only by Its absence, snd the trousers will reach to the heels.
THE CORRECT DRESS CHART
. - D A Y P R E S S ' . OCCASION WAISTCOAT TKOUSZM HAT SHTT AXO COLLAK OA VAT " CL0VZ3 - BOOTS " JgWtiSY OVERCOAT currs - , . -. -. - - Stiff fff hay wrnmNc. ' wIJa , wSj r74 nJESL-- r. f uJZd A F7J J? S?-U 3 CWtrficld Cct. el D.rk Crrf f ,,th Whit. 5 man " ' - Gthmr ' t Umk I AND MATIN tE or with or .Bread Felt itb Tabbed I Owe 0r to an .4 0k . itmml - ; ' RECEPTION Pair tot WbUe Edgi-f to Match Ceat ,' Jiaod " Cut Wiag to Metca Match CntoM rKrfTotw V 1 Owe oat. Attacked Glove Otwi N J , Stijj (jt Jacket m p TWV Veld rim Mm all . , - - 1 BUSINESS. W.1Iri Coat w v fitted OeU- LJ CaH w Jh-SLa fi r.-AJ?-Dw- WalWnsCoat Jckrt Mate , Colored or or 1 1 X- aeaSi? MORNING WEAK ..,. or with Ta r Hii iiM r feaa om. of HT' Jet Soft Cadi Wm TV .Caee, fiash or Lo i CmU , urereoat fabric Attached , f : v . . V t " v -- v ' 4 r Norfolk ' To Fold . 'IS-tl ' ' v. . ? I Matcfc FlanMl Woolen Ftoaad Outms rul Infcait . Caiaull Vo V tw," . I V VOJOSnfCa, JtcVet ; u ortT F" f TVe I ! Celt , ' CeM SR& Br! Mate. Cae SJk Scir.Attee.ed Stock Te . , i DRIVING. Fur , rlrVt or wit Cellar er Cpe Bautt l . ! COUNTRY wChVSeriMd , KntH Soft Soft C.S, i -itef Either X Vmmjmi a Orereoot "I Krrebarf - rr f Wen h Uaard ' ' ' " : - ' " " 3 "'''''- Crey v Stiff Feteaw V - C' ;ToVate. Striped ' f Rlvh SHk or Ptaatod Fold Fier la kid S-f. fcaether w j2l5a"t AFTTRVnoif TEA, r-.uM Coat Wonted ' with White or Faacr Caonai J or , T1 CHUUCH s0. er of er to . Brood FcM ' with or or or w ' Celf A WD PROMENADE Finey Fabrie Mateh ' Bead Coe Reaaoeerl B.oa Ootk f r-r I &t?,t Cmt Attached Wtaf ftuw er Kd Tae nm V ' . r n EVENING DRESS ! . ' SwanowteS Whit Giecd Fcert er Cape Wite Saaae - Wiah SOk Stiff Fobe. . wh Srif Fatewt Laerher Moeawaeaa) tVEVnSG. wrnprWQ, P'o Sirtfe Breajttd Material with FiooeorUiMti SaatTVTahVed WVte Tie I Berhe Penaeid Oecb p L he ." Bk.?CUJ??- F" wL Co.' BreIF!t VTk U Wha? ef Fial. er I er WhH. er Tee. eaad FORMAL DINNER er Pin wnh plata Band with v- er f mvrtA PSewi RroVer Patrat Seea AND THEATRE OetteWMd ' or OiHer Scaua-- Opera , Caffa ' Upfront Vr Uarm Wb Oh Leefhrr raaa FktaVwai Bai Orreoet Unce at Theatre Attached ' for Theatre f- Oil. .A 1 1 " i ,i ' i ket Week wv4 M r , t.' " rXFPBMAt PrCNER. Blarfc or OTford'BleckSd White Mawrf' 3aek LM SaLSr Cheale .lice. Tope -Ji iTsit CXl'lt. STAG. CbesterftcM Lieee aa Jacket Xorhy , er fSaei er er . er ttmmm eeat AT HOME DINNER er er wth rteiai or wire OTarVewi WWhi " -t tie deer j C xiel ; SrWa i Fur SjTk Oeter Sean Soft , C Wlnf Silk Tie y Fmf Cotd So Orerceet Smt' Breefted Attached " Ckmmu
CeT"'rr. Itie. ty Tut Hnirumtt Cowrae
Quaint Customs In Abyssinia. Quaint customs prevail in parts of Abyssinia. When a father is getting on in years the son bids him climb into a tree and jump down from the branches. If the old man staggers on landing the son spears him on the spot his usefulness is orer. One tribe had a custom of sewing chance visitors up in green hides and leaving them to be -killed by the contraction of the skins. With another the only orthodox way of dealing with strangers was to tie them in a bundle and roll them over a precipice. London Mail. -
Arcnoisnop ef CantarBary. The archbishop of Canterbury Js referred to as -his grace," and he writes himself archbishop, etc "divina proridentia." whereas other prelates use the phrase "dirina permlssione." Be U the first peer In the realm. At coronations . he places the crown on the bead of the sovereign, and the king and queen are his domestic parishioners. The bishop of London is his provincial dean, the bishop of Winchester his subdean. the bishop of Lincoln bis chancellor and the bishop of Rochester his chaplain. -
Origin of Oxtail Soup. -During the reign of terror in Paris in 1793 many of the nobility were reduced to starvation and beggary. The abattoirs sent their hides fresh to the tanneries without removing the tails, and in cleaning them the tails were thrown away. One of the noble beggars asked for a tall, and it was willingly given to him. He took it to his lodging and made (what is now famous) the first dish of oxtail soup. He told others of his good luck, and they annoyed the tanners so much that a price was out bsob them. .
Whwn Men War BuwtU.
"Bustles were ridiculous.1
antiquary. "Do you remember tk bustle of 1SS5? It shot straight et from the waist, a broad seat oa whicl honestly, an adult could 'have sal Tea, bustles were ridiculous, but more ridiculous than the touraasw a Francis IL The tournurea ware woe by men. They were bustles frost il stead of rear ones. Tea, la the ttoi of Francis XL portliness was rn4iei ed stately, and men tied on trranate or false stomachs, la order to achlr an air of dignity.-
