Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 37, Number 271, 18 September 1912 — Page 18

PAttE SIX.

THE RICHMOND PALLADIUM AXD SUJf-TELEGR A3I. WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 18. 1912.

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Ctopyrtsfit 1912 by X. J. Robinson.

kN a sunny, frosty winter day,

among tbe throngs of shoipers and the modish uiatinfio crowds on tbe boulevards

It will be very difficult this

season to find a single woman wbo has not a Wt of fur added to ber costume Tor ornamentation or warmth. It may be but a twist of soft, becoming fur about ber bat, or a muff, or a smart little neck-piece, but you may be sure be will wear it, whether he be a tiny tot of fire or a dowager of fifty. Furs nave been steadily changing mate for some time, and now, with our well-heated houses and the resulting tendency of women to dress lightly throughout the winter, they are retarded as a necessity and no longer a luxury. This great rogue for furs has brought out most desirable styles and raluee in the medium-priced, pieces, so that the problem of furs is no longer the appalling matter of a few years ago. Ju the parade of fashions along the boulevards this winter one will notice that fox skins seem to predominate. In their various treatments, gray, red pointed and cross fox. Mink, beaver, squirrel, lynx and caracul will be seen also, developed in many novel ways. Ermine, white coney and moleskin among tbe more expensive furs will be greatly favored. The variety In the style of the neck pieces Is unlimited, so that a woman may find her special requirements satisfied not only as to color and texture but as to lines and perfect suitability

By Rene Mansfield.

to ber figure. For the woman with the long, perhaps scrawny neck there are the new cape effects which have most becoming standing collars, on the general lines of the storm collar. This style is usuaUy made up in the clos furs etich as seal, Persian lamb or moleskin. The cape is small and sometimes has the points finished with tassels or fringe. Very chic was a piece of this description made from Persian lamb which had been laid in flat pleats about the neck. A twist of satin ribbon finished with a buckle covered the Joining of the cape and collar. Soft satin bows, crochet buttons and passe m enteric are being used extensively as a trimming on many sets, while the more expensive models show attractive borders, and trimmings accomplished by reversing furs to give striped or blocked effects. The note struck by the clever black and white or "magpie" combinations in the past season's modes has been sustained by the furriers in attractive conceits in the black furs Inlaid with white fur. There is little choice, in point of modishness, between the small neckpiece and the large picturesque stole effects, both will be extremely popular. The Colonial scarf which is most becoming to almost any figure reaches just to the knees and may be trimmed with narrow bands of contrasting furs or have bands of the same fur applied in reverse fashion to give the same effect Animal effects continue to be well liked. One of the prettiest of these styles which a striking brunette

expects to wear this winter with a white broadcloth suit has tbe rounded cape effect In the back, while the long end of the stole in front is finished with tails and paws, tbe short end with two big paws, and the whole closes at the side with a great fur head. Muffs have decreased not an iota In size nor luxuriance. The barrel, the half-barrel, square and pillow shapes, with their lining brought out beyond the edges and puffed or shirred, and their long cord handles, continue to be In great demand. A new Idea which will appeal to any woman who complains of the Inconvenience of carrying a muff and one of the large purses now so fashionable, is tbe pillow muff in which the shopping bag is arranged In the front, beneath a fancy overlapping pocket which snaps down onto the muff well down toward the lower part of the top. The season's fur coats show many lngenuious adaptations of the present style tendencies. The full length coats for street wear in seal, caracul, Persian lamb, moleskin and o'possum, and the fur-lined cloth coats all show the big collars and revers, wide cuffs, side closing, and even the slightly fulled back gathered into a half belt. While the three-quarter length coats, many In novel styles of cutaway design, are offered in the more expensive garments, the 52 to 54-inch styles will find the widest favor. One of these long coats, in seal, united all tbe latest features of the season's dictates. It was closed at one side with three fancy

buttons, set so close together as almost to overlap (most of the buttons are put on in this way). The collar, which was large and rounded at the back, and the long revers, were of the seal : the full length sleeves were finished by

i large cuffs and buttons ; the back

showed a belt that held the slight fullness above and below it in place. Most attractive also was a coat of o'possum. In shaded style, that was double-breasted, "fastening with two buttons on the left side, and had wide turn-back cuffs. Raccoon and eeal were used for the collars and cuffs of two smart pony coats, the latter forming not only the collars and cuffs, but being applied in a wide band about the bottom. Cloth coats, fur-lined and having collar and cuffs of another fur, are well liked, since they can be worn upon occasions when the all-fur coat is not desirable. An exclusive furrier who makes something of a specialty of this style of garment considered one of his best models a broadcloth, In a sort of elephant grey, which was lined with squirrel and had generous collar and cuffs of Persian lamb. The sleeves on this coat were of the set-in variety, but another coat he was showing had the sleeves designed in one with the body, so that there was a heavy eeam from the shoulder to the cuff. This garment was drawn into a belt at the waist line in the back, with the slight fullness in the back that is a leading feature of fall and winter coats. Linings are an important detail of any garment for the fastidious woman. This season she will have no fault to find with the tasteful selections which have been made for the fur coats and scarfs. Changeable silk serges are durable and good-looking, while the striped silk give variety, and the rich brocades are always elegant and satisfactory.

Copyright 1912 by I. J. Koblnion. From a Paris Letter.) ( Paris, France. Dear Louise: So you want me to tell yon how these fascinating French women are wearing their hair this fall that you may put on a new coiffure with your new fall costumes? Any how, my dear, and every how! You know they say a French woman's success in retaining the devotion of her admirers is because she does her hair differently every day. Of this I am sure, every woman one sees has her hair arranged quite differently from anybody else's; individuality is sought above everything. There are a few general rules that are usually observed, the ears are kept well covered, the effect of the coiffure tends to make the head appear small, and very simple arrangements are preferred. As a rule, the hair is loosely waved, drawn down over the

Cy Jn Drayton. ears and into a knot or twist at tbe nape of the neck. I think this style should be very becoming to you, although since you hare a high forehead I'd suggest that you part your hair on the side and bring it well down across your forehead. Tbe back hair Is being arranged in big coils that usually require a small foundation to build on. One sees many Psyche knots, and a new kind of French twist that is most attractive, being soft and loose not at all like the tight, stiff twists we used to see. The one-sided effects that have had such a tremendous Togue in costumes have surely gone to our heads, literally and figuratively. Often all the hair ornaments are worn on one side, and sometimes the hair Is dressed so as to carry out the same effect. Tou never see a French woman these days without an ornament of some kind in her hair. It may be a tortoise conrt, or a jeweled pin, or an elaborate bandeau of brilliants. A new notion that has found favor with not a few modish women is the wearing of a wide comb, usually with a roll-band top, as a sort of bandeau across the front of the head. This Is put In with the teeth pointing forward.

and really has a very youthful charm. You would low tbe ribbon ornaments I noticed In a box at the theatre the other evening, my dear. One waa a wreath of tiny pink flower, made of ribbon, with here and there a bit of soft green, and a bunch of the flowers with pert' ends of the ribbon forming a chou which the pretty girl who wore It had adjusted coquettlshly just back of her left ear. The other was a wired true-lover's knot of white satin quite like the wired bows we used to wear a few years ago which was worn low In the back beside tbe coll of hair that a httle brunette wore low In ber neck. Quite a novelty are tbe hair pins to which are attached feathery alrgrettea of Fpun glass, that come In almost all colors. The alrgrette springs from a rblnestone-studded ornament of some sort, a crown, perhaps, or a bowknot, a butterfly, a bird, or flower. I nave seen these attractive little ornaments selected with such tasteful regard for color harmonies or contrasts that they gave character to the whole costume. I hope this little gossip will give yoa a few new Ideas, Louise, which I shall hope to see carried out In your own charming way when I return. , Faithfully. Marie.

Friday, September

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Style Leaders

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Austin ..Millinery

IN THE WESTCOTT HOTEL

We will have, on

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IN THE WESTCOTT HOTEL