Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 37, Number 271, 18 September 1912 — Page 14

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Robinson.

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OR several seasons past the designers of ' fashions have lauuched their modish creations without giving them a family: name, so to speak.

Like the great artists whose masterpieces: are forever nameless, they have been Content to base their appeal on oiir Individual-, imaginations; we have t aught quaint" suggestion? .of the prim Colonial days ; we have seemed- to breathe the, exotic atmosphere' of the Orient, and we ' have been enchanted with the revived charm of the days of Louis XV. ' ' I -' : J''"-.,'''"' This' season, hbwover,- we hear little

talked- about but Dlrectolre 'modes. Suits and gowES and the inflnlto iiccessorlcs '-, of . dress all bear the impress of this influence, modified, of course, and mndo to embrace many attractive features that have survived the caprices of fashion. ; The ' most notable 'characteristic of the newest suits designed along these lines is the Robespierre collar. This style of collar appeared in much of the summer neckwear, but it has been, most cleverly adapted to fall and winter fults. Occasionally one sees it quite unmodified that is, In the form of a high,' standing turn-down collar that reaches only around the back to the ears and is supplemented by revers ; but for the most part the latest collars resemble more a modified Byron collar. ; The over-collar is often of a darker shade of velvet than the suit, or may be of a lighter shade of broadcloth, i Light broadcloths are used a great deal Tor the little vest effects that are well liked In suits of this design, some of (the vests being made detachable. '". i Sleeves continue to be of the set-in variety, those in the separate coats having generally the deep armhole. BELTED AND SHIRRED EFFECTS PROMINENT. In length the suit coats vary from 28 to 83 Inches, according to the size of the garment. Cutaway styles are very prominent, and there is a tendency to the 'elongation of the back, in many of the smartest models. The most striking novelty of the new suit-, and coats is the tree of belted and shirred effects. What is sometimes called the Prince George back is especially popular. This has a slight fullness above and below the waist gathered into a half-belt that Is sometimes carred upward just a little. The waist ljne, however, is kept normal in nearly all garments ; indeed, there is an increasing tendency to follow more closely the lines of the 4gure than has been done for some time. It hail required the exercise of amazing ingenuity on the part of the cos-

tumers , to introduce a considerably

greateri amount of material into their lOltx aad gowns, and still maintain the leadr AlUwueite to which the woman of faafcion la dard. The ptoated

skirt appears often In the fall and winter models, but there is little suggestion of the old style kilted skirts, so un!versally worn a few years ago. Thej pleats are scant and flat and usually ex-j tend only from the knees to the skirt' edge. Various novel adaptations of the tunic, with now and then a suggested panler arrangement, in combination with these kick pleats, are the distinctive features of the new models. A Clever use of pleats was noticed on a suit of blue diagonal,; designed for street wear. . ' Three side turning pleats extended . from the collar, in the back, to the bottom of the coat. The similar pleats in the back of the skirt

were stitcbed flat to within about six Inches of the, hem, when they were al

lowed to fly, the same Idea being car-

riod out in the front

Cn the same order was a trim black

serge suit which had the edges of the narrower pleats, that were laid in slot

fashion down the back of both coat and skirt, bound with black braid. This is a very popular trimming feature Just now, seen on many of the best suits. It was strikingly employed on a suit of grey whipcord, being "used to bind; the edge of the jacket and on the edges of a couple of pleats down the back

or the skirt which were arranged In ni"h a way as to resemble the style of the jacket In the front. Crystal buttons fastened the jacket at the waist line. The tenacity with which taffeta clings to fashion's fancy Is evidenced by the Inlays of it one sees on some of the collars of the less strictly tailored suits. A navy blue suit of the modish wide wale diagonal was given an Interesting toucn by the use of chameleon taffeta on the collar. The half belt across the back that held the meager gathers in place turther suggested an actual belt effect by the pearl bnckle set a little to one side. The skirt was quite plain except for small kick pleats laid in panel style. PANIERS ARB VARIED. Panler effects are well adapted to the suits of velvet that will appear a little later on, their popularity unabated. Particularly graceful was a model in dull bronze brown veJVet. The jacket had a deep collar with wide revers, and was fulled into a belt of embroidered silk, having threads of copper through It, which met leather belt straps at the sides. The skirt of the Jacket was lifted slightly at the edge and fulled onto the wide band of stitched velvet that encircled the collar, cuffs, and bottom of the coat. A similar band was carried down the side of the skirt and about the bottom, wffh the skirt falling over It easily in panler effect. Another development of the panler aiotif was worked into a broadcloth suit of Jaspe green. The paniers over each hip, very scant and soft, were shirred under the apron like t .-.: 1c that was plain save for an inverted back pleat and two pleats from the knee

By Bne Mansfield.

down, at either side. The straight, standing collar of the coat was of braid embroidered silk, as was the narrow straight vest, the wide cuffs and false pockets on either side. Prophetic of the passing of the onesided effects are the suits which button straight up the front The high closing is seen on many attractive suits , also, as well as on the majority of j the separate coats. i FEATURES OF THE NEW COATS, i Coats show little that is new for the : winter season, most of them having the characteristics of the late summer models. They are usually made up from rough materials, such as chinchilla and bouclG, fabrics having a diagonal weave being particularly favored. Some of the boucle coats have collars of plush, and the chinchilla coats are likewise relieved with collars and cuffs of plush, , or chinchilla of a contrasting shade. ' Shawl collars and wide cuffs are in I good style, but the high-buttoned ef- ! fects will prove both fashionable and ! practicable for severe weather, j Deep-cut armboles are used almost i entirely on the separate coats, the square armhole representing the latest

development of this style. One of the most attractive coats that has been shown this season was a tan chinchilla that had a collar and rever made In one piece, of brown broadcloth, the rever being very wide and extending over the shoulder to form a

laree sailor collar, which

what deeper at the left This oblique edge of the color emphasized the oneside effect The coat fastened low at the front, with two large fancy buttons, set close together a way of placing buttons that Is a feature of fall novelties. Added warmth Is given to many of the coats which are made up in the shoulder cape style. One might easily dispense with furs when wearing one of these comfortable garments.?A goodlooking one of gray zlbeline had a

pointed shoulder cape with cutaway

effect In the front The cape was linJ with a bright blue chiffon broadcloth, and the buttons and straps that trimmed the coat were attractively piped with the broadcloth also. DIRECTOLRE MODES PREVAIL. In gowns, as well as suits and outer garments, the Dlrectolre note prevails, dividing honors with the panier styles. Close fitting skirts that reveal the form from waist to feet, and having moderate trains, are being worn by women who are always gowned according to the latest dictates of fashion. A chic little gown, illustrating the latitude which couturiers permit themselves, had the waist in the Dlrectolre style the wide pointed revers and collar reaching only to the shoulders while the skirt was a panier model, fastened down the side with ball buttons and draped over an accordion-

pleated foundation. The accordion !' - - - - : pleating came well above the knee, and tht bmt had a row of the buttons set on a band apart- The8e wrre of the same material as the collar ex- SB bnttans- J

These ac- UCJl,JCU acxwss u uacs uuun tuurwuj,

And had a csn at the left side which

hung below the jacket so that It erel the cerise band.

tending down the left side.

cordion pleated skirts are cleverly ;

shaped so that they cling to the figure almost as closely as the scant models. The sleeves of this gown, like those of nearly all the fall models, were long. A new feature of sleeve treatment Is the 6hlrred under cuff of net Tiny frills about the haai and carried up the outer seam of the sleeve are quaintly becoming. Frills are used quite extensively on some of the afternoon and evening frocks, although always arranged in such manner as absolutely to maintain narrow lines. A lovely French model, having a tunic skirt and surplice waist effect, had row upon row of striped taffeta ruffles that tapered up to the point of crossing of the tunic, midway between the knee and the waist line. Worsted voile, in a beautiful shade of old blue, was used for a three-piece costume designed for early fall wear. The skirt was in panler style, with a foundation of finely pleated voile, put straight about the bottom and Just below tbe knees. Down one side of the waist and the skirt was a band of deep cerise velvet, toned down by small

A gown in which the Louis Seise modes were meat artistically brought

out, was of soft, white satin, brocsoea with sprigs of tiny, old-Taahkned flowers. The skirt was looped op In tttfla paniers In the frsnt. that reached toi the knee, while the back hnnc fuHj from the rather lea walsCme. Td prettily draped up panders disclosed arc underskirt of soft white aSk with rows: of fire-Inch shadow lace, one above another from the hem to the paniers.. Two Tetret ribbon bows of French btee

placed on either side of the looped

up sstta orersklrt, where it met the filmy underskirt of lace. The bodice, arranged In surplicefsstdon. was of the shadow lace over flesh color chiffon. In the back the white satin of the foundation came up over this lace to the top of the right shoulder. TJere a quaint wired bow of the brae relvet ribbon held the lace and brocade together, drawing the lace up from the arm, which was exposed, the

other arm being half veiled with lace.

WITHAM'S

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Where Quality and Reasonable Prices Prevail

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OUR FALL SHOWING

Of Hats Will Be On

J The Laws.-,, "I care not who make's the country's laws." said the" "sharp" lawyer. ir- . : "If what?" his coheague asked.,' "If they continue to put in verbiage that may be variously Interpreted." Chicago. Record-Herald.

'; Especially. The Preacher We never realize the full value of anything until we lose it. The Bereaved Widow That's so, especially if the tost thing Is insured.

How to Cook Cheap Steak. Take an ordinary piece of round steak an inch or more in thickness and with a sharp knifo cut lightly both sides across the fiber a half Inch apart, dredge wen with flour and fry in bacon fat and butter. When browned on both sides cover with hot water. Simmer gently for a half hour in a tightly covered frying pan. Flace the meat on a platter, add flour to make' a thick gravy and pour over the neat

THURSDAY SEPTEMBER

and FRIDAY 19th and 20th

Hats are unusually pretty this year and we extend to all a cordial invitation to visit our store during our opening. WITHAM MILLINERY 318 Main Street