Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 36, Number 315, 20 September 1911 — Page 14

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THE RICHMOND PALLADIUM AND SUN-TELEGRAM, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 1911.

Louise Beaufc: V V J lN fc V

Copyrighted, 1911, by Z. J. Boblnson.

TTTTt 1 -J -M AL. i I

of England's monarchy bare

Interest In the eyes of all

the world. And even In demo

cratic America we hare been a bit dazzled thereby. The return of the

great to mediaeval brilliance of color, tnd riot of gold and jewels, for this

treat occasion, is reflected in the robes Of Fashion generally. 80 that all of

Vx world shall catch a ray or two of

the glories of nobles and kings. Coro

na tlon red and king's bine are not the

only darlings of the mod that boost

S royal descent For there are Innumerable opulent touches to be noted In gold embossed brocades and tinsel tassels, In beading, jeweling and heavy embroidery that bint at the influence of the great and mysterious East ' At a recent exhibition of imported models, four examples of the successful exploitation of East Indian ideas X ere noted. The first was an afternoon costume of nary blue Liberty Satin, with Oriental embroideries, gleaming with metal threads. It was a one-piece robe effect, fastened down the front and shirred In, at the waist line, where a girdle of plaited satin cords, with heavily weighted sash ends,

Confined tho fullness. The skirt was

left open almost to knee height, so as

to show the ankle in walking, the

front sections lapping across each other. This gave a very narrow effect, and . wrapped tho garment closely

about tbo figure, In sucn a manner as

to clearly reveal its lines. This cos

tume was iu low tones, relieved by

sumptuous embroideries of many colors, skilfully blended, and applied, in such a manner as to seem woven with tbo fabric Itself. An evening costume, by Paquto, also bespoke the Influence Cf East India, In motive and coloring. The foundation lining waa of a peculiar shade of East Indian red chiffon, veiled with a medium bright", blue shade of tho same material. The over dress was scattered with an embroidered floral pattern In heavy dull bine and mauve silk, and dark blue wooden beads. A deep band, at the hem, below the chiffon tunic, was In striped silk and cotton East India tissue and gave the appearance of an under petticoat The stripes were In blue, orange, black, purple, green and pale blue, and gleaming with J metal threads. Appltqued motives of dark blue chiffon, with embroidered designs, further elaborated this underskirt Beading the band and as a sort of border to the chiffon tonic were, dark blue wooden beads. This was a two-piece drees, consisting of bodice and skirt, with a girdle placed slightly above the natural waist line, at its lowest point As the girdle was wide, however. It Increased the short-waist ed effect The bodice waa of the surplice order, with the characteristic doable crossing lines

of the East Indian dress, and on the

right breast, falling to one side, was a jabot of the chiffon in Indian red and dark blue. The military sash girdle and bands of the surplice front were of changeable blue and purple taffeta. The variety of colors, in this costume, was unusual, and yet so skilfully handled as to produce a delightfully harmonious effect As has been notedV the general lines of afternoon and evening costumes 'incline towards simplicity. The high waist line and rather narrow skirts prevail, in the majority of models, though there are a few which show a leaning toward the 1S30, rather than thedirectolre modes. Fichu effects are not uncommon, with here and there a suggestion of bertha or bretelles. Cords, tassels and fringes are widely . used as decorations, the latter being especially Noticeable. Naturally with fringes to the fore, draped effects again assert themselves. A threepiece costume recently exhibited Illustrates . this tendency perfectly. It inclined a bit toward the quaint 1860 effects, and had, as on entirely new feature, the much talked of balloon sleeves, whose fullness at the elbow was stretched on little hoops of featherbone. The bodice had a draped fichu about the shoulders,, bordered with fringe, below a small white net yoke, trimmed with tiny buttons. Lavender brae, permo crepe was the material chosen for this little gown and coat, and the fringe was in the same color. The fichu and under sleeves were of white chiffon, and the fichu collar of the wrap was of white wool. The skirt of this costume was In tunic ef

fect, wrapping the figure closely, and the edges were bordered with fringe and heavily weighted in order to pro

duce a close, clinging effect In the

draperies. The wrap was also in the

draped style, with fringe about the edges, the fronts draping over like the ends of a shawl. The sleeves were

half length and across the back was a little belt of shirring which held the wrap In to the figure at the waist line. Tunic effects continue In favor, embroidery bands, beading and fringes finishing the . lower edges and the sleeves. Bordered pattens, printed or embroidered, offer pleasing possibilities of manipulation into charming tunic costumes. Kimona or butterfly sleeves still retain their bold upon popular fancy, although the draped sleeve and the . balloon sleeve, which are newer, nave come to dispute their popularity. Very long, close fitting sleeves are a feature of many a smart

costume, suggesting early Italian styles.

Girdles, sashes and cordeliers are in quaint harmony with the revival of these antique modes, as are also trimmings of marlbou and fur. Very soft satin and messaline and softly draping woolen fabrics are most appropriate In these clinging costumes, while voiles, marquisettes, chiffon cloths, and crepes,

both plain and - figured, appear In'

tunics and over-draperies. Heavy surah silks have again made their appearance in the field of fashion, after

an absence of many years, and will find a ready welcome. Taffeta, too, Is again modish, costumes in this material, fringe trimmed, which were one of the sensations of the late summer, being shown as demltoilettes, for Fall and Winter, Short coats and close skirts, ; giving the fashionable slender outlines, are still the favorites, though skirts are not so narrow as they have been during the past few seasons, having attained just the proper dimensions for grace and ease. Two to two and one-half yards is an average measure about the hem of the smart fall tailored skirt Plain gored effects are, of course, ultra modish, but there are many pretty models, showing pleats let in at the side from knee to hem. Panel backs are wellnigh universal, some circular skirts or skirts with circular cut backs, being about the only exceptions. Tunic skirts of wool show simulated under-skirt effects of satin or velvet, the collar lapels, cuffs and other trimmings of the jacket matching the underskirt Jackets vary from twenty-six to twenty-eight, and even in some cases,

thirty inches in length, affording a I

very good range for individual selection. In addition to the usual straight cut coats there are many modish, semifitted jackets, better suited to the lines of the average well-developed figure. Very narrow English cut shoulders appear upon the Jackets of smart tailored suits, absolutely no fullness in the top of the sleeves being allowed. A.tfew fancy suits are cut with the

kimona or butterfly sleeve, which, is essentially dressy. Coats, with high waist line in the back, are also seen on costumes for dressy wear. The real fashion features of fall suits and coats are the handsome , wide, fancy collars, revers and broad cuffs, carried out in a variety of novel ways. These are often of contracting color and fabric, or inlaid with velvet braid, or contrasting cloth. Both double and single breasted effects appear in the fall models, though the former, perhaps, best suits the purposes of fancy revers and collars. All binds of rough, heavy materials are smart for tailored suits, bourette cloth, basket weaves and fancy mixtures being the order of the day, varied with a few mannish suitings. Zibeline, plain and in two-toned effects, are again in style, as might be expected with the "vogue for longhaired fabrics. Striped zibeline show red or white hair lines, on dark

grounds. Striped 6uitings, of all kinds, are very smart, for Fall and Winter wear. For dressy wear, velvet suits will take the place of the satin models, which achieved such a triumph during the spring and summer. Embroidery, on velvet is a new idea In adornment the designs being executed either in heavy silk or colored worsted. Browns, purples, black and white effects, grays and dark blues are all modish and appropriate for the fall tailor-made. The popularity of pretty little dresses of wool or silk, and of short jacket tailored suits, renders at least one long coat on essential of the well balanced winter wardrobe. Never was fashion's display of outer wraps more lavish than for this season, the automobile, perhaps, having had some Influence upon the vogue for long coats. The fifty-four Inch coat i9, in fact preferred above all others, which is at

least a good, warm, comfortable whim upon the part of dame fashion. For general wear there are many splendid garments of this kind, in soft, snug, reversible, blanket material, rather rough in ' surface effect but extremely smart Reversible cloths are the , correct thing for these long coats, the color of the reverse side appearing in broad, fancy collars, revers and cuffs. Usually the outer side is of a plain, practical color, grey, greyish mixture,

nary, black and white, brown mixture or tan, while the Inner 1 side Is of! gayer hue, pale bines, red, bright tan, or the pretty crisp plaids of the Highland clans. .? :f -v-- v The more dressy coats of . broadcloth, satin, velvet and plush have very beautiful dlrectolre and Charlotte Corday collars cut on the deep, fashionable lines, often simulating hoods or capes, and ornamented with pendant tassels,

Mrs. C. A. BREHM

- . A Cwriese Herb. In New Caledonia tfcere is a herb which has thersxe property of revealsac eae's- secrets. It Is known as the DsSara r straaaonlum and has white

an&reaghttoerrles fulfcef dark Thcu treated, of In the

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Avoidant Days. An investigation Into the causes of accidents among ' industrial workers carried on for,- a. number of years In Germany shows tbat the greatest number of casualties occur' on Saturday, while Monday? is a close second. The large number of accidents en Saturday is generally explained:; by the fatigue of the week telling on the. men. but it Is noted also that the Monday accidents are about as numerous. This gives rise to the suggestion that the day ef .rest lsaoaaetines not toe wisely spentMeJeatEecord.

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Fall and Winter

E cordially invite your most liberal inspection on our lat

est up-to-the-minute Millinery.

1911-1912

"Authentic Throughout."

LATEST TRIMMINGS The New Amber, Violet and Myrtle, Messaline and Changeable Velvets, Feathers, Ostrich and Marabon Bands. No two alike. COME, BE OUR CUSTOMER If yau always have been, we more than appreciate it. If not start now and get a stylish hat at the right price and know what good treatment is. Remember your calls will receive our prompt and courteous attention at all times, at :, .

22 Mrs. C. 1 BE A STYLE LEADER"