Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 36, Number 140, 29 March 1911 — Page 10
l'AGE TWO.
THE KICJ13IOXD PALLADIUM AND SUX-TELEGEAM, WEDNESDAY 31 ARCH 2f, 1011.
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fly Rene Mansfield
HE future historian of modes may be somewhat put to it to coin a classic, general term for tbe fashions now In ' vogue. Tbe style mak
ers themselves thin season would seem to have shifted this responsibility onto Iostcrlty's fafchlon mongers. They hare given ua revivals of the dress of the. IHrectoIre period, of the days of I ho Empire, and of the Middle Ages, cud ndaptattons of the Russian garb i. id the peasant costume and the Greek f.Trt'ts, but they have quite neglected V supply us with a picturesque name for present-day styles. It Is perhaps because they are n rather bewildering combination of Mean adopted from mo many sources that it Is impossible to lay one' finger on any dominant characteristic suggestive of other times and .copies. Bo It Is possible that we are in the mfdst of an epoch all our own In dress, which, who knows, may some time be referred to as that of the Aero Age, perhaps. If we hear little about atyle we hear a great deal about the silhouette. Tbe shadow we cast, these days, is more Important than tbe costume that casts It That Is to say. it Is the Hues of a gumcot that determine Its fashionableness, and these lines roiwt be narrow, straight, slender, close. In the milts this Is produced by making straight seams from the shonlder to the bottom of the coat without defining 1he waistline. This U accentuated further by the ; narrow cut of the shoulders and the suug fitting hips, which huj the skirt so- closely as to seem a pav of It. 'The skirts, though the tight banding about the bottom has been entirely abandoned, are very narrow and straight, measuring not more than 2 yards about tbe bottom. The short coat Is the thing. By stealthy Inches the tailors have been snipping off our coat talis, until not a particle longer than twenty-six Inches may we wear our suit coats and consider ourselves In style. In the dressy suits the belted blouse with a short peplum Is also shown, nnd the Eton Jacket. If not actually arrived en masse. Is certainly on its way. as numerous models in tbe high priced costumes prove. It Is a natural sequence of the short-walsted gowns and the hlgh-walsted skirts. In fit, the new Jackets are a marvel for the way la which they reveal the
form without . exactly following the curve. The snug hip and bust, and the 'narrow shoulder, with only the waist line undefined, aids in the accomplishments of this result in these seven-eighths fitting garments. Sometimes the waist line Is made quite a bit higher than usual, either by means of the cut itself, or through some sort of trimming. The full length coat sleeves are used" exclusively on the tailored models, mounted with a plain hend. In the more dressy styles of the three-piece costume the klmona sleeve cut in one with the body of the coat Is most frequently used. Every possible variety of the sailor collar Is to be found on the smart' Street suits. This form of collar is particularly adapted to the narrow styles that prevail, giving a certain expression and balance to the figure that It would otherwise lack. Showing the prevalence of the new point motif that Is noticeable in all the latest designs Is the collar with great double points in the back, and sometimes a couple of points In front. Other new'forms are shallow' at the back, broad at tbe shoulder points, and taper sharply up to the front closing. There ts a tendency toward making this front closing extend considerably higher than has been the rule in the past season, since some of the new collars which are wide in the back and narrow toward the front seem to require this treatment, but it Is doubtful if It will be general until the fall days make the higher closing seem desirable. The skirts clear the ground by at least three inches, and are shown in a variety of conceptions, all. however, maintaining carefully tbe straight narrow lines. A neat blue serge suit, with a jacket having a black satin sailor collar nuj satin cuffs, bad the skirt made with only one seam and cut scantily circular. This seam at the back was covered with a straight overhanging panel. Other suit skirts arc shown with two broad separate ranela, one in the back and one in the front which cross each other at the sides in pointed effect. The skirt to which these are flatly stitched Is. of course, of narrow cut Tbe pointed yoke promises to be a prominent feature of the mid-summer skirts. Serge is again this season the favored fabric for the tailored costume, In either the fine French twill or herrlogboBc effects. Checked and striped
worsteds are also greatly in demand, as well as silver-grey mannish looking suitings and rough effects in Scotch mixtures. Satin, in black or blue amounts almost to a craze, in its use for the dressier suits. Moire is also gaining favor. One stunning model in black moire was made in the new blouse effect with a slightly raised belt and tight-fitting peplum. The trimming consisted of heavy silk frogs and large Irish lace sailor collar. Blue Is obliged to share honors with black and white combinations for first place in the spring color curriculum. Black and white checks and stripes are very prominent and are oftenest seen
with a touch of color introduced into
the collar of tbe suit, or into the trim
ming of the waist when the lighter weight black and white fabric is used
for a frock. Cerise is especially strik
Ing when used in this way. Quite as dashing i8 the use of black broadcloth or satin for the wide collars, cuffs, pocket flaps, and buttons outlining the side panels of the skirt, on these black
and white suits. Navy blue, old blue and king's blue are the most desirable shades in the heavier suitings. Next in popularity are tan, snuff brown, leaf green, violet and silver grey. Although the tailored and semi-tailored suits will be worn to a greater
extent than ever before this spring, j the long coat is bound to be in demand' for wear with the summer silks and lingerie gowns. The full length coat fashioned in the straight line effects, made up In serges for tbe utility garment, and in silk or satin for the dressier models, is easily in tbe lead, although before the end of the season
it is expected that the tendency to shorten the suit coats will make itself felt in the odd coats also. Particularly clever are the white serge coats, with
the black hairline stripe. One of these cut with the popular raglan sleeve and
having a broad belt high across the
back, to give a certain Empire effect
had a large, black satin lined hood col
lar and waa trimmed with large metal
buttons on the cuffs and collar. For early spring wear there is noth
Ing equal to the simple little foulard
I gown. These are being shown made up
sith band trimmings of plain satin,
or more elaborately veiled with mar
quisettes or voiles. The new features of the simpler frocks may be summed
up as, the shortened waist line, long shoulder effects acquired by collars.
fichus, or the clever application of
trtmmingSi and the tise of the long orj short tunic in many new forms.
The surplice and the fichu style for
the waists is carried out in every sort of gown, from the plain linen or em
broidered one to tbe veiled evening
gown. The point or crossing, in eitner
case, is arranged well toward tbe belt
which allows an opportunity for con
siderable elaboration in front trimming. Trimming bands are being ap
plied in various pointed effects, since
the point is the keynote of all trim mlng motifs this season.
Many of the newest models In lin
gerie gowns as well as in the evening
costumes are trimmed in a manner to
suggest the bolero, which Is gaining so
rapidly in favor again. On the dressy
gowns fringe is sometimes rased to fin
ish the edge of tbe trimming, while
on the simple models hand embroid
ery and bead work are used to supple
ment the bolero of lace Insertion.
A novel feature of a few of the lat
est lingerie gowns Is the use of the
black tunic of cotton net or the in
troduction of several rows of black
lace into the skirt A striking gown
of embroidery and val lace had two
rows of black Chantiny about rour
inches wide set In about the bottom of the skirt A tunic of black net covering the lower part of the waist-
nnd the upper part of the skirt was
edged with tiny black balls, and a black
satin belt completed the chic effect
Another gown In which this Idea
waa charmingly used was of white lace -over a pink slip. A wide flounce of:
black net onto which waa applied a band of Japanese embroidery, in white, fell from beneath the overdress of lace, -
which thus simulated a tunic. The!
edge of this was also trimmed with
the ball fringe, In white.
A touch of color is seen on most of
these lingerie models, with a very apparent preference for tbe bit of black.
Much ingenuity is exercised In cater-1 ing to this foible of fashion, and delightfully unique Is the result many times. Just the right character was given to a baby Irish lace robe by the Inch-wide black velvet ribbon caught beneath the scallops of the last row of lace about the bottom of the skirt and the ribbon of a narrower width, laced through slides at the waist to tie In' a long bow at the left of the back.
Tha wild winds blow fierce and fast Snow drifts the houee around. Itarkl Ulah aboro the wintry blast There comaa joyful MunJ. Tie Ilk the sigh of cephrrs warm . - That hint of summer blue. A soft. iwhI note above tha etorm The steam pipe's mallow Mas. Judce. Dyepaptlo Maeea. Percy Mlae Jan, did Mmm have the aame after dinner complaint uiy papa's got Miss Jane Gracious me. Percy. ' Whatever do you mesa, my dear? Percy Well, it says here the Lord rave Moses two tablets. Chicago Inter Ocean. .
Insufficient. A yearly eaek of wine they wo In payment for a laureate's lay. Tla rot enough to drown his woo At what tho envious critics nay. W"aahlnrton Star. Too Effective. The fair damsel panted for breath. "Algernon,- she exclaimed, "you mustn't bunch your kisses like that" Chicago Tribune. Progress. Each year the millinery ahow Makes Ufa seem aomewhat sunnier. Tn hats can be no larger, so They try to mak them funnier. IJs ' . Spokane Spokeaman-Revlaw.
A Bevy of Spring Garment Beauties Here For Your Selection The Spring Fashion Show dominates our entire store. Busy style-seekers throng the Women's Wear Department for here are shown all the authoritative modes of the new season. All the latest Paris has to offer adapted tor America are included in our display of Printzess Coats and Suits. Come and see and buy. The very name PRINTZESS assures you of style, leadership, fit, perfection, service unexcelled. The makers guarantee these Printzess garments to keep their original fit and shape through two seasons' wear. Their famous shape .retaining .fabric Printzess Plio Canvas makes this guarantee possible. It is a feature exclusive to Printzess garments. .y " J""t a Few Described For Your Information: TAILOR MADE SUITS beautiful importations of rare foreign loom weaves as well as exact copies or modifications of models by Famous Paris makers for Ladies, Misses and Juniors. Prices range from $12.50 to $40.00. DAINTY DRESSES of foulards in veiled effects in plain colors, Marquisette, Voile and Lingerie, for Ladies, Misses and Juniors, $9.50 to $18.50. SPRING COATS for dress and general wear in all the new creations for Ladies, Misses and Juniors. Prices range from $10.00 to $40.00.
of the best European and American producers for Ladies, Misses and Juniors, $5.00 to $20.00. Don't fail to see our line of all the imported models in Waists in Marquisettes. Prices range $5.00 to $20.00. Come to see our Special Silk Petticoat for $5.00 with a guarantee for 5 months.
Ours is the only exclusive ready-to-wear store in the city of correct dress for women
closes every day S:30
m. Saturdays 9 :30 p. m. Phone 270B 533 MAIN STREET
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