Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 35, Number 126, 13 March 1910 — Page 35

THE RICHMOND PALLADIUM AND SUN-TELEGRAM, SUNDAY, MARC II 13, 1910.

PAGE FIFTEEN

,HERE are at least three widely

distinct suit models offered to fashionable men for the spring and summer season. In sea-

past men have had the

option " of several designs to

choose 'from but not In recent seasons has the choice covered so much contrast In modelling- as is evidenced In the authoritative suit' models now displayed. The model that greatest emphasis is laid upon Is a loose Btaort sack coat. Moch looser and ihorter than we have seen In several seasons. The length of the coat for men of average build Is to be about S1V4 Inches. It Is cut straighter than usual and on more conservative lines, and will for that reason be less form defining than heretofore. These loose sack coats fall more direct from the shoulders than the coats of last season, the sleeves are fuller and there Js considerably more elbow room noticeable. The sleeve heads are also full and jthe lapels show less length of roll, yet the fold will be long and narrow, with a Somewhat rakish roll that will harmonise land balance with the fuller back, exaggerated chest and modified shoulder. The ishoulder is sloping following more of jlhe natural lines than the heroic types (of yesteryear. While this model is defined as conservative still it is such a radical departure from what we have recently ' seen that it partakes of the nature of an extreme innovation without being extreme In Its Uetalla or embellishments. It is a coat that must be skillfully tailored to bring out Its merits and Its grace and the entire attractiveness of the garments depends on its balance and contour as all fanciful ornamentation Is eliminated, many models not even having the conventional back vent. Another accepted model that smart tailors and designers are featuring is a far

cry from the garment spoken of above. This model is slightly form fitting and shapely to a fault in its contour. The coat is about the same length as the loose sack but it is decidedly tapering at the waist and naturally flaring over the hips. Many variations of this model, all follow

ing the creneral form flttinar lines.

shown. Many new cuff conceptions are

offered and there are varying widths- and

lengths of lapel roll. The prominent note of this garment is the exaggerated chest

fullness that with the narrower waist, fuller hips and larger sleeves will add sufficient dash to classify this design as

an exceedingly snappy garment.

Still another model that is contemplated for young men is a sack coat that la a trifle longer than either of the other

models. For the man of normal height

(5 feet, inches) the coat is about 32 Inches in length. It is close fitting and flaring but with less of the extreme hip

seen in young men's models of last season.

It has a modified front dip and plenty of

snapplness in pocket and cuff treatment to meet the young man's fancy. The shoul

ders are wider than the natural build and It has an exaggerted ches that give It

athletic modelling. This model shows the

shoulders wider than the hips and this

characteristic accentuates the athletic aspect desired by college men and others who affect their styles. In these sack coats there Is great variety of lapel treatment as to width, iength and roll and various conceptions that bring' out the Individuality of the designer principally expressed in the pocket and cuff designing. The best and most fashionable models, however, do not go to extremes and therefore we shall see less of the freakish fancies that are prone to make young men's clothes ofttimes ridiculous. All coats close with two, three or four buttons, the three button models being in the majority. The buttons are not quite so closely set as previously. Vests-are about the same in design as last season. Some with collars hut the most without collar or lapels. Trousers will be lees pegtopped even in the young men's models, tending more to the conservative, straight and less full cut than previously and are to be worn either plain or turned up to suit the preference of the wearer. The popular spring overcoat will be the 42 Inch Chesterfield, with the lapels moderately long and broad and slightly shaped in at the waist. There is more moderation shown in the width of the shoulders

though the sleeves are cut pretty full. This garment closes with a three button fly front. This will be the standard coat of the season though there are many variations of this -model cut more or less full or shapely according to the inclination of the wearer as he leans toward conservatism or in the opposite direction. There is also a box overcoat that will havo some adherents. This model Is clinging at the neck and shoulders and falls loose in a wide sweep. It has large and very full sleeves. Among the other outer garments that will be worn this season is a loose raglan style raincoat with either the vrctector collar or the regular. Thl$ garment follows so closely the well defined raglan lines that description here is unnecessary. In both rain coats and regular coats there is a tendency toward the return of the paddock coat with Its exaggerated chest, shaped In waiet, full sweep skirts and lap seams. So many of the really fashionable dressers in the large cities are wearing these coats that their Influence is bound to bear fruit if not in a prominent degree this season they will surely be noticeable next fall. The same might be said about the surtout and paletot coats. Just as conservatism is the dominant

note in designing for this season's styles S3 also is it noteworthy in patterning nnd color schemes. The two prominent colors of the day are grays and blues, and next to these the fancy blacks, the latter confined to suits. The entire gamut of the gray tones running from the light grays to the dark oxfords are the very height of fashion this season. The materials most in vogue are the tweeds, cheviots, cassimers, velours and unsheared worsteds. During the summer months many suits will be shown ;p. t!.o tro?!cai fabrics such as homespun.

crashes and flannels. The suit patterns run principally to shepherd checks, and 'plaids, broken checks, club checks. p!nhcads and modest stripes. In the overcoats stripes chiefly are employed and these are of a more obtrusive nature than in the suit patterns. Some plaids and

medium stripes are also shown In the

suits and a few. but comparatively very

few, bold stripes are shown la any gar'ments this season. i The blues and blacka are being shown (mostly in fancy worsteds and flannel effects and also in some velour finishes.

The patterns are of the most subdued character and consist chiefly of arlftripes. shadow stripes, pencil or chalk strlpea The contrasting color with thaw is usually white or soft tones. Greens and browns as well as other eff-ehadea are very little shown.

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