Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 35, Number 126, 13 March 1910 — Page 22

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PAGE TWO THE RICII3IOND PALLADIUM AXD SUX-TELEGRAM, SUNDAY, MARCH 13, 101O.

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.ME. LA MODE? !a no respector

of history, chronology, nor seasons. , In less than a twelvemonth she has stepped airily out of Kins Dagobert's toggery Into the cuirass of the

Middle Ages and thence Into the courtly costumes of Louis the Fifteenth's time JNow her capricious head has been turned by military regalia and though the summer months are approaching she Is donning the modified uniform of the Russian Cossack, with complete indifference to the fact that it is obviously a winter effect. So the puzzled purveyors to her ladyship's whims have had to skirmish exceedingly to adapt the style to spring and summer usage. The result Is an lnUnite variety of bloused and belted garnents, but all showing the unmistakable Russian influence, even to the trimmings of broderio russe and the buckles and vlasps bearing the Russian eagle's head. Conservative buyers in this country, bowever, sound a warning note in the declaration that the Russian models will undoubtedly be favored In the dressier suits and three-piece costumes, but that lhe seven-eighths fitting tailored suits, Iwenty-six to thirty-two Inches In length, will easily hold their own. These will be made with long roll and notched collars and the left side lap, approaching almost to a blazer style when the roll collar Is Rirphasized. A novelty In these tailored garments is the introduction of lingerie effects. Pleated German Valenciennes edging the collar and cuffs adds that touch of lacy daintiness that feminizes the most strictly tailored suit. The developments of tho Russian blouse fleet range from the simplicity of the blouse coat brought Into the waist line with a patent leather belt, to the satin coats that are shirred or pleated into belts of gold braid or silk embroidery. It is whispered in the Inner circles of the Parisian modistes that before the end of summer the regretfully-relinquished Eton and bolero will come Into distinct favor again. We had had the long coats for several successive seasons now and the pendulum may naturally enough swing from their length to the abbreviation of Iho Eton and bolero. The home dressmaker will rejoice at this change, for the simple style of the short coats does not present the difficulties in making nor the expenditure that the longer garments do. But there seems to be a law of compensation in fashion as in other things. When two yards Is subtracted from the Coat lour yards is added to the skirt. A bas the skimpy, clingy skirt of yesterday. Pleats are back again In every delightful style of frou-frou. Tho novelty In the season's skirts is, of course, the tunic or half-draped effect over a pleated flounco. The apron tunic Is shown in many of tho ready-made models, but -since there tiro no hip seams whatever to allow alteiattons. it is necessary to obtain a perfect fit In the beginning, which Is not always an easy matter. The side pleated skirt, which proved so becoming to most flauro!!, has returned to favor as has also eveiy variation thereof the plain panel alternating with a pleated one, side plea's alternating with - ox pleats, shaped gores confining pleats below the hip line. Serge is undoubtedly the most popular fabric for the street suiis, the marine blue that was so much worn during the winter continuing In favor. So it be serge, one can make no mistake 1ft the selection of material for the spring suit, since every weave from the fine twill serge to the fancy and rough weaves will be used. Novelty cheviots, particularly in the black and white, or pepper-and-salt effects, two-

toned diagonal, basket cloths and mat

weaves will bo used in the more expensive,

suits. The tendency is toward the soft.

rough cloths, including homespuns and

worsteds. The pin-stripe serges It is expected will bo much worn, especially those with the hair-line stripe of black, from one-halt to three-quarters of an Inch

apart, on a white ground, or the white

line on a navy blue ground.

Although the three-piece suit in the

more elaborate styles will persist, the silk suit, consisting only of skirt and coat, bids fair to push to the front again as the smart apparel for semi-dressy occasions. Tussah and pongee silk are used almost exclusively In these suits, though ribbed and corded effects are also good. Foulards, which grew and grew to such extrava-j gance in sprawl and color that they lostj favor with the discriminating woman, are

insinuating themselves into her good

graces again by their soft colorings and

modest designs. The smaller the pattern the smarter the foulard is considered to

be. Another revival of a once popular

silk Is that of the changeable or chame

leon silk, which Is to be found In thei

taffetas and satins. Many of the new

suits and coats are lined with this changeable ellk, in a contrasting shade.

Though the suit coats have all been

shortened up into Russian blouse and even Eton lengths the separate coat for spring

continues to be full length, though often

developed In the Russian effects. The' straight cut garments on closely fitting lines are easily in the lead. Silk coats,' of black taffeta, or the natural shades of I pongee and tussah, will be much worn-

One model in tussah illustrates a new feature in the combination of a blouse

,front with a belted effect, without a belt, jhowever. The fullness of the blouse front 'is confined in three narrow tucks to which jis extended the skirt panel, thus forming

'a sort of low. broad belt. The very long

roll collar Is the distinguishing feature of the new coats, together with the left side lapping. Sometimes a single button fastens the coat at the waist line, and more than three are never used. j The color note for spring is a subdued one. Soft, silvery greys, greens with yellow glints in them, natural pongee shades, and all the pastel colorings predominate. In the changeable silks and foulards the tans, grays, rose, violet and green are preferred. The neutral tones of the street costumes are often relieved., however, by a touch of brilliant color at the neck, and the use of contrasting color in some of the new linings makes subtle color harmony possible. A striking pongee coat having a shawl shape collar of orange taffeta, embroidered in the same color, had a lining of coin spotted foulard having black dots on a burnt orange ground. Belted Effects Prevail In House And Evening Gowns. The popularity of the ready-made gown for every day or dress occasions has resulted in a wide selection of these to be found in the shops. They range In price and elaboration from the simple tailored effects in silks or light weight wool materials to the dinner gowns and evening costumes, swathed in chiffons and a-glint with tinsel. The modes seem to have

conspired to aid the woman who thriftily;

"makes things over. Oversklrts, draper-j ies, sashes, the use of several different materials on the same gown, sleeves made from net or chiffon or gold cloth what1 possibilities for the refurbishing of the

old directoire gown or ruffled evening

, present! The materials favored for the simpler.:

dresses are tussah and foulara"sT5cs.wooi batistes, voiles and cachemire. The Russian Influence is strongly, shown In the insistence upon a normal waist line, either suggested or encircled with a girdle, or belt of leather, or folds of material, often In a contrasting color. Though It was predicted that the vogue of the tunic would be fleeting many variations of Its simple outlines are being shown. The most approved style is cut off at the knees and is either of even, round length, or falls In points below the hips. With a short skirt the effect is not always graceful, so that tunic modes are best employed In the more elaborate costumes. The trimmings of the plainer dresses consist generally of self-covered cording, or braids in the cord or tubular effects. The preference for the military styles, with the side lapping of coats and costumes has brought out many new Ideas in ornaments and loops. Embroidery in coarse silks and yarns, and cross stitching Is much used on dresses, and coats also. It is predicted that laces will be used to a greater extent than they have been for years. Irish laces will continue

popular tout the lighter laces, such as the 1 Orientals, Chantlllys, lierre and Valenciennes will be especailly in demand because of their adaptability to draped effects.

The chiffon-veiled effects which have i

been so well liked In evening gowns the past season are now being used in reception gowns and dinner frocks. Black chiffon tunics over blue or green or orange satin foundations are among the more favored styles. Evening gowns for early spring are more profusely spangled and beaded and glittering than they were during the winter season. If that is considered possible. A mere man remarked the other day that a woman in fashionable evening dress looked like a streak of lightning and was as audible as a glass factory in an earthquake. But that doesn't matter at all. She has exhausted the supply of tinsel, so that now two-toned metal effects are being shown in laces and trimmings. Beads and bugles and cloth of gold and of silver are found on all the more elaborate gowns.

Sleeves need no longer be of the same material as the gown. Indeed they may be different for each arm if one wishes to adopt one of the latest caprices of fashion. Lace, net, gold and silver tissue and chiffon are largely used.

Linen and lingerie gowns already give

promise of unusual popularity. Pastel hades In linen, hand embroidered, ere shown In many tailored effects. The princess lines of the strictly lingerie sown which were anything but practical, have given way entirely to the full skirts and

belted waists. Madeira and Lorraine

broideries are much used on these -

and flouncing to a. width of twenty-

Inches are seen. One model has the body of the dress made of narrow strips of allover connected with insertion wlta nar row gallons above the flounce.

II GreM Iirnlteirestt tto EcimBiiMeaiIl

Accept This As An Invitation To visit our store and inspect our remarkable display of Spring merchandise. Do not ignore or decline the suggestion. The merchandise attractions were never so numerous and tempting. The price advantages were never so numerous and evident. OUR PLEA FOR YOUR PREFERENCE IS A PRACTICAL, COMMON-SENSE PERSUASIVE ONE. We promise to show greater assortment of styles and high standard qualities, with prices less than others ask. Our promises are faithfully performed. SIX YEARS OF SOLID GROWTH AND INCREASING INFLUENCE WOULD ONLY COME FROM TRUTH-TELLING AND HONEST DOING. Don't Miss Today's Store News and Don't Fail to Come Spring Dress Ginghams THE PRETTIEST YOU EVER SAW. A Wealth of styles for every taste, Scotch plaid, neat check and stripes in all the newest shadings of Greys, Tans, Rose, Pink, Blue, Lavender. Many in the two and three tone combination.

Ginghams such as these were never so cheap. Fine dress gingham look like the 15c kind, only 10c yd. Fine dress ginghams, elegant cloth, only 12c yd. 32 in. Barnaby Falkland Zephyrs, mind you, only 15c yd. Fine imported French ginghams 25c yd. II White Goods FORM ANY PART OF YOUR DRESS GOODS THOUGHT it will be economy for you to make a thorough investigation of our Spring equipment. Plain and fancy dress Swisses 15, 18, 20, 25, 35, 50c yd. Fancy Sheer White Fabrics 10, 12'2, 15, 18, 20, 25c yd. Fine White Dimities in baby plaids, stripes and checks 10, 12'2, 15, 18, 20, 25c yd. Mercerized Waistings at 10, 15, 20, 25, 35c yd. Plain and Fancy White Flaxous 15, 18, 20, 25, 30, 35c yd. Fine Persian Lawns 32 in. to 45 in 15c to 45c yd. Fine French Lawns, 45 in. wide 25c to 50c yd. Mercerized Batiste, 46 inch at 35c to 50c Sheer India Linonfc 5c to 35c yd. Fine Finished Long Cloth 10c to 25c yd. Elegant Finished Nainsooks 15c to 25c yd. Colored Flaxons In plain colors and fancy printed effects in pretty floral, stripes and figures. A 20c value 15c yd.

Galatea Wash Suitings Over 50 different styles plain colors and fancy stripe and checks. 18c quality only 15c yd; 20c quality

only

18c yd.

Wash Suitings Of Unusual Favor Linen finished Suitings, all colors at.... 15c and 18c yd. All-linen suitings, all colors at 30c and 39c yd. Fine satin finished 50c Poplins, all colors. Our price 39c Spring Percales WASH FABRICS FOR SERVICE. 15c Quadrigo Percals. over 75 styles, light and dark. Only I24c yd. Double Fold Percals, tan, light and dark colorings 7c yd. ALL DEPTS. SIMPLY TEEM WITH NEW SPRING INNOVATIONS. EASTER HOSIERY NOW AT ITS BEST. EASTER GLOVES AND NECKWEAR. EASTER HEADWEAR FOR LITTLE TOTS. EASTER LACES AND RIBBONS.

Choose Now. Choose While Assortments Are At Their Best

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