Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 34, Number 314, 19 September 1909 — Page 26

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PAGE EIGHT THE RICII3IOND PALLADIUM AND SUN-TELEGRAH, SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, lSKK).

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Fore words For Fall In Haberdashery.

.T Is an undoubted fact that

the influence of Parla on

American haberdashery la strong and the French stylet

may be considered aa having

an influence on the general

styles In high grade lines In America.

Therefore, it la well to give a -short resume of what the Parisian ahopa are

showing now.

' Charvet and Doucet, two of the smart

est shops on the Rue de la Palx may well be taken as an authorltlve source

ft Parisian styles and hence American

styles.

1 In neckwear they show principally

Htscots, four-ln-hands, . and wide entf

trine ' ties - in . changeable silks, bro

caded and plain, warp prints, moires and taffetas; also hand-knitted scarfs. The

iAscots or puff shapes promise grea

popularity . and are made from fla

squares. The four-ln-hands are abovC S ',4 inches wide and some extremely

beautiful effects are shown in brocaded

treatments. . One. exceptionally effective scheme which will be very fashionable

fcere this season, aa well as in Paris is . of mauve moire1 brocaded in rose derlgn. The combination of mauve and '.o e la going to occupy a prominent lace in the high class neckwear lines) ' hown In smart shops. Other fashionable effects are, the warp printed silks -lth effective i mlngllngs of black, roauve, yellow and rose. Orenadlne folded four-ln-hands woven In changeable gold and purple , and hangeable silks with polka dot effects re all good ' Parisian conceptions that

bave found their way. over here. Polka dots are going to be very prominent D is season and -from the many color chemes offered one strikes us as. unusually good. It Is a changeable silk lelth a tan shade for foundation sprinkled with small polka dots in blue. There U also a hand-knitted tie that is worth looking for and it will find so' much Cavor that it is not likely to cause you much search.; It Is woven in two colors, and. when tied four-in-hand fashion the snot is of the lighter shade while the. r ds are of the darker. It Is shown. In many beautiful two-tone combinations. These ties are reinforced by a piece of (ape where the tie surrounds the collac to obviate stretching. ' I While these styles emphasised above are indicative of the ultra fashions; in Paris as in every large American city, a great diversity of ideas are shown. In general there are two widths in ties that will be conspicuous as fashionable this season, the Ascot and four-ln-hands. The popularity of wing collars natumlly leada to the puffs or Ascots, whll the staunch adherents of the close front ollars will find that the four-ln-hand ties are weU defined In. fashion edicts; aot as a compromise, but as recognition f two very- popular and effective styles that deserve perpetuation. These four t-.-hands are tied in small knots anT fcave large flaring ends. Mauve, pome granite red, tans, medium shades of grown, gold and purple, and rose shadea 111 be most fashionable. Two new old tose shades that are very fashionable) a,-e echevln and jud. Heavy bias stripes will have much vogue, the most attractive of these are red 1 stripes on Una grounds. Persian and all over taffetas eommand mention. Then there are alse In good taste lace effects on plain ground , or in panels or bars. Blajk end white effects will find more favor s the season advances. ;. Many greens are shown and in these hunter, Nile, age, myrtle, sea and reseda are fash .enable. Cherry, light hello and grays are also well within the color schemes aecreed for the season. Time was, and not so long ago, when only the stiff bosom shirt was' regarded, as oorrect for winter wear. This rule owever, has been relaxed of late an young men now wear soft plaited boaon shirts, usually with colored stripes white linen backgrounds. Black, a color that has been slighted during the last few seasons, is now considered very "smart." To be sure, such established hades as pearl, steel and fog are as odlsh as ever. Abroad they are wearing shirts with light grounds and fine neat stripes, principally black. All hades of grays with fine stripes in either black, white or contrasting tone re also very well taken. French cuffs that became so popular the season Just past are still shown In some fine line, fcut It Is thought that they will recede somewhat until next spring than come Ttth a great bid for popularity in the summer of 1910. For this season there I to be a sharp conflict between the attached cuff and the - separable cuff to match the patterned collars which are surely arriving and will assert themselves with prominence before the holi'days. In this conflict a compromise is offered that promises well It Is having the cuffs, bosoms and collars of one pattern with the cuXCs attached and the

collars detachable. Some of these al

ready shown are striped patterns with

. the stripes on the collars running horizontally and on the shirts vertically. Others have stripes on the collars running vertically as well as on the shirts.

In shirt patterns, stripes are to be the predominating pattern effect. Hair line

stripes for the nonce are as fashion

able as the bolder designs. Besides

the black and white and black and gray effects referred to above, helios, drabs and delicate greens are looks, upon

with favor by Dame Fashl.n. Gray and pink stripes are especially smart. In figured designs, swivel effects, diamond, floral, triangle and other conventional and geometrical patterns are shown In good shops. The gray shades shown, are taupe, Parla gray. giu metal and elephant. Other good shades for the season are gold, peach and wistaria, a new shade of pink. COUVAB8. This season will offer several departures in collars besides the patterned collar spoken of above. There is to be a new inverted V shaped collar. It is a fold collar, but the opening of the inverted "V" Is to be wide and so little spring that the outer band set back is

close to the inner band in front. Then there Is to be a novelty from London.

This Is a collar that la double fold but has rounded tabs In the front on either side of the tie-room. It has a wide in

verted T cut away at the bottom to give the tie knot full play. A small

round tab wing collar will also be popu

lar with Ascot ties. In London they are wearing this collar with knitted scarfs, but this has not been noticeably attempted yet on this side. These are some of the newest ideas launched but it is improbable that any of them will supplant the close fold collar that has been so popular for the past two seasons. WATSTJOATS. Waist-oti have changed a little. They are made considerably longer, especially below the bottom button, where the distance has been increased by an Inch and a half, so that the point is quite four and a half Inches from the

last button. This necessltatea their being curved over the hips. The neck

opening is fairly high, and every waist

coat is collarless and single breasted

except the - dress vests. In color the

waistcoat 'should contrast harmoniously with the suits. The favored materials

are doeskin and moleskin In solid color effects and in fancy designs there are

embroidered worsteds, flannels and cassl-

meres and novelty textures with self

patterns and contrasting designs.

The patterns employed are chiefly of

floral and conventional designs in small effects. Stripes when shown are bold in contrasting tones from the foundation

cloth. OX.OVXS. In gloves gray and black glaces are most fashionable In sympathy with popularity of gray for outer garments and black In the shirtings. A novelty shade

shown this fan that la Yry well thought of is oak tan. and it has already found many votaries. Embroidered silk backs are given the preference over the plain stitched backs. For afternoon dress. English buck and chamois are considered very clever and a very smart novelty is the bleached buck which is buckskin glove bleached to white. Ox bloods and wines will be worn but are not so strong in the favor of fashion students as la previous s no sons XOSZXBT. The colors approved in hosiery for this season are the same as those decreed in neckwear, as it is still ordained that the hosiery match the cravat. Changeable accordion effects are the height of fashion and after these bold patterned stripes and Jacquarda. Clockings are for the present eclipsed by solid effects. Monotones, by the way, are very good form this fall. Some very effective Parisian Ideas are shown in woven stripes, knitted In hollow rib of heavy weisht alternating with the thinnest possible stripe of equal width, flecks of color being introduced In the thin strip. One of the handsomest combinations in

.thia pattern is old blue and black. An

other French novelty Is a fine lisle with woven stripes in silk. The silk stripe Is woven in a finely ribbed pattern, making it resemble a braid trimmed sock. Ashes of roses and old rose are one of the most effective combinations in this hose. Very effective also la a striped sock in a combination of stone green and olive, with a sprinkling of small conventional em.

broidery designs on the plain spaces between the woven stripes. Still another novelty is in ' two-tone and two-color

effects the interweaving of a silk with

a cotton to rorm the changeable twotone effect. Here the oat tern Is also In

stripes, three-quarters of an inch wide.

urown cotton forms the foundation

scheme while the green and white thread

are of silk. iUPMMM AYS KaJnraXCKXrB The greatest novelty in suspenders are those of knitted tricot or "maille aai." These are shown in a number of different forms and are woven in both plain and fancy colors. Thev have luthtF

mountings, metal slides and buckles.

solid color and color border handker

chiefs continue to be popular. The

Parisian fad Is for colored handfcsr.

chiefs. These are in delicate border stripes or all-over strines of

character with a heavy bold band of

three-quarters to an inch In width, making the entire hem. The small trinaa

are of a lighter shade In the same color

as the hem or else of a delicat

treating shade.

Novelties In Men's Evening Attire

i

T is noteworthy that the cape

overcoat is making a strong bid for favor, as. the evening dress overcoat for the winter. Borne few men of social standing were favorably enough in-

toward it to wear It the latter

It Is a sane step.

air"

dined

part of last season.

For grace of drape and patrician

the Inverness or cape overcoat has no peer. It Is the only outer overcoat distinctly formal. It never has and doubtless never will be overdone by excessive popularity. It has never been incorrect, for some well-dressed men have insistently stuck to It, mostly elderly

The thing that commends it most la fts roominess about the shoulders. The Chesterfield and the Paletot are very liable to cramp one's swallow-tall coat to the extent of bulging and mussing It, a difficulty you do not experience with the comfortable and sightly Inverness. It will have a strong revival this winter. . In the dress suits the most conspicuous variations from last season's styles are that the shirt front is not so generousrx revealed, both coat and waistcoat being brought further down. This Is a happy style and Is likely to stand awhile In that It obviates the bulging shirt. The coats are decidedly waisty. Quite a few show velvet collars, breast pockets and turn back or French cuffs. These, however, are features that are accepted more as concessions to individuality than by edict. Soutache braid on the trousers Is very

fashionable. The evening dress for this season Is to have the effect of sllmness and trimness. The shoulders should not be broad nor the trousers too loose. The waistcoat should fit snugly across the chest and arch over the hips. Those shown this season are unusually attractive. The opening is a modified "U" shape, with well proportioned lapels. They have distinctly narrower openings. Some white onea of crepe de chine have a very pleasing appearance. . There are also some of white pique that are quite proper, and some beautiful effects in white silk and satin are shown. For Tuxedo wear, fancy effects In dark colors with patterns of stripes and figures are novelties of the season. These garments have deep openings and are closed ' with three buttons of pearl or to match the general color effect of the garment. Most men have trouble In preventing the evening waistcoat from riding up and wrinkling over the chest below. There are many devices Intended to guard against this annoyance, such as pinning the waistcoat to the trouser top, using an elastic tape, and the like. The latest and most practical invention is a strip of buttonholes which Is sewn to the inside of the waistcoat and. of course, is hidden from view. These buttonholes are fastened by the wearer Into the buttons on the trousers and constitute a sort of pivot or anchorage that allows a man to bend and lounge at will without causing a crease or wrinkle across the waistcoat. The Idea is capital and certain to find wide favor.

The trousers should just clear the ankles and not flex over the Instep. In short, the correct evening suit should follow as faithfully as possible the contour of the figure. Vicuna Is a favored material. Evening shirts with limp bosoms are much worn. These bosoms are of fine French silks, some In modest self-brocades and embroidered effects. Others are shown with tiny tucking. Many ahow the French cuffs. On all these the bosoms and cuffs are of different materials than the body cloth, which is of heavier fabric,. for the purpose of preserving shapeliness to the dress coat. The high standing collar will occupy Its usual prominent position as the only correct collar for evening wear. The shape for fall which will be adopted has a very small poke effect. For Tuxedo wear the fold or wing collar will retain Its popularity. 1 Xnltted reefers for full dress wear are an attractive aa well as a comfortable addition to the wardrobe. These reefers are made of either silk or wool, are wide and long, and designed to wrap around the throat and cover the chest A great variety of colors Is shown, mostly In plain effects, though a fancy tltch in the weaving adds to its attractiveness. For all formal occasions the silk hat is now more often worn than the opera hat To be absolutely correct In the other accessories of evenlnsr wear, rare

to the correct dress chart reproduced on

tnis page.

Colymmtas Shirt' Go.

Hate

Son amufi smf

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Silk and Opera Hats

All Materials, Shapes and Shades

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The Best Exclusive Manufacturers of Chicago

Umbrellas, Gloves, Hose and Underwear

Correct Dress Chart For Men

D AY DRESS OCCASHW ovIrcLt WAKTC0AT TEOCSEBS' HAT SICFSD COLLAC CSAVAT GLOVES BOOTS ItWfOJtT DAY WEDDIWC cS? While Striped His Sift " ZJ? Pok J"i2li Wfcfce S34 CsM lAasi AFTERNOON CALI, r Frl Wmd Vim , TJZTZ , CmtZt " ANf MATINEE Cfccjerfcls Lfcwn Deck or Cheviot Broad Feb T? f0- 0-cr-o rWf T T ! Of 0-4 RECEPTION P,kto or Sift e Dwfc Grey Bud A hes - e KM Teas " ' M. Onrcoat A tucked Wmg Clowe MaKfe Crsrat WSiBl na Jacket M S. .B. Derby Stiff BCSt LCV.Cg wCo. T'fC sTn rU CehJ UaSs AHD Crer Faacp r..i l - mi. ZTw " or Baaoat HORNING WEAB Cf. rT W. Tie BcJl. H - VOvercoat Material Brows Attacked Norfolk , . IfOTOftllfG. 'jacket Fseey Flasotl Tweed Tweed FUnnd - Neckerchief Dumb) Ltmi Coif tsSS) COL. , Ca ... Dtep-pciot r - COCNTSY ChtoMrtUd rto fmhiH Ftoct Alpteo Soft CSa Self Attached. , , ,. r okT-i - - - Overcoat Collar , " - " - Freeh rjautli er S. B. PliA ATOW00 TEA. " "S- " 5 . " f Oseor Fsrl hM CM Use AJCD reOMENADf. F-ar7 HLhri. - Ort C.. F4.fc.ad killer TTSTtT tessi fft. umreat Attached - -. - EVENING DRESS ironKc wEoowc. r- JfE i wwwti. 252m Pf? T ALL, RECEPTION. o Coat Broad Fett W.3T fnis er jfe. ""TZS " FORMAL DUTNE J? - FigLa JSS JH AND THEATRE Ch.j.M JTEL (Jfa. lCSr J- - , er Sift ygcaU j , " r-TORMAL DINNtR. fat" (?ri BhrfPrL. StarrW ; J Whtf ,." .. CSwte. ZU 'JM" CLUB. STAC AMD IMmm as Jachet nJIr er Til-fur -m mm AT BOMS PINNEB . 0,( wkh FUia cs tlmkZfw m" ' T tat ' t"" Oaetaest ' STm' Alpies Asacsed " Sift Us Oewjeas fmm .Jjj, , '

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