Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 34, Number 314, 19 September 1909 — Page 10

f AGE TWO.

THE U1CIIMOND PALLADIUM AND BUOTCLEGBAU, SUXDAT, SEPTEMBER 10, 1909.

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By Mme SavanV Descriptions of even a small portly of th new coats, croaks and wraps for,' fall nd winter would nil this entire fashion edition,!; But In all (he multitudeof models two features stand out.promi nently. One Is that all coats axe longer' than even The ether Is that the shape.! , less "stove.pip model of last winter has gone down, before -an onruehlag armaV of ample, shapely models. The average length of the new sulf ooat Is 42 Inches or longer. That of the)', separate coat Is nearly If not quite to the bottom of a walking length aMrfc Many new models In separate coats have plaits below the waistline. But unlike! ' ' the coats of Louis XL. upon which tear! are modelled. '' these new- coats do not' -"t ouf instead they hang quite goft.1

and nat. ' This affect Is .heightened by

using oniy tne softest of linings, gad by very superior tailoring-. In some of the more elegant models the satin linings la coats stop at the waistline, and ttaa rest of the coat Is lined only with cblffon. There are so many complete gowns being worn In very soft fabrics that long separate coats' will play a mora Important role than for many years. The Increased width of tha skirt portions of coats Is due of course to the fact that dress skirts are all so much wider about the foot. The coat waistline la' again at the normal waistline and there la an Incseaslng tendency to shape both salt and separate coats so that although semi-fitting only as yet. they do outline the curves of the figure mors than' last season. In the coat showing- plaits, those In some cases are below the hips and In other models are below, tba waistline at

the back. . A popular 'model has a habit back cut In one with the coat sides to form big sblong- pocket pieces. Below these pockets tha ooat is plaited when tha fabric Is .light enough In weight and gathered when It Is heavier. , There are atngle breasted coats. and double breasted coats. , Some coats fasten In Russian blouse fashion far to one side. Practically alt coats "have collars and are closed fairly high m front The collar Is the chief decorative feature of this season's coat. There are many shawl collars, and some of these are of two materials fancifully combined. A new collar has a shawl roll in

front that looks especially Jaunty with the new Napoleonic hat. Buttons are large and decorative but 'not many are used on any one garment, and only when they look as If actually needed to .fasten something; either fronts, pockets, cuffs, or collar. 8oma of , the best Paris houses are using Jet buttons, but In America the Jet button erase got such headway last season they are not likely to be used save when com- : blned with something else; For example a big Jet center with cut steel outer edge Is new end handsome. You are sure to see in America many variations of the Florentine coat. This Is a platted garment, cut on semi-fitting lines, and tie of those wardrobe necessities "something that looks smart, but is yet practicable for the average purse and general wear." For those who are never quits Teady to take the newest thing, there are of course coats sad coats that are not plaited. The model A. like best In the non-plaited coata Is known as The Sienneae." which has the upper back shirred into s belt and the lower part perfectly plain. Ilk a habit-back. And there Is an uncommon Wumber of sensible details In the new models. For example not only are there collars m the coats such aa one might look for In coldwrather garments, but has not always

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For evening;, when they are also to be counted very chic, some show brilliantly colored linings of softest Liberty. j While, as always, plain cloths lead In the garments that are intended for allround wear, there Is a growing vogue for cloaklnga In the rough finish serges with, white hair effects, in two-color weaves. In napped fabrics, and in frlexa weavea. In strong contrast to these are covert cloaklngs which are In new light tints of beige as well aa In the darker slate shades. The newest covert coat model la loni; enough to cover the ankle-length "trotteur" dress, has a selfcolor lining of soft satin throughout and Is conservatively finished with '.a few buttons covered with the covert. There, is a new covert coat with a few plaits below the hips and at the sides that ia especially smart. This I a variation of the new Florentine modeL

fonmt bf Atiy means of late years." but theas collars are often adjustable so that they may be turned up-or turned down. V Motor coats for the comlqg winter are mads of quietly handsome materials. They ere conservative enough in -color to please the most fastidious taste. They are cut on roomy.1 enveloping lines, and have sleeves fhat protect the arms, and cannpt "balloon out" in every gust. The fronts lap . luxuriously. The collar are Ingeniously devised to stand high and close about the throat, or roll open at will of the wearer. Some of the best of the new motor coat models have the backs cut quite full., this fullness then being held in place by a wide strap fastened only at each end on the side-back seams. A good example of this model, like

many of the new coats, has huge "working" pockets. It Is shown in a tawny rust colored frtese with one of the new style fur linings, which reach only to the waistline. Another example that Is charming is In one of the new cloaklngs that have a partially "shot" effect, a frtese In this case that is a soft putty shade sifted through with dull light blue. This model has a high turned down collar of pervenche blue velvet, and a soft satin lining throughout In the tint of the collar. Tet another version, of this stunning motor, driving and travelling coat model Is in Scotch clan plaid with, full gilt buttons. Gay linings, as fruit reds. Jewel greens, etc.'. appear In some coats that are ail in one sombre tint on the outside. Two-toned linings are also much

ysed. and very pnrtty In effect they are, too. Velvet is used very much for collars and cuffs. Fur collars are .on many mid-winter coats Sometimes the fur collar is of a fluffy fur, while the lining is of another and flatter fur. But fur Is for the occasionlly-neded coat, and not for an. all-the-season-through garment. The growing vogue for black made Itself fei,. In mantles in the early summer when black soapls satin wraps that were little else but draped lonir capes, blossomed out at the Grand Prix, at Drag Day, etc. These mantles gathered eclat as the senpon went on. iH Trouvllle and other similar ultra elegant resorts. For early fall they are shown In numbers as one of the leadiog fancies for afternoon wtar. for carriage use.

FALL FASHIONS IN STREET FROCKS THAT WELL DRESSED WOMEN WILL ADOPT. Rene MamrieU.

vT every -turn of the wheel of

fashion there are those who raise a hue and cry anent the tyranny of the designers. They are represented as gleeful fiends devising weird conceits

for frail femininity, wtiereas they are coming more . and more to be at the mercy of the whims and caprice of the woman of fashion. It. is the successes

of one season that determine the styles of the following one. The deshjner plays

an expensive game of chance. If he go

a step' too far. as for instance when he

essayed the peach-basket hat and the Dagobert gown which are known no mojpe

except on the bargain counter, he dlscov

ers that women are ths real makers r

and breakers of style.

The advanced showing of tailored cos

tumes and street gowns is particularly

Indicative of this tendency. The e

treme developments of the late summer

styles have been absolutely rejected and the sack-like links of the Dagobert style has been modified to the snug fitting.

long walsted effects of the Middle Ages. Garments of every description follow closely these Moyen Age line, from the

gingham house dress, or linen costume

for the late "fall, to the evening and

dinner toilettes. In the most elaborate

evening gowns the style merges into Louis XV. and XVI. effects, with the overskirt and flowing drapery at the back or sides, which is really a revival of the

pannier. The sleeves are Invariably long.

with a slightly fuller tendency: pleats will predominate-In skirts and a few of the skirts show ths high belt. which proved so becoming to certain figures that : it has not been dropped, though It is rarely higher than two inches. In -the latest models.

The long roll collars that widen Into

a sailor In the back will doubtless be

among the most popular styles, although

the high standing collar Is one of the

new feature! of the fall auits. These

are seen on the chic street frocks that

are a modification of. the Russian blouse.

sometimes single, sometimes double breasted, with braided seams and with

out the belt, of course, to confine the

seml-fltting- waist. The dressier costumes' In this style, for reception wear

or catling, show a decided novelty In

the high standing collars of fur. mink, sable, lamb, finished with two six to

eight-inch sails, with the ever popular

fur turban the effect of this half military. Russian style will be wonderfully

dashing.

The shortest coat shown la forty laches, while the skirts are all walking

length. The brief revival of the long

skirt for street wear and In the sum

mer gowns of silk and lingerie has passed with the waning of summer, and

only the evening gowns will touch the

floor. For the most part, the tailored suits are quite without trimming. Buttons are used -more sparingly, though

they often give the distinctive toucb to

a costume. Soutache Is used almost exclusively when the suit Is braid trimmed, but thehome dressmaker will find that the wide flat braids, woven in an undulating design, or the silk laest braid of French origin, will be quite

as effective as the finer braids and re

quire less skill and time to apply to

either coats or dresses.

When trimming is used It Is massed on the under arm or side panela The

elongated waist effect Is often accent f

uated by bands of trimming at the "hip

line. r the large pocket naps. Trim

ming on tbe skirts Is confined to the

yoke, following the general style of the

coat design or put on so as to almost

cover the entire yoke.

The fabrica for the fall and winter

street garments are of infinite variety,

but as yet no one material can be said

to predominate. The popularity of broad

cloth has in no way 'abated, but there is a growing tendency toward the use df

rough effects, even in the house gowns, which is something of an innovation.

Homespuns. tweeds, diagonals and

worsted are all popular. The new colors are the soft, rich tones of brown, red

and purple, with a variety of alluring

names. Can you conjure up a mors rav

Ishing picture than a recent Importation

from Paris of velvet In the shade of

dark- Ved called Burgundy, heavily em

broidered in self color cord snd braid,

with broadtail fur forming a deep yoke.

a panel band at the side of the front

of the coat and used also to simulate undersleeves- This use of fur In the

same manner as any fabric is something

entirely new. Seal brown Is expected by some perspicacious prophets to attain the greatest popularity of the season. Dark blue will be worn in the earlier fall, while the new shades of purple, raisin and nutmeg, will share honours with the greens of yellow and silver cast, that suggested the names chicory and artichoke. Maltese gray Is now poassler and the red shades run from

the softer tones of carob to the American

beauty shade. Javotte. The woman who attempted to walk

with any degree of grace, much less to dance, in the clinging, swath-like Dtreetolre gowns of last season will rejoice

at the return of the pleated skirt with its f rou-rou of fluffiness about the feet. ,

Very little braiding Is seen on the new oat models..; On the dressier garments designed for carriage wear, there Is a good deal of embroidery chiefly of the t "Queue de rt- (rat-tall cord) type. On the gorgeous evening wraps the magniflcence In general Is attained by us-' ing splendid fabrics, and the beauty is

in lovely lines securing soft draped effects, rather than In applied decorations. The latter within the past few seasons reached their limit of possibilities. There is a very marked reaction toward richness of material and beauty of line, and away from trimming. The separate coat furore shows Itself even in suit coats also, by having coats of velvet In the exact color of dresses made of fine wools. Paquln Introduced this Idea first last season and It has slowly gathered headway fill now. several emodel houses have launched fall models with coat of a different fabric from the dress. As advanced samples of materials for spring of 1910 show, many fancy weavea matched to plain weaves both to-be used In one model, the fashion seems likely to last for some time, and gathers force as time goes on. " 1 Sleeves in all coats are to ths wrlst and cuffs In more or less fanciful deslgnj are upon many new models. In some' of the "high-style" coats that are designed very closely after- those of one or another historical period.' the sleeves are finished at the wrist with deep frills of lace such as the. men of the court and ether dandies of -those times wore. The same effect can be had in practical all-

The plain satin gowns so popular last year are entirely out and lace and chiffon over silk will compose most of the evening gowns. Velvet flowered chiffons In raised design or diaphanous gauses are being used over taffetas and the gold and silver tissue and aluminum fabrics. The old style brocades form the foundation for some . of the most elaborate Louis XV. toilettes, and changeable taffetas ara used to advantage In this style. An evening costume by Paquln In a changeable old blue end cerise taffeta Illustrates the Louis style which It Is believed will have full sway during the winter season. The gulmpe and sleeves are of the coarse .mesh silver net and lace, the aleeves half, length and the bodice decollete. The back of the bodice, which Is without seams, extends In a rounded point below the waist line, while the front la raised to an empire effect. The trimmings are of the taffeta snade Into shirred and pleated rosettes and heavy cording, which follow the hem of the full skirt. j Unless one may have an unlimited number of winter evening gowns, however. It Is wise to" be a little conserva

tive In their selection. The cuirass style.

having an unbroken line from bust to

knee and the Moyen. Age effects are sure to hold their own. Tbe skirts will be full with the fullness below the hip line, and the sleeves of . nine out of

every ten evening gowns Imported this fall are long, though finished at the wrist, not- extended ia pointa over the hand. '

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Pall 1909 - 1910

ARRIVING DAILY the r . iy new things for the Fall trade.

The beautJfcl variety of nsw novelties that we are now show. ing certainly will enhance the artistic eye of the Jewelry-tor-Ing people of this vicinity. Come In and see the display.

This fall you may want to sell some old furniture, clothing:, carpet or stove. Use Palladium want ads. Anything can be sold or exchanged in this way. It will only cost you a few pennies. ? Read the Little Want Satisfiers daily. It means money to you.

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