Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 31, Number 363, 19 March 1907 — Page 9

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Smarfcst""' Gowns anc Jewelry AVorn - Plain cn Elaborate Headdresses - IZX Long Cloak ' anc? 71 ' ' tn'e SKort Dalmatic,- Faskions Seen at tne "Opera Matinee.

The appearance. d grande tenne, which t fer othnr'wraatoflB' onr" social -life" offer. Is realiy'serbat Its climax and Tipotaeosls at the opera. - : - J '- " - " . Whether In Jhft .statla or boxes, the -r freihe of evening dress Is Imperative,-and tbe choicest of one's possessions of wardt obe . and jewel casket are brought forftt for.th occasion. ".' ,. ... Th .Terr 'eraborqte toilettes that Euro-, 'pean opera hons'es , djsplay. . are. scarcely erer seen orooted on this side of the Atlantic. -For. one thing, we, have no royalTflm Here stb-fKelp attendant train" of gfinrtlers tosfct the-paco in dress,' Jewels nd decora tVAis-.-; Ra. ifew eren - of omforemost families, possess the rare laces, th4. ejqul8l -sables,: the countless Jewels y that axe welL nigh., priceless,, and which hare "com down from generation to gen- . era t Ion In families abroad, and are a part nd parcel of the opera toilette In the jtfpera nouses, of the. older, civilization. Bat none the less,' the American woman does not by any means neglect the opportunity so afforded her for the display of her choicest possessions In the Jewelry nd sartorial line. The extreme of decolletage which Is necessary for formal appearance abroad. Is not followed here to any great extent. Indeed, the elderly , section of society, realising that neck and shoultiers'wftl no longer successfully encounter-the glare -of - thousands of electric lights nd the D.ltlless remans oi looserson, nave taKcn to either transparent yokes or else :" to, gnlmpes In Jeweled laces,-and rely upon deep collars of pearls, festoons of Jewels,' and as many-necklaces as the Jewel -caekat will afford to cover up the ravages of time and age. Since simplicity and an extreme of simplicity at that Is Insisted upon for the younger section, and especially for the debutante, Jewels are altogether taboo, with,-perhaps, the single exception of a string of pearls around the throat. While It must be a stngje-and a simple string, thee" Is no limit whatsoever jut en -4he amount of money that It may represent. One -debutante of. the season received from her , doting, grandf a ther on her - de-. but single, string of matched pearls," for which a check for $10,000 changed hands ere their purchase was completed.. There seema to be - almost - m -duel' between the modes of the First Empire and those 'of prlncesse persuasion where the opera toilet Is copceraed None the less, there Is no waning whatsoever" of the ogee of the gown .fashioned In two 'separate pieces, corsage and skirt, with a smart celnture to mark the point of separation between the. two. It. Is ajtogetner

) Ihe Art of

Correct an J Incorrect Usages ; of Tkis Fascinating Accessory - Varying Tastes Commend Various Scents - Some Recent Novelties.

The rt of perfume is one' that really floes sot receive anything like the amount of -attention la these- Utter days- thet It was used to centuries agone. Those days of I uxor j rrOned to the uttermost limit; the limes that preceded the fall of Home saw perfumes advanced to what was almost fetich. Thecraze for distinctive odor and Individual cents wa ope of the distinguishing features of theday. and one thatbids fair to be revlveo;-4. all Its glory ere . the present centaTy shall have run Its course. While we tfgT33Xt .""aide of the water have never jmtr thooeht of rivaling the French masters of the art of perfume, there are some domestic makes of scents that are -really equal to, if they do not surpass, the best of the foreign makes.. One of- thos homemakers has put before a fastidious public a variety of perfumes in which " the flower to which It ewes Its scent Is confined whole In the bottle. For. example, a violet perfnme ha two oc-lhree long-stemmed Marie I-cj!!se or sgglaa violets floating tivthe biiwle In a Irnf their -natural colors, the alcohol of the perfume or extract acting as a preservative for the flower. Moss rosebuds, too, Hlles-of-the-valley, panlies,: narcissus and other fragrant blooms re so fancifully imprisoned, and It Is said that their odor cliags to the empty bottle long after the extract has been used up. . , In the olden times, when the art of sanitation was not eren dreamed of. the offensive odors that were freely floating In the air everywhere made necessary the carrying of perfume boxes or pounce boxes, as they were called. These were usually of precious metal. Inlaid, enameled or otherwise decorated by the Jewtier's art. and with pierced holes In the rover whence was omitted the perfume nithlnAbout the same time, too, anuff was Introduced, aod was originally . indulged In for the same reason as necessitated in pounce box. . Perfumed snuff was

a matter of Individual preference which ir selected. -. ' ' '' " ' ' The inatter of headdress Ts one that .becomes dally'more Importing as the sea

son goes on. While there is little, If any,. danger, that we shall . rever.t to the. hideous disfigurements that passed under this Title In " the days when .the .modes, .of the First Empire were" regnant, tlr the head-. dresses 'that have' been Introduced this season,, from . Paris are . decidedly more prominent than -those -worn last season. Large ostrich and paradise plumes, huge marabouts rising, from -a cluster of artificial rdses, -wreaths of flowers 'from whlofa -m spajiadise.' plume -springs abruptly to wave Its length toward, the ba,ck of the hair,, any and -all of those are favored for evening .wear far more than are the. jeweled coronets and tiaras of. seasons agone. Not but what one sees Jeweled .rplecea nd sprays for the coiffure, but they' are not so often worn as they used to be, even by women whose Jewel boxes contain several specimens of those costly triumphs of.the .Jeweler's art. " -'It Is quite "the correct tlvrng".to"wear one's evening ; wrap' until ,seated,: andj so lts.selectlon. Is a matter of Tbth""taVte'and purse.. For those to whom the. question of . spens.e.1s; a; zaatteroS ftidlfference there are exquisite garments shown In Russian sable j and in .chinchilla, ' ermlnellneH. thep beautiful - wraps are altogethers of ermine the,, lining usually, of .painted wchlf,fon, and fastened with jeweled "clasps. In lieu of buttons. .. .. ' The long jjloak that covers up the. toilet "comp!etelyls being' pushed aslde ln favor of the short dalmatic. Some . exquisite ' examples of this - are " shown ' In ': ermine, .with the most fascinating hoods over the shoulders, those to be drawn on over the head when emerging'5 into the night air. Sleeves to -those-are fashioned upon -the cape or dolman , order, and the arm size oftentimes .extends .down to the waistline, tljecape or. dolman sleeve filling It id completely." That "those are easy to get into and out of without assistance is not. by any means the least of their charms, added to whlch-there la none of that disguising bundling up of the figure which the long and loose cloak of the burnous order effects. - '.-- The gloves that elegantes are ordering for opera wear are far and away the .most elaborate things : tbati have been shown at the glove counters for many a long day. The fancy Is for ale tints of suede, not glace, and those -are jeweled, embroidered and lace-trlmmed to an extent never before even thought of. -Fertume. used by the elegantes of both sexes, and collectors of the present day set great store by the : pounce boxes and - snuff boxes of centuries ago, whence perfumes In a powdered form found tbefr first general acceptance, and foreshadowed the sachet powder that Is so freely nsed today.'. : - Tastes vary la perfumes, as In other features of fashion; and the advent of a new extract, or combination of extracts, is always welcomed. "'"""'' The effort to procure Individual 'hnd distinctive perfumes, scents and odors that' shall be as definitely expensive of" one's personality as are one's clothes, leads many of the great ladies "of Europe' to extravagant lengths. 'v Queen Alexandra of England has ever since her first coming to that country of fogs and fine complexions adhered to the plain lavender water. The South of England grow lavender of a peculiar fragrance such as does not seem to flourish elsewhere,' not even along the sunny slopes -of the Riviera, where flowers of all sorts and kinds grow in profusion and reach their highest point of perfection. This lavender water la distilled especially for Her Majesty, one family consisting of a clergyman's widow and her two daughters, making a comfortable Income from this one Item. They have a lavender garden, their own little distillery, bottling plant and all; and since they are not at liberty to accept orders from anyone else. Her Majesty has the pleasure of knowing that no one else can duplicate her especial perfume. Following an old recipe in their family, the makers put up one kind for the bath, one with some other fragrant herbs Incorporated to be used especially as a tonic sponge bath and another general perfume. Then there are bags and sachets galore for the wardrobe and linen rooms; and each and every one of those Is put up in handsDun and hand woven linen covers, with the royal monopram embroidered in lavender linen threads; and those

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are sent annually after the lavender harvest to be refilled. The Empress Dowager of Russia, a sister of Queen Alexandra, by the way, indulges a fancy for heavy perfumes of all sorts.' Chypre (pronounced sheep's, with the peculiar slurring of the "r" to the preceding syllable characteristic of the French) Is one of her favorites. This is distilled from the southern cedar, and has a heavy, lingering odor. In former days, .when smoking among the ladles of the court was not frowned upon as It Is by. the present" Czarina, it was necessary v to use a penetrating and a somewhat heavy perfume In order to overcome the omnipresent fumes of tobacco. This same perfume Is In nigh favor with many of. the nations of Central Europe, and Is at its very best In an extract made by the nuns of a little convent on the Pyrennenn borders of France. In order to obtain this particular make one has to be. recommended or Introduced to the convent by someone or another of their clients; anl orders for the amount desired have to be placed In the spring for autuinn delivery. , The nuus make only as much as they hftve orders for, and the resulting gain is devoted to the maintenance of a certain portion of their famous school. A certain number of young girls of good family, but limited means, are taken -into the school and educated with the daughters of prominent and wealthy families. None but the mother superior, herself Is aware of the identity of those "assisted scholars," as they are known; and as the convent prescribes a uniform for all of Its. pupils, and no Jewelry or knlckknacks is' permitted within Its walls, the secret Is easily kept. There is one little point in the usage of French extracts that Is scarcely ever, If "at all,- observed over here, and that Is that the extract is so powerful, so concentrated, that Its. use raw as It comes from .the bottle oftentimes offensive to a fastidious taste.' The French know well the secret " of -their"; use, and a Frenchwoman would. not. think of dabbing or spraying perfnme "'over herself just before leaving the house or.. her boudoir, as . Is the; favorite; American ay', of '.doing. , , . ... - The ' correct fashion of ,' using French extracts is to-let one afngie-1 drOp-'f all onthe onoucholr or whatever el9e. is tabe perfumed and then tbtsIs wave In- the '..air so. that, a current goes through It and. the T scent 'la ' dissipated throughout the article. Then -Its delicacy and haunting s fragrance assert themselves, the heavy odor that clings to the scent on its firs emergence from the bottle becomes toned down and there is a more lasting quality of the perfume evident and appreciated. ...... A piece of cotton wool, preferably the sterilized and a sceptic kind that may be purchased at any druggist's may , be 41b, erany spnnKiea wun any perfume eelected, and when tied Ja a sheer handkerchief.' placed In one's wardrobe, hat," glove or mouchoir boxes andthe perfume, so used "will cling to every article' with which it comes in contact. Another and similar Idea makes use of a piece of porous pumice stone, which absorbs extract greedily. This may be tied up in a piece of silk and laid away among one's blouses and lingerie, and just the faintlest. but. at -the same time, a definite odor will declare itself for quite some time. Sachet powders are growing in use and ravor every day. One smart Jiew York shop, which Is but a branch of a well-known Paris honse, makes a specialty of making up sachets for every possible purpose. There are little ones that are tacked flat Into a hat lining; flatter onea go Into the armholes of a waist or blouse; envelope-shape affairs that are placed inside of gloves and folded mouchoirs. and large pads that occupy the bottom of the bureau and chiffonier drawers, trunk trays and the like. And thev are all made with , washable covers, so that the extreme of daintiness may be observed. .

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Higk 'NeckeJ Princesse Gowns 'Worn. Wirlle the matrons of society are much addicted? to the extreme of decolletage. the-; younger section, and especially the debutantes, are modestly favoring the lace yoke, : unlined. , and finished with a transparent collar. Such is the mode followed in a 'frock of Parisian origin,' in which lace of Irish -make. Brussels net edged with point, d'alencon, and white chiffon velvet- are all cleverly combined. The yoke In this. Instance Is of the detachable " kind, ' so that the ' decollete mode may be followed when desired. A closely fitting princess line is defined in the body portion. ' this being la a small and fine Irish "crochet, over "chiffon;' a-OanterDury bell applique In the same lace applied to form a separate pattern. This part Is so fashioned that It defines the princesse portion for body, waist and hips, stopping when once the curve of the hip Is passed, and being continued in two-side- panels down either, edge of the front and .back center, respectively. The broad space so formed Is filled in with a series of flounces In silk Brussels net, each flounce edged with real point d'alencon lace, and making for an extreme of fulness at the feet. The back panel is managed in the ehortwaisted effect, springing from the center seams about half a finger's length above the waistline, and so preserving the natural curves of the figure In the silhouette. - Large appliques in embroidered velvet edged with lace are somewhat after a ' sunflower design," and. in various sizes, decorate-the bodice and skirt la panel effect.

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Spangles and Real Laces. The short-walsted effect that the. elegantes in,, dress are so strenuously insisting 'upon in all of the later modes la daintily expressed In the model of the picture.: Just a hint, a : suggestion of the modes of the First Empire Is apparent in this exquisite model. In which black tulline is liberally bespangled and combined with" real black chantUly lace. The extreme vogue of bib and tucker effects is shown in the corsage part, in which a collar and yoke In fine plllowmade Cluny Is -tucked Inside a tixker of tucked white chiffon, the spangled tuUlne brought up over this with a narrow binding of bias velvet, which serve to mark more emphatically-the contrast of both color and material. The akirt is brought 'up in that loose line around and above the waist that' the fashions of the First Empire demanded, only the slenderest of figures being able to withstand the extremely trying effect of the shortened waistline. It takes a slender hip as well as a' slender waist to carry this mode to advantage ; and an -erect carriage, la which the head, is held high, the chest well -out and , the abdomen In the correct physiological position. Is the necessary accompaniment of this style. The girl who "stands so straight that she almost falls backward" would better firmly forswear adherence to the modes of this period, for they, will only serve to bring into prominence the painful defects, of her carriage and figure. Soft white moire eels tore and bracelet on the sleeve make for a pretty contrast, and the prevalent fashion of weightlag the hem of a gown wltb both chiffon and velvet is followed with excellent . results.

1 Fortlie' Well Dressed Woman,

i .... , .....' . '. : " .'. .' " Hints and Items tkat a w Finiaked Winter Fur and feather piece are at their: newest and best when they iollowthe cape or the shawl shapes.'- Those that throw" scarfs that were" alt1 ad much a, la mode last" year re totally discredited, ttrs jeeason. For ono thing' their reprodroctln In cheap and Imitation pelts was' altogether too easy a task ror tne manufacturer not to take' advantage of, and. 'the pieces that commanded a high price In ermine and sables, were reproduced In dyed i cat .and rat furs to a semblance of the Expensive originals. Hence, the elegantes this season re trying shapes -and designs -whose workmanship-r.vlll "lavolve an. amount of , labor that the maker. -of. cheap and Imitation fur cannot afford to tarn out. .- - - Tle care of tne irk pettlcent is a little Item that the average " woman does not understand. One hears on all sides bow utterly unreliable even the most expensive silk skirt U liable to prove In wear; but those who make that complaint are oftenest the very ones who never take any latelllgent care of sach It is: not so much the care as the Intelligence that directs It that counts la the preservation of the garment." " A silk skirt, be It a petticoat or adrop skirt, must be thoroughly broshrJ, In the open air after every wearing. There Is nothing that cuts silk, no matter what its quality, so quickly as dust or grime. The sharp particles of dust " and aanl grind their way quickly through the silk and a silt or a hole Is the consequence. There are several silks, even among the less expensive kinds, such eeaediv orkedo, etc.. whose wearing qualities i guaranteed but with this lso, that Intelligent care be taken of the garment.' After the brushing, and It Is "beat done with a soft bristle clothe brush rather than a hard and harsh whisk. broom.. if there be med spots or evidences of soli or stain dilute grain alcohol never the wood variety with an equal amount of water If the stain be a bad one; or with three times the amouat of water If Just for ordinary - cleansing, and sponge the skirt all over with this. Contrary, to the general opinion and usage, -r freshening purpose ammonia should never be used on silk, as the alkali wilt assuredly weaken the vegetable fibre and aid la Its early destruction. The Dress SatelA Is an Item that 1 all to woefully neglected by the average ' dressmaker on this side of the Atlantic. Far otherwise" Is It In 'Paris and ton-' don. where " the number and variety of those attached alda to daintiness are far in excess of those seen here. So many elderly women perspire freely in the back and along the arms - that mv L nlrLjLns.rr used, abroad. Just to obviate the rstmZ- . !m those point Light as gossamer, the protect i us ittti-r pieces. are tacked down the back of, the waist, and " in the elbow crease of the. leeves, as well as in the more - usual arms'.xe. Even good dressmakers here slight the sewing in of the dress shield. To be accurately and acceptably applied for where It Is needed at all it -is .required to stay firmly In place without chance of crumbling up " Into an tneffectaei . bail under the arm. and adding; to the chances of what It la supposed to preveat free stitching on the outside and three on the sleeve side of the .shield are necessary. : Several brands of shields en : chs market Indicate the sewing point by little stars, and another brand shews light tittle dip la the shield at Jus those points. Te finish off the thread

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Mike Pci-fcctionn4 th Toilette, when wing such In ja waist always wlnA a French knot' around the needle

draw : the thread ' firmly through. Then there fa so rear of rslippteg or ripping. ": ;t Velvet ekapcsaxMaek heplesies, re the order of the day for a It eeremonlous appearance. In cities sad towns where dustf- cover? rvexylblne; several ., times a day the care of the hat and Its plume become a, matter -of moment. It were well to go' to a man's batter and procure. one of tooser sott .little brushes that are made especially for hats. If yon have .not already got one. Thi should be kept for.fcats alpne, and poj.jissd for other . cleansing purposes . When every bit of dust has been flicked 'out with this brush and the plumes wtll need It Just as much' the hat go over the whole with a piece of moornlnar: crape; " ' '" When the plumes havs lost' their enrt albeit uncurled, plume . at among - the very latest fancies from "Parts either iar the bat where the draft from the hot air furnace will reach the plumes, or else go to the kitchen fire,, and. throwing handful of salt on the top of the clear red coals, shake the hat and plume briskly above thi until the flues begin to curt under sort!. -:- '. . Crossed srsss .are; finding a renewal of favor In the latest models. Crossing from the ehoulders in-the front and back of the waist, they are highly effective, -and several uses ere -f oettd-fse -. . them on s, skirt, eitner circular, fered of . paneled. - ; . m - Fnselnntlnsx Little Overs Heed. - - ' " " " ' The. younger section,, of - society bats taken ;up the matter of eyenfae fcsodg with "enthusiasm, a"nd tbe" best shops are bowing a bewildering. Variety of those effect! re ' lltUe - possessions ' ta ' Ceontless materials and designer ' '-"'- That there la" sotoetMng especially fascinating about the covering- for the head Is conjunction with the evening ' wrap oooe of the daughter of Eve "will deny. Front Jtbe woolen affairs that were -l fasrV fnatora so long mo -sad doubtless they fulfilled-their . kUsIon -ls- taetr -day and time down to the exquisitely dainty. af- . fair that well merit that same nam today, womankind" has always sppreda X 'their effectiveness, and the men nave not fteen 'aiow to acknowledge their charm too. - ' - i; 0 ' . - The dainty tittle exemplar of all r 1 Is one that can be readily repeated by any . girl at all gifted with good, tnste end a, trifle of skin with tbe needle. Tbe foundation of pale plaJf Chine, silk Is la two 'pieces, that for the hood being an exact

one side" Absorateiy cat 'and tralght atm " iiflfil Tne 'cape part Is merely pllsse piece of Ut silk. overUM with chiffon, sna tsM turn overlaid with' s dotted Brnssels net. The hood pert has the' rounded side wttn a casing through which a running string to .drawn, the cape being attached to tne straight tine. White chiffon Is shirred over this to hang In loose baggy folds, a tacking stitch here and there confining Its looseness. .The front-Is "trimmed with a 'double pHsse of chiffon next the face, then a row of ribbon edge set and the chiffon again ever tola, this time with tntfUonae attached to ' tbe edge. Largs streamers of pale pink velvet ribbon serve to tie It st the chin snd add to the to enarm of the vnoie. ;