Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 31, Number 314, 9 December 1906 — Page 7

'A X 'S i SI The Extreme of Luxury Prevails -Velvets, Furs, Laces -Long and Loose Designs Mostly Fa vored - Cravats, Sashes and Pendant Trimmings-Velvets Various ly Employed. To tbe woman of fashion tbe question L carriage and evening wraps la an Im rant An at this Innrtnre. rhe most exquisite creations are dally . I riving at tbe Custom-house, there to re their value appraised, and the ensor duty collected by our Uncle Sam, who looses havy tax upon the elegantes for 5yir devotion to foreign, rather than hne-made. fashions. But was there ever I woman made, and especially in this entleth century of civilization, to whom s whisper "An imported model, .da me, just over from Paris, would !: immediately kindle her interest, and aken a longing, if not a determination possess that very garment, and no ier. while those entrancing models are for very wealthy only, there are some ex lent copies turned out in our own workms here whose charms are scarce a ilt behind those of the Parisian arte. The specialty shops are coming t boldly, and where they once npon a le stuck stoutly to tbe statement that of their stock was of French origin, ty paid, today they are announcing 1 that without a vestige of apology, her that . the best of their offerings products of their own workrooms, 'he American woman is a law unto herf. where fashions are concerned; and igners are beginning to take this fact o consideration In the making and inching of new styles. While she will t go to the extremes of styles that capate the French woman's fancy, on the ier hand, neither will she countenance dowdy air that characterises so many even the best dressed women of the Itlsh aristocracy. 'here a measure of economy must be lotained in tbe wardrobe, a clever setlos. may be made whereby the carie vrrap will do duty for evening colons as well. Fashion favors light and Icate tints almost to the exclusion of more somber colorings that And a ee upon the current color card. White, rever. does not meet with the same ree of acceptance that It has found so many seasons; and. compared with novel colorings, it does seem a trifle ie and passe, no matter how elaborateIt may be, adorned. ; -he oyster tones are far and away most beautiful that have presented mselves, and tbe range of tints Is one t lends Itself roost delightfully to a f wide latitude in trimmings. From early white, through grays that are a faint suggestion of this somber . and Into a brownish yellow shade t is extremely new and smart, the ter tones take the favored fur and tin- ( trimmings to a charm. wg and loose are tbe lines that rharrlse the best modes. It Is tbe wrap t comes almost. If not entirely, to tbe i of the gown that Is considered the rtest. and In tbe case of evening ps tbe back must be so modeled that overs the little deml-tralne, which Is of tbe features of tbe later modes In ling gowns. i lere Is really no especial period or e that is followed to tbe exclusion ill others. Charming coats are built i Empire lines that are really a boon the women who must consider tbe iter of expense, for when chosen In Jolorlng that best accords with her

US' .-:K!!4 wardrobe and complexion, such designs may be made to do duty for several occasions. Tbe sbort-waisted body, the long and flowing skirts, the sleeves manipulated after a thousand and one different effects, alt of those Items afford a field for the trimmer that the latter is not slow to take advantage of. Some wraps of Empire persuasion have the characteristic short body part done in fur and the balance of the coat in some pale tinted cloth or satin that beet accords with the furry pelt. For example, a charming one seen the other day at an exclusive Importer's has tbe body part in chinchilla, the stripes that come on the back of the little animal deftly handled to form a bias pattern. Hanging loose after a bolero fashion, the coat skirts start below this at the bust line, one of the new satin cloths they are a regular satin weave on the face and a broadcloth of high luster on the back in a cold tint of pale bine being used. The sleeve was a cape top of the chinchilla, matching the bolero in shape and size. and topped a loose cape affair of the cloth that came but a trifle below tbe elbow. Over nil of the fur part was laid a most elaborate embroidery in old sliver bullion braid, the design of a very open character, so that the charms of the fur were fully seen, and this same old embroidery It had decidedly an ecclesiastical air formed a deep border all around the hem of the coat and covered the cloth cape sleeve as well. And, by the way, quite sometime ago this column called attention to the fact that ecclesiastical furnishings would prove a source of lijfepiratlon to many a designer If carefully sought out. We hare seen bow the chasuble, the stole, the altar vestments of the incense boys and others have found reproduction In many guises, and there Is not a shadow of a doubt but that this same ecclesiastical suggestion will find Itself much further developed as the season rolls around. A judicious touch of tinsel is quite a fascinating feature- of the trimming scheme of many a smart design. One of its most bewitching expressions is in old laces, where the pattern of the lace is worked over with fine silver threads. Do not expect to attain Just -the correct effect with -the cheap silver tinsel threads that are offered; they all of them tarnish quickly, and not only blacken themselves, bot everything they come id contact with. The career of the garment so adorned i? Is a brief, but an eminently unsatisfac tory, one. Tbe worklnjr of laces with those bullion threads for that were the better name for them than tinsel, which suggests something cheap and of imitation quality will prove one of tbe most attractive. and at tbe same time one of tae most economical, pieces of 'p!ck-up" work for tnc woman of fashion. On such wraps as this where lace appears the price Is well up In tbe hundreds of dollars: and the well-versed saleswoman will explain that the handwork npon the lace alone Is worth almost tbe price asked for the en ure garment. . Another smart feature Is tbe working of some of the less expensive laces with heavy strands of soft silk. Here the rope silk will not answer, and expert workers prefer to take six or eight, or even a dozen, strands of loosely twisted filo silk with which to follow the design of tbe lace. Weil podded all of those embroideries must be. so that the pattern stands out In bold relief against a background that Is merely a suggestion of a foundation for the rich ctn'oroideriea. But to return to the wraps. There are decided reminiscences of tbe dolman

T 4 . & r V effect to be seen in many of the most attractive. Sleeves that start almost at the hem of the garment and ripple their way to tbe shoulder line are by no means uncommon; and the armslze is a perfectly huge opening in all of tbe later designs. Kimono sleeves, sling sleeves, cape sleeves, dolman sleeves, are some of the designations that bring vividly to the mind's eye the class of arm coverings that prevail In tbe best modes. Velvet really holds sway to an extent that no other material even shares faintly in. Entire wraps of chiffon velvet, velours faconne, moire, peklne and countless other variations really lead the mode; and In all of them It is tbe delicate tints and half tints that are to be preferred. Heavy faille, moire and ottoman silks are lavishly trimmed with velvet; and cravats, sashes and other swaying and pendant trimmings find their best expression in this softly luxurious pile. Tbe fur-lined coats that have been so popular for several seasons now make very serviceable evening coats, when the outer covering is of a light tone. One sees large capes, almost of military plainness, mnde up In all sorts of materials and lined with either a quilted satin a recent revival from other days or else with some serviceable and not too expensive fur. For real comfort and warmth, for convenience In putting -n and off. andj for looks as well, those capes are really one of the best Investments that a limited dress allowance can Indulge In. m The Charms of Irish Crochet. The vogue of the all-lace coat Is one of the most conspicuous features of the season's fashions, a mode, by the way, that Is Intended for the wealthy woman, the one to whom leadership In fashion Is the goal to be aimed for at any cost. Long and loose lines are those preferred, both for the tall and well-formed woman, as well as for her more petite sister ; while those that suggest, even vaguely, the outlines of the Empire modes are in tbe very forefront of the fashionable procession. The charming model depicted herewith is one f the most successful of those charmingly expensive fads. The foundation is an all band-wrought Irish, crochet, each motif fashioned separately, tacked to its place on tbe stiffened calico foundation that makes tbe sbape of the I garment ; and when all have been placed In accordance with the design those fascinating little "bride's" or bridge stitches are used to connect the whole. In the model pictured there Is a frame all around In the smallest and finest of baby crochet, and on this tbe large and bold motifs are posed scantily. The body of the coat, on the contrary, shows those placed close together, and the sleeve, with its circular pendant cuff, matches tbe body of the coat in construction. A smart feature is the hlsh standing collar of tae Napoleon order, well boned, and setting closely to tbe throat, a most becoming adjunct, by the way. Tbe entire coat Is lined with a double chiffon of palest yellow tint, and the l!nInz Is one of those gold tissue weaves, with a pompadour design In raised velvet bouquets of flowers scattered at far Intervals over tbe golden tissue. As representative of tbe delightful effects that csn be produced when tbe matter of expense U not a consideration, this charming wrap will stand for one of the best models of artistic dress.

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m 4 . irm SET!

SsS' 1

Some Straws that Show How Fashion s

Winds Doth Blow.

Tbe Etiquette of Cards Is a very complicated one for. some women. Just how few or bow many cards to leave when calling npon new acquaintances is more or less of a problem. There U always the fear that the new acquaintance may know more of tbe very latest wrinkles In this direction than the caller does, and that the latter, her social training and knowledge, to say nothing of her social position, may be judged by her proficiency or delinqulncy in the matter of cartes de visit e. The other day such an emergency arose. Tbey had rung the bell, the butler was approaching and the question had to be settled at once. "Oh, Just hand In a whole lot of cards, TIs the safest way, after all. said the older of the two, an old campaigner after social honors, by the way. "But why?" queried tbe other In a hurried whisper, uader her breath.

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w. . - M If tv'" P Her companion dived deep down Into ber card case and fetched up a full handful, which were passed to the butler, with the murmured regret that Mrs. So-and-so was not at home. Once down tbe steps the elder campaigner exclaimed: "Wei!, if yoa don't hand la enough tbey think at once that 3'on do not know enongb. or that yon are not well posted as to what Is correct, or that you are parsimonious, and have so little occasion for the nse of cards that you hate to let a single one go. But when yon band In a number they think at once that, even though you came on foot and delivered the cards yourself instead of by your liveried footman If you possess such a combined treasure and worry you know " more than - they do about the game, and that this is some new style that they bave heard nothing abont. and your social stock roes up according:. - Take my advice, and when von

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v. Nt i -v. yiMMT .- . -i- -i - 2.- "..'" I .lPf. k r- ? ... : i-, "i; - x ; , ; ? : Xr':IxXV -, . - . v- '.3' ' i '.r.'..:.;.v' are not, quite sure of anything, go to tbe .' extreme of liberality rather than tbe other thing. It will always pay In the end." Aod it does! Tbe Rtdlnar Schools welcome the approach of bad weather. The worse the weather, the better the attendance at the schools. When It is absolutely impossible to ride out of doors the tanbark Is crowded, and after an hour or so In the ring many of the riders gather together In the gallery and discuss the mauy topics of interest to women In general and equestrians in particular. "What do you think of this fashion of cross saddle?" asked one pretty blond with pink cheeks and appealing gray eyes, addressing ber remark to nobody In particular. I think It Is simply horrid and vulgar. " rejoined the stout woman, whom they all snubbed, but who was so glad to seise even a general retnnrk as an oar with which to get Into the swim of the conversation. This was ber first opportunity to gain even a passing semblance of recognition, and she seised it eagerly. "I think that no really womanly woman would take a man's saddle and attempt to ride In that bold way. Why, It take away all the romance of riding. Why, Jnst think that if you get thrown off ohl you need not smile that way. some very good riders get thrown off sor -times, and I've even bad a fall or two myself there is no opportunity at nil for a beautiful and thrilling rescue, and just think of having to be helped to your feet, and. perhaps, to walk home In a patr of trousers. Oh! I wouldn't even think of It. 'TIs Immodest, In my opinion!' And the stout lady gave an imitation of a kitten with a chill, which she fondly Imagined was a virtuous shudder. "Well. I don't know," said the bachelor girl. "Heally. at first glance it seems far more logical to ride with a cross saddle that seta well, rather than all humped, up in a one-sided lump the way that most of ns do. You see," she continual, meditatively, as though discussing th matter with herself for the first time, "yoo really get better control of ihe horse, to say nothing of a better and mora even balance of your own body. "I should think the horso would like it better, too," she added, "since he does not bave to carry the weight sll on one side and some of us are not tittle prise packages, either, where weight Is concerned), and so a long run Is made easier for blm. Yes. Indeed. I think that there Is a great deal to be said In favor f tae cross saddle, end I'm going to try It myself some morning early when there are not many people around the ring. I don't think that It Is a single bit linmodet; not at all. And f shouldn't wonder If. after ail. I might really come to like it better than tie present style. "Ob. yes. we all know that," sail the girl In the corduroy habit, with one of those little "postage stamp caps of the same skewered to ber fluffy locks. "Bat what we want to know is If you are ;oing to ride that way. and If any really nice women are dolg It? j "Well, just look at tboe kiddies down j there In the ring." she rejoined. We all 1 of us know thtlr mothers, or most of them, at any rate. They are certaluly a briiliant and convincing argument for their way of riding. And I'm sure no one wou'd even dream of railing those dear youngsters immodest; not even for a moment. "With the kiddles It is different. They are young, their mnseies are supple aud adaptable, and as tbey begin with a small pony, suited to their size, the limbs readily accommodate themselves to tbe situation, and acquire the length necessary to good horsemanship under such conditions. "You know a man has always a nju-b greater length of limb from hip to knee than a woman has. eves though the two may stand at about tbe same height when on the ground. As for me. I wa np that although I tried the cross-auddle enthusiastically, and reluctantly came to the conclusion that It was not for me. I am glad that the side-saddle is not to be

- banished altogether, and that there will still be a 'gallery' to applaud tuy little stunts, and to consider that a woman looks best, after all. In the seat we bave been accustomed to seeing her lu for so long." A Mere Mas announced a ' discovery tbe other day. He said that he observed that nine out of every ten women who clung to elbow sleeves sud long gloves during the cold westber did not keep their bands In tbe gloves while they carry muffs. "Well, why should wet" promptly asked a middle-aged woman at the same table. "With one's hands In a wellpadded muff the bands are bound to get I unduly warm, especially if one is walk ing, ana in a very snort nine move same gloves are worn out. Now. there la no need to wear out the fingers sod palms of the gloves too soon, more especially when each patr of those gloves represent an Investment of S3. 60, and that la more than double the price of the ordinary pair of walking gloves. I tell you. when all of those Increased costs bave to come out of pocket-money tbst is not by any means , Increased In proportion. It behooves the smart woman to Invent a trick or two like that to even op the savings." And tbe mere man agreed. Spealtlasr of Gloves, there ere some ery attractive line cashmere gloves on sale in all of tbe leading colors to match the winter gowns, and In lengths to come well up abovo the elbow for those mho follow fashion la all of the extremes. Tinted silk linings, too. are another cold weather feature at the glora counter, this lining being of the finely woven Jersey kind, with just about ss much stretch and give to It as a good kid presents. Extra lengths are purchased la these, and the tops rolled back for a trifle to display the colored lining. Armlets, too. are on sale In cashmere and In flu silk and wool mixtures, those to be worn under the long gloves of lace kid, that seem to hold their own In tb scheme of tLlngs fashionable. Assuredly, those promise cold weather comfort for the short-aleeva wearer, aad since they come only to the wrist snd cling closely to the arm all the wsy down, tbey do not Interfere In tbe least with the set of the street glove when In wear. A little elastic band Is run. Into the hem at the top to bold tbe armlet In place. Flower Holder tbst bang on th wall are meeting with an enthusiastic acceptance with those to whom flowers are a dally necessity. Many are the shapes that are displayed In these, and all aorta of materials sre cslled upon for tbelr making. Perhaps the prettiest are In faience or majolica. Chines and Japanese potteriea show up well. too. for this purpose, and a favorite design simulates seversl Irregular lengths of bamboo tied together, the flowers being thrust Into the bo!low stems. Striking Design In Velvet and Lace. One of the oldest snd at the same tlm one of th most fetching designs tha. have declared themselves for a long tlm Is carried out In this charming wrap that is equally appropriate for carriage or opera toilette. Tbe foundation Is a closely fitting jacket of Eton persuasion, this double-breasted for warmth, and fastening to one side with little chenille tassels at each fastening. Black velvet f peculiar deep pile and rich texture I eroployeJ for this. It being lined with a Leary satin snd comfortably Interlined .with a soft silk flannel so that the wearer rosy withstand the wintry blasts with comfort. Over this Is thrown a long scarf effect In old Italian lace, a i'lorentlue pattern revived from days long gone by. but brought again to light In tbe renaissance of lace Industries that Is taking place so generally throughout European countries. There Is a!oiutely no attempt whatsoever at making this lace conform to th tines or shape of tbe figure. It bangs la plain snd straight folds that permit of the entire pattern being displayed in all Its beauty. Bordered all around with a broad Mack velvet ribbon, the neck Is adorned with a braided cord piece that falls In graceful tassels at either aide of tbe fronts. Tb lace tablier Is 'backed with white chiffon and lined with a heavy white satin, so that its beauty and elegance are thrown into bold relief and tb matter of warmth and protection for the wearer are not lost sight of.