Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 31, Number 307, 2 December 1906 — Page 7

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for the Uthei Materials 1 IBhf - ' EJ? : SHI V

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ovei accessories.

The ocIaI season Is punctuated closely K'lth receDtion(. tenn. illnnor rln nrp anil Vinalcales. and all of them Intended for na purpose, to wit, the launching of the lebutante. Jut exactly how and when and whore d by whom a girl Is launched upon the rothy sea of society may count much lor or against her subsequent career. The eceptlon or other form of entertnlnmi-nt kbereby she Is Introduced to all of nor family's friends and acquaintances U eally the crowning point of her ednca Ion. Up to that time she Is supposed to ke In leading strings, to do as she Is bid. K accent - the opinion of others rnther ban her own; but once she is lanee she fecomes an active unit In the groat bite f society, and ber dres. her appearance, er deportment, are all subject to the ritlclsm of ber elders and her conteiuorarles. of friend and foe alike. One hardly reallres ' bow much dres onnts for until snch a scene as tblsn Is ncoontcrcd. Just "what she wears" ktns to tell ror so much. And not so bneb, perhaps, what she wears as how ne wears It. Some of us are trlfte.l with f.3 ability to wear even the simnieat nd least expensive of clothlnir n though Jhey were real garments, fashioned exressly for us and costly beyond all nrhe. thers, again, are th i-spalr of dresshaker. rorsetlere and milliner alike, for iomin? looks well, proportions seem kew and harmony and design and cfrct are conspicuously lacking. uowns for the entire family" Is most lurily tb order giTti when a debutante ceptlon Is to be held. More often than ot there are three generations ' rrmv. ntei in the1 tecelTlng line, and the fiamilng variety In mode, In fabric. In bshlon that the clever couturier con. ives for ber family of customers i fally admirable to behold. Here Is one stance iu which It la far better to itirost the entire order to one bouse rather I nan to patronise two or three different kessmakers. Oftentimes the artiste eouturlere will kmaud a close view of the scene of rh. ception. a written description of tbe heme of decoration and a hint or two W to the more prominent guests that .nre kpected to grace the function wltd their esence. Then, with ber mlse en scene illy in the mind's eye, it Is an ey -ask r ner to plan the gowns for eacn raemit of the family, and to see them in Ion as tbey will appear at the hour cf arlng. background and entire sunounJgs having been taken fully Into considratlon. Of course, the debutante Is the central Vure of the group; but. nevertheless, r frock Is expected to be one expresve of extreme simplicity. This may bt be taken to Indicate that she Is the ast expensively gowned of the occasion. bt by any means. Hers Is that brand f simplicity that Is far more costly than le russiaed. neiriued and befnrbelowed bwn which those who ban to extravn. lint elaboration In dress so muchlr vor. iTbe simple nfts, chiffons and tulles ere bat the best houses are turning out for elr debutante clients. Lace robes, too. fe in high favor with those to whom expse Is no object, and spangled and emoldered tuluncs are among- the very test and most attractive novelties. Alougb but recently introduced, this latter laterlai has sprung into popouiarity at a bond. Its seeming fragility and real rength of mesb being the secret of Its lecess. Its noncrushsble qualities. to.

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ness It will stand jnr as much packing and squeezing as does a good mohair or sicllienne tailor made. One does not often connect spangles with daylight wear; but some of the most charming of trimming devices employ those glittering discs to the greatest advantage. One charming robe that a debutante will wear Just before Christmas bas a smoke gray tulle for foundation, thickly bestrewn with nacre or mother of pearl, pallletted in a sort of fish-scale design that Is wondrously effective. The sober effect Is lightened by a- deep decolletage that Is defined with a fringed effect In opalescent beads, several sizes being used, and the longest of the Irregular strands falling to the celnture that deffhs tbe short-bodied waistline. There Is a yoke of filmy point de gaze that bas been in the family for almost a century. the collar to this being well pointed under tbe ears so that the appearance of a long and slender neck a high desideratum in tbe present acceptation of wbat constitutes beauty Is cleverly effected. The Empire mode Is a charming one for the young and slender girl to affect. Indeed, there are few styles on the current roster of fashion that are so flattering to the Immature figure of tbe jeune die as Is this old-time mode. A willowy slenderness of build Is all that is required, and bust and hips nre both supposed to be suppressed rather than emphasized in tbe silhouette. In consonance with the custom of tbe period in which the Umpire gown first flourished, some of the season's debutantes and others, too, for that matter are wearing thos fascinating little frocks with a decidedly low neck and a very short sleeve; and this custom is followed for afternoon as well as for eveuIng wear. Of course. It goes without saving that It Is only Indoors that this fad or fashion, or whatever one chooses io term it, prevails; tbe privacy of one s own home being supposed to be tbe explanation of tbe seeming bouleversement of accepted laws of dress. Frocks that are prlncesse In effect, though not veritably in fact, are muchly favored, too, by tbe younger element. A pinched tuck or a shirring makes for sufficient fulness above and below the waistline, and more often than not there are a few flounces cleverly managed above tbe hem. For the other members of the receiving Pirty, especially among the matrons, chiffon velvet in some one or another of its alluring guises Is a vast favorite. One oftentimes sees smart gowns in chiffon cloth that weave that Is far more graphically described as double cblffon trimmed with chiffon velvet of tbe same tint, the folds of velvet being deftly used to weight the chiffon, and make It to drag In artistic flutes and swirls from the knee to the foot. Where snch a mode Is followed the bodice Is about as likely to be of the Jacket variety, with broad Ilrectolre revers opening to display a waistcoat of some elegance, the sUortwnisted effect characteristic of the period effectively carried out, and the coat continued la a postillion or some such design below the waistline in the back. While the short sleeve still flourishes, the full-length arm covering Is full, ns often seen In expensive gowns. Many of them present a betwixt and between effect In making a short sleeve of the dress material, to fail over a closely fitted mlfslne of lace, this latter almost Invariably chlffoo lined, and carried down to t-ii im -etui orer tb band. Occa

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sionally a little slit and loop are made through which the thumb Is passed, a feature of fashion that bas much to com mend It In the way of economy In thes days of extravagantly and "expensively long gloves, which the short-sleeve fad de mands. Tbe elderly woman, whose arms are no longer things of beauty, and whose bands show signs of wrinkles that come with age. Is bound to welcome this new fad, and to her the shops are catering wisely in having pretty sets In more or less expensive lace made up and all ready to tack Into a short sleeve. One can order those either with or without the mitaine effect. For one thing, when the mitaine is usexJ the rings that are worn take on a new prominence and attractiveness, tbe softness of the lace lending a flattering effect to the hand, throwing the Jewels into a novel relief. While the debutante is most usually gowned in white, the buds who bare seen n season or two of social life lean more to the pale and pastel tints. There are several charmingly becoming blues on the color card, some of them absolutely defying description. Yellows, too. are promised a very prominent place In the affections of the fashionables, and since this tint has been very far In the background for a long time It really takes on the appearance of a novelty in Its new presentations. The tnoreelder!y matrons find the lilac, heliotrope, mauve and violet tones those last more often verging ou the blue rather than the purple most becoming In chiffon velvet, and velveteens and real laces are brought once more Into high vogue for their adornment. Gray, too. In several new shades, finds acceptance, while black Is seldom seen at social functions." Clever Features in , 1 rimmmgs. The Uirectolre Fichu Sash. There are several features In both construction and trimming that declare tba newer mode at a glance to the Initiated.Of those perhaps the most conspicuous and the most readily recognized la the clever touch of velvet, most usually In a contrasting tone, which decorates so many of the Imported models that grace the social season. The charming gown that makes tbe subject of Illustration Is a striking example of this fad. and really shows It up at its most attractive best. The gown proper is constructed of oue of- those dull matte finishes In white chiffon velvet, a form of this modish fabric that the manufacturers have only Jast presented, and at which oue bas to glance more than once to determine wbat the fabric really Is. The blouse is fashioned of an allover filet lace one of those bandmade Italian laces In which a sqnarenetted mesh Is tbe foundation and the figure, or pattern, is wrought In In needlework upon the mesh. Of course, it goes almost without saying tent there Is a backing of chiffon beneath tbe lace, the same method being followed with the rococo insertions on the skirt, made from the same exquisite and expensive lace. The skirt follows tbe circular form, relieved by tbe lace outre denx. and with clever examples of Italian polnte coupe posed between. Kut the real feature of the frock Is - the directoir? flebu sash made-of a maroon brown chiffon velvet and embroidered In a grape-and-leaf design in tbe palest f pale green silks. One birdiy know t ,r:rit u

ns a fichu or bretellc. tbe ends forming fIfH4W ,W SBS&VA M I the former Impression In the front. pass- g ' S?2&r1&& 1 I Ing over the shoulders, to meet in a point l'fifiK S &jV " "'L&rVS U II I In the center of the back ut a shortened i Ifeirir -.V S lyff' "43 I II waist line, from whl.h depend the two J I yHCflM V Ill long and broad sash ends that give espe- 1 I 1 r&M'J , V 11 Hal character to the design. I i 9 IcfW I 1 i I I

Cliarmlntf Debntanto Costame. There is a charming simplicity to tbe lines of this chic little gown that cannot fall to Impress the fashlonwlse. Not that It Is at all inexpensive to turn out. Kather Is It the charm of that expensive simplicity of which we M'.ear so much, but really see nil too little In these latterday frills and furbelows. A soft Ivory white orkeda silk, an flllover, embroidered net, and several bolts of Iniltitlou Mechlin lace, both the ede and tbe Insertion of this latter being used, go to make up tbe smart little gown. The corsage Is of the allover net. this liberally shirred and backed with a soft white chiffon. The sleeves are of the silk puffed nnd ending above the ellmw In a soft and narrow double frill. The well-boned ceiuture prescuts a special feature, taking, as it does, the characteristic lines of the corselet and defining the svelte waistline to perfection. The skirt is managed so that the front panel comes np over the corselet celnture, thus making for a straight and unbroken line down the center of tbe gov.n. Tbe silk Is used to halfway above the nnkle, where a shaped Douuce of the net Is applied. This is covered with n series of silk folds, deep at the ttottom and narrowing to the top, showing the embroidered net plainly between. -Tbe last fold Is covered with a bias velvet, so that there is a weighty fabric at the edge, this to withstand tbe wear nnd aid in the smart bang'ng of tbe skirt when In wear, Coitnme de Visile In Velvet. For general afternoon purposes, for luucheoa. for calling, and especially for reception occasions tbtre Is nothing on the fashion catalogue that can even remotely take the place of velvet or velveteen. Where the wardrobe must of necessity be a limited one. the velvet gown is - far and away the best investment that can be rsade, and the handsomer the design the more striking the success of the costume. Few fabrics dis play even tbe smallest attempt at trim ming to better advantage than does velvet, and the same is true of its less expensive cousin, the chiffon velveteen. Tbe coat and skirt p!nn is followed In the smart costume that Is pictured herewith. This affords opportnnity for the wearing or a large variety of blouses, a little feature of fashion, that really seems to gain rather than to Jose In favor ns the sea sons roll along. Although tbe separate blouse has really dominated the field of fashion for quite a few years now. there Is no hint whatsoever of any lessening of Us vogue. The coat shows tbe influence of the short waisted styles, the back being lifted a trifle, and the crushed belt that tops tbe fitted skin- defining quite n becoming s:ope from the back to the front, llroad embroidered black lacf Is laid over tbe shoulders, coming In straight straps Trom back to front and adding much to tbe richness of appearnuce. The skirt Is cut extremely full, falling in loose artistic folds from the hips, ami with a ribbon rnche topping a slUrred fiou-o at the foot, this weighting tbe skirt hem after the desired style. Tbe sleeve is disposed In a double puff, and presents tbe modish three-quarter f'ctili. embroidered lace making a smart fiaish aboTe tie wrisU

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Corsets and Corseting. he Changing Figure - Lines Demanded hy the New Fashions Hints and Suggestions as to the Selection, the Adjusting, the Wear and the Care of Fine Corsets.

"And. above all, don't be careless of your corset:" wr.s the parting Injunction of Madame. The ndrlce.was delivered emphatically, and with Imploring gestures. Madame was addressing tue back of her wealthy client. Just enteriug the elevator: and wbeu the asceuseur had dropped out of view. iie turned to the waiting customer with a bright smiie. "If you only knew all that we have to conteud with ou tbe part of our clieuta." auuuuuced Madame, still siuil ing. "you would couut It cause for thanksglviug that yon are not a drissrcikef. Now. there is Madame XX. who bas Just left. Khe Is one of my best and. yes, I'll ay it. one of my worst customers, at oue and the same time. "How can she be set once best and worst, you ask? Well, perhaps. It does need explanation. She is one of my best In that she orders !iierai!y. keeps fitting appointments promptly, never cavils or carps at cither the gowes or the bills. All that Is tbe !est side of b-r. And s.io- tji one of my worst !.'- cause fcotbing ever looks well oa ber. In sprte of her wenlth and her position she Is no credit to me tvhatsevor. In deed, it Is quite the contrary; for she wenrs ber clothes so badly that It renliy seen: a - to be more my fanlt than ber.. nnd it does seem a pity that after spending so much money and- baviug snch rvalir beautiful things, she Is never mentioned iu tbe Ut of well -coi ned omeu." v

The customer made some murmur of sympathy and understanding. Uut Madame was in a mood to talk, and since ber words are ever wisdom, the scribe listened also. "And It Is all because she will oot employ a good rorsetlere." said Madame, more In sorrow than In auger. "I do not know why it is tnat lr.ugl.sti aud Amcr.iau nu.uiu- oL, the one Is Just a bad as the othernever seem to thbik the make and shape of tbe corset have much, or even anything, to do with the success of their gowns. I often think that I shall Induce some gi coretmaker to establish a branch right here in my salon, just for tbe tx-nult of those obtinate clients who simply refuse to consider the corset qitt-ntiou from the sensible point of view. "Now. take Madame XX. who Jast went out. You can see that, although she is still on tbesnnny side of tbirtv.

sue u.is ici oer shoulders drop for- j ward, ber chest sink in and the aUIomen i protrude. There Is stmpiy no . end to f Lr waistline in tbe Lack, while In front ) It is i ovei shortened that It can bard.'y bo said to exist at all." 1 "lint," Interrupted tbe scribe. "Is not fill ttat owing to ber faulty carriage, t the wrong v.-ay of holding herself, of , fc;ndiug i:p and sitting, down" I "No. no." said the little Frenchwomau. "It is uot s. If she bnt bad j tbe orrert erset sue could not do j.uj of ta? things. Tbe well cut cor- j

set, made especially for ber by one who

nows bow, would never permit her to bold herself in that way. "And, by the way, did you ever know two women to disrobe In the same room, and not have to make soma apologetic remarks anent their corsets? Well, If they be English or American women, tbey bare to do no nine times out of ten. Just because the corsets aro not on public parade, like their blousea and parasols, tbey seem to think that almost anything will do, and tbey cling to cor sets, and keep them Iu wear long after tbey have become ahabby and well nigh worn out, have lost all of their sbaie, to say nothing of the charm of freshness. "However, wa were talking of wbat the corset can do. Now here," she said, taking up a dainty corset of white moire, brocaded with moss rosebuds. "This lias been made for a customer to wear with an Empire gown. She Is a large woman and a trifle inclined to be fleshy. t?he I um glued that because of her size she would look outr In such a style. Hut with the correct corset ahe can wear It to delightful advantage, and fully as well as ber more skinny sisters, whom tho Empire suodea are supposed to favor so especially. "Now, you will notice that the lacera are extremely long. Io not Imagine that this Indicates the possibility of tight lacing, for you will be wrong.. It Is merely to assist Iu the adjustment of tbe cornet. Widened out to tbe limits of tbe lacing, the corset is put ou, aud when tbe wnlst-llne of tbe garment Is drawn to the natural waist-line tbe back luring Is nulled a trifle to bold It In place. Then 'the Jarretel.es are caught to the stock ings, the undervest puneu up in iron aud under the arum, tbe lacing ta then drawn in and tied at tbe comfortable notch. "And right here," said Madame, "I want to tell you that all this talk about pulling up the stomach,' as tbey call It, is Just nonsense. Why, Just think, bow could you pull up your stomach inside of a corset? it Is a physical Impossibility. Anyone who knows even the rudiments of physiology will admit that. Aa for the abdomen, that may be drawn tip m little; some support for tbe abdomen la always a good thing. "You will notice that In this Empire corset the bust-line Is quite low, tbe waist line short and tbe hip continued well down and strapped by means of the Jarretelles. It Is Important that tbe hips be suppressed aa much aa possible wltli this style, and that tbe bust be made as Inconspicuous as is consistent with the build of th wearer. '.,.. "Quite tbe contrary is tbe effect aimed at In the prlncesse model. Iu this," and she re-hed for a pale pink moire antlyuu creation, fashioned altogether of rlbboua, several widths being employed, "you can see that tbe bust-line 1 made quite prominent, tb waist Is cleverly lengthened, the- blps are well sloped and tbe appearance of a plump and well rounded figure is aimed for." But tboso dear little rufflea acrosn the back wbat arc tbey for?' queried the customer. "Ob," said Madame, with an airy laugh, "that la to give the new back. Dldu t yon know that there la a new back nowadays? Bcaily, 1 suppose that It was tbe prlncesse mode that brought .t ' iu; but all the eorsetlcrea are giving tbe new back. You see tnat in tno very revealing prlncesse mode, tbere being nc fulness or sash or drapery below tbe waist-line in tbe back, if tbe figure happens to be a little flat there. It needs aometblng to fill It out. Just to give a little suggestion of a graceful curve. Hence those frfcinatlng little silken frills on the' coriet, that will afford Just the right a.nount of spring and curvetbere. "Oh. didn't I tell you that a good oorMtiere could give a smart figure to eveu a broomstick, end that without an clothes on it, either?" Tbe All-Blaelt Cowm, Tbe all-black costume la never out oi style. There is a charm about It which, wbeu worn by tbe rlgb: womau, canuot be exit-tied by tbe meat iMiiutlful colored costume And particularly Is this true of tbe Mack lace gown. There Is a wcll-boued and tlbtflttiug prlncesse Ho of uott taffetas, over which a foundation of black tulline It wbicb a foundation of black tnlllue I mounted, giving a soft background fot the open . meshes of the exquiolte black silk Uenalssnnce lace robe. Tbe bodice Is a simple affair. In which tbe lace In posed plainly oer the shoulders and drawn eiiy lrto tbe blgb girdie of black satin, which deserlles the fashionable empire lines, this some three inches In width and fastening In back beneath a lng. narrow beckie of beautiful cut Jet. The neck is cut la a shallow V and Cited la with a high featherboned collar and rUallow yote of black tulline finely tnc-ed. Full puffs to tbe elbow make tbe rin covering, and these, like the bottoo4 ol the graceful circular skirt, en fraine 'reral Inches all aronnd. are finished ) a frill of black Valenciennes lace iPi'ie by posing four row of edging one Vat the other, each row sllgbtly follei.

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