Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 31, Number 300, 25 November 1906 — Page 7

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The Fetching Fur Hat LeadsThe Velvet Hat is luch Beplumed- Sable and Mink Toques -Bruins in Ermine and Chinchilla Furs and the Milliner. VYtii! thoe models that were Imported arller lu the Reap .n showed a fine di.srejrfird for the'fact that thej- were Intended ffr wluterj? wear, their later successors Impress "this fact emphatically upon all lrt-holders.f - She v,p? would b considered modish lu fnilliitT today roust nhow some touch of fur, however slight It may be, upon her hat; and when the chapeau Is alto-trether-of far some costly pelt for preference tka the extreme of the fashion la racB)PjI and' represented. '.MThe'n-saYfrie art of the furrier finds. f perhaps Its best expression where the bats of season are concerned. It does foe m rattier more than a tr3e extravagant "fo"4 employ whole sable and entire Vrmlne skiua for millinery ptirposes; bnt wh?n i one calls to mind the fact that those expensive little pelts are employed wholo, ; that the skin Is not cut Into In nny iviiy whatsoever, and that its nltlVnrtte" (tt'Stiny In the scheme of things lashiouablj; - 1st not afTet ted In the least hy Hfrrw6ul iis-s, then there does seem' rrb sj:ife method, comnaeudable method, in II epvarent maduct!. of estravagwuce afltr all. Oue thins must be marked at tin- start: mid thilt is, f list rbcnp or nhr pi-Its !!cd iit a'c-p;a!n e wl;:t.'over nt the j!!:i.;u i'3 " hiiiuis. If rliori.' is nny ..'a.e iiM'rt a poor or f!io:ij c;i U s- ;i t. tin? uttcrtu'ist dLs.-iiUiuit.-!-. it ii , ..mi a lust; for i fieri It is hs. d i .tl! its nt'a-d-twa and imnciiiv ti. to t!: ;..ri' ,.I ;j I'l'Itlcnl 'public. Tlu ie are no :,;uit :IH f!(l Hiitl tuck's nud rvwrn to l-.ble i; siiUitioisiin-H. It is seen fur r.Iir.t it is nud tli.re is o Uiaii!- it. Where furs are com erned, the old adage niiciit 'The best of Its kind, or no ue at all," applies with, peinliar force to the season s fashionable hats; and t!;e vain effort that seme women make to keep np with the exfreme style, in spite of the fact that their pure is of slender capacity, would better abandoned altogether, when furs r the first quality cannot be indulged in. As for the imitation furs, those dyed and blended monstrosities which deceive nobody but tte iguoraut, they wo.m! better bel forgotten altogether nud the money wnico they cost be devoted to better things. Small and close-flftine shanes nro ni.,Kt. I ly favored when the chaneau is t.. altogether of fur. The toauo and the turban that, approach the torpedo und the Spanish Bhapes, respectively, are mostly in evidence, with the addition of a rosette or chou of velvet, fl.e animal head or a paradise or ostrich plume for (rimming, as the case may be. Where the chapeau Is not altogether of fur there la evident a vast liking for furry trimmings. A band of sable ;r ermine la far and away the smartest just now, and velvet flowers are in big vogue. One sees dahlias. morning-glories.-pansles, loose petaled roses and rchids In several tones of color adorn ing expensive examples of the milliner's irt; and the best of those combine mouseline de sole with the velvet to a de lightful extent. White and pale tinted felts are in bbrb. esteem, and there is assuredly a dressy appearance to even the least expensive or elaborate of these that must undoubtedly commend them to the fastidious. mose rurs ana rurry trimmings take -ii an added attractiveness, and rather large shapes are to be preferred to smalt ones. Sometime ago this scribe hinted that the Charlotte Cordav slin TW uhtih aV uch a brief run a couple of seasons ago. would snrely be revived this vear: and some of the mot fetching oftwta ii. niilinery follow this historical shnn.. With the trend of shape running from acii to. rront or .vice versa and with be sides of the hat drawn close to the lead, this Charlotte Corday cnapeau Is lie of the best and most univcrsailv heoiniiig of the recent models. Little- perky sailor shapes, too. are uuch liked for the vouusrer section nt ociety, and one sees those developed In nany of the short-haired furs. Sealkin, mole, caracul and chinchilla are ised for those, and yards upon yards of ualinette go to their trimming. xnere is a great deal of uuent velvet ised this year in smart millin.rv u abrtc that, except for its mourning ise. tins been but little heard of for kunetime past. There is a auiet eieance about this expensive goods that U-ill appeal to those of conservative astes. A Royal Set prom far St. Petersburg, the land of be Kussian sabie, where one finds this l-ostly pelt at Its most luxurious best. omes this charming set which presents Several new and novel ideas. The chaoeau. be corselet, the muff are totally difrerent o what we have been accustomed to seeng on this side of the water. A someVvbat Spauish shape is presented In the urbaa. the crown being flat and the brim Ieep and setting closely to the crown ail k round. The shape projects prettily for ust a trlfie all aroun.1. the under part of he brim beiDg made in a pale pink tnllne tbat casts a most becoming glow over he face and lightens up the somewhat leavy effect of the fur. This effective ouch of pink Is repeated In the looseeavert velvet roses tbat are causct to the

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""" ire silk, and moire velvet, too. are themselves felt In the scheme s; nnd real laces, handsome I!i s. and even large buttons, are relied upon to help out the extreme of elaboration that is approved of so highly. The heguln is the latest aspirant for fashionnble favor in Paris. "This Is about the smallest type of toque that has ever presented Itself, and really seems more like an apology for a bat rnther than an actual hat Itself. Originaliy Introduced as a theater toque, it has taken such a hold upon the affections of the elegantes that It has obtruded itself everywhere, until now one sees It almost as much worn with a short morning tailor-made as with the most elaborate evening toilette. In Its most attractive presentation the begiun is composed of a tiny crown in fur or velvet, this presenting a puffy, crushed appearance, the material being lightly and loosely tacked to the crown foundation beneath. There is n scant apology for a brim or rim around this, upon which there is no end of elaboration lavished, and the needed note of character Is supplied in a plume ostrich, marabout or paradise that stands boldly upright on the left side, and gives height and smartness to what would otherwise be a very flat affair. Indeed. So far there have not appeared any of those huge cartwheel affairs that have passed for picture hats in the times gone by. All of what the milliner terms large hats are decidedly moderate dimensions, compared with some that have been shown In other seasons; and the exaggerated effects In coiffure that were wont to accompany such chapeaux are luckily also things of the past. Some extremely pretty hats are on view In which the crown Is covered altogether with roses of delicate tint, albeit many of them are of colorings that nature does not present. They usually match the brim in hue, and the flowers are deftly veiled with a single thickness of white or tinted rualinette, a device that adds much to the beauty of the chapeau, and aids also in keeping the delicate blossoms fresh and dainty, since the maliuette is an altogether waterproof affair and guar anteed to withstand fog and darupuess uumiraoiy, anu no rorms an uuequaie protection for the flowers. flowers and foliage In tinsel effects are finding quite a following, and some of the prettiest chapeaux show those lu combination with velvet ribbon rosettes. Huge Napoleon rosettes, too, are made from cloth of gold and cloth of silver (or tissu d'or and tissu d"argent, as they are more correctly termed abroad). For the center of these some of the cleverest milliners are taking big beaded buttons, wooden molds covered with the beadli& that is characteristic of our native Indian work, and which make for a really stunning effect when well selected. They are not by auy means cheap, those big buttons: for the beading has all to be done by hand, and that is a slow and expensive process nowadays, when the expenditure of time means the expenditure of money likewise, and that In a goodly quantity, too. in Sabl es. side. dull and faded tints of rose pink toniur softlv rniTsr the fur. The ranfF is one of the oblong and flat shapes that are 4 replacing tte pouch effects tbat have occupied a prominent -place in fashion for several seasons now ; and there is a flat fringe of the fur aU around, a real lace rutaing underneath ad-Jing to the rich ind elegant effect The corselet is an absolute novelty on this side of the Atlaatie, and is planned rather as a trianming for the gown than as a separate fur wrap or garment. The tifie describes its shape accurately, it passing arourd the waistline absolutely. . as does a corselet. A broad stole is arranged to produce a breteile effect, and there is a postilion of the fur at the back wber, incidentally, the fastening Is effected that adds much to its oritinalitv and charm.

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Tfic Hat anc? tlie Hair. Some Remarks Ansnt the One ant the Other -Hie Successful Chapeau and the J3 scorning Coifture urmshed Locks Their Aiam-' ment and Their Keeping.

One cannot very well take up the consideration of the winter s millinery without at the same time giving some little attention to the question of coiffure and cbevelure as well. In seasons past the milliner has been vexed to produce chapeaux that would consort equa'ly well with widely varying types of coiffure; and the woman who dressed her locks after the demure Madouna manner found It we!luigh impossible to find a hat in ready-to-wear stock to meet her needs. . Some few small toques and torbans she might light upon If she were lucky, bnt as for anything in a dress bat. well, that had to be specially designed for the wearer, the miliiuer was wont to declare with a long-drawn sigh. She was having her troubles just then, the mil'Iner. and a frown on her brow instantly made its appearance when a woman with her hair parted in the center presented herself as a would-bo purchaser of one or more "bats. However, the matter has settled itself in the new shapes, as it was bound to do sooner or later. One can find a chapeau to set well on any sort, size or shade of chevelure, and since that is so easy, the woman who prides herself on being v eil dressed may well save tbat task to the milliner and devote herself to the care and cultivation of her own burnished locks. Tis the hair, and not the bat. that makes a woman look beautiful," nBounces a French authority upoa female ! liennrV. linp ffl It i t- r,innx- liifs l.rtr i the cbevelure tbat nature grants must f last -one throughout a lifetime. Its care then becomes second oaiy to that, of the sikin and complexion, and well merits far more time and attention than are often i bestowed upon it. The average woman seems more afraid of fresh air than anything else, where ber hair Is concerned. The traditional hundred strokes of the bairbrusb at bod time is more often honored in tlie omission than In the commission; and the closely coiled cot ff a re of the day is succeeded br a tisbt braid at uicht. so that

-TIP! J. JL-jW J- J-J the scalp and the length of the hair get but little chance for an airing, and seldom or never at all get a chance for a full sunning. A celebrated Parisian . capillurgist rccommeuds bis clients to wear the hair in the bouse and garden '"en jeune fille," that Is in one or two braids, loosely plaited and hanging down the back for tboir full length, a ribbon bow tieing them at the bottom. This permits the air to reach both the scalp and the hair at once, and so makes for a far more healthy condition of both. " One old lady, a daughter of the Southland by birth, rejoices in a luxuriant head of hair,, snow white, and well below her knees, aitnough she has long passed the biblical limit of three score and ten. ner numerous grandchildren have all of them scanty hair, and grandma Is frequently consulted as to the whys and wherefores of this lack of hirsute adornment on the part of her descendants. "It Is nil just a little care, dears." she tells them. "Just a little car and attention now and again, but the sevret Is that 1 keep everlastingly at it; that's all!" she added smiling. "Vo'j all of you remember the stories I have told you of Aunt Arminda, my obi mammy. We'I. if there were any secrets of the toilette that she did not know I rather reckon they were hardly worth knowing at all. When I was given Into her arms, a little tinv. wee baby, shused to declare that she began to cultivate uiy hair and comnlexion riiiht away. Anyhow, I had long curls when I was four years old. but I nrrer could get any of j my own girls' heir to grow just like that. However, when I went away to boarding school Mammv Armb made me nromise that I would make 100 strokes of the hairbrush, each side of the parting ev iiigiit, havlr.g first rubbed the entire scalo well uith tbe finger tips for a foil five minutes by the clock, aal after tfce brassing to fan tlie whole bead and the length of the bair with a paiiii Vf fan for another five miiictes. "Then 1 had to take an old silk fcand-

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kerchief of my father's and rub the scalp and the hair with this thoroughly, this being to give the burnished appearance to the hair that the novelists of those days were so fond of describing;. Somehow or other there was supposed to be some especial efEcaey in a handkerchief upon which soap or blueing had not been used; so a new one was always Included la my ontfit after each vacation. Then after all of this I had to shake the hair out thoroughly, and finally slip on a little China silk night cap. just like the big dusting caps of today, which slipped on with an elastic band In the casing all around, and kept my long hair from tangling and snarling on the pillow. It took me a half hour every night to attend to my hair, and it takes me that time still. But I think It pays, my dears; I think it pays." Some Uses of Olive Oil. For internal treatment in place of cod liver oil It could be taken like this, and also as an adjunct to the food in the way of salads, etc. And just here let me say fhat salads are such excellent things for the health and complexion, with a proper dressing, that It Is a great pity tbat they are not seen on American tables as often as in Europe. As a beauty specific the oil should be use at night either once or two or three times a week, or even daily if wished, but only after the face has been well washed and the proper time for which is at night. Use warm or moderately hot water and the very purest soap, while for some skins oatmeal Is the very best thing to use. Sponge the face well to open the pares, rub on the soap with the hands, which should be perfectly clean, with a gentle upward and outward motion from the chia and the cheeks and along any place where wrinkles are likely to form. Take a few minutes ovc this operation, but be careful . the movements nre light and gentle, and then rinse off the soap thoroughly with warm water and sponge rapidly with cold water, and dry gently with a soft towel. After this rub 1b the oil gently with the tips of tee fingers and the same movements as described for washing; leave it for a few moments for the skin to absorb as much as It can, and then rub off all superfluous oil with soft Hut or wadding. Am I'n known Tree Discovered. A remarkable tree of unknown variety has been discovered near the Mexican border. The leaves resemble in size and shape the fig leaf, but they are of a vivid pnrple color and the under side of the leaf is thickly covered with stiff hairs which stand out fully half an Inch- These hairs are sharp and thornlike, and are apt to cause poisoning if they penetrate the human skin. The blossoms are as peculiar as the branches and leaves. They are of rusty red color and are about two Inches in diameter. Tfce most peculiar feature of the plant, however, remains to be told. Whenever on approaches the plant or when the wind agitates th branches of the tree the flowers give A an abundance of heavy and sickening perfume. The perfume ess a curious effect on animals, a few inhalations of the odor producing semiconsciousness.

Did You Know Tlit where a bodkiu is not handy a sst'fety pin makes au admirable substitute? Catch the tape or ribbon that Is to be run through ou the pin, fasten it in the usual fashion and then use the blunt end of the safety pin to carry the ribbon through the casiug r beading. This is far ahead of the usual makeshift of u beut and twisted hairpin, the pointed ends of which are always catching in the material while in transit through the casing, and a large safety piu is usually at hand, at least almost as frequently as a hairpin Is. - That alcohol is far better for cleaning purposes, where one's clothes are concerned, than aminomar r'or cleaning hats, alcohol and water, eqtial parts, applied with a stiff brush, will restore the finish to felt, if the article is dried by shaking vigorously iu the sunlight. Spots on cloth or silk dresses, too, yield more readily to alcohol than to ammonia or benzine, and there is no danger of the streaked and ringed appearance that so often Is the result of au attempt to cleanse such t home. Tlist the best tailors are using velveteen and braid bindings upon the edge of walkIng skirts? The late models are quite an appreciable bit longer than were those of the early autumn, and the fine broadcloths are preserved daintily and neatly by this device at the edge. It should be applied by band, and with but a rare suggestion of the velveteen showing below the ertge. That pheasant plumage is very much to the front in current fashions? Charming sets are shown by prominent milliners In which this iridescent brown plumage Is used for a small turban, a neckpiece and a muff. The two latter items are cleverly comblued with brown velvet, brown chiffon and ecru lace, with ninth brown velvet ribbon interspersed in the design. Entire Sable Sklas Clcverlr Iwd. The all-saving art of. the furrier nowadtys makest possible to use one's costly possessions in the way of sables and other expensive skins to the uttermost advantage, so far as looks are concerned, atd that without sacrificing the costly pelt in any way whatsoever. A charming example of this is afforded la the smart toque depicted. The crown is f ecabroldered rose pink re! vet, the embroidery employing both gold and silver threads, seed pearls and mock jewels. Around the deep rim an entire sable ft In Is draped, the head coming mi the back, and the little claws and tail fail ing on the hair at the left side. Toward the back, and still at the left side, there is a drooping cluster of roses that exhibit the new bois de rose, or rosewood, sfcades, tfce darker tones occupying the top, and the roses lightening In tint as they descend. There is a shallow bandeau, velvet covered, tucked into the fceadsize of the shape alt around, this serving to lift the heavy fur border well off the face and hair, and so lighten the effect. A very dark brown veil of real ctaut'.Hy is caught at the back of tfce toque end draped after the very latest Parisian methods, one that savors muchly of the Spanish mantilla effect. The veil is simply caught to the toque and allowed to bans in, loose natural folds, the length caught carelessly around the Bfck and filling to the waistline uncon-fiued.

Mushroom Shapes in Favor - 'The New Boatipped Plume - Sable Tails Trim Pale Blue Felt - Fetching Motor Cap in Braver. Mash room shape are highly favored 1 both felt aud velvet, and In the smart model that owes its inspiration to Parisian atetler both the mushroom shape and tint are employed to its development. The material is a soft and fine French felt, the color being that Indefinite and indeterminate tint that characterizes the under side of the mushroom, a peculiar brown with a fleshy cast through it. Velvet of exactly The same shade is used In a flat band to bind the edge and to cover the crescent-shaped bandeau that is tucked Into the headslse all around, its stepest point being in the center of the back, and narrowing to almost uothlng at ali In the front. At the back this is filled in with a ruffling of mallnette that tnctrhes the chapeau to a marvel. In front a group of little sable heads its posed, a long scarf of the costly far wending its way around the side of tha hat, while this is balanced at tha other sld with, a long plume of mushroom tint that retains the plume shape uurfT It reaches the edge of the brim, and then becomes a curly boa shape, acting as a pendant to the feather on top. Sable Tail Trim Pale nine Kelt. j There Is a very dc!ded reaction In favor of the soft French foit chapeau rather than the stiff pressed felt shapes that obtained last year. ome of these former, however, find a little wire, milliner's wire, of course, be it understood, quite an assistance in tnalntaluing the elected curves and undulation, but thwre must not be a bint of any set stiffness to the result, if it is to hold a place iu tha fashion procession this winter. Hueh Is the effect produced lu tha pretty model tbat is pictured on this page. The soft felt is in a clear and rather cold pale blue, the coldness of tint relieved by tha trimming of fur that is drt!y applied. This fur trimming is altogether of little able tails sewed to a ribbon band, and so cunningly arranged that Instead of failing in a straight fringe effect a curved and convoluted effect Is gained. Between the rpaces made by the tails loops of pale blue llterty ribbon pep forth, making for a soft and pretty appearance. Itight in the center of the front is posed a rose of moussellne and velvet, tones of tan and a smoky brown betas used, this giving a decided touch of color harmony that Mends the pale blue felt and the deep brown of the fur delightfully. The back is lifted by a steep t-acne-peigne. this covered with a frothy ruche of pale blue mallnette and so serving to tilt the bat to a most becoming angle over the face. A Motor Cap la Beaver. In the search fur novelty that is the secret and foundation of fashion fashion and fashions that are eternally changing the furrier has turned once more with a favorable glance to beaver, and to the somewhat rarer and scarcer otter. The thick nnd dense fur of the beaver tones in delightfully with both the fashion for smooth surface and with the color card, si ne the beaver shade is one that is highly modish in cloth and velvet to say nothing of velveteens and corduroys that are worn by the fashionables this season. The large crown of the flat Tam-o'Shanter order that one sees on so many of the imported millinery models is used for this piece of motor headgear, the brim taking the approved visor form that distinguishes such apparel from that intended merely for street purposes. A Iitte touch of trimming is attempted to relieve the flatness of the fur, this taking the form of rosettes of pale blue velvet, shading on tha turquoise tints, tucked In between the crown and the brim on the left side and running up on the crown towards the back. A curled coqac plume in brown serves to harnionlze the contrasting tints of fur and velvet nicely, and adds a feminine touch to the somewhat masculine shape of the model. White Velvet, White Flames aael Eralie. There is absolutely no prospect that white will be replaced In fashionable faror by any other color, whether for furs, millinery or gowns. Of coarse, it argues a liberal dress allowance and an Indifference to cleaners' bills when one follows tha fad for white clothing the year around. But in wintertime It really seems more dressy, more luxurious than ever; and the combination of white cloth, white fur and white velvet Is one that many of the wealthy debutantes of the present season are carrying out. and la every section of the wardrobe, too. Just what Paris elects to wear In this effective combination is cleverly set forth in the charming hat and coat, of which but a glimpse of the latter ia afforded in the picture. The chapeau is a clever combination of the sailor and Charlotte Corday shapes, and Is altogether in white paon velvet, this finish being far more approved for millinery purposes than I the chiffon velvet that Is so modish in otter departments of dress. Bof. loose and essy Is the manner In which the velvet folds are handlel. the three plume.' starting from the left side well towards the back and falling over tbe brim that ia lifted by a cacbe-peigne to give it that projecting line at this point, which Is one of the apprwed items in the new miilinery modes. A band of ermine is loosely draped around tbe hat. and tbe caene-peigne In the back, covered with white velvet, too. Is trimmed with a stiff little cravat of the ermine, tied in a double tow with two pendant ends tbat barely reach the hair, and afford a very quaint effect.