Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 31, Number 293, 18 November 1906 — Page 7

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Smartest Gowns ant Elah orate Headdresses the Short-Dalmatic o pera - n The appearance en 4 rootle .ten ue. which qt few other occasions of ovr-social Hf ffer. la really Been at its climax and potheosls at the opera. Whethe ta the stalls or boxes, the esreme of evening dress Is Imperative, and he choicest Of one's possessions of wardobe and jewel casket are brought forth or the occasion. The very elaborate toilettes that Euroean opera houses display are scarcely rer seen or noted on this side of the At actic. F"r one thin?, we hare no royalies here' wltlx, their attendant train of onrtiers to set the paee la dress. Jewels od decorations. Bat few, eren of our oresiost families, possess the rare laces, he exquisite sables, the countless Jewels hat are well nigh priceless, and wt-'-h ave come flown from generation to genration la families abroad,: and are a part. nd. parcel of the opera toilette In the pera houses of the older civilization. But none the less, the American woman" oes not by any means neglect the oppor tunity so afforded her for the display of er choicest possessions In the jewelry nd sartorial line. The extreme of decolletage which Is ecessary for formal appearance abroad it not followed here to any great extent. ndeed. the elderly section of society. raiding that neck and shomders will no nger successfully encounter the glare of bousands of electric lights and the pitU as remarks of lookerson, have taken to lther transparent yokes or. else to ulmpes In Jeweled laces, and rely npon eep collars of pearls, festoons of Jewels, nd as many necklaces as the jewel caset will afford to cover op the ravages f time and age. Since simplicity and an extreme of slmUclty at that Is Insisted upon for the ounger section, and especially for the ebatante, jewels are altogether taboo, Ith, perhaps, the single exception of a rring of pearls around the throat. While : must be a single and a simple string, tere la no limit whatsoever put on the mount of money that It may represent. n debutante of the season received rom her doting grandfather on her de nt a single string of matched pearls. pr which a check for $10,000 changed ands ere their purchase was completed. There seems to be almost a duel beeen the modes of the First Empire and lose of princesse persuasion where the pera toilet Is concerned. None the less, here Is no waning whatsoever of 'the ogue of the gown fashioned In two septate pieces, corsage and skirt, with a knart ceinture to mark the point of sepaMob Detween the two. It Is altogether Tie Art of

Lorrect and Incorrect Usages of 1 h

Accessory - Varying Tastes Commend Various Scents - Some Recent Novelties.

The art of perfume Is one that really pea not receive anything like the amount attention in these latter days that It as used to centuries agone. Those days of luxury refined to the ntrmost limit; the times that preceded e fail of Home saw perfumes advanced what was almost a fetich. The craze r distinctive odors and Individual ents was one of the distinguishing feares or tne aay, ana one that bids fair be revived In all Its glory ere the esent century shall have run Its course. While we on this side of the water e never even thought of rivaling the rench masters of the art of rerfume. ere are some domestic makes of scents at are really equal to, if they do not rpass. the best of the forehrn makes. jJm of thoj homemakers has put he re a lasuaious puDiic a variety of permes in wnicn tne nower to which It kres Its scen"t.'Xs,Tonflned whole in the ttle. tor-ample, a violet perfume S two or three long-stemmed Marie raise or Sicilian violets floating In the ttle In all of their natural colors, the pohol of the perfume or extract acting a preservative ror tne nower. mom bebuds. too, lllies-of-the-valley, pans, narcissus and other fragrant blooms f so fancifully imprisoned, and It is d that their odor clings to the empty ttle long, alter tne extract has been led up. a the olden times, when the art of bltatlon was not even dreamed of, the enslve odors that were freely floating the air everywhere made necessary Js carrying of perfume boxes or pounce 1 en. as they were called. These were Mally of precious metal, Inlaid, enarod or otherwise decorated by the Jewr'u art, and with pierced holes In the rer whence was omitted the perfume It bin. . 5 kbout the same time, too. snuff was roduced. and was originally indulged for the same reason as necessitated r unce box. Perfumed snuff, was

Jewelry Worn - Plain anc?

- iZXe Long Cloak cn( - Fashions Seen at the Matinee. a matter of Individual preference which Is selected. The matter of headdress Is one that becomes dally more Important as the sea son goes on. While there is little, If any, danger that we shall revert to the hid eous disfigurements that passed under this title In the days when the modes of the First Empire were regnant, still the beaddresses that have been introduced this season "from Paris are decidedly more prominent than those worn last season. Large ostrich and paradise plumes, huge marabouts rising from a cluster of arti ficial rosea, wreaths of flowers from which a paradise plume springs abruptly to wave Its length toward the back of the hair, any and all of those are favored for evening wear far more than are the jeweled coronets and tiaras of seasons agone. Not but what one sees Jeweled pieces , and sprays for the coiffure, but they are not so often worn as, they used to be, even by women whose Jewel boxes contain several specimens of those costly trl umphs of the jeweler's art. It is quite the correct thing to wear one's evening wrap until seated, and so Its selection is a matter of both taste and purse. For those to whom the question of expense is a matter of indifference there are exquisite garments shown In Russian sables and In chinchilla, ermine HneJ. Other beautiful wraps are altogether of ermine the lining usually of painted chiffon, and fastened with jeweled clasps. In lien of buttons. The long cloak that covers up the toilet completely Is being pushed aside In favor of the short dalmatic. Some exquisite examples of this are shown In ermine, with the most fascinating hoods over the shoulders, those to be drawn on over the head when emerging Into the night air.. Sleeves to those are fashioned upon the cape or dolman order, and the arm size oftentimes extends down to the waistline, the cape or dolman sleeve filling It In" completely. That those are easy to get Into and out of wltbont assistance Is not by any means the least of their charms, added to which there Is none of that djsgulsing bundling up of the figure which the long and loose cloak of the burnous order effects. The gloves that elegantes are ordering for opera wear are far and away the most elaborate things that have been shown at the glove counters for many a long day. The fancy is for pale tints of suede, not glace, and those are Jeweled, embroidered and lace-trimmed to an extent never before even thought of. Perfu me. used by the elegantes of both sexes, and collectors of the present day set great store by the pounce boxes and snuff boxes of centuries ago, whence perfumes In a powdered form found their first general acceptance, and foreshadowed the sachet powder that Is so freely used today. Tastes vary In perfuaaes, as In other features of fashion; and the advent of a new extract, or combination of extracts Is always welcomed. The effort to procure Individual and distinctive perfumes, scents and odors that shall be as definitely expensive of one's personality as are one's clothes, leads many of the great ladies of Europe to extravagant lengths. Queen Alexandra of England has ever since her first coming to that country of fogs and fine complexions adhered to the plain lavender water. The South of England grow lavender of a peculiar fragrance such as does not seem to flourish etsewhere, not even along the sunny slopes of the Riviera, where flowers of all sorts and kinds grow in profusion and reach their highest point of perfection. This lavender water la distilled especially for Her Majesty, one family consisting of a clergyman's widow and her two daughters, making a comfortable Income from this one Item. They have a lavender garden, their own little distillery, bottling plant and all ; and since they are not at liberty to accept orders from anyone else. Her Majesty has the pleasure of knowing that no one else can duplicate her especial perfume. ; Following an old recipe In their family, the makers put up one kind for the bath, one with some other fragrant herbs incorporated to be used especially as a tonic sponge bath and another - general perfume. Then there are bags and sachets galore tr the wardrobe and lineu rooms; and each and every one of those is put up in hands-on and bandwoven linen covers, with the royal monogram embroidered In la Tender linen threads: and those

are sent annually after the lavender harvest to be refilled. The Empress Dowager of Russia, a sister of Queen Alexandra, by the way. indulges a fancy for heavy perfumes of all sorts. Chypre pronounced sheep's, with the peculiar- slurring of the "r" to the preceding syllable characteristic of the Fraach) is one of her favorites. This is distilled from the southern cedar,aml has a heavy, lingering odor. In former days, when smoking among the ladles of the court wns not frowned upon as it is by the present Czarina, it was necessary to use a penetrating and a somewhat heavy perfume in order to overcome the omnipresent fumes of tobacco. This same perfume is in algh favor with many of the nations of Central Europe, and Is at its very best in an extract made by the nuns of a little convent on the Pyrennean borders of France. In order to obtain this particular make one has to be recommended or introduced to the convent by someone or another of their clients; an I orders for the amount desired have to be placed In the spring for autnmn delivery. The nuns make only as much as they have orders for, and the resulting gain is devoted to the mainte nance of a certain portion of their famous scnooi. A certain number of young giris of good family, but limited means, are taken into the school and educated with the daughters of prominent and wealthy families. None but the mother superior herself is aware of the identity of those "assisted scholars." as they are known; and as the convent prescribes a uniform for all of Its pupils, and no Jewelry or knlckknacks is permitted within its walls, the secret is easily kept. There is one little point In the usage of French extracts that is scarcely ever, if at all, observed over here, and that is that the extract is so powerful, so concentrated, that its use raw as it comes from the bottle is oftentimes offensive to a fastidious taste. The French know well the secret of their use, and a Frenchwoman would not think of dabbing or epraying perfume over herself just before leaving the house or her boudoir, as is the favorite American way of doing. The correct fashion of using French extracts is to let one single drop fall on the moucholr or whatever else, is to be perfumed and then this is waved in the air so that a current goes through it and the scent is dissipated throughout the article. Then its delicacy and haunting fragrance assert themselves, the heavy odor that clings to the scent., on Its first emergence from the bottle becomes toned down and there is a more lasting 1 quality or the perfume evident and appreciated. A piece of cotton wool, preferably the sterilized and asceptic kind that may be purchased at any druggist's, may be liberally sprinkled with -any perfume selected, and when tied in a sheer handkerchief, placed in one's wardrobe, hat, glove or moucholr boxes and the perfume so used will cling to every article with which it comes in contact. Another and similar idea makes use of a piece of porous pumice stone, which absorbs extract greedily. This may be tied up in a piece of silk and laid away among one's blouses and lingerie, and just the faintie8t. but, at the same time, a definite odor will declare itself for quite some time. Sachet powders are growing In nse and tavor every day. One smart New York shop, which Is but a branch of a well-known Paris bouse, makes a specialty of making np sachets for every possible purpose. There are little ones that are tacked flat Into a hat lining; flatter ones go Into the armboles of a waist or blouse; envelope-shape affairs that are 'placed inside of gloves and folded mouchoirs. and large pads that occupy the bottom of the bureau and chiffonier drawers, trunk trays and the like. . And they are all made with washable cover, so that the extreme of daintiness may be observed.

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w High Necked Princesse Gowns Worn. While the matrons of society are much addicted to the extreme of decolletage. the younger section, and especially the debutantes, are modestly favoring the lace yoke, uniined, and finished with a transparent collar. Such is the mode followed in a frock of Parisian origin, in which lace of Irish make. Brussels net edged with point d'alencon, and white chiffon velvet are all cleverly combined. The yoke In this instance is of the detachable kind, so that the decollete , mode may be followed when desired. A closely fitting princess line is defined In he body portion, this being in a small and fine Irish crochet, over chiffon; a Canterbury bell applique in the same lace applied to form a separate pattern. This part Is so fashioned that it defines the pripcesse portion for body, waist and hips, stopping when once the curve of the hip is passed, and being continued in two-side panels down either edge of the front and back center, respectively. The broad space so formed Is filled in with a series of flonnces In siik Brussels net, each flounce edged with real poiut d'alencon lace, and making for an extreme of fulness at the feet. The back panel Is managed in the shortwalsted effeet, springing from the center seams about half a finger's length above the waistline, and so preserving the natural curves of the figure in the silhouette. I-arge appliques in embroidered velvet edged with lace are somewhat after a sunflower design, and, in various sizes. dK-orate the bodice and skirt in panel effect.

d Real L es an aces. The short-waisted effect that the elegantes in dress are so strenuously insisting upon In all of the later modes Is daintily expressed in the model of the picture. Just a hint, a suggestion of the modes of the First Empire is apparent in this exquisite model. In which black tulline is liberally bespangled and combined with real black chantilly lace. The extreme vogue of bib and tucker effects Is shown in the corsage part, in which a collar and yoke in tine pillowmade Cluny is tucked inside a tucker of "tucked wnite chiffon, the spangled tulllne brought up over this with a narrow binding of bias velvet, which serves to mark more emphatically the contrast of both color and material. The skirt is brought up in that loose line around and above the waist that the fashions of the First Empire demanded, only the slenderest of figures being able to withstand the extremely trying effect of the shortened waistline. It takes a slender hip as well as a slender waist to carry this mode to advantage; and an erect carriage. In which the head Is held high, the chest well out and the abdomen in the correct physiological position, is the necessary accompaniment of this style. The girl who "stands so straight that she almost falls backward" would better firmly forswear adherence to the modes of this period, for they will only serve to bring into prominence the painful defects of her carriage and figure. Soft white moire ceinture and bracelet on the sleeve make for a pretty contrast, and the prevalent fashion of weighting the hem of a gown with both chiffon and velvet is followed with excellent results.

Spangl

For tlie Well

Hints and Items that Finished Winter Fur and feather pieces are at their newest and best when they follow the cape or the shawl shapes. Those that "throw" scarfs that were all so much a la mode last year are totally discredited this season. For one thing their repro duction in cheap and imitation pelts was altogether too easy a task for the manufacturer not to take advantage of, and the pieces that commanded a high price In ermine and sables were reproduced in dyed cat and rat furs to a semblance of the expensive originals. Hence, the elegantes this season are trying shapes and designs whose workmanship III Involve an amount of labor that the maker of cheap and Imitation furs cannot afford to turn out. The eare of the I1U petticoat Is a little Item that the average woman does not understand. One bears on all sides how utterly unreliable even t'je most expensive silk skirt Is liable to prove In wear; but those who make that complaint are oftenest the very ones who never take any intelligent care of such. It Is not so much the care as the Intelligence that directs it that counts In the preservation of the garinentA silk skirt, be it a petticoat or a drop skirt, must be thoroughly brushcj In the open air after every wearing. There Is nothing that cuts silk, no matter what its quality, so quickly as dust or grime. The sharp particles of dust and san.l grind their way quickly through the silk and a slit or a hole is the consequence. There are several silks, even amoflg the less expensive kinds, such as sedo, orkedo. etc.. whose wearing qualities guaranteed but with this 1 . lso, that intelligent care be taken of the garment. After the brushing, and it is best done with a soft bristle clothes brash rather than a hard and harsh whisk broom. If there be mud spots or evidences of soil or stain dilute grain alcohol never the wood variety with an equal amount of water if the stain be a bad one, or with three times the amount of water If Just for ordinary cleansing, and sponge the skirt all over with this. Contrary to the general opinion and nsag, freshening purposes ammonia should never be used on silk, as the alkali will assuredly weaken the vegetable fibre and aid In Its early destruction. The Drnt Shield Is an Item that Is all to woefully neglected by the average dressmaker 00 this side of the Atlantic Far otherwise is It In Paris and London, where the number and variety of those attached aids to daintiness are far in excess of those seen here. So many elderly women perspire freely la the back and along the arms that especial shields are used abroad Just to obviate the ravages along those points. Light as gossamer, the protecting little pieces are tacked down the back of the waist, and In the elbow crease of the sleeves, as well as in the more usual armsize. Even good dressmakers here slight the sewing in of the dress shield. To be accurately and acceptably applied for where it is needed at all It Is required to stay firmly in place without chance of crumbling up Into an ineffectual ball under the arm, and adding to the chances of what It is supposed to prevent fiv stitcbings on the outside and three on the sleeve side of the shield are necessary. Several brands of shields oa the market indicate the sewing point by little stars, and another brand shows a slight little dip In the shield at Just those points. To finish off tfa thread

Dressed Woman.

Make Perfection in the Toilette, when sewing such In a waist always wtM a French knot around the needle and draw the thread firmly through. Then there is no fear of slipping or ripping. Velvet chapeaax, snaeh brplanH, are the order of the day for all ceremonious appearances. In cities and town where dust covers everything several times a day the care of the bat and Its plumes becomes a matter of moment. It were well to go to a man's hatter and procure one of those soft little brushea that are made especially for bats. If yon have not already got one. This should be kept for hats' alone, and not used for other cleansing purposes. When every bit of dust has been flicked out with this brush and the plumes will need It Just as much as the bat go over the whole with a piece of mourning crape. When the plumes have lost their curl albeit uncurled plumes are among the very latest fancies from Paris either lay the bat where the draft from the hot air furnace will reach the plumes, er else ro to the kitchen fire, and, throwing a handful of salt on the top of the clear red coals, shake the bat and plumes briskly above this until the flues neg:n to curl nnder softly. Cro4 Straps are finding a renewal of favor in the latest models. Crossing from the shoulders In the front and back of the waist, they are highly effective, and several uses are found for them on a skirt, either circular, sored or paneled. Faaclaatlaa- Little Opera Bosi. The younger section of society hava taken up the matter of evening hoods with enthusiasm, and the best shops ar showing a bewildering variety of those effective little possessions In countless materials and designs. That there Is something especially fascinating about the covering for the bead la conjunction with the evening wrap none of the daughters of Eve will deny. From the woolen affairs that were " t fasrlnators so long ago and doubtless they fulfilled their mission In their day and time down to the exquisitely dainty affairs that well merit that same name today, womankind has always apprecla' I their effectiveness, and the men nave not been slow to acknowledge their charm, too. The daloty little exemplar ef all 1 fa ta one that can be readily repeated by any girl at all gifted with good taste and a trifle of skill with the needle. The foundation of pale pink China silk la in two pieces, that for the hood being an exact semicircle, the one side absolutely, flat and straight and the other rounded. The cape part Is merely a pllsse piece of the siik. overlaid with chiffon, and this la turn overlaid with a dotted Brussels net. The hood part has the rounded side with a casing through which a running string la drawn, the cape being attached to the straight line. White chiffon Is shirred over this to hang In loose baggy folds, a tacking stitch here and there coufinlag Its looseness. The front la trinmed with a double pllsse of chiffon next the face, then a row of ribbon edge net and the chiffon again over this, this time with a buillonne attached to the edge. Large streamers of . pale pink velvet ribbon serve to tie It at the chin and add to the roseate charm of the whole-