Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 31, Number 287, 12 November 1906 — Page 3

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J 4 - n J TV LI Manila, with its bastioaed and emJ y battled walla, stands on tbe spot seF iected by Legaspi at tbe mouth of the Pafiltf. It is not an inviting site, but stratgic and commercial considerations amply justified the determination of it in the Irst days of the Spanlub colony. The nastiive stone, walls erected at the close af the sixteenth century remain In a tate of remarkable preservation, and uake Manila Intramuros one of the lnest examples of medieval military irchltectnre existing. Hardly as ancient, tt equally useless with the quaint drawridftes, were the futile cannon which - ailed the embrasures, like some scarred mil fang-fews wolf honnd. . the grand oM tronghold stands a memento of braver nd better days. Stirring deeds are asso ciated with the history, and many a time has old Manila upheld the sover eignty of Spain In I'aclfle waters. These ;ray ramparts repelled Chinese and Moro lrates, Dutch and Portuguese Invaders, -efore the British forced them and capared the rlty. The heavy walla have withstood with little Injury the many earthquakes which from time to time iiave laid the Interior buildings low. Manila Intramuros is small and crowded. Its circumference of somewhat more ;han two miles Is bounded by water, on two sides the river and the bay, on tbe thers a moat. In recent years the unanltary state of the place has suggested the erasure of the walls and moat. Tbe atter, stagnant and refuse-laden, has long been a prolific source of disease. Fortunately, for archealogical reasons ;he American authorities have decided t preserve the old fortifications whilst filing In the moat and converting It Into an xtenslve flower garden. Old Manila contains tbe Spanish gov ernment and public buildings, the catheIral and 11 other churches, a number of nonaaterles, convents, colleges and slmlar ecclesiastical structures, a few retall shops and the Intermingled residences if the rich and poor. So freqnent and llsnstrons has been tho destruction by earthquake that no ancient building re mains In Its entirety, but as reinstate ment has generally followed original Hues, a the main the tout ensemble Is medieval tnd attractive to the sentimentalist. The lyglenist, however, will withhold approval rom the narrow streets and congested Iwelllngs with their lack of what we onslder ordinary sanitary conveniences. Under the Spaniards Manila Intramuros vaa a dull, somber place. There were ho cafes, theaters or other places of utertalnment. Except for an occasional villi tary review In the square or a reigious procession there was nothlug to elleve the dreary monotony f dally life. rhe early day was spent behind closed Unds. From S to 7 in tbe evening solety went calling In languid and digni fied fashion. Toward sunset all Manila gravitated to' the Lnneta, where on foot nd In carriages they circled Its oval ourse whilst listening to the strains f a military band. Here also the popuace of all classes thronged to witness he public executions, which during the agalog rebellion were of almost daily ecorrence. The condemned stood lined gainst the sea wall to be shot down by la toons of Spanish Infantry, whilst the rowd shouted vivas, some In sympathy I:h the authorities, others in fear of hem. The streets of the city were badly paved nd the sidewalks, overhung by the upper toties of the houses, were In many places o narrow to admit of the passage of -o pedestrians abreast. I-atnps, supplied

viia rocaioui on or Kerosene, inuuequate- . y servel to light thethorouchfares,- pBff'ccuijl--.Ux anje..Sot.ia, successive

ie police regulations were strict and ood order prevailed within the walls. be fire department, which is now nnder blef Bonner, one of the best in the ast, was then a very crude Institution 1th the most primitive equipment. lames have frequently destroyed large ortlon of the city. A private residence Is seldom more than o stcries'Jn height, nor. Indeed, do the Tblic buDiHojis often exceed that altiide. The grouud floor of the former Is :wnys given over to the servants or used a coachhouse. The residence proper the second ffoor. A broad staircase ads from the ground to a spacious hall, illed the cafda. Giving off from this e th:; reception and dining rooms and :teuding along the inner sides of these se sleeping apartments. Tbe kitchen. Uhrooni. etc.. are In an adjoining yard

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j. A . - , . 7n the aotea and are reached by a covered passageway. The walls of the lower floor are of heavy stone, with barred apertures and massive door, having a prisonlike appearance. Since the great earthquake of 1SSO the use of stone In the upper structures has, for the sake of public safety, been forbidden. Now the second stories are constructed of wood, often with a roof of corrugated Iron. The entire outer wall is fitted with sliding windows, glazed with opaque oyster shell, which, whilst admitting a subdued light, obstructs the rays of the sun. to a greater extent than would glass. Old Manila never had any kind of sewerage rystem. The private arrangements of residences were fearfully unsanitary. The drainage of honses was carried Into the river or moat, and not a little of it escaped by way of the streets." All this is being rectified as rapidly as possible and the walled city may become In time a tolerably healthful, if not a pleasant. ! place in which to live. The Cathedral and palace face on what was the public square. The former dates from ISSO, when the great earthquake destroyed its predecessor. Until recently the ruins lay In Juxta position to the new building, a speaking evidence of tinhabitual procrastination of the Spaniard The Cathedral, like most large building liable to the effect of seismic forces, 1 flat and devoid of upper structures. It derives, nevertheless, a certain beauty and granduer from Its noble proportions and simple lines. The foundations were laid at the time of the creation of the archleplscopate. In 135)5, but several edifices have occupied the site since then. In the days, and they extended over the greater period of Spanish rule, when the church overshadowed the civil authority In the Islands, the Cathedral represented the political and social power of the colony. It was the starting point of almost laily religious processions designed to Impress the proletariat. Saints' days were more numerous than .work days In old Manila, and, the lower classes delighted In the cheap amusement that wound up at right with a gorgeous display. Hundreds of men. women and children, bearing lighted candles, paced In single file down either side of the street, whilst bands of music came down the center, preceding groups of priests escorting Images of the Virgin Mary and the saints, borne upon the shoulders of devotees. Many of these Images were adorned with gems of priceless value, else the guard of soldiers with fixed bayonets was designed to convey a false Impression. The course of the parade was marked by the explosion of bombs and rockets at frequent intervals. ' The palace of the governors general has butWing-a. since the earliest days of the city. The present structure, a large and Imposing building with spacious apartments, dates from IS63. when earthquake destroyed the previous building. A fine, broad stairway gives access to the second floor, on which, after the custom of the country, are all the ZlTln,; and reception rooms. A splendid ball. 10O feet in length and half as broad, with lofty celling and parquetry floor, has been the scene of many stately functions. The walls are hung with life-nze paintings of former governors genera and other Spanish celebrities. The council chamber looks out upon the square, and many an anxious gathering has watched the excited mob from its windows. The room is furnished with large, beautifully carved table and icavy ch.ilrs bearing the royal amis. In the angle of the city walls, which

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irf ; coincides with the point of Juncture of the river and the bay, stands the historic Fortress of Santiago, which during the centuries has guarded the slumberous city lying to the south of it. This citadel, which originated In a rude stockade, was the first fortified position held by the Spaniards on the !sland of Luzon. It was here that Salccdo made his gallant stand against U Ma Hung s barbarian band, and ofttimas since has Santiago borne the brunt of a' hostile attack upon Manila. If rumor is to be credited, the dungeons of the fortress, below water level, have witnessed the most fearful atrocities pracci-ed by the Spanish jailors upon their hapless prisoners. In times of disturbance the place has often been crowded far beyond its capacity, and many a suspect has cheated the garrote or escaped the bullet by dying prematurely in the damp ani dismal dungeons of Santiago. Its prison roll contains many illustrious names. Three governors have languished for weary years within Its walls; an archbishop nursed his wrath In one of Its cells and a Sultan of Sulu. together with his family, are Included la the list. North and south the city has extended in suburbs, from which the cramped conditions f Manila Intramuros are generally absent, although In the natfve sections the poorer people herd together la unnecessary proximity to one another. For many years previous to the American occupation the residence of the governorgeneral has been without the walls and most of the well-to-do occupied commodious villas) with surrounding gardens. and open to the breezts from the sea. Erraita and Malate, along the waterfront south of the walled city, are the most attractive of the residential suburhs. and they are easily accessible now that 40 miles of modern electric railway have supplanted the old pony tramway that afforded such rapid transit as the city could bodst of. Binondo, on the right bank of the river. Is the trading center of Manila and the seat of all Its life and bustle. Here are i

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J) AND v.' t the warehouses and offices of the foreign 2rms, and the principal shopping streets. During the business hours the thoroughfares of Binondo are crowded with pedestrians and vehicles. The rattle of wheels, the labor song of coolies, the shouts of hackdrivers and the clang -of the cars, afford a striking contrast to the solemn stillness of the streets of the walled city.' The principal retail street Is the Escolta, whose shops will compare favorably with those of another Eastern city. They are conducted by Europeans, Americans or mestizos, and the stocks of goods are surprisingly complete, but Manila will not be satisfied until she has one of our modern department stores, which would un doubtedly do a profitable business. A ! large portion of the Escolta was burnt out in 1SS.", and the site of the old buildings is now occupied by a handsome block containing the central postofHce. telegraph office and some fine shops. Chinese dealers are to be found everywhere, but the center of their retail trade Is the Rosario. a street which they occupy exclusively. Their stores are of the oriental bazar type and are not patronized extensively by the better classes. The Chinese are the shoemakers, cabinetmakers and smiths of the community, besides following, many other occupations, and always with success. The principal manufacturing Industry is clgarmaking. which has. however, suffered something of a setback since the American occupation, owing to the contraction of the Spanish market without any compensating opening in the United States. There are 20,0X or more cigarmakers in Manila, most of whom are women and girls, and a large proportion f these Chinese mestizos. Some of the factories are very large and employ as many as 2.000 hands each. The native suburb of Tonuo is one of the plague spots with which the American authorities have had to deal vigorously. Formerly this section was occupied by closely pacsed, ramshackle shanties. In which the natives herded un

4 -S-v der disease-provoking conditions. Open ditches, crisscrossing amongst the huts, served for gutter and sewer alike. In the rains several Inches of water stood beneath these dwellings for weeks at a time. And In these filthy surroundings a great deal of the washing of the Europeans was done. Sanitary tenementhouses are fast displacing these disease spots, a good water and sewer system is Installed, and the streets are properly graded and drained. In fact, Manila Is rapidly undergoing a complete transformation. It is doubtful if much can be done to Improve the crowded state of the city within the walls, but it has already been rendered fairly healthful. and since the installation of the electric railroad there Is little need" for anyone to live in it. But the visitor to the Philippines today sees signs of the reformative measures before he clears the custom-house and evidences of them present themselves at every turn in the streets. It Is the design of the present administration to make the capital of the Philippines the model city of the Orient, and to that end Mr. D. H. Burnham and Mr. Peirce Anderson were employed by the commission to construct plans embracing not only Internal improvements, but the entire rearrangement of the water front. Their designs contemplate a readjustment of the streets, which will entail the desirable destruction of many narrow and tortuous thoroughfares and the establishment of a system of fine, broad boulevards. An ample macadamized driveway will extend all the way along the ea front from the x'aslg to Cavite Point mad rival the famous Apollo Bunder of Bombay or the 5Tarina of Madras. The plan Includes commodious and handsome public buildings and makes ample provision for parka and playgrounds. A lumber of model schoolhouses. the first of the kind to be erected In the East, are la course of constriction. Instead of dredging the shallow water front, it is the Intention to fill it In and on the made ground to pat new docks and

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warehouses and a number of handsome buildings. Government offices will occupy the present Luneta and the pteasance will be carried westward on to the made ground. One of the finest hotels In tbe East will stand on the edge of the New Luneta. Half a mile farther south the. residence of the governor and a row of clubhouses will face tbe bay. When these alterations are completed, Manila will, undoubtedly, be one of the most beautiful cities In the world. But tbe first efforts of the commission have, with marked success, been directed towards the Improved sanitation of the city. An extensive system of sewerage. sufficient for a population of half a million that is, double that of the present is now being laid at an expense of ?3,000,000. The water supply has been increased and improved and crematories for the consumption of garbage have been Installed. The accumulated filth of centuries has been removed and the streets are now cleaned with dally regularity. The result of these measures is already in evldenc In the recorded bill of health of Manila, which compares favorably with that of large cities the world over, and Is better than that of large centers on tbe continent of Asia. t The hospital, police and flr services are In marked contrast with those maintained by the Spanish government, which was so thoroughly permeated with "graft" that only a small proportion of the funds designed for public Improvements ever filtered throurh the fingers of greedy ofllclals. Whilst energetically pushing these measures for the general benefit of the population, the administration has engaged in Important works looking to tbe enhancement of the commerce of the country. Under Spain the trade of the Islands was never fostered. Removable physical obstacles were allowed to continue, monopolies were permitted and unnecessary legal restrictions were Imposed. With one of the finest harbors in tbe world, Manila was allowed to remain one of the least Inviting ports In the Orient. If a vessel needed repairs entailing docking, it was necessary to take It to Hongkong. I'ort dues were excessive and subject to arbitrary discrimination. The Bay of Manila Is so expansive as to afford little harborage in severe storms. Vessels have frequently been torn from their anchorage and blown ashore. During the course of many years the port authorities exacted dues which were ostensibly Intended to furnish tbe means of building a breakwater. Several millions of dollars were collected for the purpose, but nothing more than a scrap of sea wall ever materialized and that reproach to a venal government was pitifully obliterated by the elements some years ago. Ships drawing In excess of 13 feet of water could not go Into the river, but required to anchor nt about two miles from the shore. Cargoes were transferred in lighters, and as this could only be done in fair weather, delays, sometimes running into a week or 10 daye, were Incurred, Involving wasteful demurrage charges, in addition to the unusual expense of the method of transfer. It Is needless to say that under such conditions, masters, who had any freedom of choice, shunned Manila, and the port lost much trade that It would otherwise have en.oyed. Manila Is passing from this position of disadvantage to that of one of the Kings On Their Although nis Majesty King Edward VII. Is the ruler of fhe British Empire, several of his loyal subjects are kings on their own account and are as autocratic as the Czar of Russia. These are tbe fortunate owners of islands round the coast, many of which are exempt from rates and taxes and sometimes beyond tbe sphere of the parliamentary legislation. Just now the most prominent of these miniature monarchies Is Lundy, In the Bristol Channel. As It Is for sale, every ambitious millionaire has an opportnnity to become Its ruler. Devonshire folk call the island the kingdom of heaven because its" present owner is the Rev. Hudson G. Heaven, overlord of 1,200 acres and some 40 souls. He resides at the Villa, a granite-built mansion commanding a magnificent view of tbe bay and surrounded by hills. Unlike many of the other private kingdoms Lundy Is beautiful, though Isolated, a fitting contrast to the Isle of Man. over which Mr. W. Cary, the son of Colonel Cary, the well-known American, reigns. Tbe latter is an almost barren land, chiefly celebrated for rabbits and rats and a remarkable echo, called Into being by the sirens of excursion steamers. Lundy's staple Industry Is agriculture, some 400 acres being rented by one farmer. Here bullocks, sheep, goats and horses are raised. Granite was once quarried, but the works have long since fallen npon evil days, although the mineral is of excellent quality. Much of the Thames embankment Is built of it. The manor farmhouse is close to St. Helen's Church, a singularly fine structure for so small a kingdom, and the one and only place of worship on tbe Island, and when sailors have to make an en forced stay In the neighborhood, owing to adverse winds and other circumstances. It Is made to do service as a readingroom. The tower Is a fine specimen of the sculptor's art. and the staloed g'asa windows are fit to grace any church. The present Lord of Lundy succeeded to tbe sovereignty of the Island on the death of his father. Sir Vere Hnnt Bark. Its previous proprietor, picked It op for a mere song at a London auction, so the story goes, the auctioneer declaring that the island "never paid either tax or tithe; that It acknowledged neither king nor parliament, clvji or ecclesiastical. Its proprietor is pope and emperor at once la his own scanty domain." As a matter of fact, the Rev. Hudson G. Heaven's rule is absolute, and nobody can be married or buried without his consent. Tourists who wish to land cannot do so nn'ess he gives consent, which, however, is seldom If ever refused. Romance lingersabout Lundy Island. Some years ago the remains of giant, eight feet two Inches la height, were discovered, while a companion skeleton was only

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safest and most convenient ports in tb Pacific. The Insular government has projected ft series of extensive Improvements, which inclnde tbe construction of an effective breakwater, an ample system of docks and a deep-water approach. Vessels will soon discharge and ship their cargoes at the wharves, and drydocks at Cavite will offer all the necessary facilities for repairs. This effort to enable Manila to profit to the full by her natural advantages Is well Judged and the money invested will unquestionably yield a splendid return In tbe Increased trade that must flow from these facilities and tb operation of the railroads In course of completion. With the opening of the Panama Canal the trade route between the Atlantic ports of America and the mainland of Asia will be ' changed and much of the freight which Is now boru to tbe latter points from Europe by way of the Sues Canal may be expected to take the Pacific course. Manila will then lie In the main route of Eurasian traffic, and not a small proportion of the collecting and distributing trade of Hongkong should b diverted to her. More than half the people of the glob are In commercial proximity to the Philippines. A large number of these people are not at present within the established zones of the world's traffic, but tbe opening up of new systems of transportation is constantly bringing extensive arens into trade relations with other countries. In this fact lies the great opportunities of the Philippines. Many of their products, present and potential, are of the kind that find a ready market in seml-clvlllzed communttes. China, the first and always tbe beat customer of thet Philippines. Is on tbe eve of great commercial development. Already she Is In the position of demanding more of the products of the archipelago than she is receiving. She Is consuml 'f a constantly Increasing quantity of Philippine sugar, and her demand for the Insular lumber, now In excess of the present ability to supply it. must expand with the extension of Chinese railroad construction and the subsidiary operations. As her Industries develop, China will need Manila hemp and Philippine coal, aud It Is not Improbable that, with a little encouragement, the Island may. In a few years, be able to supply her with nuantities of clothing material aud yarns. On the other band, the people of the Philippines, as they convert ever Increasing areas of paddyland to more profitable uses, will look to China for greater quan- . titles of rice. It Is- not only to China that tbe Philippines need to turn for trade. Japan and other countries will afford desirable markets when the renc-rcea of the archipelago are scientifically developed. It should be remembered that the Philippines have only recently entered the commercial arena of the world. The port of Manila was opened to foreign trade lesa than SO years ago and only within the last decade, has tbe trade of the islands been free of hampering restrictions. The banlc conditions are exceptionally favorable and with their evolution we msv expect to see the Philippines grow Into one of the most prosperous countries of the Eastern Hemisphere. C. II. FORBES-LINDSAY, Own Account. slightly smaller. A wily menSber of Parliament bargained with tbe state to transport convicts to Virginia for price and then sent them to Lundy and there made them work to his advantage. Pirates and smugglers found the Isolated spot go, for their trades. It sheltered the wouldbe murderers of Henry III. and Edward II., and -on more than one occasion it fell Into the bands of marauders. Today the shore affords an excellent anchorage for vessels, as many as JV having been there at the same time, rnit a wreck off Lundy- Is not at all an unusual thing, more particularly In winter and early spring. It being In the "wreck radius" of the Bristol Channel. The lighthouse is a conspicuous object, and its revolving light, 540 feet above high water, can be seen 30 miles. There Is no hourly delivery of letters, the postmaster calling once a week, there being a fortnight despatch of mails. The Isle of Man comprises some 900 acres, with a coast line of five miles. A former proprietor bad to fight long and valiantly for his diminutive kingdom owing to an attempt made to tax the Inhabitants. Taking tbe matter to the House of Commons his rebellions way were upheld and not a penny has since been collected by taxgatherers. Tbe two lighthouses on tbe Island are property of the owner, who claims all wreckage which may come In his way. KING OF TIIE SOLLY ISLANDS The Sctlly Inlands are made up of n fewer than 140 separate is'ands, and over Treseo, the most Important of the group, Mr. T. A. Smith-Dorien reigns supreme. It Is not quite a quarter of a century ago that the Sell Ion la us took to supplying their brothers and sister on the mainland with daffodils and narci&sas, of which between &J0 and 600 ton were exported during the first four months of the year. Sometime as much as 35 ton a day are picked, packed and sent off when the season is at its height. What wealth tbe Inhabitants of the island may possess Is practically the product of the flower farm which more than rivals in beauty and quality the bloom of the Dutch and Belgian growers. Snowdrops, wallflowers and stocks are also grown and sold for profit. Seilly In the spring Is a veritable twentieth century edition of tbe garden of Eden. Tbe island have played their part In the making of history, for they are supposed to have been the Cassiterid of the Greek and tbe Siliinae of tbe Romans. During tbe seventeenth century they sheltered Prince Charl- for a short time and were captured by Admiral Biaite. If cork 1 unk to a depth of 200 feet In the sea It will not rise again to the surface, owing to the great pressure of the water. At any less depth it will rise-