Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 31, Number 286, 11 November 1906 — Page 5

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then is Still in the Lead - Ciever Designs airs Headgear Especially Attractive - Charming Garments in Rain-Proof Cloths that Will Serve Also For Street Use.

it with fasblon hlelnp itself to the land fo.r the winter months, and to the ant i nun months at all of the re that a: e situated on and arouna i and L ixon's line, the modes and - ofTereif! for auto use during trie r wenth I r take In well-nigh erery ue of thi wardrobe. mountain resorts of the Virginia -arollna I have learned that it Is to the tr Interests to promote the of good roads In their neighborhood., hat seesiion of society which protes the resort habit they merely m one ?sort to another, according season, ' and keep their names cony In the jewspapers as being proralererywhf re, from the forests of In Mid iimmer to Miami at midr are taU ing eiithn.siastleally to the' car as a 1 means of getting from one to anott 'or, entirely Ignoring the ids and encountering few. If any. discoraf. rts of travel by the way. modern touring car is so fitted up k is possi 1 le to do almost everything ut sleep. One recently shown at a s carrla; j emaker'a had a seating r aof sev i n sis and the chauffeur. ritlre ca-r Is Inclosed In q flint glass; . DacK contains flat lockers built the p: inellng, containing mirror. ne and toilet articles on one side. ie othr t has an entire tea equipage, cesaai y utensHs in white enameled and ven n little enameled closet. an In dependent drainpipe, for Ice. r to : a TuIImaa car are the devices tainl og a steady table and serving eshin g cup of tea while on the road. expe rlenced and enthusiastic autoist th two adjec tives ore usually ynioi is has made-a study of the s qu estion. both from the travel and rlva 1 standpoints. For winter wear are nny number of really beautiful its offered, and the entire range-of pelts that the market otters Is taken tage of for auto traveling. 'ran v, where ail the roads are good here are a thousand-and-one . agreetrlps to be made, the automobile are ti clas totally and distinctly fr"nri. the other furry possessions of Hhlonrbte wardrobe. Sables, chinem tine and other such regal furs nsktered altogether too dressy to rn o n a touring car: their appointed Is for formal social functions, the ge i' the ITots or for afternoon calls. we ring when on a motor tour Is ere J a display of Ignorance and had whlcli the woman with an apprei fit the eternal fitness of things nver find herself suilty of. d to this, the flying dust of the for the Eu.nean car Is seldom d tn g!;ss. as is the American one eu nowadays: and. added to which. lioiate In which tours are made in rtime Is of summery balmlness is to cut into delicate pelts like chinno It Is those of more -leathery that are chosen for the hard work kear of the motor tour. -pend the winter In a Southern tour plan of many a wealthy family. e en plin air the outdoor life is ieal one: and there is nothing that to this so iitui ii as does the motor, the wealthy lady who arrived tn ern France to spend the winter. .-uuled her maid Hie moment she ato her rooms: "Marie, open the w3 wide and iet in the climate!" Situate was Just what she was payr, and she purposed to have it. So the auto. The winter tour is for ie to get away from the cold the penetrating dampness of the arid all the unyli ns.intr,-!-s of r weather, and hence clothes and are planned with this in full view. iian jnitiy is to be had this seasoa o a good black by the l,eips':e dyers, st time that it has come in an ae!c shade. This pelt is capable of ess adaptations t the hands of a maker; aid. ,n spite of Its coarse it makes up really smart garments. hears a :re4:t deal about squirrel relegated to the rear of the fashion sioii; but, like so many other ruthere is but a modicum of truth and at deai of nesswork about this, it !s that the lesser grades of sji:ir.e cutircly discredited, since they

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V in have proved anything but satisfactory. The process of curing was cheapened to such. an extent that the value of the fur decreased, and It suffered from the overpopularity that the cheapening process always brings in its irain. Far otherwise Is it with the dark and thic'-t Siberian sauirrel. This is by no means an Inexpensive pelt, when the best ones are taken Into consideration. Of course. It does not stand in the same class as does mink or chinchilla, but compared to the domestic squirrel, the Siberian one Is a high-grade fnr. The delightful-garment that illustrates this page is created In deep and deuse Siberian squirrel, a pelt that is as thickly furred as beaver. yVnat one might term the more spectacular furs those of vivid markings, such as civet, leopard, sea lion and such are reaching a t degree of favor that hardly Beemed to be thelra In the earlier part of the season. The eye has to become accustomed to the somewhat unwonted designs and the onaccustomed colorings; but now civet, with its conventional and almost mathematical markings. Is right in the forefront of fashion, while the other pelts alluded to are scarcely less modish. Where furs are not required, then there are some charming models in griffonette cloth and other rainproof fabrics. It is also claimed for those that they are windproof as well, a decided advantage where one encounters wind all along the route. While the furs are distinctly of the auto type, the other garments are equally well suited to street wear or for other "purposes. Indeed, when well selected, they may be made to take the place of the indispensable raincoat. Hoods are quite a feature of the later modes, and quaint and becoming are they likely to prove. They are one aud all of them made to match the coat, and are appl'ed with suap fasteners to the high choker collar that is an accepted part of an auto garment. The Frenchwoman makes her hood a permanent part of the wrap, lettiug it hang over the shoulders, a la Capucine, when not needed to cover up head or hat; a little feature of fashion that it would be just as well to follow on this side of the water. Hoods a Convenient Accompaniment. Throe extremely fetching designs are displayed in this picture, all of them widely differing in essential details aud yet with a certain degree of the- same charm attaching to all. The left figure carries a very smart coat in leather, one of the new tannings In which the leather is left just as flexible as one's kid glove, and yet maintains all of its stout serviceability, and its wind and rain proof quailtil's unimpaired. Here, too, the yoke is made use of to achieve the flat, smooth setting over the shoulders, while the lower part of the coat is as full as comfort demands or fashion permits. The hood is attached with snap fasteners to the standing collar, so that it may instantly be released when it is not desired to use It. or it may be left hanging over the shoulders in the style that smart French women iavor at present. A plaid silk is used to line the coat and hood both, the gay coloring making a pretty itnpresslou in the shirrings over the face. The standing figure on the right wears one of the new rosewood colored griffonttte cloths, this being a brown with strong hints of red in its composition, end tpec;i;y attractive in this wind and rain proof el'tth. Here the hood is cleverly managed with a cape collar that sets s-iuarely ou the shoulders, finished wi:h ta piped and scalloped edges that are one of the latest freaks of fashion. The coat itsseif foliovrs the new -style in, outdoor wraps and raincoats, the fulness le!ted in at the waistline, and . with, conreuient . pockets on either side of the front. The seated Egnre In the center carries a rainproof mohair garment, the hood made in this In a totally different way and attached with straps that fasten witb fancy buttons around the high collar. Ail of the coats are lined with a g.tyly p!iled silk which peeps out becoaiinriy from the frame of the hood.

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f T - '-f 2 2 i-v" '5 - 1 ,s - v J A Fetching Auto Chapeau, One of the prettiest pieces of headwear for automobile use is this smart tailored design from Phipps, a maker who has Introduced more bewitching specialties for outdoor wear than almost any other. A French felt of exceeding fineness and softness is used, It being one of those affairs that may be crumpled up and carried in the pocket without In the least interfering with the smartness of the shape or its appearance when it Is puTed out and worn on the head. One of the new turban shapes is presented, this managed with a point in front, and the trimming so arranged on the sides that it points toward the back, an excellent device for auto wear, since It then .offers no resistance whatsoever to the wind while speeding, or even going at a moderate pace. Thick pleated rosettes of double white chiffon are posed on either side where the brim is caught np close to the crown, a white felt strap and a round mother of pearl buckle seeming to hold those rosettes in place. The veil isattached to the hat back of those rosettes, and is so draped that it covers the hair entirely in the back, being brought around the neck and tied In front in soft folds that cannot fail to prove a becoming frame for. any style of face or features. The Experienced Tourist Favors Leather. For the many uses of the road, for fair weather and foul, the experienced autoist has thoroughly proven that there is nothing like leather after all. Of course, in summer time it is wonc to prove a trifle too warm when one Is on the ground; but the current of air created by the car whea in motion makes It welcome on even the warmest day. For winter wear there Is a disposition to line the leather coat with some one or another of the less expensive furs, squirrel or muskrat, for example; and such is the mode followed in the garment that forms the subject of illustration. The coat is of the semifltted variety, back and sides setting to the figure with the usual number of seams; while the doublebreasted fronts are managed with a single dart either side of the fastening. Over the hips there is a smart fitted basquine, a stitched leather belt serving to hide the joining seam and add much to the appearance of the garment as well. The skirt Is managed In two parts, the upper one fitted closely to the figure and gored to shape; while the lower Is? in the form of a circular flounce, applied to the top with a fancy scalloped edge, many rows of machine stitching adding to the trimming effect of this device. Smart Surtont in Cfvet With Lynx Collar and CnfT. The extreme of Tohamlnousness which marks the later mode is well expressed in this very smart surtout or allover wrap. A bias seam down the center back makes for a very pretty arrangement In the welldefined markings of the far, this pwwHStas for the required fulness and bringing the fur markings on a straight line for the fronts and sides. The civet Is one of those furs that are so marked by nature as to appear somewhat couspieuoas for dress purposes, onless toned down with the addition of some other pelt or trimming device. Like most other Innovations of fashion, the eye requires to be trained to its acceptance; and while there was but little If, Indeed, any appreciation expressed for It when first presented, it has won for Itself a place In th catalogue of things modish

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I 2 . . v Hi I'M for carriage and automobile wear. The garment presented shows all of the modish features of current fashion. The cut Is loose and full, and the sleeve is large enough to cover up the friiliest creation of the dressmaker without crushing it in the least. The broad shawl collar of. plain black lynx Is so arranged that It may be turned up about the ears when desired, and the plain band cuffs are of the same fur. The cap is of dark brown suede, with a hood attachment that goes on with snap fasteners, aud is caught beneath the chin with ribbon strings. It is, of course, expected that a face veil of some modish mesh be used to protect the complexion from the assaults of the wind and flying dust. Empire Coat In Cnrncnl and Lynx. Fashion is- Indebted to the automobile specialists or, rather, to those who make specialties of furnishing correct automobile garb for some of the cleverest and most attractive Ideas for general wear that the season has furnished. For exr ample, the smart surtout in caracul, one of. the season's most fashionable furs. The necessity for the full-length garment is Insisted upon by those who have experienced the discomforts of short jackets when on tour, except the rugs be likewise of fur or fur lined. . ' The empire mode Is followed, the body part of the coat being of the plain and full-yoke shape, setting closely over the shoulders, but so cleverly cut that the side seams stand well away from the figure rather than hugging it closely. To this the full skirts are applied, those latter following a circular cut, and this fulness Increased by means of a circular flounce that is attached to the lower edge, this still further increasing the fulness. To conceal the joining seam where skirt and body part are connected there is a loose belt In sheared lynx, while the huge rever collar and the fiat-band cut! that serves to confine the fulness of the large sleeve are of the full-length lynx fur. a pelt that has risen to considerable esteem as a trimming accessory for the short-haired furs this season. Dark Siberian Squirrel. One hears much ia these latter days that squirrel Is placed among the discredited pelts, that fashionable folk have turned their backs upon it, and that the best furriers are not making up designs to be carried out In this. Well, like most other rumors, there is a modicum - of truth to a great deal of guesswork In this. The real state of the case is that the cheaper grades of squirrel have proven so unsatisfactory from several points of view that the best makers know that their best designs will not prove acceptable in this fur. Like all other pelts. It is the darker and better grades that fetch a high price, and in Siberiau squirrel the rich and dense dark gray pelt, with a faint stripe of a darker tone dom xh

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K-1 7v if I 1 i i ill V .1 jfar ... j , - ' ' 1 .3! i ' (5 M fc.U fc' - t sx:z ? 1 -. (i center back approaching a brown tint the demand is as good as ever. The fetching garment pictured makes use of those densely thick and dark skins, in which the backs only, with their semiindistinct stripe In the center, are used. Those are by the art of the furrier made to assume a wavy line in the joining, a feat that adds much to the beauty of the coat. They meet in a V point In the center back, the coat describing a becoming fulness by this means. The fronts are double breasted, aud the shawl collar is of the rollover variety that may be turned up around the ears when desired. The sleeve follows a plain coat pattern, the wavy markings of the fur at this point matching the coat exactly, and a little turnover cuff, that may be rolled down over the hands in muSf fashion, is a pretty finish. Like most others of the best designs, there is a flounce finish to the garment that adds much to Its appearance: The stripes of the fur are placed lengthwise here, the contrast to the rest of the coat being quite in accordance with the latest mode. Tree Bluslies Wken it Rains. Among the many wonders of the vast Florida swamps there is nothing more surprising than the blushing tree. This tree Is not common. It is only found iu the densest thickets of those Interminable marshes whose luxurious vegetation Is a revelation to explorers. It actually blushes when the rain falls upon It. This phenomenon at first seems Incomprehensible. It never fails to astound those who see It for the first time. The mysterious and beautiful glow of co"or which it assumes In a rainstorm baffles description. The Seminole Indians, who once ruled Florida, have always known of the tree, and have. In their musical language, called It "the maiden tree, which reddens at the coming of her lover, the rain." When the coo! rain drenches the tree a changing of color Is noted. Gradually, yet unmistakably, the green hue gives way to pink. In a few minutes the green fades from sic '.it- Only ou a few half-hidden spots beneath the broad branches and on its trunk is there a tinge of green to be seen. The tree is as pink as the cheek of a heaithy girl. An hour or more after the shower passes the wonderful tree assumes Its familiar green once more. As It Is changing back to emerald the spectator suddenly realizes the secret of the phenomenon. Certain tiny insects, and not the tree itself, change color. These peculiar parasites are possessed of the power of the chameleons. Ia the bright, warm sunshine they are greener than the tree n which they live. But when the chill rain fails upon them they contract their tiny backs and become a pretty pins in color. Millions of these change the tint, of the t uJ iiaaart to It a blushing tsfect.

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A p . T s. - (.'jw.' J. ; -j7..? . ... - "7- . i it; ft VTiere Fashion Smart Effects Seen in the Froelin of Filmy Tnlle, or, rather, of tulline, the new fabric that the dressmakers claim will replace tulle altogether, are the latest fad for dinner and dancing purposes. Not the usual black or white or combinations of those two. Not at all! The correct thing is to have one of those copper shades of brown, a dense, smoky gray, or the chartreuse or absinthe tints of green. And on this glittering spangles, paillettes and metallic embroideries that match in tone are lavished. The Parisian maker, who usually disregards the matter of expense when constructing a masterpiece, is wont to pile three aud even four layers of this filmy stuff, one over the other, the tint either lightening considerably or ele becoming denser and deeper as the foundation is reached, according to the effect he wishes to produce. That the result Is charmingly soft and airy goes without saying, and the best makers on this side are taking orders for those attractive confections with a rush that threatens to swamp their workrooms. , The Extreme in Collar Is the correct mode of the moment. Either the neck covering touches the ears or else it Is cut so low as to display fully the slender column of the throat from base to chin. The newest wriDkle, too, builds it up at the back when the high collar Is desired, and little rabbits" ears are added to either side of the back fasteniug of course, they all fasten In the back so that the scolding locks at the back of the coiffure are hidden. Far TrlmmlRK were never in such modish consideration as at the present moment.' One sets small, but none the less effective, bands of fur on fny and everything in the wardrobe, from a chiffon matinee to a - tulle ball gown. Upon the tailor-made it Is especially well placed. Short-walsted directoire waistcoats In fur, a collar and cuff, and some little scraps or bands upon the skirt will lift even a ready-made cloth gown Into the realm of smart possessions. Dyed caracul is vastly a ravorlte, and deservedly so, as th!. skin, in its original creamy tint will' take well nigh any shade of dye. The smoky browns and grays, however, are the only ones favored by good taste. This scribe has a vivid recollection of the figure of fun presented some few seasons ago by a seir-eiecteil rasti'.on authority of New York. With hair dyed to a brilliant carroty shade, her street gown was of a screamingly bright purple; and this was adorned wih neveral rows of Thi!et fur the long and silky fringed kind that is oftentimes used for bsby's coat trim mings dyed to match the pnrple cloth. That she was the cynosure of all eves when she walked abroad there !s no de nying; but, shades of Oolott ISurgess and tha Purple Cow, who ever dreamed of furs dyed to this Imperial tint! Clever Utile Touches of Trimmlnic contrast assert themselves in Parisian models recently arrived. There Is evidently quite a fad for those of a brilliant mandarin yellow velvet, combined oftentimes with a dall green f absinthe coloring, and this again posed against a cold, faict-lookiag bine. The tailor is especially prne to favor this combination In connection with plaid pood and black braid; and when cleverly wrought out it is undeniably effective. The Opera Bap of the tew season Is a joy and a delight. The accepted model is one that opens out like a sc't case, and each In its appointed place., there la disclosed to view a fair of midget but powerful opera glasses,, a folding fan

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V .Js." 'f.' DotK C ongregate. Haunts of the Fashionahle that doubles np on Itself for packing, but is of goodly sine when in use; a vinaigrette, a "ttle mirror, powder puff, rouge leaves, hairpin case, and. In a concealed pocket, some pins both of th straight and safety kinds. Could anything be more complete! The outer covering Is of rich old broende, the handles composed of sterling silver chains, and the cost well, tha least expensive costs Just about the whole of a fifty-dollar bill; and. tha fan is not of real lace at that! The Xew Evenlnjr Slipper If la contrast to the low pump that has prevailed for some seasons now. The latest aspirant for fashionable favor In footwear has the vamp all In one piece, and cleverly cut in with It Is an extension piece, or tongue to use the shoemakera word that rises up over the instep. Heading, openwork, fagottlng, embroidery and what not are used, either singly or In conjunction, and the effect Is one of a reckless extravagance. That the are most fetching In wear Is perhaps sufficient reason for their cost; for they Increase the attractions of a naturally h'gu instep, and give a most flattering effect where the foot Is naturally low at this point. Floance are the favored effect for frocks for indoor wear. Anywhere from on deep one to a dozen, little ones, the frilly and fluffy effect that they produce is well liked. The skirt Is preferably fashioned with the flounces following an Irregular line, since their straight application Is likely to cut off from one's apparent height. The short sleeve, too. Is at Ita most fetching best when made of a succession of pnffy ruffles; cot banded In at the elbow, but flying open to display another set of lace ruffles set In underneath. The Japanese Kimono Is one more exerting its fascinating Influence ou fashion. The newest wrapa are all of them made with a drooping shoulder line, not quite that of th early Victorian period, a revival of which we have Just pa.Md through; but rather a broader and a better sustained' line. The new aim tIze Is quite In accordance with this, since it takps to Itself length and proportions that were altogether lacking in the Victorian affair. Some exceedingly fetching designs ar displayed In furs. In which the back and front tang la straight and loose chasuble lines. The shoulder is ao broad that It fails, perforce, a trifle over the arm, and Into this the sleeve Is Introduced, the arm size often extending the fall length of the garment, and the sleeve cut according to the original kimono pattern, so as to fUl this long-drawn-out armhole. Bewitching when worn by a young and slenderly erect figure, but ugly to an extreme when attempted by the woman who shoulder time has rounded and whose lines of grace, both above and below the walst'Ine, are things of memory end the past. The Military Mode is In high favor with those who lean to mannish fashions, and poKsess the proportions necessary to carry o?f a well-cut and close-fitting tunic Short and rigidly fitted coats, with a full complement of seams the darts adjusted from the shoulders and braided after some one or another of the accepted military designs are well liked; and those top skirts of pleated or circular cut. braided to match. A plain shirtwaist, stiff collar and mannish cravat complete the outfit, according to the present mode.

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