Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 31, Number 271, 28 October 1906 — Page 10

Hhe Newest "Modes m a Dlaze of Glory- Luxurious Elegance in tne AAraps and Gowns -Chapeaux of tlie Pic turesque Order- Furs, Featners, Jewels and Real Laces Lavisnly Use J.

Every . enop la New York, from the - great department stores, that cater to all " tastes and all classes of trade, to the exclusive specialty shops, where an Introduction is almost a necessary preliminary to a purchase, all are wakened up to concert pitch and to unwonted efforts In connection with the forthcoming horse Bhow. The horse show has come to be looked upon as the first public function where dress in all of its charming elaboration can be studied, at will and at leisure. One sees every 'grade, every rung of the social ladder represented; and the gowning, the music, the excitement, that la but barely suppressed, the entire mise en scene is one to awaken the keenest faculties of observation on the part of those who go there , to see rather than to be seen. - But to the Initiated In New York It la In the shops, la the dressmakers' ateliers. In the sem private showrooms of the great milliners that the first glimpses of horse show finery Is sought. From far and from near representative grandes dames make It a fixed date upon their social calendar 'to visit New York during horse show week at least ; and the purchase of finery for such an important occasion Is usually postponed until arrival in the metropolis. To the, favored few the dressmaker and modiste will display the triumphs of their skill, prepared for this ' or that wellknown social light; and prepared expressly for the horse show, you know," la ' usually the accompanying phrase. Elaboration run riot tersely and succinctly, expresses the leading feature of the coming mode ; and yet it speaks volumes for our home dressmakers that they almost invariably keep well within artistic limits even while pushing extravagance to Its farthest efforts. This Is a phase of the art sartorial for which the Parisians are renowned the world over ; but they will have to look sharply to their laurels If our own artists In dress continue to pursue the path they have so successfully blocked out for themselves. The smart Illustrations that accompany this page are, many of them, the work of famous Parisian houses, and yet It would task an expert to distinguish between the product of the best bouses of Paris and those of equal standing In New York. The smart set of New York deem the horse a sndcient excuse for presence at the Garden as Madison Square Garden la habitually referred to at every session, morning, afternoon and evening. The morning session attracts the ownrrs of exhibits, naturally, and since there are more women exhibitors this year than ever before, one Is bound to see some smart .gowning of . the tailor-made order at the ringside before noon. The little tots of the schoolroom and the nurery, too. come to see the little Shetland ponies and the hunters and saddle horses 'from their own stables, and the little heiresses of the future display some smart Ideas as to how the younger generation shall be drtntsed when and where the dictates of fashion are followed. Judging by what one famous French woman who caters exclusively to children is putting forth, the little ones are to be gotten up more gorgeously this year than they have been for sometime. Not that tuore is any hint or attempt at overelaboration or overdressing. It Is merely that M.-ulame Is making use of more exquisite fabrics, more costly furs, more real Inc and hand embroideries upon the garments of her little clients than she was wont to. do in the past. , All fur coats for the youngsters are quite the fad. Some exquisite full-length affairs la chinchilla nre displayed, made to the order of a young millionaire's wife for her two little daughters. Another wealthy" little dame. In prospect. Is to pport a full-length coat in ermine, and her cousin boasts of one In the no less costly but less seen minever. Pyrenean goat It is really a kidskla Is a recent comer, and although it is considered especially smart for children, the grownups have claimed It as theirs likewise. It is a pretty gray fur, not at all unilke Russian pony in texture, and with a cap mull to match for such are Impera

tive with a fur coat today It la really quite a pretty and becoming affair for the small girl, without encountering an undue .cost, either. When one comes to consider the realm of the tailor-made, the Infinite variety of styles that the tailor presents begins to be a bit bewildering. There Is absolutely no one model, or class of models, that may be said to reign. One sees short etona, both loose and fitted. There are the smart little pony jackets that are capable of Infinite variation. Short coats of Empire persuasion, too, are evident; while as for the long coats, one sees them of all shapes and sizes and lengths, fitted, eemlfltted and loose, and everything In this line, from a redlngote that displays the figure accurately to a burnous that envelopes It In soft and mysteriously disguising folds. The vogue that attends the plain cloth coat topping a plalded akirt seems bound to continue. If one la to judge by the number that are to be displayed during the coming weeks. All sorts of pretty, though sober, shades In broadcloth, or In velveteen are employed for the coat, and the skirt plaid repeats the coat color in Its dominant note. Some of the fitted coata are really a trifle suggestive of horse and habit use. Charming cutaways, with a most elaborate "waistcoat Inserted to take away the slight reproach of masculinity, are affected by some of the cleverest and most fastidious dressers. .They reproduce much of the effect of the masculine cutaway; but the glossy cloth, the smart waistcoat,, and the use of elaborate trimmings make It an essentially feminine production. The chiffon velveteens, and even corduroys, are on view In some charming shades. For the younger generation they are vastly liked In sensible colorings; braided with several widths of tressed strands, from a soutache up to a four-Inch width. Plaid braids find favor here, and In the darker colored costumes they show up to delightful advantage. . Luncheon Is quite an Important function during the horse week, and as an adjournment to the Garden Is always en regie afterwards, the gowning for the midday meal la important. The more elaborate styles prevail In the afternoons. Carriage cloaks and toilettes are much to be seen, and the charming extravagances that characterize the current mode disclose themselves here to perfection. Chiffon velvet. In delicate shades and, colorings, appears to an added advantage when associated with a picturesque chapeau and dainty ostrich or marabout boa. The muff en suite la usually carried, too; not for warmth, but rather for appearances. The greater part 01 these dainty, little muffs only the best of them are large are fashioned minus the usual down lining, so that they are really quite suitable for present as well as for futunt use. In strong contradistinction to the gowns of the morning sessions, those of the afternoon are fashioned with the skirts en traine, and there Is usually a more or less transparent top to the corsage. Lace Is abundantly used on the later styles In corsages, and hand embroideries In bold and well defined patterns decorate both bodice and skirt. Several novel . materials that ia they are novel thla year are being pushed by many. One la poplin, which we have had several times before, but It aiwaya comes back . with some new feature to commend it. The late ones, however, are seen mostly In sober, If not sombre colorings; and velvet la usually the garniture selected for thla colleen pop In when fashioned for the elder members of society. Chenille embroideries, too, appear on this favored fabric, and a touch or two of Irish crochet la quite appropriate. The short sleeve and the . long glove still maintain for dressy purposes; but in morning gowns they are being replaced by the more sensible ' and suitable full length arm covering. , Transparent half sleeves that match the yoke or corsage top In materials and make display themselves on some of the pretty afternoon gowns, especially on those of crepe de chine vhich Is now offered In what are known as tailor weights ottoman, tnarvellleux another silk that Is rvsurrecteJ from oblivion and messallne. - Some of the restaurants for workmen In Paris are conducted strictly on hygienic principles. Even the napkins are not put Into rings and allowed to touch, but. are, put Into marked pigeon . holes, and each laborer gets his own on entering.

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.Cvening Toilette. Some Exquisite Effects -Gown's Are Cut Less Low - Hats Are Considered Correct Witt Evening Dress at tne Snow, It Is after the lamps are lit, to use the old-fashioned phrase, that beauty . and fashion put on their most alluring guise. For the. dinner and afterwards Dame Fashion has prepared some of the most fascinating gowns and wraps ' that have shown themselves for many seasons. Spangled 'nets so closely covered with paillettes that the ' foundation to which they are sewn" Is hardly .suspected, much less.sgen; embroidered nets and tuillnes that seem so airily ' fragile that a single wearing might end their, usefulness; real .laces appliqued to filmy malinettes and posed over a sheer chiffon, make, one Imagine that the bold design of lace were without other foundation. Such are the effects that are most favored of 'fashion, and of their richness and charm one has but to see to understand. 1 4 Quite a modest line Is presented In the decolietage. " Some members of - smart society are. noted for their extremely low decolietage, which they wear whenever occasion offers, even the slightest excuse, or opportunity. But of such neither fashion nor good taste' approve. " Indeed, for the debutante what' one might term merely a round neck is the correct thing, and her elders in the social circle are limited to a decolietage that is but a mere trifle lower. - , - . , . - One's best bib-and tucker Is no longer a mere phrase. They are both of them actual realities brought to light once more In the historical line that the present 'modes are pursuing. ' At the first and passing glance the low-cut' bodice seems daringly low, but modesty Is appeased In the tucker of malinette that Is fastened Into the armsize and drawn softly across the front, to be fastened either In the center or at one side with the most appropriate piece of jewelry that the treasure box of madame affords. As for the bib shapes they are legion. Since they afford delightful opportunity for variation and originality small wonder is It that fashion and the dressmaker alike have welcomed them enthusiastically. In strict keeping with the continued vogue of the separate waist or -corsage, the bib that is fashioned from the Bkirt material be It mereiy the veriest hint or suggestion of such will serve to . mold the two parts Into harmony, and effect a clever contrast where, without It. would be a haphazard or a hit-or-miss effect. There is absolutely no hint of waning favor where velvets are concerned. The chiffon weaves are delighfully varied by the Introduction of moired markings, by' Peking stripes, by coin spots, discs, crescents, cubes and other devices introduced in the weave. Some charming robe designs. as those woven ready to mount are termed, are to be seen in the sheerest of chiffon failles, those showing border designs wrought In velvet that Is woven on the silk with an extra deep pile, so that it . reflects the light In a marvelous manner. Floral utunw. foliage. Greek kev deslraa of

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more or less Intrlcateness, bands that simulate graduated rows of velvet ribbon, bowknots and festooned devices are all favored. Elderly ' ladies and the I younger set 01 matrons are tasing 10 those ' with enthusiasm; and for dinner and theater costumes they assuredly present an air of luxury that Is charmingly combined with a service ability that one does not often find In such combination. Hand-painted chiffons, as they are called although they are, in truth, the very highest type of French printing come likewise ' in the bordered .effects, and the clever touch of black that the Parlsienne so universally affects Is so deftly introduced into even, the most delicate of those that admiration is compelled. - One beautiful one was displayed at an exclusive importer's the other day. The ground was white, .'sprinkled with little Sicilian, violets of the double variety at far intervals. The border was topped by a simulated festoon of pale blue ribbon; then came the background, upon which yellowish tea roses made garlands, and below that was a thick border of the Sicilian , violets posed against the white background, which showed but rarely between the - flowers. This exquisite material, was fashioned into a long coat of the short-waisted design in the back, the fronts coming but to the bust, where a waistcoat also short walsted of real lace was draped. The long folds of the coat came to the hem of the skirt train In the back, rounded up at the sides to droop again In the fronts. An Empire girdle of hydrangea bine velvet, held In place with two old brilliant paste buckles at the center back and at one side of the front, made a clever touch of contrast; and this was repeated In the band, a bias fold, that finished the edge of the skirt and made for a certain stability of "hang" to the very sheer chiffon. One sees many of those long-coat bodices in connection with gowns that are Intended for formal wear only. They are most of them of the empire persuasion,' conspicuously shor. walsted end rather scant In their, folds. The extreme of bouffancy that accompanied, this design in the days of its earlier Introduction has disappeared and a closer adherence to historical accuracy now prevails. .- As for the wraps that are to accompany those artistically gorgeous gowns, they are of the fullest and fluffiest variety. The bevette or bib designs are carried to an extreme here, and shaped tabliers that fall, from the shoulders, to ronnd up at the slit side seams, and carry any number of tiny plisse frills for their trimming effect. The sleeves to those are planned usually to show a mass of lace and chiffon, whi rippteidowir4 either side of the silt side again with froth effect.

Of Exquisite Materials and Costly Trimmings.

A Parisian Tailor-Made BY PEUDOUX. The talior-made gown fills a nicne In even the most modest wardrobe that cannot well be filled by any other type of the dressmaker's art. Whether the dress allowance be a hugely extravagant one, or the slender sum that demands much thought, and still more forethought to Its spending, the tailored production is one that cannot very well be reckoned without. An extremely clever compromise betwixt the warring factions In tailor-mades is effected iu the model of Perdoux that appears here. On the one band, the demand of the plain and severe, almost masculine, effects is observed In the slightly mannish cut of the coat: while the exigencies of the dressier type, known as the demi-tailleur, make themselves apparent In the richly- braided waistcoat, the embroidered buttons, and the extreme, though graceful.- fulness of the skirt. The vogue that attends the combination of plain and plaided goods is observed In the use of a smart shade of sapphire blue chiffon broadcloth for the coat, and a plaided broadcloth, in which this same color Is the dominant tone, for the skirt. The latter Is further enhanced by an overplaid effect in a black satin stripe, which serves to block out the squares of soft blue coloring. No touch of the plaid appears on the coat, where the revers are faced with black satin, and bands of the same serve to make a border ail around the coat skirts and cuffs. Some Dainty Accessories. There Is evident a very strong 1" !ng for chiffon velveteen on the part of the younger section of society, especially those who have to accomplish their sartorial aims and ambitions upon a stated dress allowance. To such a pitch of perfection have the manufacturers brought this same once-despised velveteen that it often takes more than a passing glance to distinguish it from Its much more expensive cousin, the chiffon silk velvet. AH the bloom and softness of coloring are there, and when contrasted with 1 fine broadcloth, a soft silk or a filmy lace, all of the pretty effect of the more expensive fabric Is gained, and without undue cost either. One of the new blues, a blen d'acier. or steel blue, is shown contrasted with a bleu d'argent, or silver blue satin merveiHeux. The little blouse of an allover Valenciennes la strapped with tiny folds of the velveteen used upon slightly wider ones of the satin to delightful effect. The short and loose Eton shows a puff of satin showing out from a scant scape effect of the velveteen; whl'e the skirt Is one of those extremely full cir-C,nAa;gjjrfrafr9ca-t - demand - deep and god It pJeats at the waistline, continued down to the hem. to adjust the fulness.

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'or ivcnmg Appearance There is a distinct air of quiet elegance in this evenlng wrap of a delicate apple green shade of velveteen, which expresses Itself in every line of the garment. Fashioned of this beautiful lustrous material It dependa little upon elaboration in the way of trimmings for added beauty. The empire mode is attractively carried out by a draped yoke of the velveteen, to which Is attached the full straight skirt beneath a two-inch belt, showing a design in rococo ribbon embroidery la soft pastel shadea. The skirt' is shirred several times below this belt, and above the hem, which comei within a few Inches of the floor, two wide lace bands in a delicate cream shade are inserted, these turning the corners of the fronts and running up to the bust line, losing themselves beneath a jabot of lace, which cascades from the neck over the bust. A charming feature, and one which stamps the coats as truly Parisian, is the Capuchin hood of the velvet lined with ermine, the ermine shaped so as to extend down over the fronts in long narrow revers. The sleeves are full and shirred In cuff effect at the elbow, from which point a circular frill. lined with shirred white chiffon, falls over a wide, full frill of cream repousse lace, matching the skirt insertions and the front jabot. There is scarcely any occasion of fovnal intent for which this exquisite costume will not prove itself appropriate, aave, perhaps, an 'appearance ia a box at the opera upon a gala night. The chiffon velvet gown ia In a deep gray, that aua.de Rich Velvet, Real Laeei ! Lvx"arlosi Pars. that borders upon a brownish-yellow foe tone and Is locally known as taupe or moleskin. Although exceedingly ionable. this shade is a trying one to wear close to the face; and hence the best makers are posing a yoke of lace, usually In white or cream to relieve the dull co'orlng bet weed the material of the bodice and the t nplexion. Such a mode Is followed here, the collar and yoke being of tucked and shirred bouta de Beige net, the velvet applied to simulate a. bolero, and edited with a broad band of heavy irtsn crochet of exquisitely fine workmanship. The sleeve ia short but puffy, and finished below the elbow with three tiny upstanding frills of the same net as makes the yok- The skirt Is exceedingly full, with so it pleats tucked Into the waistbaDd: and the bem made slightly stiff with a bias band posed flat on the bem and topped with two thick cable cords covered plain with the velvet. The ermine stole la elaborately trimmed with a combination f . Irish rpcbet ad rLierre appliau laces; the same appearing on the muff: while the chapean ia is white felt.

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Clever Design for ; Carriage and Eve- . ning Wrap. Where one does not belong to the e first flisrbt of fashion. -and a alngle wn of dressy design must needs do duty bol u a carriage and an evening wrap, t! subject of the Illustration herewith wj nresent- many suggestive Ideas. The- n terialhls one of the aa tin faced bro4 clotha that the French term a drap satin, or a aatin cloth, so high la t luster of Its surface. Such falat ahai of pink Is used In thla that It presents yellowish tint in some ugms. ana m j cleverly emphasized In the use of broi velvet In the form oz Dias xoiaa xor trimming effect. To a shallow shoulder TOke. which Incruated with cord paasementeiies m Inlays of -velvet, the coat la ahirred b? back and front, the cut being aomrwtl of a circular design, so that It fallal folda that Increase la fulnesa until i bem la reached. The length la ealculal to come almost to the feet In front. J there Is a slight dip towards the back.1 that the outline of the train of the ak Is observed. The sleeve la extremely f and the novel allng effect la introduced. band of velvet carrying out thla plqu effect. Th accomoanvlne' sown la In apa r.iiina ivkmhlnixl with encrusts tlons real Chaorllly lace, the whole posed j ohlttnn mrA hltt'.nMn de cva Ul -.". v . - i xne cnapeau u muim, uu uirtn brim of nrlncesa lace, and . Ann ...I.. Mien I n the back trimmed with a frothy ruche of w! malinette. Dreii Seta, Tky Call TkM That accessories make the costume tfc; Is little doubt. No matter what tha i may be It needa the proper accessories set It off and add as it were the flnlah touches, none of which accomplish f end ao effectively aa. those smart "di seta" comprised of scarf and muff wp all the smart ahopa are now display) These come In coq. ostrich and maraN the latter being softer and fluffier. Tt with the ostrich are priced BOtnew higher than the coq, but the effect repaya the expenditure, and they are j In the least perishable as one might Iff Ine. That of the picture showa a br, acarf of white marabout aome two an: half yarda In length marked here there with little tufta of brown feath and the square pillow muff with Its lit of white satin and Interlining of prim haircloth to give the necessary body w out added weight, la likewise mar with the brown. The hat which Is w with this set and costume of a rbampa voile elaborately encrusted with lace hand-embroMered, Is a jaunty high cro narrow brim sailor of rich brown fel that soft pliable quality which cbarac lies the felt shape of the season. Tt is a box-pieated ruche of brown ve about the crown, and a huge bunch brown coq feathera curling upward downward la posed on the left brim of to the back. A high cache pelgnc In f back lifts the hat off the head at point and tllta It smartly forward, trimmed with loopa of brown velvet bon and two amber cabacbon. - Hints of the Comii Mod es. Cascades of lace are to be even t highly favored In the modes to ej than they are at presents What with vogue of the Watteau or Empire ba tbey are two different and distinct i and are becoming only to very dk An . lam r. knl A on Tit. ttl- ' cade of lace down either aide mi for a softening effect that la fete In the extreme. Tabller fronts on new skirts, petticoat effecta, bevette bibs upon the bodice, all of those loudly for some such design to scheme of elaboration. j The net top laeea are particularly-L In tbia connection, since the top cat cot off where the cascade Is suppose be narrow without in the least inte lng with the beauty of the design.! the. Increasing width aa it descenq accomplish' with softness where material la employed. Extremely large veils In real lacef upon even the medium-sized bate.j velvet hata they present a partlcit rich effect, especially when a whit cream lace Is used in connection wf dark-toned velvet. Tte fad for wei a brown veil with any color cbaf even black, is not at all pleasing t4 eye, and really seems rather an ofl against good taste than otherwise To return to the large veils, bo they will undoubtedly prove beconUt the tall woman with large features. 1 cially when the border is ao drapd j form a continuous edge of draper t the brim of the hat. Becoming "Uti splcnons is the verdict where He j of woman Is concerned, but ";Xrt petltwatner -nOl- asintnelle features would be extinguished complete! U attempt to carrv thi , t

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