Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 31, Number 264, 21 October 1906 — Page 10

Fashions for the Awkward Age -Junior Fashions Charm With Simplicity - Serviceable Materials Most Modish - Plaid Ribbons for Hats and Hair.

very mother of schoolgirls be there but one ftf 131x7 in her flock knows Just what a Uyl: it la to clothe the daughte when once sha has resched what Is so exprcslvely . known as "the awkward age." Just at the time when she has left childhood fashions behind, and those of the girls of 16 and 17 are somewhat too mature, is the period when the finding of suitable school and party frocks becomes a perplexing problem. To dress her like her younger sisters seems striving to keep her in the nursery beyond her due time; while dressing her after the modes of her elders seems to push her out Into the world all too soon. The age of angles and elbows Is an awkward age from more points of view than one. But the task Is easier this season than ever It has been before. 'Whether one n.itronlzes the ready-made departments of good shops, or else has a good dressmaker, either In the house or outside, there are countless suitable designs that are really pretty as well as serviceable for school wear. The gay plaids and partl-colored checks are making themselves extremely prominent In the Juvenile sections Just now. There Is an air of gay youthfulness to those designs that cannot fall to prove attractive; and when they are trimmed with goods of plain color, then a modish note of contrast Is simply and easily effected. One sees all of the serviceable woolens called upon, and they are shown In such simple, but none the less Btyllsh, designs that a choice from among them Is oftentimes difficult. French serges and Panamas henrlettas that demand velvet In some shape and form for trimmings, shelma cloths that do best with braids and braidings, silk and wool poplins of the coleen order that are equally effective, trimmed e nntrlmmed, and the tartan plaids that ene finds In mohairs that really require hardly any trimming at all; surely from among those one can select pretty and serviceable frocks for everyday school wear that are bound to be satisfactory. The blue and green, and the green and brown checks, or plaids that combine all three colors, are made up after a variety of patterns. The gulmpe frock. In which the body part Is slashed and strapped and slashed again to reveal the gulmpe beneath Is a prime favorite, and with this the short sleeve Is the correct accompaniment. Even In the gulmpe Itself this tendency Is apparent, since most of the new models in this present but at most a three-quarter length arm covering. Variations of the Russian blouse design are so numerous that lone cannot but

The Little Maid's "Wast Frock, i

The heavier of the linen piques, and some of the fleece-lined cotton ones, too, for that matter, will maintain all of their tuodlshness for nursery wear right through the winter months. Such warmer clothing as may be necessary to be provided In the underwear, which Is almost Invariably nowadays of the one-piece, or union order." The Imported model that forms the subject of illustration Is In a heavy linen pique and Is fashioned all In one piece. If one excepts the shield front, which Is removable. Deep pleats In the shoulder seams provide fulness, and the fastening Is effected right In front, double-breasted, the handsome pearl buttons making for quite some trimming effect. The broad sailor collar is elaborately embroidered all by hand. In several sizes of white linen floss, a conventionalized chrysanthemum pattern forming the design and working prettily Into the scalloped buttonholed edge. Just this latter edge appears on the turnover caff that finishes the smartly full sleeves, while the shield and Us hlsh collar are left absolutely without adornment. Une strap belt that Is posed low on the waistline Is cut In a semicircular shape, the buttons here meeting those on the dress Itself. Checked and Plain Clotha Comblae. An effective model for well-nigh any build of schoolgirl Is shown here. Ia the original the checked sldlienne Is in 3atnty shades of hortensla blue, a light and a darker tone criss-crossing each other; while the plain cloth Is a tint that Is Just about between the other two, so effecting a clever range of color la a very limited compass. . The bodice Is fashioned upon a blouse design, , the . fastening being effected - In the back, as is the case with so many of the juvenile as well as the adult frocks aowadaxs. Broad box pleats provide ful

wonder at the Infinite Ingenuity of the designer. In those, as In the original, the body prtrt is Ion, and the necessary belt 13 paseed around the hips rather tban the waist. In plaids and checks broadcloth Is used for trimming purposes, a side band, collar and cuff, as well as the belt being affected in the solid color goods, usually repeating the dominant color of the plaid. Blouse bodices drop Into a belt at : the natural . waistline, and both gulmpe and surplice designs, the latter filled In with a separate chemisette, are seen In those. Deep tucks across the body part will serve to fill out a too Blender figure, while the plump child .will find the surplice style becoming to her especial lines. In velveteen there are countless good models that may be reproduced at an Inconsiderable cost. The new chiffon velveteens are really dressy enough for any purpose; but so excellent is Its reputation for wearing qualities that this material has long enjoyed the favor of the school girl as well as of her mother. Dark colorings are the rule for such uses; and a relieving touch Is usually accomplished In the gulmpe, the chemisette, or with a separate and separable yoke In lace or embroidered lingerie materials. To bring a light color next the face is one of the present season's rules for everybody ; and to have it separable and of wash materials Is at once good fashion and good sense. For the younger sisters that heavy French linen pique will continue to be In quite some use during the early winter months at all events. Some dainty designs arc shown In this, all In handwork. The sailor collar with a separate shield that may be omitted when 'desired is still in good standing ; and . its use In steam heated houses and apartments will doubtless continue during the winter. Everything is done nowadays to make children hardily healthy; and It Is no longer considered necessary or desirable to muffle up the neck and throat, not In the bouse, at all events. Bretclle frocks make possible the use of the lingerie blouse or the linen . shirtwaist of the summertime in conjunction with the autumn school frock. Quite some elaboration Is lavished upon those bretelles ; and buttons and buttonholes, straps and strappings are made to do duty In many ways. The bevette or bib Is another favored Item, where the bodice Is concerned; and the skirts to most of the new frocks display a couple of tucks, bias folds or pipings above the hem. riald ribbons are in strong demand for both hat and hair purposes ; and In ordering such trimming for the chapeau many mothers add a couple of yards for hair ribbons off the same piece. ness, and a battlemented yoke of plain cloth is trimmed with tiny self buttons and little straps of soutache braid. The sleeve Is a full one at the top, the fulness pleated Into a cuff that Is strapped with the plain goods. The skirt presents the familiar pleated model, and Is made to come almost to the shoetops for a girl of 15. The belt that serves to connect the bodice and skirt is cut to slope prettily, being slightly circular In shape and decorated with the same little buttons as appear on the yoke and cuff. The high collar of the checked goods Is supported with the usual little rods of featherbone and fastens in the back. Soma Clever Touches In Plaid. There Is a cnarmlng variety presented in the new plaids that cannot fall to win approval for Juvenile wear. The smart little tallormade production of the picture 6hows soma clever touches In connection with the gulmpe or blouse that Is worn beneath; a mode that Is eminently suited to the lack of figure that the half-grown schoolgirl presents. A pretty blue, green and brown mixture Is barred with a slightly roughened black satin hairline, and pipings of black satin, the narrowest possible, add a touch of piquancy to the design that Is effective In the extreme. The waist Is modeled upon a low-neck blouse design, the fastening effected down the center front with open spaces that show the blouse beneath plainly. The sleeve is a very puffy gigot model la seven-eighths length, and a little diamond shape cut out at the fullest, part shows the lingerie sleeve beneath. The skirt Is a gored and pleated model, the front box-pleat presenting a tabller effect, and the aide pleats turned to the back meet In a similar effect at the center. A plain machine stitched hem forma lba f -1rK -

YW jfef? s "t the Instep. Empire wreaths, garlands of X'' t . : Wkmfi ' mlS1" tiny flowers, bowknots and little ovals " , t SOLty WTT J. Wws$mF In real laces -of finest quality are the pre- H ' VW f"'Ckr' Tf ; A ferred modes of decoration. A monogram N 4-- - " " " L 7 si'' j&Tir IT tlWZW Ail on a stocking where It might be seen Is v

Wkere Fasliion Reigns.

elderly Women will weicome the return of the little bonnet, such as they used to wear some dozen years ago or so. There are some charming little 6hapes, chic as may be Imagined, modeled upon the familiar Princesse order, developed - In frail and filmy materials of delicate tint. Airy looking ones of tulle and mallaette are shown In white or In pearl gray, trimmed in velvet ribbons of pastel hue. with an airy aigrette rising from an ostrich pompon, and the strings, as of yore, starting from the back, to be tied under the eas or crossed in front, fastening with a f-ncy Jeweled pin. Quite elaborate are the ones designed for restaurant, dinner and theater wear; for the elderly lady of today there are no old ones goes In for about as much social dissipation as though she were a whole quarter of a century youngec Not that she Is undignified,, or apes her youth, this elderly dame; far from it. It Is merely that she has mastered the secret of growing old gradually and gracefully, and It quite fits In with her scheme of things to take to those charming little bonnets, with all of their airy graciousness and dignity of appearance, as Indicative of her, viewpoint of life and dress. - Pretty pastel blues and grays are seen, dull rose pink shades and soft willow greens, to say nothing of those soft lavenders, hortensla tones and sober-looking browns, that are brought up to the required pitch of elegance by the addition of some cobwebby real lace - that Is Hghtly yellowed If not by time then by artifice. An Invisible net that matches the. hair to a miracle Is drawn on over the loftly waved and parted or pompadour locks, and a filmy little piece of - tulle that matches the hair, too does duty for. one of those abbreviated face veils that are 60 much the rage Just now. , Over a face that bears traces of the vanishing of first youth those dainty little bonnets are seen at their most charming best. At a very smart ' New York restaurant the other evening a prominent young lawyer a Southerner by birth, a" New Xorker by adoption pointed out an elderly lady at another table, and suggested . to bin mother. , who was dining tete a tete with him. that she hie herself to some fashionable milliner In the morning and replace her black velvet "picture hat" with Its overburden of heavy plumes with a "creation" in white malinette, such as her " dinner neighbor was wearing. His mother objected that a bonnet would undoubtedly make her look "aged," but the son, not to be gainsaid, called her attention to the fact that the little princesse , bonnet only be did not know it by that -name was' really the most', becoming thing 'the mother of such a grown up son as be could or should wear." It lends a cameo cut to even the plumpest of faces, and softens the traces left by the finger of

time as no other article In the milliner's entire repertoire can do. Tlie Sew Armlet by which fashionable society expects to hold up long gloves upon arms that are a thought too slender are cleverly fashioned from moussellne de sole, ruffled on' the edges with satin or gros-grained ribbons, and with the center run with elastic cleverly concealed by a boulllonne of the moussellne. Those are to be purchased by the yard and be It noted that the smart saleswoman always sells them "on the stretch," Just as she used to do with the pllsse chiffon ruffllngs of long ago; and the requisite Joining Is concealed by a smart little bow of velvet ribbon, this, of course, to be supplied by the wearer. Another use for the same thing Is on the Bhort sleeve of the lingerie, waist, which usually needs some persuasion to Induce It to remain above s instead of below the elbow. The present style Is happily without the suggestion of the Jarettelle, which the ribbon-run elastics of the summertime so forcibly presented. The Shirtwaist Suit bids fair to become as, perennial a favorite as the shirtwaist. or: the blouse whichever one chooses to call it Itself. Quite the rage Is It In smart circles to have those dainty and really serviceable house frocks made from soft woolen goods, such as nun's veiling, shelma cloth, henrietta and the like. Pale colors are preferred, since they are not Intended for street wear; and In winter delicate tints are really much more cheerful for home use than the more sober street . colors. The pastel tones of blouse,: soft yellow, tender greens and faint rose and geranium pinks are used, to say nothing of the coral shades that are making such a furore for themselves at this writing. Those latter are seen at their best when made up with a gulmpe of yellowish lace and ' deft touches of a deep red velvet, preferably of the Jacqueminot tint, employed upon both bodice and skirt. A Novel Little Turban that is reminiscent of the defunct polo shape is developed in louisine ribbons. The crown Is higher -than- of yore, and there is no more suggestion of a brim to this new aspirant for millinery honors than there was to the old one. The ribbons are ruffled and tacked to the net-covered frame somewhat after a vermicelli pattern, so that there is no set arrangement apparent. A . couple of long ostrich or vulture plumes are tacked to the side, resting far down on the coiffure in the beck. A chic little shape for one whoan wear It well; but over a too plump face the result would be disastrous. Embroidery Hoopa in a . novel shape are . on sale - in leading shops. The shape Is a small but extremely elongated oval, and Its mission . Is to serve as a frame whereon to stretch : the silken hose that- La to receive the honor of hand embroideries. A reigning fad at present Is the embroidering of sheer silk stockings, filmy as a cobweb, the. bulk of the work coming above rather than on

the Instep. Empire wreaths, garlands of tiny flowers, bowknots and little ovals In real laces 'of finest quality are the preferred modes of decoration. A monogram on a stocking where It might be seen Is no longer considered in good taste. In spite of the fact that an English peeress (of recent accession, by the way, and somewhat humble origin) has ordered a coronet with her christian name in the center wrought directly upon the Instep of a larger order of silken hosiery purchased in Paris. Just one's Initials, done in cross-stitch upon the top of the stocking, is the only evidence of ownership that good taste permits at present. The Season's Vlsltlnff Cards are a trifle smaller than heretofore. The card Itself Is thinner and more flexible, and, consequently, more expensive. Shaded Gothic, Roman or Old English type has altogether replaced the one-tlme imperative script letter, and all numbers are fully spelled out, not figured. Plaid Ribbons Trim Felt Hats. Quite In consonance with the prevailing vogue of plaids for both dresses and millinery purposes Is this smart little. chapeau for the small school girL The crown Is somewhat more of the steeple shape than we have seen for quite sometime, and the brim Is correspondingly wide. A bandeau at the left side lifts the shape becomingly and makes It set more comfortably to the shape of the head. Plaid ribbon, In which brown the color of the chapeau dark red, pale blue, with crossbars of gold in hairline size, is used for trimming purposes, a big, splashing bow being posed at the lifted side, partly on the crown and partly on the brim. The bandeau Is entirely covered with the ribbon loops, many of which rest on the hair. The smart little coat Is one of those full length affairs, double-breasted, and displays another connection In whlcn plaids are prominent. The rollover collar of velvet is so shaped that it may be turned up around the throat when desired. "Velveteens Sleet Hard Wear. Several of the leading features of current modes are clearly reproduced la this little frock, that Is Intended for the schoolgirl of some dozen summers or so. A very pretty shade of brown, shading somewhat on the tobacco tints, is used, and the girdle and cord ornaments are In the same sober coloring. The frock is fashioned with a separate chemisette, permanent buttons and buttonholes serving to hold It In place and facilitate Its removal for laundry purposes. The fastening Is ' Id the back, so that the :tty front effect Is unbroken. Princess lines prevail, the fronts being slit, and the fulness drawn to either Fhoulder, where cord ornaments simulate a fastening. Lengthwise pinched tucks simulate a fitting around the waistline. The sleeve Is of the leg-o'-murton pattern, full at the top and tapering prettily below the elbow Into an upturned cuff at the wrist. Bib Styles Permit SepermteGnlmpea. Extremely attractive is this novel style. In which two contrasting materials and colors are deftly combined. The guimpe Is In a figured mohair, a cream ground, with a pale blue broken hairline pattern running lengthwise of the goods, while the little frock itself is In a brown shelma. cloth that contrasts prettily with the touch of blue la the mohair. The gulmpe follows the usual cut. the cuff being . deepened on the sleeve until It reaches almost to the elbow. The bevette Is a clever . combination of bib and bretelle styles, fastening with fancy buttons to the belt. - and edged with a smart braid all around. The skirt la fashioned with grouped pleats, stitched down with a double row of silk machine stitching for several inches, and then wen Dressed to the deep stitched hem.

Littlest

Daintiness tkc Keynote

Sneer Materials Put Together With Invisible Stitckes-Loose Fit and Positively No Starck, Dictates Fasliion.

If heaven la all around as In our Infancy, as the poet sings, then surely the clever women who design things for the modern baby must be In close communion with the angels moA of the time. Never before in the history of babyhood have common sense and fashionto say nothing of a riotous extravagance gone so hand In hand as they do today, and the baby who comes to town in this year of grace can thank kindly old Father Stork for bringing him at this late date, rather than a decade earlier. Comfort coupled with daintiness that is what the modern layette presents, and this Is so entirely Irrespective of cost or materials. That those latter are all of the finest and sheerest that the young mother's purse can provide or her Ingenuity accomplish goes t without saying. The finest that the weaver can make is none too fine for the little stranger that Is expected. Many a grandmother of today, when she brings out the cherished little garments that her own children wore, is forced to acknowledge that In spits of the general tendency to bewail the passing of so-called good times the baby of the present day is far more rationally, far more comfortably clad than were her own little ones. The heavy flannels, the multitudinous petticoats, the long and stiffly starched dresses, whose seams could not help but cut Into baby's tender flesh and frazzle his temper all to pieces, and then the heat and weight of all this load of stiff and heavy garments well, one wonders bow it was that there were any goodnatured babies at all In the long ago. That there was a great plenty of them the grandmothers of today will cheerfully bear evidence, but It surely bespeaks an angelic forbearance on the part of the baby that such was the case. The baby of today does not know what starch Is that is, if he have a modern mother and a well-appointed wardrobe. The softest and sheerest of nainsooks, batiste, handkerchief linen, linen cambric and the like are used. Where it Is at all possible those are made altogether by hand, and with the craze for needlework Just now as a fashionable fad, the making of baby lingerie has come to be considered quite a modish accomplishment. One sees both the sacque and the yoke shape employed in the daintiest, as well as in the coetilest of Imported French garments. The little yoke la, perhaps, the preferred pattern, since It affords more field for variety than does the alternate style. It may be square, round, pointed, tabbed or diamond shaped, and in any case, no matter what itr outline. It Is seldom or never without its due meed of adornment. Hand embroideries, relieved with. Insertions of the tiniest of Valenciennes or the most cobwebby of torchons, srs favored at the moment. This latter lac Is coming Into high esteem Just now, as It well may do. for, strive as they may, the manufacturers cannot " produce anything made by machine that will satisfactorily supplant the sheer product of the handworker's pillow and bobbins, added to which it fives well-nigh ever-

BaLy of All.

in tke Little One's Dresslaatln wear. Chimin-. In. as It kh t4 fi for handwork, on goodly field for Its use In this eonnectioi! alone. I Th. una n hm.hr has his fashions, lusi as do his elders, and the line of good taste are Just as clearly drawn and atj firmly fixed for him as in thos gorera inir tt erreat world of .society. The christening robe Is an Item that U nftn times handed down from genera' tlon to generation. Just as are the famllj portraits and the bridal .veil ana wen. ding laces. One old New York family 1 Dutch ancestry brought out a christenlni rob for us the other day at Old Trlnltj Church, which was then being worn bj the seventh generation In straight sue cession. Judged by modern standards It is still s a thing of j beauty, for th handspun and hand woven linen has kep its color marvelously, and the exqulsltt polnte de Flandres is even more sought after today than it a two centartf ago. when the fair fingers of om P" maMon donhtless fashioned its desuJ In far-away Holland. J The late Queen Victoria, too model ol all the domestic virtues used to Indulg ber liking for needlework in similar fash Ion. especially during her prolonged so Journs in the Highlands of Scotland. Ai amusing story, by the way. Is told It connection with this kindly fad of her and went the rounds many, many yean ago. One of the officers of the regiment U attendance upon the Queen Informed Hei Majesty that a little stranger had Jus; arrived In his nursery, an event In whicti the gracious old lady always took a deet Interest, and Invariably seeding a chris tenlng robe to mark ber pleasure t th event- Just at the same time his brothes was about to marry one ot the QueerV maids of honor, an occasion tfat alwa) called out a gift of a camel's-nair snawi Somehow or other the roysl gifts go mixed. The bride s mystified mat mortified to receive a baby's chrlstenlni robe as a wedding present from be: royal mistress, the slgtiiScance of whlcl ilv mratified t receive a ramoi a-nnir bub w 1 iut- wuu ...... I , tlonal wedding gift from "th Widow o Th Ink hiwmr was too STOOd t keen, and the story leaked out and wen th ronndi! and none lanshed DOr4 heartily at It thaa th good old Qoeeij herself, after the mistake had neen aa Justed and apologetic explanations ot. fered and accepted. J Baby's bath robe and baby's dressing gown are mad from the sheerest o Australian wools, and lined with on those waterproof silks that do not oo or stain with a drop of water. Daint; little sacques. too, are made of slmila materials, nun's Tellings, shelma clot! and henrietta. as well as cashmere, beim used for those. Kimono, butterfly an nightingale shapes are seen In those. aa the' edge are scalloped and buttonhole" by band in Hen of the usual hem. Daint: little garlands of flowers, bow knots French knots, are used for elaboration and the fad for blue for a boy and pin' for a girl Is carried out in the ;J broideries In thos dainty Uttj gA menta.