Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 31, Number 243, 30 September 1906 — Page 8

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s - qnisite yellows that will trim with the i jr 1 ft II r. , ' . Jf M - 1 popular combination of heavy lace and lP (C jft 5- A I - lg If - x ' I furs to perfection; and provided that the 5f v " 'Y$' ' ' 8 ' & i 1 J 8 I" . . J fur Is permitted to intervene between the SS C -O' ' 7 Av X- C4 fV I ? I. ? ' . . . ?M " - c,otn o"1 tbft complexion, the costume llSlkNl' t' ( jfk n o t"$ ; ' ' r" ' jijJrfc)T-.--' ' cannot fall of a due success on either pfcSSailiiWx C W'Wfr. ?&BeIM X- ' iYt i- jrfS blonde or brunette. There is a popular yBSlllifllii I 1 JCfo 1 5 ' 'x i VsCX I V - 1 tradition that a blonde cannot carry yel- FS V'"7 I l yT TJkV 8' ffil'- ' 15!B I ' ; f-, ' low successfully; but a 20-uiInute session flBgliigfl 1 " S (T V Tlfel ? ' V I 8 l ; r ' . I r-. Z' ' l he bIonde cendree of the French that S "3 J t&gf tJ . f,' i 0 ft ' . it I there are possibilities for her in this color , ..... &&t i4rTS 8 E ' J8 f3 J I tbat have been hitherto unsuspected. . C. i 'M -SiJ fl; . j f O I ' V Sgy' L I After the broadcloths it is cloths of the 5TiJ2lS5 - W ( J I3AZCZ3$l' 5 ' - .i B II ' - " JrM$ ' 1" 7 -J 1 shelma type that will find a popular ac- ) - -V Q - . Hir.j" U I P " Xy'''fm T ' f ceptance. This may best be described as Ar wW31-3 II H - s Vb. JP -vit S ' a woolen taffeta, since the weave Is ex- 5 a. " - ' "' &

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IN K ' - H fiil . Vtl -lil f and even a slic-ht attemot at elaboration I LAJXIZj.

h :r: ::' 4iWi,' fll J wpofyemoSra Flutteriiis in Fashion Land.

MoJcs of tKe Demi-saison Are ProplieticTailored Type Pre vails-Vel vets and Silks Com-" tine-Poplins in High Favor-Elaboration m Trimmings-Some Novelties and Some ' ' Conspicuous Revivals.

The entire world feminine looks to Paris for its fashions, if not for Its opinions: Not that the Parlsienne herself Is ever and always such a conspicuously modish little person Id her clothe, but rather because Farls is the gathering place for every cation under the sun, for the moneyed aristocrat and plebiscite alike, and Paris with repnbllcan fervor greets them all with open arms and asks of them merely that they be interesting, fpend money freely and even lavishly, and above and beyond all that they H1;e and appreciate Paris. There's the secret of the supremacy of Paris. She draws the devotees of all the arts to her center, and he gives them, one and alt, the opportunity of their lives to gratify their tastes, their wishes, their ambitions. She caters Erst, last and ail the time to the stranger within her gates. For the world feminine there are opportunities upon every hand to gratify the taost luxurious of tastes, the most fastidious ideas as to dress and appearances. It may be accomplished at a vast expenditure; or. fig"-In if the woman be alive to her opportunities It may be achieved with the minimum of expense. It ail lies with the woman herself: for Paris can gratify evt-ry taste and every ptirse. It will take a long parse, however, to follow the latest styles lu all of their Parisian perfection: or If the perse be lacking, then It will require aa unusual degree of ingenuity In the woman of sleuder resources to present a r?aUy modish appearance In the coming winter styles. Materials are more lavishly used and cut into; trimmings are of the most ornate and elaborate order, and the mode itself is of the ultra character that demands first a goodly dgree of taste to select and a next goodly degree of ;t ? to carry off well. A comprehensive grouping of models that have been ushered in ou this side of the Atlantic with the . aegis of famous names to cover their trying points afforded a chance to sum up the most prominent features of the mode for the late autumn and early winter seasons. For one thing, there are far more combinations of materials and far fewer combinations of color than In the immediate ."?"- OuJte x fad it Is to hav a. three-

piece costume In which one-color Idea Is carried out, but each piece the coat, the skirt and the little blouse, atl made up In different materials. A charming model by Perdoux delightfully Illustrates this tendency. The little coat with Its conspicuously shortwalsted back Is In a brown chiffon velvet. The skirt Is of a tortoise-shell brown sedo silk, while the litt'e blouse is in a harmonious tint of brown chiffon relieved with white lace and mousselice de sole. There is a duel a 1'outrance between the plain and severe and the more frivolous' and fussy modes, both of which are expected to be concocted by the tailor, rather than by the dressmaker. Just at this writing the native Parlsienne prefers the latter type;- but those French who prefer to follow foreign ideas, to emulate the English and the Americans lu their love and following of "le sport," to such the more masculine type of dress appeals as beiug better in keeping with their own tendencies in the way of pursuits and amusements. The color scheme for the winter promises to be an interesting one. Trying to an extreme will materials prove, unless selected with due taste and skill. There are deep and dense shades of gray the lighter tints seem to have been retired with the summer toilettes that are bound to bring out every yellow tinge and every sallow tendency in the skin. Woody-looking fawns, soft crushed fruit tones that tiuge on reds, browns of the pelished and the golden copper hues; greens that take ou metallic lights, and some hues that are vividly brilliant. Those are what the best makers are displaying, and In the more expensive materials. Variations of those colors. In less extreme tones, are selected In the less costly and, perhaps, more staple materials. For example, one sees ail of the tints mentioned lu the velveteens that are slated for a succession of their last season's vogue; but ru those the brilliancy is toned down quite a little, and the result is far more acceptable than if the more intense hue be presented. In broadcloths there Is absolutely no hint of a waning modlshness; and here there are most delightful halftones and tints andnnances that it takes a trained eye to appreciate. There axe some ex

quisite yellows that will trim with the popular combination of heavy lace and furs to perfection; and provided that the fur Is permitted to intervene between the cloth and the complexion, the costume cannot fall of a due success on either blonde or brunette. There Is a popular tradition that a blonde cannot carry yellow successfully; but a 20-minute session at any good dress goods counter will quickly convince even the ashen blonde the blonde cendree of the French that there are possibilities for her in this color that have been hitherto unsuspected. After the broadcloths it Is cloths of the shelma type that will find a popular acceptance. This may best be described as a woolen taffeta, since the weave Is exactly in wool what taffeta is In silk. Those take all the modish shades beautifully, and even a slight attempt at elaboration or trimming effect shows up wonderfully well upon the smooth and lustrous surface. , The French tailor deems every class of dress goods his own domain, differing markedly from his American cousin in this respect. The entire range of cloths Is. of course, conceded him; but. In addition, he reaches out and makes his own of velvets and velveteens, silks of many kinds and characters, sheer voiles and tissues, and does not hesitate to use lare in quantity, and to combine braids and chiffon, furs and mousseline all in the same trimming scheme. A master of combinations Is this French tailor, and while the mere mention of the conjunction of such wearing materials may sound crude and Inappropriate, Just one glance at the made-up model that conveys them Is enough to convince the most skeptical that the result so gained Is harmonious and artistic as well. Poplins have sprung Into a sudden favor, after a long period of probation at the hands of exclusive and fastidious leaders of the mode. Queen Alexandra and the ladles of her court and their many friends and relatives among the haute noblesse of both France and England have long favored the most elaborate costumes In Irish poplin decorated with Irish crochet of the finest variety. The genuine poplin that halls from Ireland is band woven upon the oldtlme loom, and its wearing qualities are proverbial ou the other side of the ocean. Parisian makers favor this dainty and yet durable material mightily In the program for next season. There are charming effects In the colleen poplin, plaiu and lustrous, that yields delightful results with a modicum of trimming. Velvet is the recognized complement of the new poplins, and lace either in the natural tint or dyed to coincide In color with the material adds a light touch that cannot fail of admiration. - The short-waisted effects that are characteristic of the season are cleveriy contrasted with the return of the bloused modes. The little blouse coat -iih a poplum or basquine added over th? hips is bnck once more, and its effects In the iatier mode are flattering alike to the tail and short, to the slender aud the more ueveloped figure.

Revival of the Blouse Style. A charming model for well-nigh every style and description of figure is that imported gown by Dukes et Joire. of Paris, a firm that has hitherto advocated the fitted mode and closely fitted at that In all of the designs that they have sponsored. One of the new deep gray tints not a gunmetal nor yet a moleskin, but rather the deep and dense gray that is known in France as sourisette the very deepest mouse-gray known to the dyer's art. The coat is bloused all around over a cleverly shaped and fitted belt of the narrowest variety that -has been seen for sometime. Persian lamb, of black Ieipsie dye. and velvet of the deep mouse tint, are both used for trimming. The fur forms a border to the cut-out neck and trims the sleeve, and likewise borders the very full skirt in wavy points that are further emphasized by the application of a shaped fold of the cloth above them. The little basquine that is added over the hips sets snugly, adding nothing to the size of the figure at this point. The skirt Is managed with deep pleats, stitched down over the hips and then falling in full lines to the feet, the application of fur and fold making for the c fleet of a double or tunic skirt. :

Little Things Tkat Mean Muck To tne Woman of Fasliion.

Embroidered Gloves are growing more elaborate with each and every Importation that Is opened np In the shops. White gloves have so receded In favor that the specialty houses are offering them at reduced prices," and the fashlonwlse are purchasing heavily of them and having them dyed to the exact tint of the costume with which they are to be worn. Colored Footwear. has always been favored by the Parlsienne. and she orders lavishly of her bootmaker so that every costume has Its appropriate shoe, usually a color match. The more economical American, while following the fashions fully as eagerly and as enthusiastically, nevertheless hesitates to lay out a large part of her dress allowance In cleaner's bills, for which she has absolutely nothing whatever to show at the season's end. The American shoemaker overcomes this state of affairs delightfully in making the vamp of the shoe In either a dull or a brilliant black kid, and then the upper is of contrasting tone and material, the silken hose matching this In ' tint. In this way the 6hoe does not become soiled after a few wearings. the demands of fashion are satisfied and a measure of economy effected. Satin Striped Velvets. and velveteens are among the latest presentations. They are peculiarly effective in the mouse-grays, the myrtle-greens and the subefgine (eggplant) shades that are to rule the fashionable section this coming season. Moire silks are often selected for their trimmings, and handwork in the way of embroideries and appliques is quite the correct accompaniment. Empire Combs. are very much to the front jist now. These are the large combs with a narrow top that- Is. - seems narrow In proportion to the size of the comb the top being made the medium of artist work In gold and inlay. Stiff Torn-over Linen Collars. have the turnover part of exquisite hand embroideries. They have ail the stiff shape and appearance of the mascuiine linen collar and are. in fact, made after the most approved masculine models. The little touch of embroidery on ie turnover part, however, serves to soften tht-m; but none the less they are bound to prove somewhat trying to the average wearer. There Is a certain amonot of incongruity between the stiff collar and an embroidered surface; nor is this altogether removed In the addition of the lingerie bow, a frilly and fluffy little battertJy affair that is attached at the collar, "fastening with a little elastic loop. Tassels of Several Kinds, are among the trimming showings that bold possibilities for the clever designer. The button has been so overdone as a trimming effect that the little tassel will be welcomed ia Is place. Just at present, though, there is usually a battos toj

or effect that seems to hold the pendant tassel in place, and this Is cmbroidere. bended, or painted, so that it presents the richest effect.

Tbe Notion Counter. is a place of inspiration to the home or the amateur dressmaker at the moment. Countless little helps and hints for her use are there displayed, and a clever eye and a retentive memory will make use of such to excellent advantage. There are the new shoulder forms which, , slipped In as, a n interlining In a coat, make for Just ex-netly 1 the correct line at the shoulder, and aid wonderfully In the setting of the sleeve. There are specialties In collar supports. In featherbone skirt stlffenlngs and cordi.ngs. In covered pipings. In skirt measurers that mark exactly the correct hang of the skirt when It Is being tried on the wearer, silk -covered hooks and eyes that add muchly to the appearance of the finished gown; skirt bindings in braid and velvet that are shaped to the exact curve of the skirt and countless other things that are. as the auctioneer's catalogues ar wont to proclaim too numerous to mention. A half-hour spent at the notion counter Is sure to result In a host of good Ideas and helpful hints for the home-sewer. Still the Separate Blouse and Skirt. It may be accepted as final, all rumors and prophecies to the contrary notwithstanding, that the separate blouse and skirt are to occupy a very prominent place In the affairs of fashion for quite sometime to come. Time and again has their doom been foretold and their deathknell been rung; but, phoenix-like, the little separate blonse seems to arise from Its own ashes and resume Its way with perhaps a more vigorous bold npon the public fancy than before. One of the prettiest styles that the French bave sent out for the coming season Is shown herewith. In this a blouse bodice of chiffon cloth lor double chiffon, as the French more expressively call lt is daringly trimmed with broad braid Jnst the kind that the tailor employs upon roth cloth and velveteen costumes in such profusion this season and this heavy braid is combined with narrow Valenciennes Ince and tucked monsseiine de sole with the most chic results Imaginable. The blouse ts arranged with a yoke of white, lace trimmed, and the braid assumes a bolero-like outline around the armsize. The sleeve Is puffed, the Inner side of the puff slit to display an nndersieeve effect in white, strapptfd with the brown satin of the eklrx. The felgbwalsted effect of the design Is emphasized in the deep belt of the skirt material, that rises considerably under tn arms to slope to tbe center back and front. Tbe skirt itself is of circular cut, with a bias seam down the center front, and a foot trimming of plisse chiffon enclosed in a bias band of silk at either edge. ".

Parisian Tailored Possibilities. The Farlslan tailor, somewhat unlike his American congener, claims the wiolo realm of fabrics for his own. But especially does she lean to silks and velvets, and this season more than ever. Somehow or other the mention of the one usually calls up vision of the other, and from time immemorial silk and velvet have been associated for costume and trimming effects. One of the prettiest designs that has found its way from Parisian ateliers to this side of the ocean Is that Illustrated wherein a velvet Jacket tops a skirt of dull finished sedo silk. This latter is a novel weave, somewhat approaching a faille francaise In appearance, but softer In handling and of excellent wearing qualities. The color scheme of the Illustration shows the soft silk skirt In a pretty shade of brown, one of the novel tortoise-shell tints, while the short-walst-ed little coat Is In chiffon velvet of a deeper tint. This little coat. Incidentally, presents some novel Ideas for the dressmaker. Deeply pleated In the shoulder seams which are broadened out with a featherbone sewed Into the seam the fronts are disposed after a blouse pattern. wbi!e the pack Is shortened, and a triple box pleat, with fan ends applied separately, finished with pendant passementerie ornaments. The sleeve Is In three-quarter length, with a well-stiffened cuff trimmed with braid, like the collar, and garnished with Irish crochet, Tbe skirt of the brown sedo silk Is cut in the extreme of the circular mode, the excess fulness being deftly pleated and stitched down over the hips, to be released ooce the curve of the hip is passed. Tbe correct line at the foot is maintained in the trimming, which consists of an entre-doux of closely pleated silk, edged either side with a bias band. In the stitching of which featherbone cords are introduced with excellent results. Those cords are Just barely stiff enough to keep the 6kirt from sagging, but so flexible are tbey that they do not assert tbelr stiffness by any means in a hoop skirt fashion or intimation. Poplins Are Ulshly Modli'a. For quite a considerable period the haute noblesse of Great Britain and of France Lave been wearing costumes made from tbe hand-woven Irish poplin, whose use Qaeen Alexandra of England has strenuously advocated. At' first their extreme cost made them prohibitive to all but the wealthy, but with their increased vogae and the etrong de mand for them that has arisen, less ex pensive methods of production have been adopted, so that cow a woman cf average means may possess a costume of this charming colleen poplin." A design from Agnes, of Paris, well Illustrates the possIblUties f this delightful and durable slik, Tbe color Is one of those Indeterminate green-browns that fashion favors so n.ightiiy for autumn and winter wear. A conventional design In reticealla lace a recent arrival in fashionable circles is dyed to match the colleen pppiin. and this forms a shallow yoke and sleeve trimming. .The bodice is fashioned npon blouse and poplorn lines, the skirt carried op la Its ceauai 9aL vr tb raintura.

little basquine tabs added below the belt with a delightfully chic result. The 6klrt lines are particularly rood, the graduated panel down the centee front making for an effect of slenderness, and the apron effect la which the aids panels ar treated proving a welcome novelty. Soscfitlng the Mannish Model. Even In the dressier types of tailor made there is a struggle between tha very fussy styles that suggest femlnlna frivolities and the plain and severe style, that strongly hints at the mannish Ideas that are the foundation of the plain and severe type of tailored eostnmea. One of the best applications of tbe military mode Is seen to advantage In a design by Perdoux, of Paris, one of those French tailors who are capable of the cleverest sort of compromises In conflict" Ing modes. The coat is In a deep shade of sapphire-blue broadcloth the satin, faced kind while the skirt shows tbe same shade, plaldcd wltb green, brown and a black satin overstrlpe. The coat follows the form known as 'Continental military." The collar Is of the stock variety, close and tight around the throat, the vest of braided white broadcloth being built op to meet and to match this collar. The fronts are rolled back, the better to display the fancy waist coat. A broad silk braid trims the coat, and the buttons are embroidered with an Empire laurel wreath, to add to their Ueauty. Tbe skirt Is rather a novel cot. the front and back showing a bias seam at the center and nnbroken from belt to hem. The sides are clrcnlar In cat. the fulness Increased by the addition of a circular flounce, applied with a piping of black satin. The sleeve accords with the severe military style, being of an easy fulness at the top and finished with a braid and velvet trimmed cuff at tba wrist. Evolution of the Pony .Jack. That fetching little pony jacket which. In Its original presentationa, was Intended solely for Informal eostnmea, ban reached such a pinnacle of favor that one sees It In all classes of material and elaborated to a degree that the original designer scarce even dreamed of. Perhaps Its most effective appearance la In the gnise of a tallormade, the skirt sharing largely In the extent of elaboration that is lavished upon the coat. Several fetching little bints are expressed in the one that forma the enbJect of illustration. Tbe material la one of those Indeterminate cloth mixtures that presents lines of brown, green and a deep moleskin gray, tbe latter color predominating. The little pony Jacket la so cleverly cut that, while as loose as well may be. the fetching lines of the waist are clearly defined. This is managed In a series of panels of Irregular outlines that meet, with self-covered buttons at the waist, and so emphaslee that line. The sleeve Is a loose top, tapering prettily below the elbow Into a full-, length cuff at the wrist. The skirt is Likewise paneled, and each alternate panel Is strapped la either perpendicular or horizontal lines, so that there la no effect of monotony In the design. The. correct length for tbe coming season;' skirts Is displayed, and the necessity foP tbe old-time velveteen binding as a finish is once more present.

The Cleanest People on Earth. If the Inhabitants of Ilaiwall and, indeed, the islands of the Pacific generally are not clean It Is certainly not because they do not bathe. Often they bave several baths in one day, and everybody bathes at least once In the 24 hours. A dip in the briny" is nowhere considered sufficient for cleanliness, and among the Polynesians one can hardly Insult a man more than to state that his skin shows marks of salt water. In fact, directly after bathing la the sea a bath In. the fresh water Is considered a necesKcy to wash off the salt- Large green oranges are nsed for soap. This fruit Is too bitter for eating, bat when ti pol3 Is rubbed on the native skin, which Is always greased with coeoannt oil. It makes a real soap and lathers welL Scrubbing brustes are also provided bv Dame Nature. A segment Is torn from the husk of a cocoanut and the fibers thus exposed serve the purpose of tbe bristles of a manufactured brush. The bather makes good use of the the soap and brushes thos provided, sod when be has finished his ablutions be ts in the wind to dry. W hen the skin is dry a coating of cocoanut oil rubbed in briskly. Then the bather winds a strip of cloth rouut the waist and the cwe Mxoaf is eras.

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