Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 31, Number 216, 2 September 1906 — Page 8

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1 'li.T. -i&trV '1 tint VMS"The plain Tailored Shirt Is Prominent Men's Shtrtlnsre Mnch -n Tomte-Clerer Tooebei of Sovelty Dreur Example! Become More and More ExtraTBffnnt Cine Wet Blouses With Colored Slips Beneath Stiff Collars and Cuffs Are Back Ara InThe Matter of Keck Dressing;- The -. Ceintnre a Vexed Question. With the return of the severely plain tailor-made for autumn wear the equally plain and severe tailored shirtwaist the smart dressers refer to It as a short, and hawo It made by a mascullre shlrtmaker Is thrusting Itself quite Into the forefront of things. It is not so very different, this plain and severe shirtwaist, from what It has been In the past. Pretty mnch the same lines and the same materials appear, although the search for some welcome little novelty to Introduce by way of relief goes on una bated. One sees the perfectly plain cut, with no more fulness to it than a man's shirt, upon which it Is modeled, presents. Others again, equally "tailor-made" In appearance, present a number of pleats as a relief, and yokes -are relied upon to break the monotony of the style. Linen is ' in hrgh favor for such purposes, both the- heavy German weave and the finer round-thread linens of Irish manufacture. The old reliable Etandbys, the cotton cheviots now there Is introduced a cotton serge as well and the mndras weaves, fine ginghams and the usual imported Scotch shirtings, are all on view, as well as some of the daintiest damasse effects In either white or delicate tints, with a tiny figure In a contrasting color printed on the surface at far intervals. ? Those latter goods have attracted the most favorable attention, in spite of their price they are some $2 a yard in the BO-inch widths. Orders have been given to one smart shlrtmaker he makes for men chiefly, but does not scorn the orders of feminine patrons by any means for half-dozens of these, in different tints, and the monogram of the owner to be wrought In cotton threads the color of the figure that appears In the design. For example, a pale pink is damasse In a moire surface, and at far intervals there is a tiny fleur-de-lla.conventlonallsed, of course. In a soft almond green. The monogram Is worked on the little watchpocket in a green cotton the same tint as the fleur-de-lis. contrasting prettily v.Ith the delicate pink that makes the background. With such shirts there are stocks a ad belts made up to match, although th use of white linen stocks and belts, embroidered en suite, is countenanced by clever dressers for wear with the colored blouses that are undoubtedly giving the white waists a tussle for premier place in fashionable ranks. Passing to the more elaborate style of blouse, where that much overworked word lingerie" is used descriptively. If not expressively. It Is to be noted that recent Importations In these are Invariably fashioned with a full-length sleeve and a most elaborate finish, that hangs far down over the hand, reaching well to the knuckles at least. On this side we are clinging to the comfortable, If not always sightly, elbow sleeve, and manufacturers are going on gaily putting In this abbreviated arm-covering In all but the plainest of shirtwaists. The moment that even a bint of lace or elaboration gets on a blouse the sleeve gets chopped off short, and It joins the procession of lingerie waists. Just at this writlnir fn th InTl h. or - .. VMCS comes between the close of one season and -the opening of the other, one can find exquisite examples of embroideries of all sorts wherewith to manufacture charming iittle blouses. There are pattern waists, done on the finest of handkerchief linen, on both cotton and linen batiste and some on sheer nainsook. Technically they are known as French embroideries, but the most of them are of Irish origin, where the peasantry are skilled In needlework of more kinds than the tourist ever sees or the summer "tripper" discovers. Just now these may be purchased for a fraction of what was demanded for them a few short weeks ago, and with an Illustration to work from even a seamstress of moderate skill can make them up In short order. Odd lengths, too, of embroideries and laces are being offered at the most tempting prices. One woman whose taste is as boundless as her purse Is slender takes her seamstress along when bound on a bargain tour. The litFine plain nets are being made much ose of in the fashioning of the dressier type of blouse, such as are expected to do duty for luncheon and afternoon wear. Here handwork reigns supreme, and It is no 'wonder that a seemingly extortionate price is exacted for . those filmy looking little nothings, when one considers the vast amount of tncking and shirring and ruchlng that la required to oake an impression on the plain surface cf the net. One of the prettiest examples seen yet Is presented beiewlth, a design that lends itself delightfully to copying by either professional or amateur dressmaker. The little blouse is plain and nnlined, so that slips of various colors may be worn beneath, in order to bring it in accordance with the skirt worn. The yoke sb.-ws quarter-inch, tucks running both lebgtnwise and crosswise, farming a sauaxe Dlaf.3 pattern, and pre

-'Ml . 1 r 0 tie needlewoman discovers possibilities in many a piece that her employer would pass unnoticed, and the result is that the woman Is envied by her acquaintances for the number, style and originality of ber possessions in the separate waist line. The big shops, and the little ODes, too, for that matter, are not showing 'the new waists as yet, except to a few favored customers. The stockrooms, however, are piled up with pieces of prettiness that will appeal tremendously later on. For one thing, there are some few little points in the construction of the new models that differ from what the summer season saw. Collars are higher, as though to emphasize the fact that the St. Cecilia, or Dutch neck, has been laid away with the summer suns and sunburn and freckles. Sleeves, as already noted, are noticeably long In the Imported models, and there is quite a marked difference in cut. The underarm seam is made to slope towards the front, and there is not nearly so much material at the waistline as the maker put into the summer models. The effect is one that conforms far better to the new figure, wherein the bust line is accentuated, the waist made to seem smaller and rounder than It did In the preceding corset lines. And speaking of the waist brings np the subject of belts. It Is to be noted that all of the best makers are furnishing their patrons with belts to match the blouse. The order has gone forth that a long and slender waist Is to be the thiDg, and the ceinture to match the waist aids In creating this effect. Where the belt matches the skirt a 'fashion that we have followed for quite sometime the figure Is Inevitably foreshortened, no matter how much sloped and pointed or how cleverly the belt may be cut. But with the beJt matching the waist. In color If not in material. Just the opposite result is achieved, and the figure made to look just so much tailed and more slender. In those dainty little blouses that are Intended to express some degree of dressiness In their wear extravagance seems to

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senting the appearance cf a lattice. The blouse and sleeve have the tucks run in groups of three. In a slanting direction, crossing to form a plaid, and a dainty little lace and embroidery medallion posed in the center of each. The cuff to the short elbow sleeve matches the yoke, and the wavy band of real Cluny lace that serves to Join the yoke and blouse is matched in the Cluny edge that trims the aleeve frills and edges the featberboned collar. Loops of this same collarbone are used to support the sleeve at the shoulder seam and prevent the soft net from sagging flatly on the arm. The fastening, as usual, is in the back. Embroidered Bands Are Effective To the skilled needlewoman a few yards of lace entre deux, ditto embroidered bands, and a little coarse lace to sJve a

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1. rfe. mm run riot. Many of the most attractive ones are merely a melange of laces, real where the purse will afford it,, or as goodly imitations, as may be where economy is an object. Not that machine-made laces are always inexpensive, there are some of them that are quite as costly as many real laces. Two, three and even four kinds of lace, if well selected, may enter into the construction of a simple little blouse, and, in addition, nn effective scrap or two of embroidery will not be amiss to accentuate the design. Handwork, wherever possible. Is to be preferred, although there are machines and attachments nowadays that make the work of the embroideries seem 6low and costly by comparison, and oftentimes it Is welT nigh Impossible to tell the one from the other. Transparent, or at the most semitransparent, materials are the preferred ones, ana mere are some charming little slips in delicate colorings to be worn beneath. One can purchase readymade slips in China silk for a mere trifle, but the fastidious will much prefer to hax-e such made from the chiffon double or chiffon cloth, as it is called and just as carefully fitted to the figure as a skilled dressmaker can manage. The more expensive the blouse, the better it clings to the figure. There is absolutely no pufling or sagging at the waist, no pouch" above the belt, in the latest French productions. In many of them the pleats that are necessary to confine the fulness at the waist are made after the manner of darts and the material cut away beneath so that every unnecessary inch of bulk or bunchiness Is done away with. In all manner of waists the yoke is making Itself quite conspicuous. It appears in linen, in lace, in chiffon, in silk, and usually it is of the shallowest in the front and back and so built as to extend well over the sleeve seam on the shoulders, and so aid in the broad-shoulder line that Is so flattering to the seeming slae of one's waist. Waist note of emphasis to the finer kinds. Immediately begins to suggest possibilities in the way of fancy blouses. At any of the places where they teach dress-cutting is it possible to get a pattern of a shirtwaist cut to one's own measurements for a small sum, and this '-'11 serve as a foundation whereon to use all sorts of fanciful developments in the way of elaboration for further blouses. A very sheer nainsook is embroidered in a big daisy pattern, the center of the flower displaying some openwork, and the work all well padded so that it stands out in bold relief. A shallow yoke is formed of alternate strips of Valenciennes and pointe de gene lace, and the embroidery, laid on an allover .Valenciennes, forms the body and sleeves of the blouse. The back is similar in construction to the front, and the sleeve stops short below the bend of the elbow.

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Sauntering in Fashion Land

The real lace mitten will undoubtedly become an Imperative part of the autumn and winter bride's wedding costume. Many of the most noted brides of the summertime followed this old-time fashion, much to the relief of the groom, the clergyman, the maid of honor and all generally concerned. That awkward pause while the bride surrenders her bouquet to the maid of honor and tugs at a glove that Is, nine times out of ten, a size or so too small for her while the officiating clergyman Is waltlDg to put the all-Important ring on her finger, is altogether obviated in he wearing of the lace mitten. With the short sleeve the lace arm covering is In better taste, especially when one can secure a lace to match that of the gown, and the fingers are free to receive the ring without any preliminary fuss or confusion. Many of the summer's brides wore the mittens that their mothers wore at their weddings during the sixties and the early seventies, when real lace mittens, veils and parasol covers were a part of every gentlewoman's trousseau, and those who have had to purchase them recently have had to pay a goodly price for similar ones. The lingerie craze has extended even to linings and dress shields. These latter lndlspensibles are shown in the shops with a frilling of narrow Valenciennes laces all around, the shopwoman sometimes explaining that In pinning the shields into summer waists tiny safety pins caught through the lace avert the possibility of piercing, and thereby ruining the shield itself is avoided. Lingerie linings of the little coats, fashioned from silks of various kinds and enriched with hand embroideries, are of fered. These are usually In a sheer lawn or batiste and are trimmed with lace edgings, pleatings. Insertions and the like. They are supposed to cover the rich brocade which makes the lining for all the new wraps and to be taken out and laundered as often as may be deemed necessary. A tacking stitch at the neck and In the arm sire is all that Is necessary to hold them in place when in wear. Jarre telles are shown with little fanciful coverings of lawn and lace in place of the usual ribbon, and In many instances this covering la slipped on over the ribbon casing that covers the elastic and saves the rich satin ribbon from soil. The little lingerie corset cover that Just covers the corset and no more Is back again, and many of the best corse tie res furnish some four or six of such with each client's corset. A fancy pin or two holds them in place, so that they may be instantly removed for the necessary visit to the laundry. Roman striped ribbons. In gay colorings, are being mnch used for sash, belt and cravat purposes. On some of the first crop of felt hats mostly of the outing patterns a scarf is made to match the cravat and ceintnre, thus bringing the entire outdoor costume into harmony. Various shades of red for the ground color and vivid stripes, in which gold and pale blue are prominent, seem to take best, and it must be confessed that they" make a pretty splotch of color on the tennis ground, the golf links and

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yri- ,' '' r ' " if-j In the brilliantly tinted autumn woods. It Is prophesied that the vogue of thej pale pastel colors for tailor-made wear Is to be renewed for winter wear. Last winter a few of the fashionables sported tailor-mades In pale blue, a faint rose shade and the lightest possible terra cotta, favor being distributed in about the order named. The off-color whites, too, are to be received in good company, and the faintest shades of gray and of lilac and lavender are to remain in standing. With furry accessories those delicately tinted costumes present an air of extravagance and dressiness In winter time, and with the short skirt that is worn for street purposes tbey do not show soil as early in their career as might be expected. The craze for Jewels and Jewelry is on the Increase. In Paris It Is no longer considered In bad taste, or at all reprehensible, to wear Imitation jewels. It must be conceded that the Parisians excel In the manufacture and mounting of those imitations, many of which are calculated ' to deceive any but an expert. It must not be Imagined, however, that such pieces are cheap or cheap looking. The settings are of gold or of pratlnunv arid the mounting is done by skilled jewelers, so that, as far as the labor and skill are concerned, real Jewels do not receive any better treatment. A fancy neckpiece, a long chains of pearls, four or even more rings on either hand and a couple of bracelets is not considered any too great a display at present. And If a fancy brooch or two be added to the corsage the wearer Is still well within the limits of present taste. Beautifully artistic designs are displayed in those "slmill" pieces, as they are termed abroad. A spray for the hair was shown in small cut brilliants Imitation, be It understood. The center was a wild rose, and a spray of maidenhair fera extended for some six inches on either side of this. The setting was of platinum, the brilliants carefully cut and polished, and the mounting in every way above criticism. And for this the sum of 1,000 francs iroughly estimated, $200) was asked. Society leaders and residents of the most fashionable parts of New York must be taking to quite a conrse of reading on household topics, if one is to Judge from

Fine Flannels Again

After quite a period of neglect the shlrtmaker Is taking np those soft and fine flannels once more. Becent Importations show those goods in all of the daintiest tints and patterns Imaginable, and so far from being at all thick and heavy later productions well deserve to be described as chiffon flannels. In many ways they are fully as. light as an all-wool chains is wont to be. The model illustrated Is in a very pale blue flannel, with printing in sapphire tints and a little spray showing a pale pink Cower and green foliage. Deep pleats occupy the shoulder seams, affording sufficient width across the fronts. The underarm seams are deeply curved toward the waistline, and the pleats that adjust the fulness at the belt are cut away beneath, so that there is no undue bulk or clumsiness. The sleeve Is a single seam pattern, full throughout, and

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the displays in the windows of leading book shops. Books upon domestic science, the several departments of housekeeping, culinary hints and wrinkles, furniture, home decorations and the like are persistently displayed; and the latest authorities on all of these and other kindred subjects are Indicated by small placards conspicuously placed. Gardening, too, seems to come in for a share of attention; but there seems to be no room for anything else. If it were but one shop that made such a display, one might pass It without comment; but when some half a dozen, well spaced, all seem actuated by the same idea, it affords food for thought. "Water without and within was the sole prescription of a fashionable physician to a wealthy patient who came to him with a list of physical ills and ailments of ominous length. She could not sleep, she had no appetite, she was nervous and depressed, and so on ad infinitum. As a general thing, women do not appreciate plain water as much as they should do. A sponge off in tepil not cold water when fatigued will prove more refreshing than anything else. A glass of cold water, not too cold, taken the last thing at, night and another the first thing in the morning will overcome many complexion ills. When nervous, a glass of plain water, sipped slowly, will prove calming. By the way. this same physician says that water, when drunk cold and quickly, acts as a depressant on the heart and nerves; when sipped slowly, it acts as a gentle stimulant. A gallon of water dally, taken in halfpint doses. Is said to be absolutely necessary to health in warm countries, and three quarts in the same 'period is the prescription for these latitudes. The stout woman must plan to do her drinking between meals, taking no fluids for half an hour before or an hour after meals; and her skinny sister may follow the same rule, but take even more fluids. In washing the face with soap and water one Is expected to rinse off in not less than four waters, making the last one as cold as possible and dashing it with both hands against the skin, so that a little shock of contact is Induced. This will tend to harden both skin and muscles of the face, prevent, or at least forestall, wrinkles by contracting the tiny pores on the surface and the nerves and muscles underneath. with a shaped cuff that clings closely to the wrist, fastening with three buttons and buttonholes on the underside. The neck is finished with a plain band, so that separate collars of any variety may be worn. The dainty neck dressing pictured in a heavy white linen shows the rabat ends, three of them overlapping, and the lowest one elaborately decorated with needlework. Both collar and ends are scalloped and buttonholed on the edges, and a little soft white ruchlng makes a dainty finish at the throat. A well-known artist's wife Is never seen except In a brown costume, this color matching her auburn hair and brown eyes to perfection. For more years than the scribe can count this attractive woman has clung persistently to brown, vary

Popularity of the Tailored Shirtwaist The popularity of the tailored shirtwaist for morning and outdoor wear la vastly on the incresse, and the stock and belt worn therewith are expected to be of the same plain and severe type. All sorts of wash materials, provided that they be of sufficient body and firmness of weave, are in vogue, and handwork, except In the buttonholes, is not expected. Three or four broad pleats are laid on either side of the front, coming well out on the shoulder, and making for that broad line which is the accepted thing Just now. The fastening is usually effected with buttons and buttonholes posed In the center of a stitched box pleat, and stitched down side pleats serve to adjust the fulness at the waist. Most of the recent designs display a laldon yoke in the back, usually shallow, and with a point la the center. The sleeve follows the regulation ' shirt patterns, except that it Is fuller la the top than were those of last season, and the Stiff cuff Is the Inevitable wrist finish in this type of blouse. Stock and belt are of linen and embroidered to match, a fad that has been extremely fax'ored during the summer, and promises to maintain all of ita hold during the winter season. Flalds Make Popular Trlmmlaars. The tailored shirt maintains all of Ita bold upon current fashions, despite ths overwhelming popularity of the frilly and

Linens of a goodly firmness, madras, cotton aergea and cheviots, and the new. linen drill, are all favored, and a plain, severity Is their distinguishing hall marks Ths waist pictured is from a house .well and favorably known for ita shirts, and displays rather a novel innovation la the use of a .bias strapping sewn flat to the linen between the broad box pleats that occupy the fronts. The back is similarly arranged, but with three. Instead of five pleats, and on the shoulders there la the same little strip of bias plaid Inserted between the pleats. The collar la of too linen drill, with the plaid for trimming, and the smart little Windsor tis la separate affair, though made from the shirt materials. The aleeve la comfort ably fall throughout, the shoulder seam broad, and the wrist finished with a stiff linked cuff. For wear with a walking skirt, this model la one that will be sure of a popular acceptance throughout the season. ' lax Lace Melanaro There are so many niches In even the best-equipped wardrobe that ths laes blouse alone can fill that the reason for lis vogue la not far to seek. The fancy for a combination of two or more laces in the one design still continues, ths genres being pretty well contrasted. Ths laces, however, must be carefully chosen, else the result would be one suggestive of bargain-counter forays and remnant finds. Where at all possible, such little blouses are best fashioned by hand, and faggoting and fancy lace stitches used to join the different strips. In ths picture the yoke is made of a sprigged Valenciennes joined with a Cluny beading, while broad Cluny is alternated with an appenzall for Che body of ths blouse. The short sleeve is of the same matsrial, and bias bands of white satin overbald with a narrow edging serve to give a little touch of character between the strips of lace. A Urge V-shsped set piece la embroidery is posed effectively on the front; and the fastening Is, as usual, in the back. WOMEN CONDUCT0E3 ON CABS. The area of employment for womer. continues to Increase. Sometime ago ths Chiliicothe (O.) Electric Street Hallway Company Installed seven young women as conductors on their cars and the experiment has proved a great success. When the advertisement was Inserted in a local paper over 100 women appUed for p ! seven of whom were carefully seieccsd. The fortunate applicants are all of good family and of personal attractiveness. They receive $4 per week and are on duty nine hours a day and have one day off la every week. They claim that the work is much better than any of the Indoor occupations open to women. in Favor. ing it only for formal occasions, when sh is compelled to modify the rule. Then she adopts an old Ivory shade, but deftly manages to mingle her beloved tint somewhere in the trimming or accessories. Just now she Is glorious to look st la frock of brown tulle, msde with a bewildering succession of flounces from hip to hem. The corsage is low, a froth of tulle defining the decolletage, and ths sleeves merely an ombrelle shape covered with the same frothy flouncings. Brown Iridescent spangles are sparingly osed npon the corsage, although the pointed ceintnre fairly glistens and glitters with them, and the effect of the crisp, auburn hair, worn Madonna-wise, the brown eyes, the clear complexion that goes with this color combination. Is admirable to tv-hold.